thecommander

Spray for camo almost all the time. Blocks of color pastes were dissolved into gasoline, kerosene, diesel even water and sprayed on. Water based camo applications faded badly. Winter white wash was temporary and meant to be removed if the the panzer survived winter. It was applied very hastily and with whatever was handy. Thats why whitewash looks so crude and uneven. Just like the guys had stated. Often in the spring they got a new paint job too. Winter camo tanks were often scrubbed down in a stream or near a river. "New" camo was painted over tools, cables and spare tracks often at this time. Camo varied by Abteilung, region/terrain and maintenance units. Replacement tanks often did not match their older team mates camo patterns. In some cases you can even tell if the painter was right or left handed....LOL. Replacement parts like fenders, turrets, hull plates, schurzen, even gun barrels, were often left in red oxide primer and never painted to match the tank. Some spray guns were gravity fed and some siphon fed (as in the pix) which also effected the camo pattern. The wide variety and porgessively creative camo patterns is what, IMHO, makes the German tanks the most popular to vehicle to model in all scales.

PS This is the reason the Aberdeen tanks look so bad. All the camo weathered away and horrible (some have faded to pink) paints were applied over and over again with NO regard for any accuracy. Tanks that languished and sat in a watery mud bog for 65 years look better then the ones "preserved" at an ordnance "museum". What a shame.

Panther F

Yeah, most whitewashing was field applied and most likely done with a brush.

But base paint and camos was almost ALWAYS sprayed on.



I like that last pic Bob... need it for my desktop this winter!














~ Jeff

tomhugill

As I said just trying help out, having built one and all If I disagree to wind you up you'd knows out it

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The recoil is done. Since Hooben didn't include instructions on how to hook-up the upgades I have to figure them out. Recoil was easy since the mounting holes in the new plate matched up with the original bracket fro the recoil mechanism.

TheBennyB

Interesting. How does a flash go into the barrel with that attachment point on the back of the barrel tube?

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The wire comes out the side. The wire comes out the side of the barrel. There is a slot on the side of the mount to allow for recoil movement that allows the flash wire to exit (which is the stock arrangement). If you look at the second picture, the black and red wire is the flash connection.

tomhugill

What flash are you planning on using? I was able to fit a Tamiya or HL flash down mine so had to chop the wires on the HL one and thread it down the barrel. Led flash should be fine though. Servo mounts look good though, is the traverse servo controlled?

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I have the LED flash unit that I received with the Clark board setup. The traverse is servo controlled. They gave me a servo, mount, and arm for it, but I have to figure the mounting out myself.

DirtyBird69

Figures this would become available  as soon as I finally have my Elefant set-up with EL-mod and custom servo recoil/and Tamiya Jagdpanther traverse unit...ARRRGH. At least my servo set-up has a control board so I could set the speed of the recoil in both directions for a very realistic look...

thecommander

LOL LOL LOL....

So tell me Bill. What is the tally up to for shaking your head and exclaiming "What was Hooben thinking?" How many bottles of booze have you consumed thusfar?

thecommander

It wouldn't have made much of a difference Dirty. You are on your own anyway to fabricate a fuctional system. LOL Hooben strikes again. I have a Hooben Elefant for myself. But after spending way too many hours on a customer's Hooben tanks I need a clean break from them for a while.

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Actually it hasn't been that bad. With all the control linkages I made for Planes I have all the goodies( ie: quick links, Ball links......etc) to make this setup.

Heres a pic of the elevation setup. I notched the base plate for a little clearance. I cut back on the barrel housing where the Hooben arm goes into about a 1/4". I also cut off the pin from side of the arm that connects to the second arm(which is not used). Where the pin was removed I drilled and tapped it for 2mm threads. I used a 2x6mm screw through the servo arm and screwed it into the elevation arm.

The servos are ok. I'm gonna change them for Hitec Metal gear High torque servos before moving on. The rotation is very simple also. Picture to follow on that.

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Here's the rotation setup. Pretty straight forward. All three servo setups work smoothly. Now back to following the instructions. :P

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All done with the gun mock-up. Do some sanding and filling and get a coat of paint in it.

thecommander

It is looking good Bill. I mounted the traverse on the top-side with the elevation. My RC plane expereince (which is very limited) did come in handy just like yours.

Panther F

Very neat work there Bill. Looks like it's paying off too!


Thanks for the pictures... it gives me some ideas now.














~ Jeff

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Well slacked off lately. Building the top turret. The back hatch has a lot of play in the hinge joint. I drilled the hinges out and used a carbon fiber pin for hinge pins. It's better but not perfect. Only going to open it to charge the battery. Put the rest of the hatches on. Now I'm getting ready to install the GFS plate and get the zimmerit on this section.

MAUS45

Looks good so far.

tch2000

looking great..........

White Tiger88

Amazing man! was this thing hard to build? (Debating getting one.....)

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Not hard so far. Parts fit needs tweaking. I should have the upper section done soon with the zimmerit on it. Still got the suspension next. The only thing was they upgrades the recoil, elevation, and rotation with a servo setup. There was no instructions on how to set it up, luckily I have a lot of experience from my RC airplane building. This build is going slower because I am trying different setups and wiring and having to make some mounting plates


One question, Primer. They used red oxy primer on these tanks?



Bill

MAUS45

Yes, red oxide was the primer.

White Tiger88

If you want a really nice red Primer check out the Vallejo german Red\Brown it can be brushed on or sprayed. (I have the yellow and it works amazing both ways)

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The Battle system base, power switch, and charge jack installed (I'll wire it later).

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Started the Zimmerit installation.