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  1. #451
    Imex-Erik's Avatar
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    You can use our dealer locator on our site or you can contact me directly at Erik@imex-model.com and I will find you someone close.
    Tech, Support, and Sales for IMEX Model Company/Taigen Tanks
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    (Too many tanks to list, but atm I am above 30)

  2. #452

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    Very helpful!!!
    Thanks a lot I was stuck with this modification. However, is not clear one thing, when you cut the wire that connects the airsoft switch to the elevation motor, which end do you cut the one that goes to the switch or the one that goes to the motor?

  3. #453

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful_Duck View Post
    I got my Tk22 yesterday from Ozarmour and spent a good few hours doing the conversion.

    Set it up on a mode 2 spektrum dx7 transmitter.

    By default you will need to mod some of the wires inside the upper turret for airsoft and up down elevation to work both ways.

    1. I cut the red wire that runs from the airsoft cannon safety switch to the elevation motor right at the base of the elevation motor. This is because I want to use the full length of the wire later.
    2. There are 2 smaller 3 pin plugs on the upper hull PCB below the big fat long plug. One actually only has 2 wires out of the 3 slots available (middle wire missing).
    3. Take this plug (2 wires but 3 pin plug) and wire and gently use a sharp modeling blade to cut away the insulation of the RED wire (pin 3) to expose the bare wire underneath.
    4. Take the RED wire which you cut earlier in step 1, and peel back some of the insulation. Attach this wire onto the RED wire in step 3.
    Attachment 1943090Note the 2 red wires (one is slightly pink) joining together under the yellow tape. I didn't even solder it. I just split the strands of wire in half and criss-cross wrapped them to the other wire.

    5. Basically your splicing the Airsoft motor's positive wire into the positive wire of the Coaxial machine gun LED, combining them together.
    6. Next take the other 3 pin plug that has 3 wires, and using a small screw driver, DE-PIN the BLACK wire and the ANY 1 of the other 2 wires. SWAP the black wire and the other wire and reconnect into the plug.
    Should look like this after the swap. Note the colours. Attachment 1943091
    7. Need to now plug the airsoft recoil switch (small 2 pin plug) from the airsoft cannon into the tk22 CN3 port, on pins 3 and 4. May need to cut osme of the plastic off the 2pin plug to fit.

    Reassemble the tank and you should have both up and down control on the gun elevation.
    The Airsoft cannon will also fire when stick is pushed all the way up (or down depending on ur channel and reversing switch). Reload delay is approximately 5 seconds before airsoft can shoot again.






    Very helpful!!!
    Thanks a lot I was stuck with this modification. However, is not clear one thing, when you cut the wire that connects the airsoft switch to the elevation motor, which end do you cut the one that goes to the switch or the one that goes to the motor?

  4. #454
    Hey guys,

    Can you help out a new guy here. I am in Los Angelse. Please sent me to the right place if this isn't the place to asked this.

    I came across this thread and read about 17 pages this evening. Now I am even more confused and my eye balls are spinning. We own a Heng Long Tiger for a few weeks. I had to open it up only to fine stripped gears. Now, my little boy wants a tank like his older brother, I just have to make sure I get a good one without breaking the bank like the Tamiya. The 2A6BB seem robust but the pricing and ad is all over the place and the metal motors from a place on ebay sound good but so did the tiger with metal running gears and tracks. Are they all different and I just read that Heng Long has a upgraded version on the turret. Help me out here. What should I be asking or looking for. I know nothing about these things but like to get into a club with my boys so they can have something to do and hone their hand eye and fab skills. Ebay or shop, its a few bucks difference so it isn't a big deal but really want to get the right one so it will last a bit. Oh, batteries, what do you suggest? if there's another 1/16 tank that's good out of the box, please advise. again, sent me to the right direction if this isn't the right place. Thanks

    Jeff

  5. #455
    YHR's Avatar
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    A basic Heng Long Panther. KV1 or Sherman with Metal gears will give you a decent tank OTB. All of the OTB tanks come with crappy batteries and you will need to upgrade to at least a 3000mAh battery

    All Heng Long tanks have the same basic layout but the three I mentioned have good running qualities. Ie they don't throw tracks.

    I have the HL Leopard 2, and with steel gears it is a typical Heng Long tank. It hasn't need any tweaking on my part with respect to the running gear.

  6. #456
    I msut ask, what's the difference?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Henglong...-/390669149674

    http://www.ujtoys.com/Heng-Long-3889...p/hl3889-1.htm

    Is the ebay verson a better or later version with all the up grades? I am still concern about the pot metal gear box. How can one tell the difference or what to look for if its a updated version. My kid really like the way it moves on those utube videos. Looks like I am stuck with the Leopard. Please advise.

    jeff

  7. #457
    YHR's Avatar
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    The difference in these tanks will be the Battery inside and Metal gears. RC Dynasty is Mato and they supply upgrade parts as well as the tanks. The lower priced one is a pretty good price on that tank. You could buy it and then upgrade to the Heng Long steel gears. Value to your door will depend on what you end up buying. Mato can supply the steel gears, and their metal tracks have rubber pads and are superior to the Heng Long metal tracks. Buying it from Mato means you can get all this stuff shipped in the same package to save costs. SO you will have to determine exactly what you want and then do a cost analysis on getting all you want to your door to see what your real price really is.

  8. #458
    Stock Henglong motors could barely push the metal tracks with rubber, So I upgrade to 400 motors 19000 RPM which was a great upgrade!! Way better speed and crazy power! but..... I would still like it to go faster
    I heard of people changing their gear ratios from 3/1 to 1/1 how do they do this?
    Any other ways to upgrade to go faster?

  9. #459

  10. #460
    Hi guys,
    I am a newbie here, but have been following this thread closely for quite a while.
    Yesterday I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a HL Leopard 2A6. I'd like to do
    some upgrades after it arrives. One of the parts I am looking at is track tensioning
    system:

    http://www.rctank.de/HQ-Leopard-2A6-...ystem?lang=eng

    This looks quite different from the usual metal idler support:

    http://tankarmy.com/heng-long-tank/p...-screws-p-1082

    Has anyone tried the tensioning system before? Thanks!

  11. #461
    Quote Originally Posted by nexusys View Post
    thought i share this, some modification i made for Leo's suspension. also newly installed and sprayed metal wheels by HL.
    YAY!
    Attachment 1965273Attachment 1965274
    Wow, fantastic. They look very much like Tamiya's suspension systems. How did you managed to do the mod?

  12. #462
    Strato50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by diabloflash View Post
    Stock Henglong motors could barely push the metal tracks with rubber, So I upgrade to 400 motors 19000 RPM which was a great upgrade!! Way better speed and crazy power! but..... I would still like it to go faster
    I heard of people changing their gear ratios from 3/1 to 1/1 how do they do this?
    Any other ways to upgrade to go faster?
    The gearbox discussion is a big one, but what you probably have in your Leopard are 'standard HengLong ratio' gearboxes, that have more recently been refered to as 3:1. There are slower RPM / higher torque gearboxes of a similar style and they are usually called 4:1s, but that will slow your Leopard down.

    If you really want your Leo to burn rubber, these are probably the best bang, speed and strength for your buck. They've had a good review on here and I've ordered a set myself.

    http://www.hobbyraw.com/item.jsp?id=903

    Quote Originally Posted by HoloTheWolf View Post
    Hi guys,
    I am a newbie here, but have been following this thread closely for quite a while.
    Yesterday I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a HL Leopard 2A6. I'd like to do
    some upgrades after it arrives. One of the parts I am looking at is track tensioning
    system:

    http://www.rctank.de/HQ-Leopard-2A6-...ystem?lang=eng

    This looks quite different from the usual metal idler support:

    http://tankarmy.com/heng-long-tank/p...-screws-p-1082

    Has anyone tried the tensioning system before? Thanks!
    The Henntech tensioners are tough and reliable. I have a set in my Tiger and they've been excellent for 2 years running.

    Just FYI they do use a 3m grub screw to hold the tension of the idler wheel. I recommend replacing that screw with an actual hex-head bolt so that you can really tighten it down with less risk of stripping the screw.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    CAN-AM Rc Tank Club - Tiger I * Panzer IV * Panzer III * Chi Nu Kai * Stug III-G **** KV-2 * Pershing * T-34/85 * M4A1 Sherman * SU-76i

    Clark board wizard. I can fix it!

  13. #463
    Quote Originally Posted by Strato50 View Post

    The Henntech tensioners are tough and reliable. I have a set in my Tiger and they've been excellent for 2 years running.

    Just FYI they do use a 3m grub screw to hold the tension of the idler wheel. I recommend replacing that screw with an actual hex-head bolt so that you can really tighten it down with less risk of stripping the screw.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Strato50, thanks the tips, very helpful!
    Last edited by HoloTheWolf; 09-25-2014 at 11:13 PM.

  14. #464
    Hey all - I know this is an old post, I'm new to the forum, Recently got an HL Leopard 2A6 and was just wondering what everyone is doing for track tension? I've found mine throws tracks really easily and taking my tensioner to the next notch I can't get the tracks back on - Do I absolutely need to split the metal tracks and run it this way or is there a dynamic tension option out there? I'm running metal tracks, Road wheel, Idler wheels and sprockets.

  15. #465
    Strato50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cfjpau View Post
    Hey all - I know this is an old post, I'm new to the forum, Recently got an HL Leopard 2A6 and was just wondering what everyone is doing for track tension? I've found mine throws tracks really easily and taking my tensioner to the next notch I can't get the tracks back on - Do I absolutely need to split the metal tracks and run it this way or is there a dynamic tension option out there? I'm running metal tracks, Road wheel, Idler wheels and sprockets.
    Looks expensive (they are) but they work flawlessly and are much more robust than any stock plastic idler setup.

    I use em on my Tiger and they perform very well.

    http://www.rctank.de/HQ-Leopard-2A6-...sioning-System
    Last edited by Strato50; 10-11-2014 at 05:26 AM.
    CAN-AM Rc Tank Club - Tiger I * Panzer IV * Panzer III * Chi Nu Kai * Stug III-G **** KV-2 * Pershing * T-34/85 * M4A1 Sherman * SU-76i

    Clark board wizard. I can fix it!

  16. #466
    Hey Strato50, thanks for the link - I found the HL version on there, they look great, I had already bought the metal idler mounts as an upgrade, but I still have the same issue as the standard ones so was a bit of a waste - bought them before the tank arrived.

    Do you think these spring loaded ones would put too much tension on the road-wheel bearings? (I have metal road wheels as well) How do you find them on the Tiger for that?

  17. #467
    Strato50's Avatar
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    Oh I thought I had edited and changed that link.. hehe yea there's a difference between the two.

    They aren't spring loaded, they're held in place with an M3 set screw once you manually set the tension to where you want it and then it's fixed. You can put the idler anywhere though because it rotates within the brass tube.

    They can handle a lot. My Tiger is 14 pounds and likes to eat grass.
    CAN-AM Rc Tank Club - Tiger I * Panzer IV * Panzer III * Chi Nu Kai * Stug III-G **** KV-2 * Pershing * T-34/85 * M4A1 Sherman * SU-76i

    Clark board wizard. I can fix it!

  18. #468
    Quote Originally Posted by Strato50 View Post
    Oh I thought I had edited and changed that link.. hehe yea there's a difference between the two.

    They aren't spring loaded, they're held in place with an M3 set screw once you manually set the tension to where you want it and then it's fixed. You can put the idler anywhere though because it rotates within the brass tube.

    They can handle a lot. My Tiger is 14 pounds and likes to eat grass.
    Yeah right oh, I got you! That sounds like a good setup, something spring loaded would be good but at least the brass tube gives as much freedom as needed despite not being dynamic. I had looked over for more pictures of it setup in the hulls or even for instructions but they are pretty hard to come by. Haha yeah thats good to know - im thinking of putting 2 batteries in mine so adding ~900gms, and it smashes sand and grass a fair bit which has thrown tracks a couple of times already.

  19. #469
    Strato50's Avatar
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    The Leo2 from HengLong is pretty robust considering all, especially for a 'basic' heng long. The metal wheels will most likely never give you an issue too.
    CAN-AM Rc Tank Club - Tiger I * Panzer IV * Panzer III * Chi Nu Kai * Stug III-G **** KV-2 * Pershing * T-34/85 * M4A1 Sherman * SU-76i

    Clark board wizard. I can fix it!

  20. #470
    They seemed pretty sturdy going on, the whole tank seems robust like you say. I just did the 360deg mod to the turret traverse gear and took a lot of it apart, took some photos. What electronics do you run in your tiger? Going by your sig you are a Clark wizard? So assuming a Clark haha

  21. #471
    YHR's Avatar
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    I have the Mato metal tracks on mine and I am still using the plastic idler set up. I ran them until they loosened up, and then I adjusted the idler to tighten them. I have no issue with the stock set up. Has anyone else?

    I was guilty of this in the past. Changing out components on my perception that they would fail. Since I have taken the "run until they are a problem" approach, I am surprised by how little I actually have to change!!! I have learned that once you start upgrading , you are continually chasing the weakest link until you have spent $600.

    Honestly My advice now is to change the gearbox to the 3:1,( 4 shaft). Upgrade electronics to a Hobby grade radio and RX system. Metal suspension, add an adjustable idler if it doesn't have one, and plastic wheels with bearings. Some tanks have great plastic tracks, The Mato Sherman tracks are indestructible, and all of the Tamiya tracks sets are good. Heng Long has gone backwards on their tracks of late and for this reason why you buy a Heng Long now you most probably need to either get Tamiya tracks or go with a metal set.. If you go with a metal set get the 4 shaft gear box with them, and you will have little trouble with your stock set up.

    The Leopard is a bit of an anomaly as when you put the 4 shaft boxes in, the tank is a little slow. However unless you are planning on your Leopard running at full speed all the time, I could live with the slower top end, and the improved torque that the 4 shaft gear box delivers.

    Cheers

  22. #472
    G'day YHR, Which ratio are the gearboxes from Hobby Raw? I got the ones I think you actually posted a link for a while ago - they are on the way - they come with uprated red motors already attached. The tracks that came with it are straight metal ones - they don't have any rubber pads on them.

    Like I said I am looking at fitting a Clark once they come back in stock - I can't find any at the moment and got told mid October they would be available again.

    Yeah I could live with more torque - I seem to spend most of my time in the backyard trying to get over difficult mounds of sand and holes that the dogs have dug so not too fussed about top speed!

  23. #473
    Strato50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cfjpau View Post
    They seemed pretty sturdy going on, the whole tank seems robust like you say. I just did the 360deg mod to the turret traverse gear and took a lot of it apart, took some photos. What electronics do you run in your tiger? Going by your sig you are a Clark wizard? So assuming a Clark haha
    I run all Clark, good times :P

    Quote Originally Posted by cfjpau View Post
    G'day YHR, Which ratio are the gearboxes from Hobby Raw? I got the ones I think you actually posted a link for a while ago - they are on the way - they come with uprated red motors already attached. The tracks that came with it are straight metal ones - they don't have any rubber pads on them.

    Like I said I am looking at fitting a Clark once they come back in stock - I can't find any at the moment and got told mid October they would be available again.

    Yeah I could live with more torque - I seem to spend most of my time in the backyard trying to get over difficult mounds of sand and holes that the dogs have dug so not too fussed about top speed!

    Dan and I both have those gearboxes, they're pretty kick-ass. Lots of speed.. regular ratio (3 shafts) instead of 4 shaft which are slower & more torque.
    CAN-AM Rc Tank Club - Tiger I * Panzer IV * Panzer III * Chi Nu Kai * Stug III-G **** KV-2 * Pershing * T-34/85 * M4A1 Sherman * SU-76i

    Clark board wizard. I can fix it!

  24. #474
    Strato50 - sweet man, I'm hanging for these Clarks to come back into stock so I can grab one - have you seen the ones with the gun stabilisation module as well? I'm thinking about chucking a Benidini on there as well for some nice sound. Those gearboxes should be perfect for me then too - the black motors I put in the other day seem to have a lot more torque and top speed than the standard ones - my tracks don't have rubber pads on them so they just spin as soon as I am on concrete if I stab it hard, might look at the Mato ones.

    Mine is the Airsoft model and I was wondering if it is possible to make it have barrel recoil and proper servo elevation? I'm thinking if the airsoft unit and barrel were in a frame of sorts that allowed it to slide along rails to recoil and then the frame were linked with another servo for elevation that could work? Problem is I don't know if there would be enough room inside for it? Has anyone done a recoiling Airsoft barrel with elevation? I figure if I could get it to go that would be perfect for the gun stabilisation module.

  25. #475
    Quote Originally Posted by cfjpau View Post
    Hey all - I know this is an old post, I'm new to the forum, Recently got an HL Leopard 2A6 and was just wondering what everyone is doing for track tension? I've found mine throws tracks really easily and taking my tensioner to the next notch I can't get the tracks back on - Do I absolutely need to split the metal tracks and run it this way or is there a dynamic tension option out there? I'm running metal tracks, Road wheel, Idler wheels and sprockets.
    here's what i did for the dynamic track tension system:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKtIYp-skiE


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