rat now

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Im trying to do some battle damage on some of my tanks...does anyone have any pics of damage they've done (other than running it off the table ) Ive been trying to use like a small drimmel drill and a soldering gun to make preforations.
Thanks
Rat

Airbrushler

i just have some dents in the fenders on the T-34

rat now

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Nice, yeah Ive done that on one of my Tigers but I got bored looking at them today and decided I want to blast the hell out of them...lol I mean make them look like they have been in battle. I need to do some dios like yours...man that looks sweet! I take some pics here in a minute of what I have so far.

rat now

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Heres some pics so far....and the allies are waiting to do some more!

Airbrushler

i like the ones with the burn blast around them as for the machine gun holes i don't know idf the would be an exact distance apart and so uniform
but i don't know i don't shoot guns maybe someone out there that has shot a machine gun like Bill may know
yes i will try to make another display board soon just have to find some time to start another one looking good though RatNow

sollie

here is my damage.

I did some practise on a fender not in use first.

rat now

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Looks nice...what did you use for the shell markings?

rat now

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Thanks, your right, I havent shot one either but Im sure different siuations would show different damage....hell, I think it gets the point across. Im going to go watch a war movie then make some more damage...lol

Airbrushler

what war movies you going to watch?...lol

sollie

I did it with a 40w weller with the tip in the pic.

rivetcounter

Watching a war film is by far the worst way to get an impression of how a machine gun burst would look and a straight line isn’t the way things happen, without trying to insult you, the marks you have achieved just look like someone has stuck a hot piece of metal into plastic, the strike of a machinegun round would hardly make an impression in the steel also a 7.62mm round in 1/16 scale is .47mm the marks you have look more like the size of a 37mm flak gun, on the plus side the slightly larger marks with black around the side do look good as with a lot of things less is more and battle damage is very hard to achieve but very easy to overdo

ausf

If you don't mind some constructive criticism, here it goes...

When doing battle damage, it's best to look at pics of the real thing. There are a series of books called 'Panzerwrecks' (I believe they're up to 13 now) but also an entire host of websites, if you google damaged panzers or tigers under images. Years ago there was a Russian site that had literally thousands of photos of destroyed German armor, I'm sure those images are still online.

You need to keep in mind of the surface. A MG round is barely going to dent the rolled steel armor of a Tiger, it certainly won't penetrate. Anything big enough to penetrate will usually take the crew with it. The metal 'splashes' can be found on some hellacious angle shots of large round, but most shots the leave nice round holes with cracks and in those cases, the tank is a loss with ammo racks, etc cooking up.

For the fenders, exhaust shrouds, stowage bin, they were sheet metal and bullets would make indented holes. A good method is a drill and use an exacto to enlarge and indent. For bent fenders and such, heating the plastic lightly until in has some give, then bending it with pliers works well. For 1/35, I used to just hold the pieces up to a light bulb until they get hot, but for these ABS tanks, you may need more heat.

I'll try to find some pics, My older files were all lost with a hard drive crash, but if you look on armor modeling sites (not RC) like armorama or missing lynx, you'll find tons of top notch work and ideas. Like anything, find a real example and copy. I've seen guys copy actual destroyed tanks down to every round and dent.

Rebellion13

Well here is my 2c. I have shot a machine gun......and let me say this, the rounds hit everywhere EXCEPT where I was aiming lol. It was a testosterone boost though.

Cheers
Wade

FreakyDude

I think the top third picture from the left in Ratnow's Tiger pictures is probably the best real damage.

rat now

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Thanks for all the positive and negatives....thats how you learn. Airbrushler, I have a ton of old war movies I just plug in and play when Im out in the shop. I dont neccesarly look at them for details. Hollywood is the last place for that! I googled tank battle damage first but didnt find ant machine gun damage. I just got bored and shot from the hip so to speak. I can take some of the melted look out of the thinner metal parts, no problem. Thanks again.
Rat

rat now

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Heres some real damage I found.

borabora22

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I congratulate you for experimenting and enjoying your tanks in new ways. Keep up the work as it inspires me to try that sort of thing. Thanks for posting!

BIGMIG

Found some of the comments interesting in a way.Not an expert on tank dammage and machine guns.I believe a good number of WWII aircraft had the 50 cal machine guns stashed away in the wings and would shoot at just about any good target they came accross weither they could actually take it out or not,they still shot at it.

A 50 cal has a lot of power.........Capable of puting rounds close togeather in a straight line ?? I don't think that is out of the relm of reality.How close togeather...well depends on the angle of attack.

Seen some rather interesting bullet strikes on hugh cannon barrels on corregador from aircraft straffing,along with cement buildings
and pill boxes where these big cannons were mounted.

Don't know how thick of steel was used on tank fenders,but would make a good bet you would find a hole or two in them if they had received a good straffing from an aircraft firing 50 cal machine guns into them.I believe a 50 cal will penitrate 3/4 inch steel from quite a distance with no problem at all.And they did use incinderary rounds that might mar the paint job just a bit.

BIGMIG

Shooting down on a tank and shooting straight at one is a whole different ball game i would think....More modern day but one might find some battle dammage in this picture....On tanks....

pattoncommander

The MG holes are much too close and in line..they would be sporratic and rarely close together. Especially on the rear side...looks like hits from something much bigger than a 50, and don't need the "belly button" ridges. The side and front hits show a splash which is too big. On heavy armor, a chunk would be gouged out and reveal a bare metal, not painted over and a dark burn splash. MG holes do not leave dark splashes..just a small, clean hole....like on your stowage box,,just a couple holes on that thin sheet metal, no splash. Also angle has to be considered...on the side fenders, bullets would normally strike that 45 degree sheet metal at an angle, so drill/burn the strike from an angle of the gun. On the heavier armor, you'd normally see small pock marks and scratches from mg hits.

An HE round can leave a splash and some smaller HEAT rounds strike and burn through may leave a small burn splash, but generally, not many people would toss a round of HE at a Tiger.

Nice attempt and a very good job on weathering and field filth.

rat now

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Thanks Bill, always good to hear from you...Im currently down=playing the holes and trying to make them more realistic. I'll post some pics when Ive finished to see if Im on the right track. Thanks to all for your comments.
Rat

BIGMIG

I can tell you a test i did with a 222 rem. riffle catridge using a 55 gr. lead and 23 gr's of ball-c # 2 powder and a standered small riffle primer.(this is a typical hunting or varmit load ).

Sitting up a sheet of 1/2 in. steel plate.......firing at 30 feet away..........went through like you drilled the hole with a drill...(with exceptions ).

One would think if the metal was going to pooch out,it would be on the exit side of the metal.In this test (have done this several times ) it is just the oposite.The metal pooches out on the side the bullet enters,and the hole looks like it has small runs along the sides (kind of like melting wax would do).

A picture of a live 222 Rem........A live 308 or same as a 7.62 nato.....an empty 30-06 cartridge...and an empty 50 cal cartridge.

(there is only a few hundred feet per second "FPS" difference either way in all four of these bullets ) The 222 in the picture shoots out the muzzle at about 3,000 feet per second.....+ or - a few feet.
BIGMIG
P.S. As you can see this test was not armor piercing projectals...soft tip copper jacket bullet and same as in the picture.I not only shoot them...i reload them...shotgun,riffle,and pistol ammo....

danlrc

Likely not too realistic, but used some dremel tips in a soldering iron to make impressions with grooved "splash" marks. Also tried to simulate an exploding round bending and burning an exhaust manifold and also tried simulating a fire under a rear deck vent screen. This is on a Tiger that was in street fighting in Warsaw ( http://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forum...d+tiger#p66198)

sollie

Danlrc, those came out real good I think. I see I have to make some splash marks on mine

rat now

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Look very real to me.....

pattoncommander

Rat, I'm trying to post, but either the site won't take photos or times out after 4 minutes....[:'(]

Here are a couple Pz IVs I did a while back for field static displays. Hits are from 37 or 75mm guns which did not penetrate and mg hits from 30 or 50 cal. Depending on paint type and temperature, mg hits will peel or chip off a bit of paint around the hole. On my larger hits with chunks taken out, bare metal shows but after 3-4 days it would reflect a little rust. I have a bit too much silver on a couple hits, but for the display, it was OK. You can also add a busted open water/oil can and simulate contents driping onto the tank.

I took hits on my M-46 in Korea from a Russian/Chinese 12.7 MG. On one sponson box, some paint was peeled away whereas another, just clean holes and dents. We figured it was plain ball ammo. A case where I would have liked to get some photos, but other things had priority. A jerry can of oil was shredded and leaked oil into my engine compartment..