fastrails

Finally decided to get into it. Picked up a these kits Tamiya 1/16 Leopard 2A6, and the Pershing. Below are the upgrades I have gotten and thinking about getting. Any other suggestions to make them more reliable, let me know? Thanks in advance.


Tamiay Leopard 2A6:
Tamiya Barrel Stabilizer
Ball Bearings
Impact Idler Arm
Impact Road Wheel Arms
Impact Metal Tracks

Panther F

One thing off the top of my head is to replace the Tamiya connectors with a better, more compact connector(s).






Jeff

fastrails

Thanks, will be using Dean connectors.

TheBennyB

Wouldn't worry about metal tracks for either of those tanks as the stock are nice. May want to look into the quick change gearbox plate and metal elevation arm for the Pershing which is offered at ETOarmor.com

Panther G

The quick change plate makes a big difference in the ease of installation on the Pershing. When I built mine I really could't see how you could fit them with out it. it can be done but why make it harder on yourself.

Panther F

The quick change gearbox plate for the Perhing costs about 38 bucks so unless you plan on getting it dirty inside (forcing you to clean it) that accessory is really not needed. Neither are replacement motors THAT IS... only if you plan to battle with it outside.

Metal tracks are not needed UNLESS you really have to have them. Both the Leopard and Pershing do not have track sag so metal is just an option.

Spending the money on a metal elevation arm (must have), better batteries and charger, bearings are the best bet when building them. You can always add metal tracks later. There are a lot of metal detail sets for these tanks that look a bit more scale and stand up to a little rough handling, PLUS the track adjusters for the Pershing are pretty nice.

I don't battle mine anymore or I would have them on my Pershing.


HTH


Jeff

fastrails

Does not have an image, but is this the part you're referring to? Thanks.

http://www.etoarmour.com/product_det...productID=DP03

modeltank

if you were referring to impact tracks at mitosal, the pershing metal tracks comes with free elevator arm

TheBennyB

Yup, that's it.

Panther F

It's a GREAT piece (like all of Daryls stuff is) just another tool in making our tanks easier to work on.





Jeff

fastrails

Thanks everyone. I am so read on some of the other forums and maybe on this one too, that people are using Lipo batteries with their DMD units. Is this true?

ausf

Yes, as long as it's a 2 cell.

Thing is, there's really little reason to. With tanks, most guys are trying to slow them down to scale speed with more torque, make then heavier for scale appearance and traction and usually don't have an issue with space. At the last NEAD event, two 4200 NiMH lasted all day.

With the additional costs and risks associated with lipo, it's not worth it in most tanks because the advantages don't translate to them. I use them in my Kettenkrad, Kubelwagen and will in my Schwimm and 38(t), but that's completely due to size constraints.

Unless you already have a stockpile of large lipos you use elsewhere (or intend to), you're better off with NiMH.

cleong

I run a mix of NiMH and LiPo. The LiPos exist for my Pershing and Leopard both which have space constraints. I usually use about 600+ MaH per battle in Danville (I move around quite a lot) so I usually go two, maximum three rounds and then I'd change packs, as I don't want to TKO myself due to running out of "fuel". You could argue that a lighter tank is faster to accelerate, but I can't really tell the difference. And when treated properly LiPo batteries aren't any more dangerous than NiMH in my opinion.

Jeff489

My Feedback: (12)

I use LiFePo4 (Lithium Iron) batteries. No fire risk, lighter than a Nimh, and most importantly...environmentally friendly. Cost is about the same as Nimh. A 4500 mha is about 25 bucks.

MAUS45

Jeff489, Where do you get your LifePo4 batteries?

Panther F

Yes... unless I get back into battling all the time my 5000 NiMH will do just fine.





Jeff

fastrails

I was thinking more on the size and weight side, since the two tanks I own are very space sensitive. What do you guys do about LVD for the Lipo? Do the DMD units have LVD built in.

ausf

Nope, Tamiya is a fan of NiCads. The Asian market kits are sold with Futaba TX/RX and battery included.

You either have to add your own LV alarm, which may be hard to hear in a battle, or use a timer.

I calculated my Kubel and Ketten full out run times down to 3.4 (25 min/850mAh/Ketten, 20 min/300mAh/Kubel), then programmed the Tx timer for each. The 38(t) setup has LVC included, which is nice.

TheBennyB

The tamilya DMD cuts out at 6V so killing a Lipo is definitely possible but hard to do. Still a good idea to check the Lipo voltages after a couple battles.