Jagdpanther road wheel problem
04-08-2011, 08:18 AM
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Jagdpanther road wheel problem
Hi Guys
I need to reduce the slop in my road wheels, especially the rear. It looks like that is causing the tracks to slide outward on the idler. Any thoughts on this? I am using the stock tracks.
Harle
I need to reduce the slop in my road wheels, especially the rear. It looks like that is causing the tracks to slide outward on the idler. Any thoughts on this? I am using the stock tracks.
Harle
04-08-2011, 10:15 AM
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RE: Jagdpanther road wheel problem
This is the HL JP right? Metal suspension arms and retorquing the screws might help some. Mine are sloppy too. I have so few hours runing it that I havn't had any trouble.....yet! Bob
04-08-2011, 04:52 PM
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RE: Jagdpanther road wheel problem
The aftermarket suspension arms I got from Phil take alot of slop out of the wheels because of the supplied brass inserts and chrome shafts. The stock plastic-on-plastic wears fast and sloppiness just gets worse.
The sloppiness in the suspension arms is also a problem, both on the stock and aftermarket arms, but getting larger shoulder bolts should fix this if you can find them.
The worst part is the rear idler system. The friction between the idler mounting bolt and brass bushing is really bad, so bad that the left side will cause the bolt to unscrew do to the idler rotation. To make things worse, there's also alot of slop.
I've rigged something on my Jagd, which has helped, alot, but I'm revamping it as there's room for improvement:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10365550
I just got the metal tracks, sprocket, and idlers, and I'm in the process of adding a ball bearing to the rear idler.
The sloppiness in the suspension arms is also a problem, both on the stock and aftermarket arms, but getting larger shoulder bolts should fix this if you can find them.
The worst part is the rear idler system. The friction between the idler mounting bolt and brass bushing is really bad, so bad that the left side will cause the bolt to unscrew do to the idler rotation. To make things worse, there's also alot of slop.
I've rigged something on my Jagd, which has helped, alot, but I'm revamping it as there's room for improvement:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10365550
I just got the metal tracks, sprocket, and idlers, and I'm in the process of adding a ball bearing to the rear idler.
04-08-2011, 08:00 PM
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RE: Jagdpanther road wheel problem
ORIGINAL: MassiveOverkill
The aftermarket suspension arms I got from Phil take alot of slop out of the wheels because of the supplied brass inserts and chrome shafts. The stock plastic-on-plastic wears fast and sloppiness just gets worse.
The sloppiness in the suspension arms is also a problem, both on the stock and aftermarket arms, but getting larger shoulder bolts should fix this if you can find them.
The worst part is the rear idler system. The friction between the idler mounting bolt and brass bushing is really bad, so bad that the left side will cause the bolt to unscrew do to the idler rotation.To makethings worse, there's also alot of slop.
I've rigged something on my Jagd, which has helped, alot, but I'm revamping it as there's room for improvement:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10365550
I just got the metal tracks, sprocket, and idlers, and I'm in the process of adding a ball bearing to the rear idler.
The aftermarket suspension arms I got from Phil take alot of slop out of the wheels because of the supplied brass inserts and chrome shafts. The stock plastic-on-plastic wears fast and sloppiness just gets worse.
The sloppiness in the suspension arms is also a problem, both on the stock and aftermarket arms, but getting larger shoulder bolts should fix this if you can find them.
The worst part is the rear idler system. The friction between the idler mounting bolt and brass bushing is really bad, so bad that the left side will cause the bolt to unscrew do to the idler rotation.To makethings worse, there's also alot of slop.
I've rigged something on my Jagd, which has helped, alot, but I'm revamping it as there's room for improvement:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10365550
I just got the metal tracks, sprocket, and idlers, and I'm in the process of adding a ball bearing to the rear idler.
I have this same problem with my Panther G, I hope new adjustible rear idlers and aftermarket suspension arms fix the problem, the heavy metal tracks only add to the problems with the other stock parts.
04-09-2011, 10:05 AM
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RE: Jagdpanther road wheel problem
Harle,
I have the Jagdpanther and metal tracks and not had any problems throwing tracks. I did clock the springs and made sure the torsenion arms were tightly screwed in. Haven't had a slip in two years.
Jim
I have the Jagdpanther and metal tracks and not had any problems throwing tracks. I did clock the springs and made sure the torsenion arms were tightly screwed in. Haven't had a slip in two years.
Jim
04-09-2011, 10:32 AM
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RE: Jagdpanther road wheel problem
Harle,
The screws arethe ones that attach the torsenion arms to the tank. You have to remove the tracks then the road wheel to access them. To remove the tracks, you'll need to take off the drive wheel and slide the tracks off with it. For the road wheels, use a small scewdriver to pry rhe hubcap off and you'll see the screw that holds the wheel on. Clocking the spring is just a term where you drill a new mounting hole for the torsenion arm springs ( about 7 O Clock if I remember). Hope this helps.
Jim
The screws arethe ones that attach the torsenion arms to the tank. You have to remove the tracks then the road wheel to access them. To remove the tracks, you'll need to take off the drive wheel and slide the tracks off with it. For the road wheels, use a small scewdriver to pry rhe hubcap off and you'll see the screw that holds the wheel on. Clocking the spring is just a term where you drill a new mounting hole for the torsenion arm springs ( about 7 O Clock if I remember). Hope this helps.
Jim
04-09-2011, 11:07 AM
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RE: Jagdpanther road wheel problem
Make sure you take note of the spring thicknesses. I've noticed on one of my Jagd's that 4 springs are thicker than the rest. these are probably for the front and rear road wheels.
