RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

hi captains im grting realy close to sea trials my last esc is on it way when i got my graupner 9.6 700 bb turbos the dident come with the RF supression capacitors i dont know witch ones to buy and there is no ins to install them can anyone tell me what to use and where i can find the ins to install them

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

Deep,

You're going to get different ideas on what size but

Oops

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

<span style="font-size: larger;">Deep,

You're going to get different ideas on what size capacitors to use but check out the attachment (I hope).

Bob
</span>

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

now that i think about it 4nuf is what i remember seeing on the graupner instructions but they were wanting you to soder them to pos and - and then to the case ill have to do more reserch i f bolth ways will work i can look at your pix as refrance

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

I can't wait for your sea trials..It will be nice to see another classic hit the water...

-Rich.
<br type="_moz" />

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

thanks ill take lots of pix im down to just a few things install <font size="2">capacitors 1 esc ant grease shafts install props and build a batt box the esc is in the mail it wont be long:)</font>

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

<font size="3">Deep,

I checked my file copy of the operating instructions for the 700 BB and they say to use 47nF capacitors (or .047uF, same thing), 50V rating. It says two caps but three is better.

Bob</font><br type="_moz"/>

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

Very cool!! All the freshwater ponds near me are now frozen so my season ended unless I sail in salt water.

-Rich.
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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

thanks that pix of the instalation helps alot now that i have the right number i should be ok just wondering that pix shows the caps at the top of the motor and it looks like they are touching the case is that right or am i seeing iit wrong

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

<font size="3">Deep,

That's correct. You solder one end of a cap. to the pos.motor </font><font size="3"><font size="3">terminal</font> and the other to the motor case; same with the neg.</font><font size="3"><font size="3">terminal</font> lead. Make sure you sand the motor case at the point where you are planning to solder the cap leads. Then solder a cap. between the pos. and neg. motor terminals.</font><font size="3"> I know it doesn't sound right but it works great, especially if you don't have a 2.4 GHz radio system. <font size="3">Even then it's cheap insurance.</font>

Bob</font>

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

Rich and I had a grand old time today with Google Earth and were able to get Big D's grounding spots co-odinateson Sugar Bay within feet. He will be able to visit the EXACT spot when he makes his visit to St Croix.
We did that while on the phone and then met for lunch later. I think you can guess what most of the conversation was about. :) :)

Bill

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

hi caps just a quick update i greased my shafts if there was any place that wasent to get greased it did the hull my hair so youcan say all got greasedhttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...ey/msn/lol.gifo well re installed rudders tomarow i work on the battery box .

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

Hi Bill,

It was a good time as always chatting and meeting up with you. On my last viisit to St. Croix I visited that spot via GPS and took a few rock samples from the site. This time around I plan on trudging in the water and really stand where the Dauntless sat. I am also planning on taking my life raft and lifeboat from my Dauntless model with me to do a photo shoot on the water with them. This will be with my GPS in hand to mark the exact coordinates that Bill &amp; I agreed to today. If the spot is too muddy or treacherous I will rent a kayak at the marina and paddle over to the spot.

the last time I was there I rented a kayak for a night mission &amp; it was a blast so I know where to get one..

In addition, we found and marked the spot where Dauntless was taken once she was floated and brought over to the marina. I will take a few pictures at that spot too.

-Rich.

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

Hi captains,

So tonight I press on with the Dauntless. I got some instruction about my sound module so I am going to try to get that up and running..then off to a few other things...

I am going to try to get the boat ready for a run in Tarrytown in the next week. If I can get her running I am going to try to make arrangements at the Tarrytown boat club to see if they will allow me sail and photogragh her in a photoshoot frm the docks. This is so that not only will I have her documented on the Hudson River at the very yachtclub where Dauntless once belonged but also to get detailed pictures of the Tappanzee bridge in the background. That bridge was being built when Dauntless was already in service and soon the city is planning on destroying it for a new bridge. I think it would be amazing to have my Dauntless photographed there. It will add more history to the model.

-Rich.

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

Hi caps,

Last night I worked solely on the module and I wasn't able to get it to work...I was very upset going to bed at 2am and this thing wasn't resolved. This morning I went over the instructions from the old module to the new one and found that the wiring diagram changed. So in order for me to install it I would have to install switches in the line in order for it to work. At this point I am fed up with it so I removed it from the boat and am going forward with other items.

I wired the boat back up without the module and got the boat to run again.

I am now finishing up the loose ends on the waterpumps and fan wiring. I just tested it using my transmitter and they work just as I explained earlier. If I switch the slider in the up position all three engineroom fans turn on and they are very quiet. Once I slid it to the middle they turn off and when I push the slider all the way down all four waterpumps engage. I am very happy with this arrangement.

So now I just have to permanently run the ground wire and it's golden. Next, I will take a hacksaw and cut down the long fan exhausts on the fan exhaust unit and take some basswood supports and epoxy them from the unit to the side of the servo box. Then the plumbing job I mentioned earlier will begin.

From here I will try to finish up some loose ends with the way the cabin fits and the boat should be in good working order for a run soon.

Then it will be off to tinkering with the lifeboat &amp; raft and get them ready for St. Croix.

More to come.

-Rich.

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

double post? I will edit and throw something here later..

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

Hi captains,<p class="MsoNormal">I ended up working on the boat all day and night. I finally stopped working on her at 1 am. After I glued the air exhaust cube in place I continued onto other items. I removed all the water tubes aft and am getting ready to purchase new tubes in the correct size. The size changed once I bought the water pumps. The nipples on the pumps were too small for the tubes I had in place so smaller ones will be added to ensure a proper fit.</p><p class="MsoNormal">Once I removed the tubes all the way aft I filled in a pair of water pickups with epoxy and on the bottom of the boat filled and skimmed over the that pair with epoxy. Now it&rsquo;s as if they were never there. The pair that I chose to eliminate were the ones just above the props. The removal of the pair of water intakes eliminated four water inlet tubes so now there are four left, one for each pump.</p><p class="MsoNormal">After that I moved on to adjust some of the contact springs so that the superstructure fits better.</p><p class="MsoNormal">Later on I decided to scratch build and install the ducts for the engine room intake fans. I made those from basswood frames and a balsa bottom plate and they were coated in epoxy and later sanded smooth. Once they were installed they were painted red which is turning out to be a great contrast from the gull grey interior.</p><p class="MsoNormal">After those were installed and painted I decided to get a jump on the sump pit. This is part of the rectangle box assembly that is around the stuffing tubes, shafts and couplers. Coming from the rectangle boxes will be water tubes that feed into the sump pit so that any water that leaks from the stuffing tubes will drain from the rectangle boxes and into the sump pit where it will be bailed from the boat. The sump pit will be located between the aluminum receiver box and the servo/switch box along the keel. It is important for me to finish this before the next time she sees water because I had a few minor floods in the engine room because of the stuffing tubes letting in water. This should stop that from happening.</p><p class="MsoNormal">The sump pit was built around a Robbe automatic bilgepump. It was made from balsa to save weight and was heavily coated in epoxy, cured, sanded and recoated. Tonight I will sand it, give it a final coat of epoxy and afterwards paint it red and get it ready for installation. At this point, many scratch made components in the engine room will be painted red. It really makes those items pop when you look inside.</p><p class="MsoNormal">The final item that needs to be finished inside the engine room in the short term is the exhaust ducts and the tubing between the fan cube and exhaust ducts need to be connected. Then, the engine room door will go in place which will be sealed shut so that water can&rsquo;t pour inside and overtake the room.</p><p class="MsoNormal">In between working on the sump pit I also made adjustments to the rectangle boxes and painted them red. I still have to make the lids for those boxes so that when water splashes out of the stuffing tube at thousands of rpms it is contained inside the box. One final note with that, when the lid is removed from the rectangle box there will be an aluminum splash guard in there. It will be made from a thin aluminum soda can and it will be half round lining the inside of the box to further keep the water contained so that it drains and doesn&rsquo;t leak out. The lining will simply lift out once the top is removed.</p><p class="MsoNormal">I have been putting a lot of thought into how I&rsquo;m going to tackle mounting the superstructure. The superstructure when pushed against the hull is a snug fit but when I let go it still seems to &lsquo;do its own thing&rsquo; and come up slightly in some areas. So mounting it so that it is tightly flush with the deck has become pretty important. It will not only make the boat appear better overall but will keep any water potential water out of the boat. I found that I have 3 places to secure on each side. I have to secure the front, mid, and aft in order for this to be perfect. I am still up in the air on how to do this.</p><p class="MsoNormal">For the front, I need to build the interior wall and I can possibly latch the front of the cabins to the wall in the cockpit.</p><p class="MsoNormal">For the mid section, this would have to be done in the engine room. I am still unsure which way to go with this because there are so many possibilities.</p><p class="MsoNormal">For the aft section, again there are many options but I am leaning toward making the seats/boarding step on the aft side of the cockpit removable with tiny earth magnets (I already have them) and use the interior space as a means to secure the structure. I could drill a hole put a thick pin though the wall which fastens to wood on the hull side or cut out a section of the wall and feed a Velcro strap though it to fasten it to the hull. I&rsquo;m sure you all have ideas too.</p><p class="MsoNormal">What do you think? How would you secure the superstructure (cabins) to the hull? I would like to hear your ideas.

Pics will follow tomorrow.</p><p class="MsoNormal">-Rich.</p>

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

Hi captains,

Here are a pair of old Astroflight 25's. These were used in an airplane but they still might be good for a boat. The Astro 25's are brutally strong motors. Also, I have been seeing old astro 25 Cobalt motors and sometimes they are geared. The gear assembly can be removed so that they can be run direct. Just some food for thought.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Astro-Astrof...item416fc85b05

Pull the gear drive off this and you have a nice motor. I see these pretty frequently on -ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Astro-Flight...item1c2f0d2a8e

-Rich.

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

Hi captains,

Today I went to my local hobby shop to pick up some supplies when I had a conversation with the main technichian that works there. We were talking about the Dauntless &amp; I went over a few ideas with him such as installing toggle switches to get the LIPOS to turn on/off. I was interested in doing it myself..

During the conversation we hatched a plan that I decided to have him do for me.

So basically here is what will be done:

Aft in the cockpit area where the light switches are will be (3) 12V 30 AMP rocker switches in a medium sized radioshack type project box. On the side of the box will be 3 pairs of female banana plugs which the LIPOS will plug into. From here I will be able to power up the port motor/ stbd motor and one for the pwr dst panel. This will also allow me to just turn on the pwr dst panel when I want to just show off the lights.

Here is where it gets cool.. Either the LIPO wires or the charger wires will be extended so that I can balance charge the LIPOS in the boat rather than remove the superstructure and the batteries. All I have to do is leave the LIPOS in and unplug them from the switch and into the charger. The hobby shop tech is going to iron out all the details so that it is professionally done.

Once the switch panel is installed I will modify the floor as needed to have ample access below deck.

This will work out great for me because the only time I will ever need to remove the cabins will be to work on the boat. One day when the boat is completely finished (assuming that day will ever come) the superstructure will stay in place and I will only need to remove the access panels to get inside.

This is going to be cool!

-Rich.

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

<font size="3">Captains,

My coupling insert arrived today so maybe I will be able to get the motor mounts set and epoxied into place.

While using my little battery box test unit, roughly 5V with 3 fresh batteries, I noticed that the starboard motor was running very rough, smooth then rough. At first I thought it was just my adjustments of the motor mount but while holding the mount steady with my hand it continued doing the same smooth running then going rough for no apparent reason.

When I examined the wiring soldered to the motor I noticed it was far from a "clean and solid" solder joint (sorry, no pics) so I've <font size="3">un</font>soldered both leads, trimmed the wire back, etc., etc.. I'm even replacing the caps. If this doesn't solve the problem I may replace the motors with a couple of Mabuchi RS 775 BB's I have available. They're fairly comparable and luckily have the same size shaft so I won't need to order new inserts.

Another fortunate circumstance is the port motor mount is only 'tacked' into place so if I must remove it I can do so with minimal damage.</font>


<font size="3">Deep,

How are things coming with your boat? Getting anxious to see photos of your boat ready for sea trials.

</font>
<font size="3">Rich,

Sorry you are having so much trouble with your sound board; makes me not want to bother with using the one I have. I don't have any instructions to guide me any way so
it would be hit or miss all the way.

Bob</font>

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

hi caps my last esc came todayhttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...unge_smile.gifwill be installing tonight bob what kind of motors do you have i just jot a spare 9.6 graupner 700bb turbo let me know if you can use it

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

It is really easy to fry them so be sure to get instructions before you start. Even with instructions my board is very complicated.

-Rich.
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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

<font size="3">Deep,

The motors in this boat "<font color="#0000FF">come from a electric drill, or cordless screwdriver. They turn 21000, at 18 volts...</font>" as quoted from the boat builders build log (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...ild&amp;page=7 Report 98), so I don't know where they came from for sure.</font>  <font size="3">Thanks for the offer on the 700 but <font size="3">I</font> wouldn't want to miss<font size="3"> </font>match the motors and I do have the 775's and may as well use them, <u>if</u> necessary.

Rich,

I'll try to get the instructions befor messing around with the sound board.  Before I took it out I powered it up and noted that as soon as battery power was applied the soun<font size="3">d of the motor came on so I don;t think it was properly installed to begin with; but I could be wrong.  It also had a horn but that wasn't hooked p to a servo over ride or anything but it did work when I depressed the slide switch.</font>

Bob</font><br type="_moz"/>

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

i also have a 12 volt johnson motor came from a dewalt cordless drill 386366-00 looks like a 1/8 shaft you can have it if you can use it it looks the same size as the 700s

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
 

Wow lots of action lately, cool!

Rich - Is your cabin unit(s) all one piece, or split up into sections like Dumas plans call for? I can't remember...

I have nothing to report. Wife asked me to wait for the 2012 tax return to buy new speed controls. At least I won't have to sell toys to come up with the cash-ola!