Turnigy 9X withTk-22
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Turnigy 9X withTk-22
Hello folks.
I'm hoping someone can help me.
I have the mentioned set up in the subject field. I got them from immortal hobbies. The 9X comes loaded with the..programming that shifts some of the control inputs onto the switches on the body of the controller.
However, nothing is working. The tank doesn't respond. Has anyone got any experience with this kind of set up and what might be wrong?
The transmitter and receiver are paired.
The connectors into the receiver are all fitted properly (all exposed contacts face towards channel 1)
The wiring sequence is correct- TK to receiver: CH1 to CH4, CH2 to CH3, CH3 to CH2 and CH4 to CH1.
I can hear the current flowing through the speaker.
All trims are central
All connections into the TK are solid and the right way around.
The jumper for the SW is in place.
I cannot get any movement, sound or reaction at all.
I have done the typical man thing of 'press any button to make it work' but only between the profiles (4 of) and maybe changed a template by accident (7 templates to each profile).
I presume the board is OK if I can hear an electrical buzzing from the speaker. I'm thinking that it is a small issue between lining up the right profile to the right template setting. When I turn the controller on, I am faced with a picture of a tank with my name in the bottom left corner. I presume that this means any programming that was put into the controller is still there?
I am waiting to have a Skype conversation with FreakyDude when he is available for one. Hopefully in the mean time I can find out more or rectify the issue.
Thank you for your time.
I'm hoping someone can help me.
I have the mentioned set up in the subject field. I got them from immortal hobbies. The 9X comes loaded with the..programming that shifts some of the control inputs onto the switches on the body of the controller.
However, nothing is working. The tank doesn't respond. Has anyone got any experience with this kind of set up and what might be wrong?
The transmitter and receiver are paired.
The connectors into the receiver are all fitted properly (all exposed contacts face towards channel 1)
The wiring sequence is correct- TK to receiver: CH1 to CH4, CH2 to CH3, CH3 to CH2 and CH4 to CH1.
I can hear the current flowing through the speaker.
All trims are central
All connections into the TK are solid and the right way around.
The jumper for the SW is in place.
I cannot get any movement, sound or reaction at all.
I have done the typical man thing of 'press any button to make it work' but only between the profiles (4 of) and maybe changed a template by accident (7 templates to each profile).
I presume the board is OK if I can hear an electrical buzzing from the speaker. I'm thinking that it is a small issue between lining up the right profile to the right template setting. When I turn the controller on, I am faced with a picture of a tank with my name in the bottom left corner. I presume that this means any programming that was put into the controller is still there?
I am waiting to have a Skype conversation with FreakyDude when he is available for one. Hopefully in the mean time I can find out more or rectify the issue.
Thank you for your time.
#4
Will follow this one , have a 9x and a Clark myself ( I got some help from Freaky wia mail thanks :-) ) But have put it aside to finish some other stuff , but now the KV is back on track and setting up the Clark/9x is due soon. Keep us posted GR1.
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did you put the jumper in the small connector near the Fets? that's the one I forgot... I just unplugged my smoker switch and plugged it there lol Other than that...yeah...could be everything is plugged wrong way... I had that too, it's not easy because it's not written on the receiver...and even if you are plugged backward, the light still turn red on the receiver (weird)
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Will be having a Skype conversation tonight, but have had a little bit of luck.
I plugged the smoke unit into the SW port for the jumper and the tank made some noise and moved a bit. The canon sound played, the tank recoiled a bit and the engine started and ran at idle. The smoker started running It hasn't done that every time though. More often than not turning it all back on resulted in nothing happening. Although the smoker is now useless as the crappy soldering on its power lead has broken. So I have used the smoker on/off switch.
So some progress.
PS: I really do like this auto save feature. I would have had to retype all this otherwise!
I plugged the smoke unit into the SW port for the jumper and the tank made some noise and moved a bit. The canon sound played, the tank recoiled a bit and the engine started and ran at idle. The smoker started running It hasn't done that every time though. More often than not turning it all back on resulted in nothing happening. Although the smoker is now useless as the crappy soldering on its power lead has broken. So I have used the smoker on/off switch.
So some progress.
PS: I really do like this auto save feature. I would have had to retype all this otherwise!
#8
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GR
First IF you had any sound or movement when you plugged the smoker into port SW then you need to get a JST XH 2 pin plug and put it in there OR just use a standard computer jumper. I recently had an issue where a guy used a broken jumper and we couldn't figure it out. I mean I didn't think jumpers broke but they do.
your issue is the board is not getting power ergo no response. I suggest you look at the power switch as well, if there is a short or the wires are not connected more than likel;y that is the issue.
Let me know how things turn up.
First IF you had any sound or movement when you plugged the smoker into port SW then you need to get a JST XH 2 pin plug and put it in there OR just use a standard computer jumper. I recently had an issue where a guy used a broken jumper and we couldn't figure it out. I mean I didn't think jumpers broke but they do.
your issue is the board is not getting power ergo no response. I suggest you look at the power switch as well, if there is a short or the wires are not connected more than likel;y that is the issue.
Let me know how things turn up.
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Yeah.. I got a computer jumper to replace the smoker switch I used (not that i'll use the smoker anyway) it will eliminate a problem source if something like this ever happen... Maybe rebind the remote as well! I dont know if there is a place we can add a led to show us that the board have power? that was one of the question I was asking myself before I figured out that all my plugs were reversed on the receiver (freakin chinese stuff,,,they work but they could at least put some indications to tell us how to plug them
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Hello all again.
Still no joy.
I have put a hard drive jumper on and have tried another cable and switch. I still get the same result. Turning it on does nothing still. The transmitter and receiver pair straight way, but still no reaction from the tank. If I quickly flick the switch off and then back on again then the engine start up sound plays and then continues to idle. Sometime, not all the time, the motors will kick for the cannon recoil and then the engines sounds will start. I have given all the connections a wiggle and can't see anything wrong with the contacts. The FET's are not touching each other.
Would any particular photographs be any help at all?
Is there a chance the receiver has become damaged and unresponsive/ sending out a false signal? All trim adjusters on the controller are central.
Thanks
Kye
Still no joy.
I have put a hard drive jumper on and have tried another cable and switch. I still get the same result. Turning it on does nothing still. The transmitter and receiver pair straight way, but still no reaction from the tank. If I quickly flick the switch off and then back on again then the engine start up sound plays and then continues to idle. Sometime, not all the time, the motors will kick for the cannon recoil and then the engines sounds will start. I have given all the connections a wiggle and can't see anything wrong with the contacts. The FET's are not touching each other.
Would any particular photographs be any help at all?
Is there a chance the receiver has become damaged and unresponsive/ sending out a false signal? All trim adjusters on the controller are central.
Thanks
Kye
#16
I think I may see one issue in your pics. Your power connection from battery to board. I have a WSN T-34/85 which I modded to take a clark board and I used a slightly minuscule different plug to the power port and when I tried to fire up nothing would happen and then engine would start and stop by it'self. I could hear things clicking and sometimes lights would come on but no movement or turret rotation. I started tracing things I could think of and after about 2 hours I noticed like your pic my power plug was just slightly up higher on one side than it should be so I started playing with it and discovered it the plug just wasn't quite seated properly in the board and when I wiggled it to certain positions it would actually work for a second or 2 with movement and turret rotation. So after fiddling with it for a bit I decided to replace the female plug end and viola! Everything works fine now but I do keep an eye on it!
Hopefully this works for you because trust me, I am a newbie at this and it is frustrating when you think you have everything right and it should be working! Good Luck!
Hopefully this works for you because trust me, I am a newbie at this and it is frustrating when you think you have everything right and it should be working! Good Luck!
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Hiya.
I'll break out the soldering iron tomorrow, but giving the current cable a wiggle didn't cause the tank to kick into life past what I am already experiencing. I assume that the power is ok as the LED on the receiver comes on (or blinks briefly without the transmitter turned on) and the speaker squeaks when it receives current. Everything else happens when I do as I described above.
I'll give your tip a try tomorrow though. I have found a connector with slightly smaller connector holes so that may do something. I'll report back .
I'll break out the soldering iron tomorrow, but giving the current cable a wiggle didn't cause the tank to kick into life past what I am already experiencing. I assume that the power is ok as the LED on the receiver comes on (or blinks briefly without the transmitter turned on) and the speaker squeaks when it receives current. Everything else happens when I do as I described above.
I'll give your tip a try tomorrow though. I have found a connector with slightly smaller connector holes so that may do something. I'll report back .
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Hello folks
The transmitter and receiver are paired.
The connectors into the receiver are all fitted properly (all exposed contacts face towards channel 1)
The wiring sequence is correct- TK to receiver: CH1 to CH4, CH2 to CH3, CH3 to CH2 and CH4 to CH1.
I can hear the current flowing through the speaker.
All trims are central
All connections into the TK are solid and the right way around.
The jumper for the SW is in place.
The transmitter and receiver are paired.
The connectors into the receiver are all fitted properly (all exposed contacts face towards channel 1)
The wiring sequence is correct- TK to receiver: CH1 to CH4, CH2 to CH3, CH3 to CH2 and CH4 to CH1.
I can hear the current flowing through the speaker.
All trims are central
All connections into the TK are solid and the right way around.
The jumper for the SW is in place.
I see you have plugged all the cables in wrong way. CH1 should be on Channel 1 (RX), 2 on 2, 3 on 3, and 4 on 4
I use Acro Profile (Acrobat with Airplane profile picture) on my Turnigy 9X and use MODE 1 (STICK SET) for precision driving (Throttle on the left stick, turn (aileron) on the right stick, Fire main gun (elevator) on the right stick, Turret rotation (rudder) on the left stick)
For battling/ action I use MODE 2
make sure modulation in PPM
Last edited by julescrafter; 02-25-2014 at 02:22 AM.
#21
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julescrafter this radio is programmed with tanker9x, the issues you suggest will not help. It isn't a radio issue, thanks for trying to help though
I have clark TK22 and Turnigy 9X too,
I see you have plugged all the cables in wrong way. CH1 should be on Channel 1 (RX), 2 on 2, 3 on 3, and 4 on 4
I use Acro Profile (Acrobat with Airplane profile picture) on my Turnigy 9X and use MODE 1 (STICK SET) for precision driving (Throttle on the left stick, turn (aileron) on the right stick, Fire main gun (elevator) on the right stick, Turret rotation (rudder) on the left stick)
For battling/ action I use MODE 2
make sure modulation in PPM
I see you have plugged all the cables in wrong way. CH1 should be on Channel 1 (RX), 2 on 2, 3 on 3, and 4 on 4
I use Acro Profile (Acrobat with Airplane profile picture) on my Turnigy 9X and use MODE 1 (STICK SET) for precision driving (Throttle on the left stick, turn (aileron) on the right stick, Fire main gun (elevator) on the right stick, Turret rotation (rudder) on the left stick)
For battling/ action I use MODE 2
make sure modulation in PPM
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#23
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yeah..from the pics you showed me, I didnt saw anything plugged wrongly...but the sound dont really mean anything as the tank can drive around with no sound...the sound only come when you start the engine...I know I had trouble binding the remote with the receiver, everything looked correctly and nothing worked...I found a video on Youtube that showed me how to do it correctly...might not be the problem for the 9x, but I had to hold the bind button on the remote before I turn it on...
#24
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Hiya.
I don't suppose you can provide a link to that video can you? No harm in watching it.
I'm still no further forward with it all. The contacts are sound on the board. I'm wondering if it might be a dodgy receiver.
It's all quite complicated really.
I don't suppose you can provide a link to that video can you? No harm in watching it.
I'm still no further forward with it all. The contacts are sound on the board. I'm wondering if it might be a dodgy receiver.
It's all quite complicated really.