gulfstreamI

How's your skill level at dismantling r/c stuff?
You have to get at the circuit board located within the sub. I've had this problem before with the newer Nikko Seawolf (black) . It took the sub apart to make adjustments to the trim pots. There are three (3) of these located on the circuit board. One is for the Dive motor , another for the steering (left & right) and the last for forward & reverse of the propusion motor.
You have to use a fine flat screwdriver. A plastic or one with a insulated handle is preferable. You have to fine tune or syncronize the sensitivity/response for the proper proprtional output to the three motors these trim pots control.

Tungi

Hi there! It's great to see those painted seawolf. Well, my seastar has been in the box for almost two years, because it had a several leakage. I opened it yesterday, and found the cracks at the first top screw(from front) I used silicone to seal it, and now it's working fine.

What kind of paint do you use? I'm not sure of painting it all black or red & black.

bigjoe69

hi...just got hold of a 1980s nikko ocean sub ,but the seals have gone and does anyone know how 2 get these parts??....thnks

500 lb. koolaid man

Sorry, I just answered my own question.

jjp735i

I need to know if the 4 screws that hold the black peice in for the dive prop will let water into the electronics. I just got my sub back from nikko and they fixed it, I use this term loosely, they just needed to give me the right TX since they sent me the wrong one in the first place and said I needed to send the whole sub in to get it fixed. It looks as if they torn the sub down and put it back together. I found small cracks around the 4 screws on the bottom of the sub that hold part of the dive assembly and only one of the screws gets tight. They put some kind of sealant all around them, I think to get them to hold. I'm going to call them Monday and insist they replace the bottom Hull, which is mostly the whole sub.

Thanks, jjp

jjp735i

Well after looking over the sub Nikko returned to me, I've come to the conclusion it's not even my sub. Can't wait to call them today. [>:]

gulfstreamI

That's the dive motor propulsion seal. If the screw mounts in that area is compromised, no amount of sealant will keep the water out when you take that sub down for a dive. You can't glue that area as you will have to occasionally service the two electric motors for re-oiling. Use the associated motor bearing lube available at your L.H.S.
I'd say your sub's hull has to be replaced. I have a Nikko Ocean Explorer with a damaged hull. It's no longer capable of making dives due to damage similar to what you described. It's currently a surface vessel (just like an ordinary boat).

jjp735i

Thanks gulfstreamI,

Nikko has agreed to replace the bottom hull due to they are the ones that gave me a different hull when mine was in perfect shape. Waiting on a label from them to ship it back. Hopefully they will fix it right this time.

Thanks, jjp

Polish Navy

The submerge motor on my Sea Wolf won't stop running so I am guessing that it is a adjustment problem on the circuit board. Can someone explain how to get to it?

Polish Navy

Does anyone know how to access the circuit board in the Nikko Sea Wolf?

gulfstreamI

The Nikko Seawolf = Nikko Ocean Explorer. Same sub, different production date, different color. Only change in the Seawolf is the updated electronics on the receiver board.
Pls refer to page 1 of this thread. Disassembly is a pretty straightforward task. Just refer to the pics.

gulfstreamI

You can try adjusting the "trim pot" at the transmitter circuit board. There's only one (1) there and you won't miss it. Over time these need to be tuned as the sensitvity of the three (3) electric motors ... dive, steering & propulsion motors start to wear down.

Waterbomber

Just thought you might like to see my Seawolf with a few mods.

The neatest thing about this sub is the carrying case I adapted so it could travel on airlines and be safe. This has done a lot of miles and survived without a scratch on my quickly done paint job.

My main complaint with the Nikko subs has always been poor radio range right out of the box. After talking with a nice tech at Nikko, he says what I get is about all they are capable of ... about 50 to 60 ft on the surface and much less in a pool. I'm not able to get more than a few feet away in the heavily clorinated public pool where I went on vacation. I'll be selling this one and finishing my static diver.

The only other thing that was a problem last year was a broken main drive shaft magnetic coupling cup. I made the mistake of letting somebody else run it and he enjoyed doing panic stops a little too much and cracked the cup. Nikko were very good about supplying spare parts and I've now also got a spare prop on the shelf just in case.

Although this "pool toy" has been fun and taught me a lot, I've decided to go with a conventional radio system and a different sub for next sub season.

Lee

Polish Navy

Where I have the problem is the straight forward disassembly. The pictures give me a good idea of what I'll see once I get in there but its the getting in that has me puzzled and I'm don't want to do anything that will cause a leak by trying to force it.

mikec456

My Feedback: (1)

Anyone know what to do when the motor runs full speed in forward with the trim set in the middle? After carefully disassembling the sub I found a little water inside (should have sealed sub before using-my error) the radio area, at first nothing worked but after drying everything out last night all works except for the motor for the prop which does not turn off and runs full speed except if you put it in full reverse it will stop.

Deathwish

My Feedback: (6)

I just got one off ebay for 16.00 buck's. Am planning to modify it a little and installing a camera. I will post pic's soon as i can.

monkeywithawrench27

hey i have a nikko sea star. i just got it used about a week ago. the steering servo works, but the submerge and propulsion motors are not working. i took the sub and transmitter apart and both look like new. no corrosion. i even supplied current directly to the motors, and nothing happened. neither motor is froze up. on the submerge motor i actually even put current directly to the brushes. i cant figure out the problem. do you have any ideas?

thanks

Deathwish

My Feedback: (6)

So you are saying the motor's did work didn't work?

monkeywithawrench27

i actually found the problem. i am kinda a bit surprised about what the problem was because i checked it multiple times with a volt ohm meter. it was one of the jumper wires i was using. it had a gap in the wire somewhere. when i checked it with a volt meter because that is usually one of the first things i check, it was working fine. i actually figured it out when i was using it for a set of lights that i knew worked, so then i tested it again, and that was the problem. so i got a different wire and tested the sub and it worked fine. at least now i know how to work on it and got a chance to check for cracks and leaks. thanks anyways.
also i knew the motors were good. there was no corrosion, no rust, the motor didnt smell like burnt enameling, and the wired inside the motor were not burnt. bearings were fine. it was like the entire sub was brand new.

Dick Dick

Is there anything I can use to protect from corrosion ?
WD-40 doesnt work that well and my electrical terminals are getting corroded
Thank You gentlemen

monkeywithawrench27

you could try wax. that is what is covering the board. nikko uses wax. just pour like candle wax over it. you could also try vasoline, vinegar i know will remove corrosion. i use vinegar to remove corrosion off of all kind of things. what is getting corroded? that is one of the first things i need to know so i can help. wax is an insulator so it would prevent it from corroding. vinegar will remove corrosion. you wouldnt really want to use wax for obvious reasons on a battery terminal.

Deathwish

My Feedback: (6)

am still looking for a rear prop. If anyone has one laying around. Also needed the weight's.

monkeywithawrench27

i dont know if i can help you with the prop, but for the weights you can jusy use something you have laying around like fishing weights, smaller nuts and bolds, you could cut up a tire weight from a car, etc. what ever you can think of. with the prop, you could try to find something that you could make work or look on ebay, although i am assuming that you are looking for a substitute. if i find anything you could use as a substitute, il let you know. you could try making one. you could always go ask someone at a hobby shop it they have ideas.

Dick Dick

mostly motor teminals and reciver broad.
I thank you kind sir.

Waterbomber

I bought a replacement prop and a few other items a couple of years ago from Nikko America. I don't recall exact numbers, but thought the prices were quite reasonable.

Regarding using vinegar to clean up contacts, yes it makes things bright & shiny, but is an acid and actually causes more corrosion.

Best of luck with getting your sub operational.