Pz III Ausf M Build
05-11-2014, 10:10 AM
#51
Over the Christmas holiday, I was able to do some the of the detailing. I used some stencils that I got from rctank.de. These are for the Tiger Is from Kharkov (1st SS PzGrd Div). So, I had the crest and the balkencruz that I needed. I figured I could construct a 4L4 stencil by frankensteining the stencils from rctank.de. That didn’t work. The result was awful. So, I asked Airbrushler for some help. He made some awesome stencils and I finally had an opportunity to use them. He actually made them in several number combinations (4L2, 4L4 and 4L5) and in two sizes since I wasn’t sure exactly what size was best. I went with the smaller size. The larger size would have fit, but I think it would been so large that it would have looked like I was cramming them to fit. I like the proportional fit of the smaller set.
CINCHOUSE helped me pick the number. We decided we liked the 4L5 best. So, that’s what I did. Gotta say that I really like the way that they turned out. I can easily recommend Airbrushler to anyone that needs any help. His work was awesome.
For fun, I also added a little rust to other metal parts. That was some serious learning. I tried using some filings from an iron (rusting) patio table. But, they were pretty chunky and wouldn’t attach to the laquer paint on the exhaust. Then, I lightly painted it with the enamel paint and then repainted with the filings using enamel solvent. That worked for texture, but not much color. Next step: let two nails sit in water for a week and rust. That makes for some beautiful, orange rust in very fine particulate. Painting that with water soaks slowly and gives a little color. For more color, let the rust dry and paint using solvent. It also gets into the crevices very nicely. (Note: this wasn’t my idea. I borrowed it from another posting on this forum. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...l#post11648070)
I tried to blacken my tracks with a 2-hour soak in vinegar. That worked a little, but I’m not keen on the results. I think next time I’ll try Blacken-It or some gun bluing.
Finishing touch was to christen the tank. Can’t find any pictures of the Leibstandarte doing this, but I did mention creative licenses earlier.
Friend of mine has offered to teach me to use his airbrush to blacken the end of the muzzle and the exhaust. So, that, a wash and some flat, clear coat to lock to protect the paint and it should be done.
CINCHOUSE helped me pick the number. We decided we liked the 4L5 best. So, that’s what I did. Gotta say that I really like the way that they turned out. I can easily recommend Airbrushler to anyone that needs any help. His work was awesome.
For fun, I also added a little rust to other metal parts. That was some serious learning. I tried using some filings from an iron (rusting) patio table. But, they were pretty chunky and wouldn’t attach to the laquer paint on the exhaust. Then, I lightly painted it with the enamel paint and then repainted with the filings using enamel solvent. That worked for texture, but not much color. Next step: let two nails sit in water for a week and rust. That makes for some beautiful, orange rust in very fine particulate. Painting that with water soaks slowly and gives a little color. For more color, let the rust dry and paint using solvent. It also gets into the crevices very nicely. (Note: this wasn’t my idea. I borrowed it from another posting on this forum. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...l#post11648070)
I tried to blacken my tracks with a 2-hour soak in vinegar. That worked a little, but I’m not keen on the results. I think next time I’ll try Blacken-It or some gun bluing.
Finishing touch was to christen the tank. Can’t find any pictures of the Leibstandarte doing this, but I did mention creative licenses earlier.
Friend of mine has offered to teach me to use his airbrush to blacken the end of the muzzle and the exhaust. So, that, a wash and some flat, clear coat to lock to protect the paint and it should be done.
06-20-2014, 02:18 PM
#54
06-21-2014, 11:42 PM
#55
Thread Starter
Thanks, guys.
Finished the painting. I’d heard of washes and dry brushing, and a friend of mine that does 1:35 showed me how. I may have gone overboard on the washes. They’re not quite as smooth as they probably should be. But, it’s a tank and they get a little grimy and not always in the same spot. So, I think we’re good.
Also, my friend used his airbrush to blacken the muzzles and the exhaust. I’ve decided to leave the tracks as they are for now. Nobody painted their tracks anyways and I’ll be driving this outside anyways. So, they’ll get dirty.
Final paint was done with Mr Hobby’s Top Coat (Flat). Seems my only options for paint here are either Tamiya or Mr Hobby. Can’t find anything else. Wonder if I can bring some spray cans of Dullcoat on a flight back from CONUS...
Finished the painting. I’d heard of washes and dry brushing, and a friend of mine that does 1:35 showed me how. I may have gone overboard on the washes. They’re not quite as smooth as they probably should be. But, it’s a tank and they get a little grimy and not always in the same spot. So, I think we’re good.
Also, my friend used his airbrush to blacken the muzzles and the exhaust. I’ve decided to leave the tracks as they are for now. Nobody painted their tracks anyways and I’ll be driving this outside anyways. So, they’ll get dirty.Final paint was done with Mr Hobby’s Top Coat (Flat). Seems my only options for paint here are either Tamiya or Mr Hobby. Can’t find anything else. Wonder if I can bring some spray cans of Dullcoat on a flight back from CONUS...
10-26-2014, 01:16 AM
#58
Thread Starter
Glad it helps. I tried to put enough detail to help someone starting out like I am.
A little while back a friend of mine agreed to paint the TC for me. He used a few of the decals I got from RCTank.de. But, most of it is his excellent hand work.
BTW...anyone know a good way to keep the metal wheels together? The outer road wheels keep falling off on me.
Enjoy.
A little while back a friend of mine agreed to paint the TC for me. He used a few of the decals I got from RCTank.de. But, most of it is his excellent hand work.
BTW...anyone know a good way to keep the metal wheels together? The outer road wheels keep falling off on me.
Enjoy.
10-26-2014, 06:32 AM
#60
Hey Philip, I think this is the first time I've seen this thread and it's amazing for a couple different reasons. First, just for the truly amazing work you've done here, and second because it's already answered a couple questions I've had lately and I'm sure there will be more. I have this marked to come back to for a more thorough read, but I already see you did the LED bow gun and that's something I'm just about to try on my mato PIII. I was just asking about that in one of the mod squad posts, and here's the answers right here!
As for the roadwheels, I've had good luck with gap filling gel super glue (the 10-25 second stuff with maybe a tad bit of kicker on a q-tip) applied with one of those fancy applicators just on the pin and at the base of the smallest OD on the inner wheel. Hard to explain but if you think it has possibilities for you I'll make a video. I still have to keep an eye on them but so far they're holding well and I've only had two that had to be re-treated. I've also considered a nylon washer, like they have on the spare, but so far haven't needed it.
As for the roadwheels, I've had good luck with gap filling gel super glue (the 10-25 second stuff with maybe a tad bit of kicker on a q-tip) applied with one of those fancy applicators just on the pin and at the base of the smallest OD on the inner wheel. Hard to explain but if you think it has possibilities for you I'll make a video. I still have to keep an eye on them but so far they're holding well and I've only had two that had to be re-treated. I've also considered a nylon washer, like they have on the spare, but so far haven't needed it.
10-26-2014, 10:57 PM
#61
Thread Starter
Gary, glad that you liked the build and it has answered some questions for you. I learned a lot by watching other people's builds; so, I wanted to share a little of what I learned.
Shoe goo, thread lock and gap filling glue (CA or super glue?)...I have some of all three. I'll try them out and see how they do. Thanks.
Shoe goo, thread lock and gap filling glue (CA or super glue?)...I have some of all three. I'll try them out and see how they do. Thanks.
06-25-2015, 06:58 PM
#62
Thread Starter
Small update:
Tried the shoe goo on the road wheels and it seems to be holding very well. I've run it quite a bit without any more lost roadwheels.
Borrowing Max-U52's idea, I added a screen over the fan on the control board to keep wiring out. This one is actually a patch for a window or door screen. Nice thing was that it came with adhesive already applied to the perimeter. So, I just cut the corners to wrap a little and stuck it in place. Looking back on it, I would put a couple of 1-2mm spacers in the corners to lift it from the fan. I can here it hitting the fan as the fan starts up.
Added a slip ring for a full 360 turret. Been using this tank to experiment with the UV LEDs. Still a work in progress.
Oh, and reminder to look for loose-ish parts after driving in the yard. My spare tracks on the lower hull fell off unbeknownst to me. They got hit by the lawnmower, which didn't do them any favors. Good reminder to check the tank when putting it away for the night.
Tried the shoe goo on the road wheels and it seems to be holding very well. I've run it quite a bit without any more lost roadwheels.
Borrowing Max-U52's idea, I added a screen over the fan on the control board to keep wiring out. This one is actually a patch for a window or door screen. Nice thing was that it came with adhesive already applied to the perimeter. So, I just cut the corners to wrap a little and stuck it in place. Looking back on it, I would put a couple of 1-2mm spacers in the corners to lift it from the fan. I can here it hitting the fan as the fan starts up.
Added a slip ring for a full 360 turret. Been using this tank to experiment with the UV LEDs. Still a work in progress.
Oh, and reminder to look for loose-ish parts after driving in the yard. My spare tracks on the lower hull fell off unbeknownst to me. They got hit by the lawnmower, which didn't do them any favors. Good reminder to check the tank when putting it away for the night.
12-09-2015, 12:41 PM
#64
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I took a look at all your in progress photos and I read through the first page of all your comments. I don't have any German Tanks except for the Leo I'm fixing up. I've been working on an old Tamiya Sherman and I'm not building it stock. I also started an M36B1 upper hull to swap out the look on the Tamiya. I have always liked the WW-II German tanks and maybe sometime I may get one. For now I have my hands full and way to many projects in progress to think about adding another.
I noticed you got the scale wing nuts. Are they actually threaded and can be taken off and on again? I got some mini hex bolts that I plan to use on my Sherman and the wing nuts would be great for a couple added details.
My Sherman is on RC Groups Tank page if you have the time to take a look: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2412393
I noticed you got the scale wing nuts. Are they actually threaded and can be taken off and on again? I got some mini hex bolts that I plan to use on my Sherman and the wing nuts would be great for a couple added details.
My Sherman is on RC Groups Tank page if you have the time to take a look: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2412393
12-10-2015, 09:21 AM
#65
Thread Starter
Quickly scrolling through your Sherman build and it looks like an interesting build.
The wing nuts are threaded. I got them at Axel's Modellbau (German site) and they come in sets of 6, if I recall correctly.
Just scrolled up front but it looks like you have a lot of repairs to make on the Sherman. I might be too late but Axel's has several metal replacements for plastic parts. Mitosal might be able to help with gearboxes and such.
The wing nuts are threaded. I got them at Axel's Modellbau (German site) and they come in sets of 6, if I recall correctly.
Just scrolled up front but it looks like you have a lot of repairs to make on the Sherman. I might be too late but Axel's has several metal replacements for plastic parts. Mitosal might be able to help with gearboxes and such.
12-10-2015, 02:39 PM
#66
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Thanks, I'll check out the wing nuts. My M4 is a what if build. It's by no means stock or copied from an original WW-II photo. It's actually an M51 made to look as if the US Army had the French 105mm gun and mounted it in their M4's before WW-II ended. My M-36B1 build will be as correct as I can make it. After that I'd like to scratch build a couple upper hulls to build an M-7 and an M-10. For those two builds I have two new HL M4's waiting to be highly modified.
