MAG44

Hi guy's

Iv finally got around to building my tiger 1 after its been sitting in the garage roof for the best part of two years. The tank is a rx13 or 14 board with S&S. Iv upgraded to a metal gear box, early tracks, running gear and metal idler adjustments.
It also has recoil and flash.
Iv got it predominately assembled and have begun to spray of its camo, iv chosen 2nd SS panzer battalion "Das reich" as the unit.

Couple of questions
How do i adjust the tracks correctly, one keeps working its self lose and i think i might have one to many links in both of them. Also once iv tensioned them will i still be able to remove them to screw the hull back together

The gun recoil works but the LED only flashes some times, iv worked out the barrel isnt moving far enough back to trip it, any suggestions

What size pc fan should i use to cool the main board as i am thinking of getting a lager capacity battery.

I might modify the smoke unit to use a 40mm pc fan to power it, iv already opened it up and i am in the process of changing the wick and heating element size.

Thanks

thecommander

Hi mag44,

Are you a Dirty Harry fan with that handle? I used to carry one of those as my off-duty weapon. I was just too damned big and heavy. My Glock is more comfortable and had higher round capacity. The HL Tiger I track length can be adjusted but removing links as necesary. The tracks can be removed by pushing out the metal link pin. Just remember that one end of the pin is knurled for gripping the track link. The track can be also left whole and slipped off with the drive sprocket as a unit. Pop off the cap and remove the screw. Once clear of the out-put shaft rotate it down and rearward to remove. You can add also aftermarket tenioners or make your own. If I may suggest, leave of the six sponson screws out and just use the lower hull screws until you have all you modifications perfected. This may ease your efforts (aka the KISS principle in action). Check the barrel and recoil unit for an obstruction or burr/lip that is interfering wiht the lenght of travel. Also make sure the switch is not moving/loose or poorly positioned. You may need to add material to the contact point to ensure proper activation. By larger capacity battery I hope you mean going from a 1700 Mah to 4500. Not an increase in voltage. The higher capacity battery is a great idea but does not always require a cooling fan. Stronger motors, metal tracks and other strains are bigger concerns for RX cooling. It is always wise to cool these electronics. Phil at rctankwars.com has some nice fan so and suggestions. Please post some pix of your tank.

I hope this helps. Good luck, Bob

MAG44

Actually the name is my initials and the 44 relates to 1944 which iv studied alot on.

Iv got a adjustable tension system installed im just unsure on how to tension the tracks correctly.
The barrel seems a little sluggish so i will check the spring but i think adding something to the contacts will be the quickest and easiest solution.
I do mean a larger Mah probably about 3700, i know i cant increase the voltage as i would fry it.
I will aquire a 60mm fan to cool the front tank section to try and preserve the electronics from heat death.

Was thinking last night about improving the sound quality, iv seen larger speakers but would some sort of amp help boost up the power.
I'm a product design student so iv got easy access to labs and machinery so i might bread board up a amp and see what the out come is.

I will post some pics soon as iv left my cam at home and its being posted down, also need to finish airbrushing the camo on the rear and doing the markings

Wozwasnt

There should be enough slack in the tracks so that they touch the 3rd road wheel from the drive sprocket.

MAG44

right well mines touching the first one so i defiantly have one to many links in it
will sort it now

snakestretcher52

The sound quality is a function of both the speaker and its enclosure. To reduce the high frequencies which, at higher volumes, I find a bit intrusive, I'd suggest lining the inside of the hull with thin foam which will act as a crude treble attenuator. I tried something similar years ago with some cheap and nasty hi-fi speakers. I lined the cabinet interiors with carpet offcuts and the results were surprisingly good.
A good quality speaker with a high efficiency rating (expressed in dB), will boost the perceived output of the amp; the higher the efficiency, the better that the electrical power is translated into mechanical power.

MAG44

Ok guys now that iv begun to sort out a few things several other problems have appeared and the projects scope has just increased allot!!!

I'v got a 4500Mah battery and its going like the clappers now, i want to get some 400 series motors for it, if i do how should i attach the drive gear onto it from my old motors?
Iv noticed the tank is flexing alot now due to weight what are peoples suggestions for bracing it up, should i build a new holder for the gear boxes to sit on.

I'm going to gut the inside to give me more space so a complete re layout for pcb and battery to allow the new sound board iv put in and the smoke unit i will be building.

I will post a few pics in the next few days