tsull

I have a HL KT that I modified by (many many things) pulling out the elevation motor and using a servo. I want to try a Clarke TK board, but I need to use the servo elevation system as there is no way of putting back the HL elevation motor.
Has anyone tried to modify a servo to make it a continuous motor and used that system? Since the Clarke board has the elevation motor that can change rotation direction (I'm hoping from reading the material), why not use a servo motor?
Any thoughts ?
Thanks tjs

FreakyDude

lay the servo on its side at the back of your turret, attach a control rod to the servo and use a computer board stand off on the back of the cannon housing somewhere. servo going through 90 degrees of operation should be more than enough to elevate and depress that gun.
360 operation shouldn't be needed on the servo. It looks like you have the space for it.

tomhugill

Hey, the new TK22 board out by the end of the year has provision to use a modified servo as elevation, as well as momentum and some other features. Might be what your looking for.

tsull

I almost waited for the new board - but I received an email from Clarke(?) that those boards would be programmed for newer tanks. It might be awhile until WWII tanks are programmed. It's unfortunate that there was not a memory card capability for those controllers. You could than sell the sound cards.
It's my understanding that the Taipan card will have that ability?
QUESTION: I've read several DIY on how to make a servo a continuous motor, but if I just want it to operate as a motor (no Signal) in a 90 degree sweep as a normal servo would, is it the same process as making a continuous servo motor except you do not remove the stop on the gear system?
You would also need to throttle down the power supply by using the resistor(s) to lower the voltage to 4.6v(?).
A great DIY Tutorial on this would be great! hint hint
Thanks
tjs

Panther G

If you take out the board the servo becomes a 360 degree motor. I did it to my sons Tamlong Pershing and it works great. The elevation and depression limits really work well enough to take care of the missing board issue. Just got to remember that it would want to keep going if you hold the gimble lever up or down.
it gives a nice more accurate control of the elevation.