twoplanekid

Time is short as the battles will start this Saturday. And,as I have not yet received guidance from IMEX, I would ask my fellow tankers for some help with two issues.

I received a new Tiger 1 metal IR tank (TAG120310 from IMEX that ran fine for 2 seconds before the idler wheel mounting attachment broke.They did send me the replacement part but with no instructions on the easy way to install it on the tank. Tank picture one shows the defective part still installed. The shaft has to be removed or the side of the tank removed. The second tank picture shows the part that needs to be installed inside the tank and then fitted to the idler wheel. Taigen/IMEX has not given me any schematics or part removal instructions for any of their tanks. The TAG 120501 3 in 1manual might have the instructions I need. I just don’t have one in stock.

My other issue is I need the correct part number for the gears that will fit the Panther Ausf. G (TAG13011). IMEX has sent me three gear sets (TAG120268,264,024), that do not fit this tank. As they don’t seem to know,I am hoping someone out there might know what fits.

All help is greatly appreciated as I try to have more tanks available for the first tank battle day in Urbana, Ohio this coming Saturday.

Thanks,

Rick

cleong

Try reading Steps 1 through 3 of the Tamiya Tiger I manual - the idler adjustment looks similar:

https://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/56010ml.pdf

MAUS45

I think the tamiya instructions will help along with the notes I made to your photo. Just keep in mind you will be moving the idler axle over to the left based on the photo so you can remove and replace the defective part. Just click on the photo to make it large enough to read the notes I added,

Strato50

Those asiatam idlers are a good setup, but they can be a pain to install & remove.

For the HL Jag G, you need the middle-mounted 'low profile' gears with long 58mm shafts. The clincher here is is that you can't get the low ratio 4:1 gears in that configuration; you'll have 'regular' HL ratio gears in a TD that would benefit from being able to pivot in rough terrain.

Here's what will fit your tank: http://www.rctank.de/Steel-Gearboxes...tal-lower-hull

The Panther doesn't have the extra posts to mount either style of HL-type gearboxes, like some others do.

Anyhoo, I've also seen Mato 3:1 gearboxes and Walterson's installed in the Panther. You'll get nicer reductions out of those if you desire so

Imex-Erik

Ok the 268 and 24 was Mr. Marty's fault for not asking me. I would further direct your tech questions to myself first. My email is [email protected] and I try to check as often as I can. Tuesday and yesterday have been completely busy for me and I promise you will be getting a call from me in the next few minutes to follow up. Anyways, the rear idler torsion bar is a tricky one, but I will walk you through it. I do need to make a video on that one, that will be my first project once I get back from the Southeastern Model Show in Perry, GA. I am actually leaving around noon today.
First, remove the idler wheels and detach the arms from the torsion bar. Unscrew the latch assembly to open the top hull. Then unscrew the nuts from the top of the idler tensioner screws (the long ones). Carefully unscrew the long screws to about the half way point. You can now pull out the torsion bar by flexing the hull A LITTLE BIT. Then you can just replace the idler arm holders and reverse the process to put them back on. Shouldn't take more than 10-15 for the first time. I'll call and walk you through it.
The gearboxes I am thinking are correct, you might have an issue with the wheel. I just tried a few of them and they all fit my 13011. From what I got from Marty (haha) is that the shaft itself was too big, is it just a hair or a large chunk? Do all three of the gearboxes' shafts not fit the wheel? It is probably best if we replace the drive wheel. I will get one out today before I leave.
Here is the link to the Tiger 1 kit manual: http://www.imex-model.com/TANK%20MAN.../TAG12501.html
Please excuse me for my delayed response, my last two days have been super hectic around here. I will be calling you shortly.

Strato50

Erik, I know for sure that every single Taigen gearbox I've installed so far, 4:1 and regular, needs to have the flat spot on the drive shaft shaved down a bit to fit regular sprockets.

Made the mistake once of forcing one onto a PnzIV... had to spend 20 minutes with a hammer and a punch to remove it >

Imex-Erik

[QUOTE=Strato50;11747084]Erik, I know for sure that every single Taigen gearbox I've installed so far, 4:1 and regular, needs to have the flat spot on the drive shaft shaved down a bit to fit regular sprockets.

Made the mistake once of forcing one onto a PnzIV... had to spend 20 minutes with a hammer and a punch to remove it >

Strato50

Yea with HL sprockets for the most part. Panzer 3 & 4, Tiger for sure & the HL T-34 all needed a shave :P

Last year building my KV-2 with the metal hull & asiatam sprockets I don't think I needed to though.

Imex-Erik

You scared me for a sec there, I was about to flip haha. I am still going to go through some random gearboxes to make sure everything is ok though on Monday.

twoplanekid

I do believe that what I replaced is the most difficult part to replace on a RC tank. I want to thank everyone who responded to my call for help. Your ideas and suggestions helped. The next time I should be able to improve upon my 2 plus hours consumed to replace the part.

The first thing that I learned was it’s so much easier to remove the tracks at the start of the process. Then one should remove the rear wall. Because of the excess paint on the parts and because part of a part blocked the removal of the shaft, I removed everything that was connected to the part to be replaced.

Eric suggested that I replace both sides as the replacement parts are beefier and should not break as often as the original. As I never want to do this again, I replaced both sides with new parts.

I now know that I should secure the rear wall before tracks are installed. Also need to look for pulled wires as my IR flasher was pulled too far into the gun barrel.

It’s now ready for the tank battles on Saturday. As far as the Panther is concerned, Erik is helping with a solution.

I guess Erik was as busy as I was trying to get things ready. I owe many people a piece of pie at the Airport Café.

Please stop and say hello,
Rick