Building the U-52
01-14-2006, 05:33 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Building the U-52
Hi guys,
This is my scratchbuilt U-boat project that I have been working on and off at, the hull was stared roughly over a year ago and since then I was busying working on this sub on my spare time. This is a model of a WWII German Type VIIb U-boat, the particuliar being the U-52. The hull is built along a scale of 1/52, the reason for this was I wanted to build a boat that was not as big as the Robbe U-47 (which measures over 1.70m) and not on the "small" scale of a boat like the Revell VIIc (others might think differently however!
), so the best choice was to stick with a scale that's in between the two. But interestingly, when I resized and printed the plans that I had found on the internet, I measured the scale to be 1/52, the same number as my boat! So I decided to stick with that scale.
Here are some quick specs of the boat:
Length: 1.27m (roughly 4' 3")
Width: 14.5cm (~6")
Propulsion: Single electric motor driving two 3-bladed counter-rotating props via a gearbox.
Power source: 7.2 1800amh battery pack.
Diving method: Static diving via a scrathbuilt pump-operated ballast system.
Radio: More to come.
As you can see, I chose to use a single eletric motor versus the conventional two for a U-boat like this. I choose to do this because one electric motor will have a less current draw than two, so it'll allow me a longer runtime. I plan on doing my best with this boat, some features planned for it are:
-Dual working electric torpedoes
-Fully functional periscope mechanism
-Possibility of installing a hydrophone.
And last but not least, some pictures!!!
This is my scratchbuilt U-boat project that I have been working on and off at, the hull was stared roughly over a year ago and since then I was busying working on this sub on my spare time. This is a model of a WWII German Type VIIb U-boat, the particuliar being the U-52. The hull is built along a scale of 1/52, the reason for this was I wanted to build a boat that was not as big as the Robbe U-47 (which measures over 1.70m) and not on the "small" scale of a boat like the Revell VIIc (others might think differently however!
), so the best choice was to stick with a scale that's in between the two. But interestingly, when I resized and printed the plans that I had found on the internet, I measured the scale to be 1/52, the same number as my boat! So I decided to stick with that scale.Here are some quick specs of the boat:
Length: 1.27m (roughly 4' 3")
Width: 14.5cm (~6")
Propulsion: Single electric motor driving two 3-bladed counter-rotating props via a gearbox.
Power source: 7.2 1800amh battery pack.
Diving method: Static diving via a scrathbuilt pump-operated ballast system.
Radio: More to come.
As you can see, I chose to use a single eletric motor versus the conventional two for a U-boat like this. I choose to do this because one electric motor will have a less current draw than two, so it'll allow me a longer runtime. I plan on doing my best with this boat, some features planned for it are:
-Dual working electric torpedoes
-Fully functional periscope mechanism
-Possibility of installing a hydrophone.
And last but not least, some pictures!!!
01-15-2006, 10:50 AM
#4
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
Thanks guys,
Steve, you can be sure that I will![sm=thumbup.gif]
I was trying to see how long it will take to upload 320x240 pics, I'll have lots of pics to post. I will post VGA size pics from now on.
Steve, you can be sure that I will!
[sm=thumbup.gif]I was trying to see how long it will take to upload 320x240 pics, I'll have lots of pics to post. I will post VGA size pics from now on.
01-15-2006, 02:41 PM
#5
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
Conning Tower/The Bridge:
This morning I decided to proceed making the bridge and detailing what's necessary. The first picture shows the two pieces cut for the bridge, the white one is a foam template used to cut out the grey plasticard used for the bridge floor. Next, using a conning-tower overview from plans that I got from a French gentleman who scratchbuilt a U-47 model (Merci Jean-Michel!!!), I proceeded to cut the hole in which the main periscope base will be glued onto. Since the plasticard was thin to work with, I simply used a hole puncher to cut it out (actually, this wasn't as easy as I thought it would be...). Next, the rought edges were simply burned, sanded and then filed smooth.
For the main periscope base, I simply used a hollow piece of the head of a microphone. This seemed to fit well with the the hole that was cut. The persicope itself is will be the metal tube from a pen (using the pen tube torpedo principle here!). Unlike the forward periscope, which will be coupled to a persicope mechanism to raise and lower it, this one will likely be shorter and will not move.
Next was the hatch. For the hatch cover, I didn't use resin to mold it, I used glue. The idea is simple, instead of using resin to cast small parts, I simply created a hatch cover shape pressed into a piece of plasticine using a marble (making sure that the diameter would be precise). Next, I heated up my glue gun, squeezed the trigger and unleased the hot glue into the mold. Because the glue used for the gun is came from the plastic glue stick that was melted, the hardened glue form a smooth, durable hatch cover! You can see the finished result in the last picture, I should have made a tunnel in the plasticine to allow the air to escape when the glue was poured in, this resulted in small air bubbles in the piece (D'Oh!). However, I figured that once the piece will be painted, the air bubbles wouldn't be visible so I'm safe!
Anyways, here are the pictures so far:
P.S: The small spring in the last picture will be part of the hinge that will be glued onto the hatch cover.
This morning I decided to proceed making the bridge and detailing what's necessary. The first picture shows the two pieces cut for the bridge, the white one is a foam template used to cut out the grey plasticard used for the bridge floor. Next, using a conning-tower overview from plans that I got from a French gentleman who scratchbuilt a U-47 model (Merci Jean-Michel!!!
), I proceeded to cut the hole in which the main periscope base will be glued onto. Since the plasticard was thin to work with, I simply used a hole puncher to cut it out (actually, this wasn't as easy as I thought it would be...). Next, the rought edges were simply burned, sanded and then filed smooth. For the main periscope base, I simply used a hollow piece of the head of a microphone. This seemed to fit well with the the hole that was cut. The persicope itself is will be the metal tube from a pen (using the pen tube torpedo principle here!
). Unlike the forward periscope, which will be coupled to a persicope mechanism to raise and lower it, this one will likely be shorter and will not move. Next was the hatch. For the hatch cover, I didn't use resin to mold it, I used glue. The idea is simple, instead of using resin to cast small parts, I simply created a hatch cover shape pressed into a piece of plasticine using a marble (making sure that the diameter would be precise). Next, I heated up my glue gun, squeezed the trigger and unleased the hot glue into the mold. Because the glue used for the gun is came from the plastic glue stick that was melted, the hardened glue form a smooth, durable hatch cover! You can see the finished result in the last picture, I should have made a tunnel in the plasticine to allow the air to escape when the glue was poured in, this resulted in small air bubbles in the piece (D'Oh!). However, I figured that once the piece will be painted, the air bubbles wouldn't be visible so I'm safe!
Anyways, here are the pictures so far:
P.S: The small spring in the last picture will be part of the hinge that will be glued onto the hatch cover.
01-16-2006, 04:59 PM
#6
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
The hatch is done!!!
Alright!!! I woke up this morning and decided to work on the hatch further, I made a circle base using plasticard so that the hatch diameter would be increased according to the plans. Cutting and gluing on the styrene handles was a real pain, I actually ended up losing some of the pieces two or three times on my workbench!! The parts were assembled using the CA glue but when it came to assemble the handles, I noticed that the hatch itself was actually unbalanced. I thought I could fix the problem by cutting out another bigger circle from plastic using a penny as a template but I noticed that the penny was a perfect fit for the base of the hatch! So finally, once assembled, the hatch itself actually sat a bit higher than it was supposed to be but the overall looks of the tiny spring, the handles, and the penny really adds to the overall scale effects.
Alright!!! I woke up this morning and decided to work on the hatch further, I made a circle base using plasticard so that the hatch diameter would be increased according to the plans. Cutting and gluing on the styrene handles was a real pain, I actually ended up losing some of the pieces two or three times on my workbench!! The parts were assembled using the CA glue but when it came to assemble the handles, I noticed that the hatch itself was actually unbalanced. I thought I could fix the problem by cutting out another bigger circle from plastic using a penny as a template but I noticed that the penny was a perfect fit for the base of the hatch! So finally, once assembled, the hatch itself actually sat a bit higher than it was supposed to be but the overall looks of the tiny spring, the handles, and the penny really adds to the overall scale effects.
01-20-2006, 04:17 PM
#7
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
Well, after two days of a halt, I've picked up work on the U-boat yesterday. Still working on the bridge, my goal is to get the periscope bases and basic details of the conning tower done. Next is to get the flood holes drilled out (uck![&:]) and finishing up the hull.
More pictures tonight.
More pictures tonight.
01-21-2006, 08:41 AM
#8
Join Date: Apr 2004
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RE: Building the U-52
Hey Nemo -
Very cool build.
Please give lots of detail and pictures on how you are scratch building the conning tower.
Have have an old Krick submarine kit - the wood kit - that is missing the conning tower. So, when I get around to the Krick sub, I'll be scratch building a conning tower also. Seeing you build one from scratch will be a huge help to me! I've got the plans that came with the kit, but the vacuum-formed conning tower halves are missing.
- Jim
Very cool build.
Please give lots of detail and pictures on how you are scratch building the conning tower.
Have have an old Krick submarine kit - the wood kit - that is missing the conning tower. So, when I get around to the Krick sub, I'll be scratch building a conning tower also. Seeing you build one from scratch will be a huge help to me! I've got the plans that came with the kit, but the vacuum-formed conning tower halves are missing.
- Jim
01-21-2006, 12:10 PM
#9
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
Hi Jim, glad you like it!
If I'm not wrong, I think the wood Krick kit is the model of the U-25 (Type IA) is it not? From what I see, the conning tower looks like that of a Type VII U-boat, except for the absence of the middle wavebreaker. I have some plans of the conning tower and the bridge plan if you would like to have them, send me a PM if you are interested.
If I'm not wrong, I think the wood Krick kit is the model of the U-25 (Type IA) is it not? From what I see, the conning tower looks like that of a Type VII U-boat, except for the absence of the middle wavebreaker. I have some plans of the conning tower and the bridge plan if you would like to have them, send me a PM if you are interested.
01-21-2006, 07:23 PM
#10
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
Further detailing of the bridge:
Hey guys, sorry for not posting the pictures earlier. Anyways, I've done some more detailling on the bridge. Today, I've decided to make the binocular observation post, everything was pretty easy. I made the binocular base the same way I made the hatch cover, by casting it with a glue gun. The second picture shows the piece all painted and I also added some handle bars made from thin metal wires CA'ed to the main pieces. Interestingly, the object that I used to create the mould for the binocluar base was a cap to a Schraeder valve, once painted, you can barely tell the difference!
I love detailing stuff, I've built and detailed model tanks before, but detailing a 4-foot U-boat is just crazy!!!
Hey guys, sorry for not posting the pictures earlier. Anyways, I've done some more detailling on the bridge. Today, I've decided to make the binocular observation post, everything was pretty easy. I made the binocular base the same way I made the hatch cover, by casting it with a glue gun. The second picture shows the piece all painted and I also added some handle bars made from thin metal wires CA'ed to the main pieces. Interestingly, the object that I used to create the mould for the binocluar base was a cap to a Schraeder valve, once painted, you can barely tell the difference!
I love detailing stuff, I've built and detailed model tanks before, but detailing a 4-foot U-boat is just crazy!!!
02-25-2006, 12:16 PM
#11
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
Hi guys,
Well, after some time off on the project, it's about time I added a little update to this thread! Currently, I'm doing some further sanding to the boat's saddle tanks (the big bulges on the side of the sub) to give it that smooth look. Moreover, I plan on gluing thin sheets of plasticard to the surface of the hull. This will create that metal-plating effect they have on the real U-boats, once painted, it'll look more like the real thing.
Well, after some time off on the project, it's about time I added a little update to this thread!
Currently, I'm doing some further sanding to the boat's saddle tanks (the big bulges on the side of the sub) to give it that smooth look. Moreover, I plan on gluing thin sheets of plasticard to the surface of the hull. This will create that metal-plating effect they have on the real U-boats, once painted, it'll look more like the real thing.
03-11-2006, 05:36 PM
#12
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
Motors/ Propulsion Unit
Well after much thought I've decided to install two motors inside the u-boat instead of one. This is because after some testing I've done with the battery pack, the voltage is smply not enough to produce the torque needed to drive a boat this big. I was planning to use a gearbox to increase power but this would require a more complex gear setting. Using two motor would be much simpler, using a gear reduction unit for each motor. Plus, two motors would give the advantage of a safe return to shore, if one prop gets stuck in weed or garbage, I'll still have the other motor to bring the boat back home! (If both props get stuck, then I'm screwed!)
I also attached some pictures of the ancient propulsion unit, along with the foam trays I used to secure the electronics in the WTC. I used a gear train from a cheap toy car, the setup was really rough. Using this old gearbox, the single motor could only turn both props in the same direction, which was not the case in the real U-boats as they had counter-rotating props. The last picture shows the new, much smaller motors I bought.
Well after much thought I've decided to install two motors inside the u-boat instead of one. This is because after some testing I've done with the battery pack, the voltage is smply not enough to produce the torque needed to drive a boat this big. I was planning to use a gearbox to increase power but this would require a more complex gear setting. Using two motor would be much simpler, using a gear reduction unit for each motor. Plus, two motors would give the advantage of a safe return to shore, if one prop gets stuck in weed or garbage, I'll still have the other motor to bring the boat back home! (If both props get stuck, then I'm screwed!
) I also attached some pictures of the ancient propulsion unit, along with the foam trays I used to secure the electronics in the WTC. I used a gear train from a cheap toy car, the setup was really rough. Using this old gearbox, the single motor could only turn both props in the same direction, which was not the case in the real U-boats as they had counter-rotating props. The last picture shows the new, much smaller motors I bought.
06-23-2006, 06:32 PM
#13
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
Rear Component Tray
I've been working on the sub for a few weeks so I thought I'd find this thread and update it. The new rear styrene component tray has been cut and sanded, the motor mounts have also been built, holes were cut, bolts were screwed on, and so on...
I've also decided to wire the motors in parallel. I think you would get a lot more runtime by wiring them in series but when I tested the setup in parallel and with the battery, I got a lot more power and a runtime of over an hour. Below are pictures of the motors and the component tray, you can also see how horrible my soldering is!
I've been working on the sub for a few weeks so I thought I'd find this thread and update it. The new rear styrene component tray has been cut and sanded, the motor mounts have also been built, holes were cut, bolts were screwed on, and so on...
I've also decided to wire the motors in parallel. I think you would get a lot more runtime by wiring them in series but when I tested the setup in parallel and with the battery, I got a lot more power and a runtime of over an hour. Below are pictures of the motors and the component tray, you can also see how horrible my soldering is!
06-28-2006, 01:40 PM
#14
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
Rear Component Tray Cont'd
Finally, I've managed to get this done!!! With the space available, I think I'm gonna opt with micro-servos or external waterproofed ones. Anyways, here are the pictures, the battery will be placed below the tray.
Finally, I've managed to get this done!!! With the space available, I think I'm gonna opt with micro-servos or external waterproofed ones. Anyways, here are the pictures, the battery will be placed below the tray.
06-28-2006, 08:02 PM
#15
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RE: Building the U-52
Thanks for the new pictures. I'm enjoying the scratch build. I would be interested in seeing your method for water-proofing servos. I used tool-dip with "rubber" over the servo top. I'm going to use a servo mounted in the wet area for the bow planes on my Bluefish, but have not yet tried it out.
Any more pictures of your conning tower?
Any more pictures of your conning tower?
06-29-2006, 06:05 PM
#16
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RE: Building the U-52
I wouldnt run a resistor like that in a sealed submaine. Without cooling you'll probably melt it and the warmed up air will expand and may cause leaks.
06-30-2006, 11:50 AM
#17
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
Hi guys,
Jim, I've heard about the tool-dip method of waterproofing servos, I haven't though seriously about the method I will use, we'll see when that time comes. If possible, I will have more pics of the conning tower posted this weekend.
Taxidriver, the MSC is only temporary, I plan on purchasing an ESC when I get buy the radio. Oddly enough, the resistor did not heat up much when I ran it on low power during the battery test. Worse case scenario, I'll add cooling tubes around it...
Jim, I've heard about the tool-dip method of waterproofing servos, I haven't though seriously about the method I will use, we'll see when that time comes. If possible, I will have more pics of the conning tower posted this weekend.
Taxidriver, the MSC is only temporary, I plan on purchasing an ESC when I get buy the radio. Oddly enough, the resistor did not heat up much when I ran it on low power during the battery test. Worse case scenario, I'll add cooling tubes around it...
02-11-2007, 03:52 PM
#18
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
Plating the Hull:
Wow, I finally found this old thread!!
Anyways, it's been about half a year now and I've only gotten the chance to work on my boat recently... here's an update:
I sanded the hull a bit further to roughen up the rough spots, now it's nice and even! Next was the long process of plating the hull with styrene sheets. I reason I decided to do this is because the styrene sheets, once stuck to the hull, will create that realistic metal plating effect seen on real U-boats. I decided to use epoxy since it is one of the most reliable glues there is. I decided to sand the back of the styrene pieces a bit, as the rough surface will help the epoxy adhere better. No pictures yet, but I've attached some schematics to show the hull plating and a photo of a WWII Type VII's hull close-up to show you what I mean.
Wow, I finally found this old thread!!
Anyways, it's been about half a year now and I've only gotten the chance to work on my boat recently... here's an update:
I sanded the hull a bit further to roughen up the rough spots, now it's nice and even! Next was the long process of plating the hull with styrene sheets. I reason I decided to do this is because the styrene sheets, once stuck to the hull, will create that realistic metal plating effect seen on real U-boats. I decided to use epoxy since it is one of the most reliable glues there is. I decided to sand the back of the styrene pieces a bit, as the rough surface will help the epoxy adhere better. No pictures yet, but I've attached some schematics to show the hull plating and a photo of a WWII Type VII's hull close-up to show you what I mean.
03-08-2007, 08:21 PM
#19
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
Radio Equipment:
WOOHOO!!! Brand new Futaba 4EXA radios ystem has arrived! Now I can finally start configuring the servos and receiver so they can fit in the WTC.
WOOHOO!!! Brand new Futaba 4EXA radios ystem has arrived! Now I can finally start configuring the servos and receiver so they can fit in the WTC.
03-10-2007, 12:52 PM
#21
Thread Starter
RE: Building the U-52
Thanks!! I sure will.
Update: I have just purchased the silicone that will go on the WTC and the prop shaft seals. Have configured the rudder and throttle servos, I decided to keep the MSC just for now.
Update: I have just purchased the silicone that will go on the WTC and the prop shaft seals. Have configured the rudder and throttle servos, I decided to keep the MSC just for now.
