Rebellion13

Since there really isn't an idler system for this, does it need one? And if so, would the tamiya work? Or a scratch built one.

Thanks

Cheers,
Wade

Rebellion13

Ok I answered my own question, I was thinking the idlers were fixed and not operable. But I found an old post on actually making them stronger. But I still am thinking of using tamiya ones if they will work.


Cheers,
Wade

Panther F

I was pressed for time (and completely out of bearings) so I made THIS work:





Basically working on the principle of the stock Tamiya idler (only better) and knowing the axle/bolt on the MATO was steel and polished, I came up with a brass sleeve that was the same ID as the OD of the sleeve on the axle/bolt, drilled out the plastic wheel to accommodate the brass, CA'd the already press fit and then used nylon washers to "seal" the ceramic grease... so what I came up with is as good as any stock system without going to all bearings.



HTH














~ Jeff

Green Amphibian

It would be nice if the mountings were spring loaded or just adjustable though.

Herman

Panther F

So be it... modify 'em that way then.


Certainly from someone who can make things not get wet...














~ Jeff

Green Amphibian

I have a lot on the bench right now with the DD, but I have been thinking about it.

Herman

Rebellion13

Thanks for the input gents. I see that there is no adjustment, and I am not familiar with the tamiya ones, but are they adjustable? Just wondering if the tank throws tracks and what people have done to correct this. I ask because I am getting close to starting my mato sherman build.

Cheers,
Wade

Panther F

Yeah, the Tamiya hull has some slots for the idler adjustment.

I haven't looked at the Mato or HL inside the hull lately, but how hard can it be to add slots with some wider nuts on the inside?














~ Jeff

Rebellion13

See Jeff, this is why you come in handy Never even thought of that lol. Thanks

Cheers,
Wade

Green Amphibian

Cutting slots is only part of what must be done. The HL and Mato have a U shaped metal bracket that goes around the stern of the tank from one side to the other that the holes for the idler mounts are in. You would have to cut that up and reinforce the back plate some other way. There is not much room for movement either.

Herman

Panther F

First of all, thanks Wade for the vote of confidence! Always great to feel wanted.

And Herman, that was a HUGE bite you took building a DD tank. I've looked into it several times and I have seen one or two built but yet to see one float.

I do now remember the MATO idler as I attached it to the Tamiya hull for the Oddball build. I was going to slot the holes on the gearbox if I needed to adjust the tracks as that idler mount in stock form was a problem, BUT I was fortunate as it fit perfectly.

So I guess that's another alternative to adjusting track... if using a hull that will work.














~ Jeff

Green Amphibian

I was thinking along the lines of the Henntec idlers, but I.m not sure if the modifications to make it work on the HL or Mato hull would be possible. Why did you guys get me thinking of this again? Grumble, grumble, grumble......

Herman

YHR

I usually wait for the problem to develop before working on the solution on my models. It is nice to be proactive and everything, but I think if you adopt Jeff's solution for the idlers you will have a bunch of trouble free driving. Mato Sherman's don't seem to have many issues with the track staying on, so I think you might find the problem does not present itself.

The HL tigers though. NOW that is a different story!!!!!!

Green Amphibian

Dan, your right about not worrying about something that hasn't happened yet. I had looked at the idler before and said heck with it and left it be. This thread had me looking at it again and deciding that I would leave it as it is again until someone comes out with an adjustable unit. Hint, hint to all the aftermarket guru's out there.

Herman

Rebellion13

Thanks for the replies everyone. I am about to begin the build and was just curious if anyone had problems with the tracks, and if so what they did to fix it. Good to know that there really aren't any problems. I can start and do most of the cosmetic work on it. The only parts that I have to get yet are the metal vvss and the clark tk22 once it is available. Probably going to order a asiatam/taigen tiger lower hull also and get the tiger 1 up and running. Thanks again

Cheers,
Wade

Strato50

I battle with my Mato sherman, and find that if Im doing a lot of "high torque" maneuvers in the grass, I can sometimes jump the drive sprocket (tight turns, high speed over uneven terrain, etc..)... Also, while in reverse, I often skip over the idler! Im tempted to go all out and buy the metal active suspension & metal drive sprockets for this tank, maybe that would help.

I suspect a lot of my issues come from the fact that the idler mounts are only plastic, and the idler wheel actually bows inward a little bit. Maybe I'll just install a brass tube along the entire width of the tank, similar to the Henntec idler systems... albeit externally!!

Panther F

I think it's just inherit on vehicles with narrow tracks to have that problem.

Maybe adding some mass to help stabilize it would help. I know the metal suspension should be a start but adding some weight inside would be a plus too.














~ Jeff

Rebellion13

I have thought about grafting the HL vvss, to save on cost, but like you said Jeff, the mato needs the extra weight. Plus the metal suspension is really nice. I also plan on reinforcing the lower hull.

Cheers
Wade