dash69

Hi All,

How do you put track on rear idler? This is an Antesian hull. My first Stug and metal hull. Trying to work on my own tanks (newbee) at this.

Thanks in advance for any help. It has teh wide tracks Snow tracks? on it. Some of the pins are coming as well.

Be well,

David

yellowshaker

My Feedback: (1)

David, remove a track pin to split the track. turn the track adjustment so that it is in the closest position to the last road wheel ( loose). Now put the tracks on and slide the pin back in to reconnect them. Now adjust the tensioner to get the track tightened up again.

dyeager535

My Feedback: (1)

I just fully compress as many of the road wheels as possible until the track slips on.

Compressing the furthest forward and furthest rearward road wheel suspension will get you the most "slack".

DirtyBird69

I agree....that's all I have to do as well...

dash69

Thanks guys. I will try and compress the road wheels and slack adjuster. As well as splitting the track if necessary.

Thanks again for the help.

Be well,

David

dash69

track back on idler thanks for the help. Now how much slack should be in track. At rest I have about 1/2 inch or so slack. I found adjusting teh idler on this hull difficult because of the bolt is hard to get to with wrench? I used tweezers.lol but is there a better way?. First time I have ever worked on tank so I may ask obvious questions to everyone. I must say it felt very good to do what I have done so far. Thanks again.

Be well,

David

Buckeye36

My Feedback: (3)

Here's a link for a nut driver I use, it's a perfect fit for the tensioner:
http://rctanksaustralia.com/shop/ind...products_id=56

yellowshaker

My Feedback: (1)

If you don't want to wait for the driver, I used a dremel with a cutting disk on mine to make a notch. then use a small flat head screwdriver to turn them in or out.

Buckeye36

My Feedback: (3)

Here's one more link....$1.99!
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ewdriver_.html

thecommander

When I got my first Asaitam adjusters years ago I laughed at the design. But it is workable. Just like Joe I cut a slit in the head for a flat screw driver...cost: 0 dollars An allen head bolt will also work but just watch the length. Also, you may have to remove excess track links. **Helpfull hint: Keep a few spare track links with pins in a small ziplock bag inside the tank hull or mounted on the tank. This way your spares are always with you when you need them and not back in the workshop. If you have pins that come loose make sure the ends are knurled to give them grip or hit the ends with CA (super-glue). I also recomend you designate one link as the "Master Link" but marking or paint. The always break the track at this link. This way you can monitor the condition and eliminate track troubles. Stretching the tracks over the wheels can be viable, but is risky. Just be careful. Set it up the right way the first time and enjoy driving your tank...not fixing it at the battlefield.

dash69

Thanks for ideas. These are Winter tracks and many pins are trying to come out. I bought it used and am tracing down problems as I go. I will CA them in the morning. I do not understand knurling though. Please explain.

Don is in good spirits but tired. He sends his best to all of you. When the Stug is going I am going to go tanking with him and his Tiger.

Thanks again all and be well,

David

1sgt

Another option would be to saok them in vinger for an hour each ( need to change the vinegar between tracks). It corrodes just enough to lock the pins in and gives a good coloring to the tracks as well.

Jim

dash69

thanks Jim.

1sgt

No problem. On the tracks that I have soaked ( PZIV, Panther G an KT ), I have never had a pin work itself out

Jim

dash69

I will post pics of my Stug soon. Don has helped me in painting and detailing the carrier. I will be looking at the DBC3 and new radio. The RX-18 sound is not to my liking.

Thanks for all the suggestions and advice. Learnig all the time.

Be well,

Davdi

thecommander

HI David,

Please give Don our regards.....I sure wish your could bring him down to Danville with next weekend. We would love to see you both at the AAF Tank Museum. I would be availabe to do ANYTHING necessary to enable Don to attend Danville. Bill and I have been wracking our brains trying to figure something out.

Sorry if I left you scratching your head....Knurling is when you cut or scribe gouges in metal causing small pieces to rise up higher than original surface. This make the diameter slightly larger and gives it a tighter grip. Try rotating a good pair of needle-nose pliers tip around the track pin end and examine it under a magnifying glass. A file can also work. Most quality track makers knurl one end.
here is more info n the process: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling