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I have my Sherman just about finished. What do you use for weathering? On my static models I used the chalk method. Can I use that or do I need something different?

tomhugill

It's totally down to what you feel comfortable doing. I like painting all thé chips and scratches using multiple layers to represent the primer metal base etc. Washes and pigments have their place. Thé Tamiya weathering compacts are pretty good too.

ausf

The beauty of RC as opposed to static is: they weather themselves.

Anything you use on static; washes, pigments, chalks, pastels can all be done as long as you clear coat afterwards. Even so, you'll always end up with a nice natural dusting anyway.

Strato50

Ive come up with a few really effective and SIMPLE methods! First off, I often hand brush on my final colours, dabbing along to avoid brush stroke but it also adds texture to the paint. Looks great on cast surfaces.

I also have highlighted any panel lines, angles, or edges with a thinned out layer of black, I think they call that pre-shading :P Its like a shadow effect that looks awesome on models.

After that, a very thin dark brown wash on my DAK machines tuned down the brightness of the yellow ochre and turned out nicely.

Ive learned from some club mates that applying a couple coats of Frosted Glass acts as a great clear coat, and also adds a subtle layer of dusty / opaque features to your tank.



Now lately, on my DAK and KV-2 tanks, Ive tried this out and it looks awesome. If you want dusty / dried up mud tanks, I took a can of Rustoleum ultra-flat khaki, and applied it in VERY short burts at about 2-3 feet away. The distance allows for very faint application, and adds texture to the look. Turned out perfect for me.

Captain Nemo12

Has that KV-2 been weathered with the frosted glass spray as a final coat? It looks great!

Ronan87

The BEST system i have found is from AK-Interactive.

Airbrushler

i use all waterbased paints that way i can paint in the house all the time i use the frosted glass clear coat to coat all my tanks thanks to Tim and Glen of Can-Am for that tip
i use all dollar store acrylic paints for base coats and detailing mix up a rusty colour for damaged metal and worn areas
i sometimes do a white wash other times i do a brown wash or a black wash

Spitvalve

This is an excellent tutorial from a couple of years back by Streetsquid who posts here with some great builds. Step-by-step and with commonly available materials, and also very subtle and realistic.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_78...g%2CDAK/tm.htm

Mike.

thecommander

Congrats....Just in time for a NEAD battleday!!! T.B.A. Practice whatever weathering method you choose on old models first. If you work with water based paints you can "erase" your errors.

Love To build

My Feedback: (30)

That's right. I'm working on the stowage and machine gun. Then clean up the wiring and wire some switches in the TX then it's ready. I guess I'll dirty it at the battlefield first then do the weathering in the down time.

jarndice

I only have one tip for painting my Tanks, I do not buy modelling primer it is way too expensive, Get automotive acrylic primer, it comes in much bigger cans and is far cheaper but I always swap the spray head for one from a can of modelling paint, I do clean it first though. shaun

Strato50

The weathering / white wash you see was done by hand with acrylic. The frosted glass is more subtle and dulls the colours with a dusty finish, the camera only picks up parts of it.

The muddy underside of the KV-2 was with the Khaki camo paint. That's ontop of the frosted glass.. its more of a clearcoat that dulls down shine at the same time.

mcovalsk

The tutorial for the Geman vehicle is very good. I just would add that the WWII American tanks almost didn't have chipped paint. The tanks were painted directly on the cast metal with what nowadays we know as the powdering method, so the paint cured to 100 centigrade.

Love To build

My Feedback: (30)

Well my two tanks are done. with the exception of wiring on the Bulldog




Gonna decide the how much weathering when I see go through my books and figure what I like better.

I'm gonna try some of those techniques and hope I do well. Gonna get ready for the elefant. which is next on my hit parade. If anyone has any sherman chassis(non functional is fine) I have started to aquire many upper hull sets for the sherman. A4E2, Easy 8 setup, I just saw a jumbo on ebay, and scratch building a T40( love that TD on WOT)

FreakyDude

Love to build

Love To build

My Feedback: (30)

Another Question. Desert tanks, should the rust be kept to a minimum since it is an arid area with little moisture? If So, lean toward sandy debris and sandblast effect on the paint?

thecommander

Depends where they were. In Tunisia where the Bovi Tiger 131 was captured it is very lush and green. Well worn areas would stay bare metal longer and rust streaks would be smaller and lighter. Rain did hamper many battles in north Africa.

Strato50

So I have a crazy idea for applying wash / weathering to any future projects of mine. Please tell me why it's either nuts, or brilliant.. :P

Spray bottle. Diluted brown / black acrylics. Drop of dish soap. Proceed to soak tank, let it puddle, let it drip off and streak down. Voila, natural dirt, grim & weathering, where it would accumulate in the field in normal weather...



Also I'm incredibly lazy and the fact that this would take all of 3 minutes to do is very appealing.



*edit* So I went ahead and soaked my Sherman in "real brown" acrylic, water and dish soap... pics coming soon

Airbrushler

how i do my washes

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56fnR47yZT4&feature=player_detailpage[/youtube]

Panther F

I think weathering should be a cautious approach.

No tank should have any/much rust on it, especially Sherman tanks. Maybe a little wear around heavy traffic areas like the hatches, cupola... but that's all a matter of opinion.

I just like using a black wash and maybe some light dusting. Mud is the next hurdle for me.














~ Jeff

Panther F

Nice video Greg!














~ Jeff

Rex Ross

Airbrushler
Thanks for the video. Love the music.......!!

This forum is just full of great ideas to get me thinking about doing things differently (and better) than I am used to......

There have been a number of ideas on how to weather and apply washes to models to make them look less than "factory fresh".
I think am going to experiment with all of them. I am going to get out my junk box and glue a bunch of my basket case parts on a sheet of styrene to make a test board for experimentation.

~~~~~~~~~

Strato50
I like that spray bottle idea ....... I'm gonna try it !!!

jarndice

When I served if any platoon commander saw rust on one of his vehicles the soldier in charge of it would be in more trouble than he could handle, I have no reason to believe the German army was/ is any different. It does not make any difference on base or in the field. Most platoon commanders view a rusty vehicle in the same way as a dirty rifle, UNACCEPTABLE.

Strato50

After a 2nd coat of 'real brown' acrylic, water and a drop of soap from a spray bottle... and a blow dryer this time for some neat streaking effects...

Im actually really happy how this turned out!

Rex Ross : I like it because I can quickly get a HIGH amount of water onto the surface that is uniform in its paint dilution. One spot is equally as washed as any other, with streaks on vertical surfaces & dark pigments where the water has pooled or found cracks to flow into...

Im going to use black on my upcoming PnzIV, on this sherman it was only brown.

Panther F

It DOES look very nice!

One thing I would change is the tow cable. The ends should/might be the color of the tank (unless they were taken off another vehicle) and the cable itself should be darker, like a shade of black.














~ Jeff