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  1. #1
    mcovalsk's Avatar
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    KV-1 & Jadgpanther full option problems

    I bought a Heng Long KV-1 and Jagdpanther with full IR option, metal gears, tracks…etc.
    I realized that the standard suspension can’t support the weight of the model. I was working on the KV-1 rear suspension and got a better tension but still is very soft.
    The Jagd is worst, the front doesn’t support the weight.

    Somebody have had this problem and which was the way fixed it.
    Thanks in advance.
    Mario Covalski
    Editor Modelersite

  2. #2

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    Chung-Leong

    Current tanks:
    Tamiya Tiger I, Pershing, Panther G, Leopard 2A6 and KV-1

    Club affiliations:
    The Singapore (SG) Tankies Facebook Page:
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/sgtankies/
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    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/queenspanzergroup/

    AAF Tank Museum member #131329-25

  3. #3
    mcovalsk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleong View Post
    You need Asiatam chassis upgrades:
    Could you tell me something I don't know... and cheap LOL LOL
    Mario Covalski
    Editor Modelersite

  4. #4

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    They make an upgraded stronger spring set for both of those models. Each one has had the same problem. too weak a spring for the weight of the model. This is a known common problem on both.
    Tamiya Panther G, HL/Tamiya TigerI, WSN/HL T-34/85, WSN/Tamiya T-34/85, WSN/HL DBCRC2 T-34/85, HL/Tamiya Pershing, Mato/Tamiya Sherman,HL KV-1, HL Pz III, HL/Custom scratch JP, HE/Tamiya Abrams, HE/Tamiya LEO 2A5, Vs Abrams M1A1, Vs T-72, HL Bergepanthe

  5. #5
    mcovalsk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther G View Post
    They make an upgraded stronger spring set for both of those models. Each one has had the same problem. too weak a spring for the weight of the model. This is a known common problem on both.
    Ah Ok I will look for them
    Thanks!!!!!!
    Mario Covalski
    Editor Modelersite

  6. #6

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    Did you try clocking them forward to create more tension? I used stock springs on my Lowe, which is VERY heavy. I simply drilled a new hole forward a few degrees and it worked like a charm....
    Tamiya-King Tiger (H), Tiger, Pershing, Sherman, Panther G, PZIV, Leopard 2A6. Hybrid Tamiya/Matorro-Jagdtiger, Sturmtiger. Taigen-PZIII (metal). Hooben-Elefant. In the works-Lowe and E-100

  7. #7
    MAUS45's Avatar
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    Like Cruiser133 said you can try clocking the existing springs or get the stronger springs.I think rctank.de carries the stronger springs?
    Last edited by MAUS45; 02-26-2014 at 09:10 PM.
    Tamiya Tiger I, Tiger II, Panther G, 3 HL Stug III G, 1 HL Panzer III M, 1 HL Jagdpanzer IV L/70, 1 R/C Armory 1/8 Tiger II

  8. #8
    Captain Nemo12's Avatar
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    I had the same problem when I was building my Panther, I got it from one of the newer HL production batches and the stock springs were pre-clocked from the factory. With metal tracks on, the weight increased significantly and the stock pre-clocked springs couldn't elevate the hull once they were compressed. You could experiment and tighten the stock springs until the desired force is achieved, but I'm not sure if you want to install and remove 16 interleaved roadwheels and their suspension arms over and over again!

    Personally I simply paid the 10 Euros and got some stronger Asiatam springs from Welshdragon.
    In the works: 1/16 T-34/85, Type VIIb U-boat, 1/72 USS Skipjack

  9. #9
    mcovalsk's Avatar
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    I realized that in the hull there are two holes for each arm, and the spring were placed in the easy one, just to make the build faster. I reclocked to the second one and the suspension improved a lot.
    The springs the models provide are stronger than the regular one so I think is just a problem of setup. I will make an extra hole and try from there, if doesn’t work then will go for the Asiatam ones as you suggested.
    Thanks my friend I appreciate the help and comments.
    Mario Covalski
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  10. #10
    Strato50's Avatar
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    Using the reclocked holes works very well. Just remember there is a limit to how far they will go; if you go too far when the spring coils up it will jam against the suspension arm and it will get stuck..!

    Don't ask how I know...

    Also you can experiment with clocking the first and last suspension only so that the middle wheels move more with uneven ground, while the front & rear hold more weight. You might notice the tank drives better
    CAN-AM Rc Tank Club - Tiger I * Panzer IV * Panzer III * Chi Nu Kai * Stug III-G **** KV-2 * Pershing * T-34/85 * M4A1 Sherman * SU-76i

    Clark board wizard. I can fix it!

  11. #11
    mcovalsk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strato50 View Post
    Using the reclocked holes works very well. Just remember there is a limit to how far they will go; if you go too far when the spring coils up it will jam against the suspension arm and it will get stuck..!
    Don't ask how I know...
    Also you can experiment with clocking the first and last suspension only so that the middle wheels move more with uneven ground, while the front & rear hold more weight. You might notice the tank drives better
    Yes you are right with the first and last, I tried with the M45 I'm building and work smoothly and realistic.
    I will not ask how you know....that. I have a closet plenty of models that didn't get and ashamed me LOL LOL

    By the way I'm pretty surprised of the good the KV-1 and Jadg are. Having in account I got the full options, including the IR receiver and paid US$179 they were a good deal. Metal anywhere, good quality plastic with outstanding details, I think that working a little on the gearboxes, barrel recoil and adding some PE, good light and a good painting weathering already you would get a fantastic and massive tank model. I love Tamiya but my wallet ( paying 50% tax also) said no more.
    Mario Covalski
    Editor Modelersite

  12. #12
    YHR's Avatar
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    As others have mentioned reclocking the existing springs is the cheapest fix. I have done this many times and it works, without having to spend any money.

    We hope to see pictures of these soon


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