mcm308

I have the Promaxx 400 motors with steel trannies installed in mine. It will be a bit before I can test them out though. I hope they work nice with all the metal upgrades and Impact tracks. If not, I suppose I will have to upgrade to 480's ?

Imex-Erik

[QUOTE=Strato50;11711840]If you bought the 'metal' Leo from Mato I believe they supply all of their tanks with their own metal tracks, as YHR mentioned they are the lighter metal ones with the rubber pads.

Erik, which type does Taigen carry? Are they solid metal?

YHR is also right on the speed. I just got in some new steel gearboxes from Rctank.de (I just posted about them in another thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...-bearings.html

PatternFlyer

My Feedback: (182)

Will the stock electronics handle 480? Since 480 motors have car/truck standard 1/8" shaft, it will be a lot easier to change the pinion. However, without knowing the peak and continuous amperage capacity of the board we use on these tanks, I am not sure if 480 is a good choice.

mcm308

Not sure about the stock electronics. Im not using them. 480 motors got the same shaft as the 380/400 motor

Imex-Erik

Here is what I plan on using in the future just btw. Please don't rag on me until you see it in action. I plan on ordering two of these: http://www.hobbypartz.com/88e-aebc500-converter.html or something like those that convert a brushed signal to a brushless. Then you add in a separate brushless ESC and some 400-480 motors. Your stock controller will still work with the tank perfectly and all the functions of the tank will still work too. That is how I plan to make a 30mph+ tank eventually
I am still working on modding one of my Tigers, I already stripped all the LED lights from the tank and plan to add a lot more, but to do a way better job this time in hiding them. I'm thinking the Tiger 1 will be the best platform to start with as I have more options to work with as far as gearboxes. The Tiger 1 tanks can take a low/low, mid/low, or a high/low gearbox setting, so I will have more room to experiment with motors.

Also, you can always use something like a power analyzer to see how much current you are drawing. I posted a picture of mine a few pages back I'm pretty sure.

Hl524

hmmm... looks interesting and thats a solid gearbox. 540 motors would be a tight fit but doable... how do i order for that gearbox?

Hl524

the stock HL "2.4Ghz" are rated at 5amps continuous and peak of 20amps max. good with the 380s and 400s. these 4:1 gearbox may decrease high amp drain if you plan on 480s.

NM190

You guys need to chip the rubber on your running wheels.

NM190

Merganser

Went down the bank and then out to the local hobby shop to order all the Taigen upgrades. I hope the metal tracks do not turn out to be a problem. Will have to wait till spring to see how they work which will probably be in June the way this winter has been going. Time to get the Kyosho snow cat out.

cleong

For anyone who is interested, JR-RC has four sets of Tamiya Leopard tracks on the 'Bay right now.

Forgetful_Duck

Thanks cleong. I just ordered a pair.

Been looking high and low for these. On my trip to Hong Kong I went to LOTS of hobby stores and found nothing. Even went to the distributor for tamiya... They said it'll take anywhere between 3 weeks to 3 months for tamiya to run a batch through for production.

ANyone have any links where I can get some replacement motors and pinions? My previous post on pg13 highlighted the fact that 33,000rpm motors is WAY TOO FAST for this tank. Can't do any slow crawling at all.

I'm looking for something around the 22-25k rpm range. Currently using the Taigen steel gearbox. Standard ratio.

cleong

Only Waigo would have a better range of tank kits as well as some hop-up options and one or two random spares. For the rest of the shops, they may hold only one or two kits, if you are lucky. Jr-rc is a faster option, but you can only buy what he has. With your local distributor, you could order exactly what you need.

nexusys

Just received my metal wheels from Hobbyraw. quite heavy.

Thought i share these pics for your info.



Not sure if its ball bearing wheels. (i dont think so by looking at the physical point of view)
Rubber tyres? nooo.. its plastic. (very disappointing)
Other than that, it looks alright apart from "M" marking on each face of the wheels

UPDATE 21/01/14: Nope, not bearing wheels, just slot in.

Hl524

good day nexusys... you have to open the hub cap and remove the screw and inside you'll see the small ball bearing.
but just the same, the metal wheels from taigen are much better and more solid.
this set from hobby raw come already assembled and the hubcaps are very very hard to remove. i only managed to open up 1 road wheel. afraid to pry the others open and damage the hubcaps.
nevertheless, these are definitely stronger than plastic road wheels. the added weight also gives the leo's movement some character.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gU3R0s4D4Lw

Forgetful_Duck

That looks fricken awesome HI524!!!!

Is your tank sealed or waterproofed?

Noticed on the video description it says tamiya 540 crawler motors. Is that on the stock Rx18?

How did you get the bigger pinions of the 540 motor to work on your gear box?

nexusys

Hl524, thanks for the pointer... i never thought we can open it.. i tried soooooo fricken hard to open those wheels apart.... assuming its permanent and cut cost job... good to know its ball bearing wheels.

the video? awesome...! tips on waterproofing perhaps?

Hl524

the first step in waterproofing is changing the location of the on/off switches and volume regulator(i already removed the smoker unit-more space for the 540motors). 2nd is sealing all holes. party balloons for the battery. 3rd, the water splashes in the chassis through the opening in the front part of the tracks especially when reversing or spinning when one track is in reverse, so you have to seal it too. and 4th is choosing your puddles... don't stay too long in deep puddles.

re the 540 crawlers, i used the tamiya 540 35T crawler motors with 24T AV pinion gears. these motors give only 12000 rpm but its got lots of torque!!! and for the leo2, you neeeed lots of torque!!!

i tried to run these on the rx18... but then i started to smell the scent of burnt plastic... not reassuring. unfortunately, the rx18 can't handle the current drain from these amp hungry motors. I used the T2000 dual motor esc which can do 75amps continuous and 120amps peak current. the rx18 is only rated at 3-5amps continuous and max of 20amps. These motors do 9.5amps at max efficiency and 87.5 amps at stall (from 0 rpm or sudden reverse).

fitting these motors is just DIY. not professionally done, more of brute force... ehehe. maybe you guys have better ideas.


oh, and by the way, i have to tell you that the t2000 has only forward/back and Left/right function. so i have 1 receiver hooked to the t2000 and 1 receiver hooked to a tk22 for the sounds, turret rotation and gun firing and mg firing. these are bound to one 2.4ghz transmitter.

YHR

You could use a Sabre tooth esc. You would have to run this parallel to your tank controller. For instance if I was using a DBC/RX18 combo I would use a Y splitter to run the RC signal to both the rx18 and the sabretooth where the motors would be connected to. The RX 18 could handle all the tank functions and the Sabretooth esc would handle the amp draw of the motors.

Hl524

thanks dan.
this sabertooth 2x60 looks like it can handle the amps...

nexusys

Nice one Hl524, secret revealed.. hahahahahah

can i ask? why dont you paint your wheels?

Hl524

I tried to share this setup in a thread i posted 4 months ago but it was a 5 year old post... So...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...40s-motor.html

started this setup w/ the ztz99, then the m41. Rx18 & tk22 cant handle the high amps so i tried the t2000.
Sabertooth is also a good option, as well as the roboclaw dual motor esc.

paint? Maybe in the near future... ehehe.

Forgetful_Duck

Tamiya Tracks arrived from japan today. Very well made and VERY solid. No side play at all compared to the henglong standard plastic tracks. These are resin plastic with double metal pins for each section of track so the sprocket is actually driving on metal pins, not plastic. Best thing about them though are the thick rubber pads for grip and it's light weight vs full metal tracks. They are a bit heavier than the full plastic henglong tracks though.

For those who are running these on the henglong leo 2. Are the track pins removable? I'll be fitting them soon as well as changing my motors back to stock for this. Currently running some crazy 30,000rpm 380 motors off ebay which is way too fast and no torque. Tank is barely driveable and only so because the stock tracks provide lots of slip.

Hl524

awesommmmeee!!! looks real solid there. do the pads come off or is it clamped in there.

Forgetful_Duck

Pads won't come off. They are permanently stuck on, glue or adhesive. It's Tamiya Quality... if they weren't made to be removed i'm confident they won't pull out!