easyy 11

My Feedback: (2)

I would like to hook up few aux . lights on my tank

where do I tap into on a Tamiya set up ?

they are LED type .

Ex_Pat_Tanker

You can use the unused CN5 port on the MFU. This is 7.2V and will require a 360 Ohm resistor to protect the LED's.

This feed is on all the time. If you want them switch-able, get one of these and add it to the circuit upstream of the LED's, and connect the RC cable to a spare channel on the receiver:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1409892480...84.m1439.l2649

dragon245

High Ex pat, being a complete electronic fool have you got a wire diagram for this[:@]

easyy 11

My Feedback: (2)

a little diagram yes


I think the res. will go inline before LED .

Any way to connect it so when the tank drives it will come on?

Can I feed it from motor outputs ?

ausf

If you feed off the motor, the light will full brightness at full throttle and dim from there, which will look odd.

El Mod programmed a brake light to come on whenever you drop the throttle to neutral on their Kettenkrad system, which is neat, except it doesn't stay on the whole time it's stopped.

Best thing would be to either leave it steady on when the tank is on or use the servo switch recommended above to switch it off. The Tamiya M4 has a lights that are triggered with a stick/trim adjustment, but I think I used it a handful of times in 10 years.

Straight LED is simple to wire, the longer leg is positive, if you have it wrong, it just won't light. The resistor can go in any direction on either side. The more LEDs in series, the less resitance you need and there are plenty of calculators for it online.

easyy 11

My Feedback: (2)

full time on it is

will look nice in the eve for sure

Ex_Pat_Tanker

@ Gareth,

The Turnigy gizmo has a wiring diagram included - connect one of the 2 red wires to the +ve pin on CN5 (I don't have the tank in front of me, so I don't know which one is which), and the other to the resistor. Next connect the resistor to the +ve leg of the LED - if you are not sure you can try powering it with a pair of AA batteries, as this shouldn't harm it if you are wrong. (LED's generally don't like be subjected to reverse currents). Next connect the -ve leg of the LED to the -ve pin of CN5. You are now done!

CN5 comes with a (empty) plug installed, all you need is the 2 female pins to crimp the wires to. Farnell has them in the UK, Newark carries them in the US - the part number has been posted in another thread here (also I posted them on the UK club site).

easyy 11

My Feedback: (2)

Great thank you

dragon245

cheers mate

cleong

I use an R/C switch. It is powered off the receiver current and can be controlled by a spare channel on your radio.

http://www.jethobby.com.sg/cgi-bin/e...&idx=21&gid=18

thecommander

If you do battle even at night you definitely do not want your lights on...it is like saying "I'm over here guys...come shoot me." A Pico or similar switch is neat for RC control Or....you can also add just a small toggle switch to turn them on and off at the rear of the hull or hatch. Don't over think it.