Jagdpanzer IV 70/V
#1
Jagdpanzer IV 70/V
OK guys, the recent post on this critter has peaked my interest. So I ask the experts on this board, what is the best route to build one? Tamiya or hl based? Who makes the best conversion kit? Any input is much appreciated!
#2
My Feedback: (3)
Here is a link to the Profiline kit:
http://www.profiline-models.com/Jagd...70-VENG31.html
It's designed for use with an HL Panzer IV, but I'm sure it could be modified for use with a Tamiya lower.
http://www.profiline-models.com/Jagd...70-VENG31.html
It's designed for use with an HL Panzer IV, but I'm sure it could be modified for use with a Tamiya lower.
#3
Would love to follow a build like that.
I found this on tube a while back, really cool model. I tried asking him, but he was porly in English, so I only got ou of him that the sound unit was somewhat home made and the tank was a mixed model. I also told him to turn of the fan in the next video.... ;-)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGipHAEkYRE
I found this on tube a while back, really cool model. I tried asking him, but he was porly in English, so I only got ou of him that the sound unit was somewhat home made and the tank was a mixed model. I also told him to turn of the fan in the next video.... ;-)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGipHAEkYRE
#4
So the profiline kits nice but won't fit the tamiya chassis properly as its too wide (can probably be reworked). The best route is wait for the asiatam pziv metal lower hull and use that. Theres also a site called panzer parts that does a resin and metal conversion kit for about 100 euros.
#5
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I have built the Profiline kit on HL chassis. The kit is fine and detailed but it is mainly thought for static display, has no metal parts, the barrel is resin and not hollow, the hull structure is tricky to adapt to the lower hull. A LOT of work has to be put into the kit to make it fully R/C,
I would therefore suggest to go with the Panzerparts kit, coupled with the oncoming PzIV metal hull by Asiatam, as Tomhugill said.
I have built the Panzerparts Su76i kit and it was much better than the Profiline one towards R/C use (metal and recoiling hollow barrel, choice of 2 variants, etc.).
I would therefore suggest to go with the Panzerparts kit, coupled with the oncoming PzIV metal hull by Asiatam, as Tomhugill said.
I have built the Panzerparts Su76i kit and it was much better than the Profiline one towards R/C use (metal and recoiling hollow barrel, choice of 2 variants, etc.).
#6
The Profiline kit is beautifully cast, but as Borealis mentioned, it'll take some work. The barrel is easily replaced with existing K&S brass tube so you could have a spot for flash and IR. I had a HL hull and the kit all ready to go, but just didn't want to spend the time on it after converting the StuG.
It can definitely make a nice kit with appropriate amount of time and money.
It can definitely make a nice kit with appropriate amount of time and money.
#7
What I like about the Profiline kit is the availablity of extras from www.tank-modellbau.de. They provide a metal barrel that allows for recoil and elevation and also a schurzen option. I assume by the Panzerparts kit you guys are referring to www.panzerparts.com ? I like the panzerparts option as it is cheaper, but how is the quality? Is it pretty complete or what else is needed to complete? Does anybody know the timeframe on availabilty for the asiatam lower?
#8
Hi Guys,
I have just started on the Panzer Parts L70 from Peter. My first attempt at working with a resin kit conversion. It is a little crude and I can see lots of work with it but the price is right and has lots of detail parts. By the time all was said and done cost me just under $200 to get it here to Kitchener, Ontario, Canada. I looked at the Profiline kit and yes, it does have a few more bits but the price and the barrel were the drawbacks. I intend to make mine an IR fighting vehicle so the barrel was important...
I have just started on the Panzer Parts L70 from Peter. My first attempt at working with a resin kit conversion. It is a little crude and I can see lots of work with it but the price is right and has lots of detail parts. By the time all was said and done cost me just under $200 to get it here to Kitchener, Ontario, Canada. I looked at the Profiline kit and yes, it does have a few more bits but the price and the barrel were the drawbacks. I intend to make mine an IR fighting vehicle so the barrel was important...
#9
I was lucky to snag Ausf's Profiline JagdPanzer IV l/70 and have already cut the flash and pour plugs off the resin parts. The real work will be the cuts that need to be made on the HL upper hull and lower hull to mate the Jagd's fighting compartment to the upper hull so it will fit the lower hull. The engine deck needs to be modified as well as the HL upper hull is not correct. On the Panzer IV the engine deck should slope down slightly from the back of the Jagd's fighting compartment. If you used the Tamiya upper hull for this you wouldn't have to make the correction. I have considered buying that part. But in reality it is not that tough a fix. It's the old issue of time v.s. money. I had considered the Tank-Modellbau parts for the gun as well, but I want traverse as well and after seeing what a few guys have done here with micro-servos I am going to use the resin kit parts modified with brass and aluminum tubing. I have seen a YouTube of a guy who used the Tamiya full option Panzer IV as the basis for his JagdPanzer IV L/70 conversion and he used the Profiline kit. I will try to find it again and add it here.
#10
I am waiting on some parts from Freaky to finish my Lowe, then I will start my E-100 Juwa/Tamiya KT project, but I keep coming back to this little gem. I blame WOT as I love playing the JP IV L/70. I looked at the cost of a tammy upper and man I would cringe cutting that hull up, not so much the HL. Come on guys, do a build and document here so no talent peeps like me can follow along and learn how its done! Anybody have any intel on the asiatam lower?
#12
Nice JagdPanzer IV L/70 !!!!
#13
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Pictures of mine (based on Profiline kit). Please note that several details are scratchbuilt and not included in the kit (e.g. hatch hinges).
One thing that pissed me off a bit was that the rear schurtzen were not actually in the kit, just a paper mask to self-cut them from a sheet of styrene (not included).
One thing that pissed me off a bit was that the rear schurtzen were not actually in the kit, just a paper mask to self-cut them from a sheet of styrene (not included).
Last edited by borealis; 11-17-2013 at 01:20 AM.
#14
Here too. I didn't even get the paper template. I didn't mind that so much since it's easy enough to make, but it shouldn't be in the photo. The other thing was the two pairs of steel wheels in the photo, but at least I asked before I purchase, so I wasn't expecting them.
#15
For the price of that kit, you would think they would include those pieces. I think the Panzerparts kit includes them, or at least the picture looks like it...Does anybody know exactly what that kit includes?
#16
Pictures of mine (based on Profiline kit). Please note that several details are scratchbuilt and not included in the kit (e.g. hatch hinges).
One thing that pissed me off a bit was that the rear schurtzen were not actually in the kit, just a paper mask to self-cut them from a sheet of styrene (not included).
One thing that pissed me off a bit was that the rear schurtzen were not actually in the kit, just a paper mask to self-cut them from a sheet of styrene (not included).
#17
His casting is so well done and the amount of resin used in the kit, it really is a bargain for the price.
#18
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Top hatches hinges were not there, had to build them myself. The donor was a HL lower hull.
Since I remember now that it was required to cut and reshape the front of the hull, maybe a metal lower would make this step difficult....
P.S: another note to take into account for the overall costs of this conversion: you will need the low profile mato gearboxes for this project.
Since I remember now that it was required to cut and reshape the front of the hull, maybe a metal lower would make this step difficult....
P.S: another note to take into account for the overall costs of this conversion: you will need the low profile mato gearboxes for this project.
Last edited by borealis; 11-17-2013 at 11:46 PM.
#20
Wow!!! Go FreakyDude. Looks good. Did you use a Panther barrel?
#21
Join Date: Aug 2011
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Maus exactly what I did, just cut it down a bit and it looks really sweet. As an Fyi I am using an Taigen recoil pulled to the back of the upper hull so I can get the full range of motion for the cannon. Plus the Taigen works so dang good with Clark board.
#22
That is what I have been thinking about doing. Using a Panther barrel. I have an extra one. What lower hull did you use, HL or Taigen?