Zorkon

Took possession of tank yesterday, and thus far I have applied my first attempt at re-painting it (not finished), and have replaced the drive sprocket, idler wheel and tracks with all metal units.
I keep having problems with pins walking out, and one of the tracks slipping off the front sprocket.
I have applied a dab of black enamal paint to each pin on the tracks to try and get them to stay, with poor results. I have tried taking a link out of the problematic track, but it compresses the suspension such that there is no sag, and the track rides unrealistic on wheels with fully compressed swingarms. Not acceptable either.


(Haven't even begun weathering, detailing or otherwise "finishing" the tank...I wanted to DRIVE IT!)

Would clocking the springs (as previously discussed), or replacing the springs help here, or is that mostly cosmetic? I know there is an adjustable idler assembly available...is that my best bet?
Otherwise, I'm having a lot of fun with the thing.

[link=http://home.comcast.net/~cornzilla/panther.3gp]Very short video clip of Panther[/link]

siam

Hello Zorkon,
My friend has 2 HL Panther G(s) , the first one he did install Mato metal tracks and wheels as yours and he faces no tracks& wheels problem but only he needs to clock the springs...and the second one,he replaced the HL plastic tracks with Tamiya Panther G plastic tracks and this is a betterresult choice.
For your case...I recommend consulting with Phil of Rctankwars,...he's one ,...you can count on him.

A N Z A C

Hi Zorkon

Nice looking G you have

Track Pins walking out
solution
one small drop of Super Glue applied should secure them in place - if problem persist consider a set from IMPACT or the like



16T012 IMPACT set of metal tracks for Tamiya Panther G and Jagdpanther. Sold as set only. Fine detail and running characteristics. Uses the IMPACT MLR pin system, a mechanical locking system to keep the pins in place. Set contains complete set of tracks right and left, extra links.

Frantz70

<xml><w:worddocument><w:view></w:view><w:browserlevel></w:browserlevel></w:worddocument></xml><xml><w:latentstyles latentstylecount="156" deflockedstate="false"></w:latentstyles></xml><style type="text/css"> Style Definitions */table.MsoNormalTable{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;mso-style-noshow:yes;mso-style-parent:"";mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;mso-para-margin:0in;mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;mso-pagination:widow-orphan;font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-ansi-language:#0400;mso-fareast-language:#0400;mso-bidi-language:#0400;}</style>

I have a Panther G that with the metal upgrade supplied parts installed constantly wanted to do that, the tank ran great with the stock plastic tracks. I tried track tensioners and getting all the wheels and drive parts shimmed so they were straight but nothing worked.

Personally I think it is a timing compatibility and alignment problem with the metal sprocket and Matos metal tracks.

In other words the teeth or the holes in the track were off.

Pah co chu puk

I have a Panther G with metal tracks, sprocket and idlers.  I have clocked the front and rear two road wheels and installed adjustable idler mounts with custom brass idler axles.  It also has 3:1 gears.  It has never run on pavement. 

I run it in snow, mud, dirt, sand and grass and have yet to throw a track.  It is the best running, least trouble tank I own.  In fact, it's great running has earned it a DBC/RC2 so I can battle it.  Three years of hard running has proved it will survive battle field driving.  Surviving the fight it'self is another story.

DirtyBird69

I would also do a thorough inspection of each track link...I found a bunch of sprocket holes partially filled with excess casting and had to take an exacto to clean them out. Also if you haven't done it I recommend "stretching" the tracks(It's easier if they aren't already connected at the ends). To do this merely turn the track inside-out and apply pressure while holding the track about half way up in each hand so as to create a loop with the inside of the track facing out.Then merely roll the track back and fourth with your hands. You'll be sure to find tight spots that you might have to add a little more pressure and work over several times to get the tightness out. For good measure I'd turn them back inside-right and do the same thing from the opposite side and try to max out on deflection so as to get the pins and links worked in really well from both directions. If done right you won't have to adjust for track tension down the road as you have alreadybroke them in, plus the pins will have less tendency to come out as they will be slightly "tweaked" from the stretching. I would also highly suggest a track tensioner kit(phil at rctankwars can hook you up)...then you'll be able to get the sag right where you want it and adjust as necessary over time.

you might wanna run the sprockets with no tracks and see if maybe the sprocket isn't running true which could be a bent output shaft, or maybe the sprocket isn'tmounting on straight for some reason.....just a thought..if all the metal parts are mato they should fit...no big deal.

Zorkon

Excellent suggestions all! I can't wait to get home from work and try them. I have a mato 3:1 gearbox to put in, and haven't 'broken in' the stock gearbox accordingly. I think I'll take it apart tonight, put in the new gears, clock the springs and examine/clean up the gears and wheels. I really can't wait to start weathering the thing, but don't want to start until I get it running right.

texchap

I utilized the Tamiya Panther G tracks and have had no issues.

yellowshaker

My Feedback: (1)

Might I suggest checking the alignment of the tracks on the sprocket? I have found that sometimes when installing the metal upgrades the sprockets need to be shimmed to bring them out enough. this solves the problem most of the time.

Zorkon

I think you may be right about shiming the sprocket. With the track off, the problematic left side has all sorts of lateral movement, at least 1 if not 2mm from center. Running the track with the tank suspended seems to run fine, but I think when under load, or if turning, this is exagerated and causes the track to climb out of it's track...so to speak. What is the best method for shimming sprockets? Washers cut into a "D" shape?

Pah co chu puk

Yes.

I use brass washers to make cutting less trouble.

1sgt

One other thing you may want to check is the alignment of the two sproket halfs. Make sure they are parallel to each other. On my Panther G I had to clean out the screw hole a bit from some metal flash. I have also clocked the springs on both my Panther and Jagdpanther and have not had any trouble with the tracks at all ( both with metal tracks). Clocking also raises the tank to it's correct height as opposed to sitting on the toresion arms.

Jim

karel47

are you sure your tracks have equal trackpieces on both sides, when i got my torro metal panthertracks home when counted one was one bit longer that could be the problem too, it easy to fix, one track out and its done ????????????????????????

Zorkon

I ended up clocking the springs on the first and last two roadwheels on each side. And I'm still running the left side with one link less than the right...right stays on...too lazy to remove it while it's working right.
Since then the only track related issue I had was losing the left sprocket bolt and outer sprocket half within the first ten feet of a run, and despite this, it didn't throw a track at all and worked fine through thick grass and other nasty terrain. I was able to find the sprocket half near where I started, but had to go buy a handful of m3x15 bolts the next day for spares.
Since then I've done a little more weathering, and added some track links to the turret, but I've been having so much fun just driving the darn thing around, I haven't slung much more paint.

Here is how it looks thus far:




Still have some more washes to go, and some track rustification, but I sure am enjoying this thing! I think I'm going to peel the stickers and hand paint the crosses next.
I shot a bunny with it out in the yard this evening. He looked up, puzzled then went back to munching clover. I advanced and he fled. He left a blue jacket missing a brass button...

ausf

Glad to hear it's running well, it certainly looks sharp.

YHR

Those last two pictures are excellent.

Sounds like you have your track issue looked after. One thing that has worked well for me with the track pins, is spray painting the backside of the tracks with a texture paint. It is the stuff out of a can that gives a rough finish. You can buy it in many colors, but I like to use thecolors closet to metal. It locks those pins in well.

1sgt

Zorkon,
Another easy and cheat fix/upgrade is to put a thin piece of tape horizonatlly across the center of the headlight and paint it. When you remove the tape your left with the center slit resmbling a bosc headlight. Additionally, if the headlight has the frog eye look, you can cut the plastic even with the headlight housing giving a flat surface to the headlight. The led will still operate and when used with the tape painitin looks very convincing.

Jim.