Clark tk KV test drive. Not so smooth ( video)
#1
Thread Starter
Clark tk KV test drive. Not so smooth ( video)
Allright folks. what ya think . can it be the motors ore the gearboxes in the kv ( 3/1)
I feel the kv to be somewhat 'jerky'
the 'turning' Clip all endpoints are at 100%. first section of the clip when driving back and forth I have all to 60%.(thr + steering) Same settings in the tiger, just swopped all into it ( uses black motors + 3/1 ) . But it drives so much more smooth. And at the end tamiya..no comments needed . So can it be the motors, gerboxes ore what ?
radio 9x With tanker
( sorry about the sound at first)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IY_nGxDrMsg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IY_nGxDrMsg
I feel the kv to be somewhat 'jerky'
the 'turning' Clip all endpoints are at 100%. first section of the clip when driving back and forth I have all to 60%.(thr + steering) Same settings in the tiger, just swopped all into it ( uses black motors + 3/1 ) . But it drives so much more smooth. And at the end tamiya..no comments needed . So can it be the motors, gerboxes ore what ?
radio 9x With tanker
( sorry about the sound at first)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IY_nGxDrMsg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IY_nGxDrMsg
#3
May just wanna do a bench test with tracks off and see how sprockets are responding to throttle movements. Keep an eye on the motor pinion movement to see if it's maybe motors or
bum gearboxes with too much slop.
bum gearboxes with too much slop.
Last edited by TheBennyB; 04-11-2014 at 03:48 PM.
#5
Sollie I've had issue, my tk-22 pan I found to be quite jerky compared to tamiya and even taigen electronics. Gabby kV tracks are supposed to have some slack and they're not really binding, similar thing happens on my German tanks with slack tracks and they run fine.
Sollie maybe do a video with tamiya electronics a in the kv2 to make it a faoir test!
Sollie maybe do a video with tamiya electronics a in the kv2 to make it a faoir test!
#7
Thread Starter
i did tighten up the tracks, but they are, as mentioned not 100 % liking the metal sprocket they dont grip all the way round the . I would like to have 1 more link for the 'kv sag' , but that combine with the jerky forward back wards movement made it look silly. I will report back later when I have Inspected more . could be the motors , since the tiger has the same 3/1 tu's ( both brand New YHR ) and they are noise as hell , still after oil and 1 h each back and fort running in .
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Grande Prairie,
AB, CANADA
Posts: 8,976
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
What brand of gear box are you using? I never trust new gear boxes. If these are brass with variable ratio gears rotating on the same shaft, you might need to disassemble and use some emery cloth on the shaft. Although typically if this is a problem they will just seize up. From the video I would be looking at the gear mesh. It looks to me like you have some gear slop there. Almost to the point where it looks like one of the gear axles maybe not properly engaging the bushing on the gear tower, and pops out of place. I would not blame the electronics. This seems to be a mechanical thing.
#9
Yeah, I would take it all apart and check everything individually. Sounds more like a bad gear/gears and also could be a lack of lube/grease on one of the shafts too.
Jeff
Jeff
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Samutprakarn, THAILAND
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think the gear has to be a problem. Gear teeth meshing together could be bad. this is my tank
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tryussV6-5Y http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhNLAthOvVk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tryussV6-5Y http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhNLAthOvVk
#11
I agree, definitely something going on with the gears...I'd really check the gear mesh and that everything is lined up. Id run it with the tracks off and the sprockets on, and see how true the sprockets are running
Last edited by DirtyBird69; 04-12-2014 at 05:44 AM.
#12
I took apart an IMPACT gearbox and the ALL the shafts had corrosion on them, probably from not having some kind of assembly lube or grease and exposed to moisture.
Once this was cleaned and polished, all gears lapped and smooth the gearbox was as smooth as a clock. Not quiet like Tamiya but much better than just soaking the thing in oil or breaking them in submerged in oil.
You gotta take them apart to know for sure.
Jeff
Once this was cleaned and polished, all gears lapped and smooth the gearbox was as smooth as a clock. Not quiet like Tamiya but much better than just soaking the thing in oil or breaking them in submerged in oil.
You gotta take them apart to know for sure.
Jeff
#14
Run them on a DC battery to see if they act the same outside the tank... before you tear them down.
You need to isulate the problem first. I've seen pinion gears drilled off-center acting exactly like yours is doing.
Jeff
You need to isulate the problem first. I've seen pinion gears drilled off-center acting exactly like yours is doing.
Jeff
#16
I looks like you don't have many capacitors soldered on the motor terminals (in the video). Try adding one connected to the motor can and the + terminal, and the other from the motor can to - terminal. They should help reduce the RF noise you're experiencing. Like so:
Last edited by Captain Nemo12; 04-12-2014 at 03:50 PM.
#17
That sounds more like bushing/bearing noise to me. Add a drop of oil to each end of the shaft.
Most of those Promax motors have internal caps installed.
A poor sprocket/track mesh can be the culprit.
Jeff
Most of those Promax motors have internal caps installed.
A poor sprocket/track mesh can be the culprit.
Jeff
#18
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Cambridge ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,063
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just by listening to this KV1 I can tell you the pinion is off at an angle and it is grinding on the first gear. It actually sounds as if it is skipping on the gear teeth.
Look at the pinion gear, if it's tooth edges are rounded and not all the gear edges will be this is your culprit. Take the boxes out of the tank, loosen the screws that hold both sides together and spin the pinion with your finger, move the gear box sides slightly to re-align the pinion. when you don't feel any drag other than the posts tighten the screws up a bit and spin the pinion again. if it feels the same then tighten the screws as tight as you can get them,
Now once that is done you will need to realign the horizontal plane of the pinion, look at it and make sure that the full width of the pinion is in contact with the first gear, any angle will make that nasty noise you had. DO THIS PART GENTLY grab the motor and pull it up or push it down slightly to align the gears. It won't take much and don't be hercules, if you bend the motor side of the frame plate too far it will not bode well for a long gear life. It won't take much strength to budge it just a tiny bit.
Look at the pinion gear, if it's tooth edges are rounded and not all the gear edges will be this is your culprit. Take the boxes out of the tank, loosen the screws that hold both sides together and spin the pinion with your finger, move the gear box sides slightly to re-align the pinion. when you don't feel any drag other than the posts tighten the screws up a bit and spin the pinion again. if it feels the same then tighten the screws as tight as you can get them,
Now once that is done you will need to realign the horizontal plane of the pinion, look at it and make sure that the full width of the pinion is in contact with the first gear, any angle will make that nasty noise you had. DO THIS PART GENTLY grab the motor and pull it up or push it down slightly to align the gears. It won't take much and don't be hercules, if you bend the motor side of the frame plate too far it will not bode well for a long gear life. It won't take much strength to budge it just a tiny bit.
#19
I looks like you don't have many capacitors soldered on the motor terminals (in the video). Try adding one connected to the motor can and the + terminal, and the other from the motor can to - terminal. They should help reduce the RF noise you're experiencing. Like so:
Most motors now have these installed internally.
#20
I think the gear has to be a problem. Gear teeth meshing together could be bad. this is my tank
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tryussV6-5Y http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhNLAthOvVk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tryussV6-5Y http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhNLAthOvVk
Hey sugo, beautiful kv-2 there! What sprockets and tracks are you using? Did you have to make any modifications? I know several people who have issues with the asiatam metal kv tracks not meshing properly with the sprockets.
#21
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info. Here is a Clip on some of the stuff I did last night. Going to pop them out again later today and have a og at what you said Freaky.
Tom, the promax have caps on them .
taksinugo, you're kv runs great, mind sharing full setup as asked by Tom, share photos if you have , thanks :-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEQF79x3FHE&feature=youtu.be
Tom, the promax have caps on them .
taksinugo, you're kv runs great, mind sharing full setup as asked by Tom, share photos if you have , thanks :-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEQF79x3FHE&feature=youtu.be
#22
Sounds like the pinion gears are slipping on the spur gears. Did you make sure you have proper gear lash when you installed the pinions and motors. a different size pinion will make the motor need an adjustment in the gear box. A smaller pinion will need the motor moved closer to the gears a larger pinion will need them moved further away.
Since the motor mounts on the gear boxes are not adjustable what you need to do is slot them for different sized gears.
Since the motor mounts on the gear boxes are not adjustable what you need to do is slot them for different sized gears.
#23
Thread Starter
use the same gear as on the standar motors that came With the 4/1. pulled it of and installed it on the p max motor. The mesh should be fine. I used to race 1/10 touring cars , and know the mesh needs to be propper. On a side note, the tu's makes a hell of a rackle when driving , no way around it, hehe. need to turn up the volum way up.
#24
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: manville, NJ
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Had the same issue with my stugg... Found my drive sprockets had excessive run out both side to side and up and down
This would cause my tracks to bind on the teeth creating the same issue.. A few hundreths off and i had major issues. Replaced the drives.
Replaced bushings with bearings( used dynamite red sealed flanged) shimned gears( using team losi suspension shims and ofna clutch bell shim kits. And re adjusted my pinion to spur clearance. I also instalked bearings on output shafts( flanged secured with shoo goo.
Hope it helps!
This would cause my tracks to bind on the teeth creating the same issue.. A few hundreths off and i had major issues. Replaced the drives.
Replaced bushings with bearings( used dynamite red sealed flanged) shimned gears( using team losi suspension shims and ofna clutch bell shim kits. And re adjusted my pinion to spur clearance. I also instalked bearings on output shafts( flanged secured with shoo goo.
Hope it helps!
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Samutprakarn, THAILAND
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello Tomhugill , I use track and sprockets high grade from rctank.de in to the KV2 and polishing sprocket for KV1 and I used fully motor in to my tank.
Last edited by taksinsugo; 04-14-2014 at 07:44 PM.