RC Tanks Discuss all aspects of rc tank building and driving here!

Tiger 1 (Early, Middle or Late...)

Reply
Old 07-25-2014, 02:24 PM
  #1
Augustus1967
Thread Starter
 
Augustus1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 365
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default Tiger 1 (Early, Middle or Late...)

Started work on a MatoMart HL Tiger...

Most of the Kit I've picked up so far is Early.
But it may wind up being a Mid Production Build.

Still plenty of time to change direction.

Got the Mato Metal running gear installed last night.
And tested today, runs great no problems.

Also began removing parts to be replaced with Upgrades.





-gus
Augustus1967 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2014, 02:28 PM
  #2
Augustus1967
Thread Starter
 
Augustus1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 365
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

I do have the Steel Gearboxes for the build.
But they need to be run in before installation.

Also, if you look close, the right track was not installed correctly.
Had to brake it back down and try again...

In the end I got it right.



-gus

Last edited by Augustus1967; 07-25-2014 at 02:32 PM.
Augustus1967 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2014, 09:49 PM
  #3
Markocaster
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: East bay CA
Posts: 273
Default

Early , mid , late ??? Simple 1 of each
it has early wheels so unless u want to buy late ones early or mid would be easiest
Markocaster is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2014, 10:45 PM
  #4
Augustus1967
Thread Starter
 
Augustus1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 365
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Indeed...

I hear ya.

It'll most likely stay Early... As most of the Parts I have gathered are Early...
Need to go ahead and choose a Subject/Victim to go for...
I'm thinking I would like to take this Tiger to the Desert.

Though I do intend to build at least one more Tiger.
The One bouncing around the back of my mind will have to wait for another Day.

I did get most everything stripped off the back of the Hull today,
still waiting on Matomart Exhaust, they are in transit.
Haven't made up my mind on the Air Cleaners and Fenders yet.

Have the Early Cupola and Hatch set for Turret along with the Driver and Bow Gunner (?) Hatches all metal.
Also picked up a replacement Main Gun from Artistic Hobbies.

Along with some other metal bits...

This will be my deepest dive into Modding/Upgrading to date.
And I'm looking forward to it.

As I've stated elsewhere, I will have to stay towards Durability over Detail...
My youngest Crew Member(3) is a Natural Kit Basher...



-gus

Last edited by Augustus1967; 07-25-2014 at 10:47 PM.
Augustus1967 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2014, 09:27 AM
  #5
philipat
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Okinawa, JAPAN
Posts: 2,731
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

For early and a little different, you could do a tank that fought on Sicily (sPzAbt 504 with the Herman Goerring Division) or one from Tigergruppe Meyer. The latter was a company with some unique markings. I think you can get stencils for both from rctank.de. Each used early Tigers. For mids, I'm partial to those that served in Italy.

Here's a starting point for determining units and where they served. http://www.fprado.com/armorsite/tigers.htm

Looks like it is coming along nicely. How about some more details and impressions of the Mato parts. Ball bearings in wheels? Good fits, or are they loose? Require any clean-up work on the parts?
philipat is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2014, 11:16 AM
  #6
Augustus1967
Thread Starter
 
Augustus1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 365
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

To this point I have added Mato Suspension.
Sprockets, Idlers, Swing Arms and Roadwheels, no Ball Bearings at All, and Metal Track.

So far I'm pretty Unimpressed:

The replacement Axel Screws (Mato) that connect the Swing Arms to the Hull are Very Soft (White Metal).
So Care is needed, so as not to strip out the Phillips Head or the Threads.
Also, those Axle Screws seem a touch Long, allowing a little Wiggle (slop) in the Swing Arms.
Think this may cause problems down the road in retaining the Coil Springs, that use Friction and Allignment to keep them in place.

Next the Hexhead Axel Screws that came with the Mato Roadwheels require a different size Hex Wrench.
Apparently I'm missing this size in Inches or metric, so I reused the Original Axel Screws.
The fit is pretty Fair.

The Mato Sprockets went on easy and Fit Well.
Very Little Slop.

The Idler Wheels were a bit difficult to install.
The screw pitch is different requiring a firm hand to get the screw all the way in.
once mounted they retained quite a bit of Slop (Wiggle).

The Mato Tracks look quite nice.
Laying them out next to the Original Plastic Tracks, they seemed One Track Block too Long.
So I removed one Block from each track and installed them.
After Proper installation they Seemed Very Tight, no Sag at all from the Idler Wheels to the Sprocket.
So I added the deleted Track Blocks back, one to each side.
Now they seem Extra Saggy.

I did a test run and wound up throwing a track, port side, running on short carpet...
During a Spin... No real surprise there, but it won't do.

I'll get a Photo up this afternoon...

-gus
Augustus1967 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2014, 12:41 PM
  #7
jarndice
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Hemel Hempstead,Hertfordshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 445
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Gus Hi, all appears to be going well, I always think one of the best things about this hobby is the amount of learning when researching a build. Now your Driver and Radio operators hatches, the two most commonly used are MATO and TAIGEN, I would always go for the TAIGEN simply because they are pre-assembled and after you have prepared the holes for them the locating pins are their ready waiting to fit in the holes in the hinges, the MATO hatches have a lot of self assembly and are more fragile in operation and it really is just a few cents between them, whatever, I am going to watch this build with great interest. shaun
jarndice is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2014, 01:23 PM
  #8
Augustus1967
Thread Starter
 
Augustus1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 365
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Hi Jarndice,

I hear ya...
Spent a Good bit of yesterday and last night reading up on Afrika Korps Tigers...
Learned a lot...
Now I can tell at a glance, Early Mid and Late Production...

Most of the Top Side Detail pieces l've picked up so far are Taigen from Artistic Hobbies.
I do like what I've seen from them so far.

-gus
Augustus1967 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 07:17 AM
  #9
philipat
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Okinawa, JAPAN
Posts: 2,731
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Good to know about the parts. Sounds like you need an idler adjuster. HennTec has one that you can get from rctank.de. Or, you would see what Taigen has already built. Those are a great functional upgrade.
philipat is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 10:02 AM
  #10
Augustus1967
Thread Starter
 
Augustus1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 365
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Yes Sir Philipat,

An adjustable Idler would be Ideal...
I've read the HennTec Idler set up is a good one, if a bit Pricey?

I am pretty much decided on not putting too much Cash/Effort into this Hull over all... As there is Much to change.
Thinking that it might be better in the end to pick up a Taigen Hull to build on, if it comes to that...

Here are photos, Port and Starboard, showing the Slack I was talking about earlier.
To my eye, and judging by my test run, I need to tighten them up.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2018021[/ATTACH]


[ATTACH=CONFIG]2018020[/ATTACH]

-gus
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20140728_122139.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	81.5 KB
ID:	2018020   Click image for larger version

Name:	20140728_122225.jpg
Views:	82
Size:	74.3 KB
ID:	2018021  

Last edited by Augustus1967; 07-28-2014 at 10:13 AM.
Augustus1967 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 10:32 AM
  #11
jarndice
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Hemel Hempstead,Hertfordshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 445
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Gus hallo, In an ideal world the track should come down on the third wheel from the sprocket, but when it comes to practicality's, you want it where it stays on but still carries some slack, sorry my friend like so much of this hobby it will be trial and error although the old saying " If it looks right it is right " has a lot of truth to it.Do remember you will cause damage if you remove all the slack. shaun
jarndice is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 10:45 AM
  #12
MAUS45
 
MAUS45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Old Hickory, TN
Posts: 2,460
Default

Gus, to make adjustments to the track tension you will need to upgrade to a Idler tension set. Right now Henn Tec makes a kit for the HL Tiger I. The only other option would be to get the upgraded lower hull from Imex.

Last edited by MAUS45; 07-28-2014 at 11:22 AM.
MAUS45 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 11:16 AM
  #13
Augustus1967
Thread Starter
 
Augustus1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 365
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

I hear ya Jarndice...

I'll get it figured out...
Hopefully without Breaking too much stuff...



Should be taking the Drivers hatches off next...
And the escape hatch on the Turret.

I Love Power Tools!

-gus
Augustus1967 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 11:22 AM
  #14
jarndice
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Hemel Hempstead,Hertfordshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 445
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Gus, You probably know this already, but when it comes to removing anything with power tools on the body of the Tank the first thing I do is cut DUCK TAPE to size and fit it around where I plan cutting/filing, it saves kicking the h*ll out out of the cat afterwards! shaun
jarndice is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 11:48 AM
  #15
Augustus1967
Thread Starter
 
Augustus1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 365
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jarndice View Post
Gus, You probably know this already, but when it comes to removing anything with power tools on the body of the Tank the first thing I do is cut DUCK TAPE to size and fit it around where I plan cutting/filing, it saves kicking the h*ll out out of the cat afterwards! shaun
No Sir,

I don't know that one...
Please do continue.



-gus
Augustus1967 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 12:35 PM
  #16
jarndice
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Hemel Hempstead,Hertfordshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 445
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Simply cut the tape to fit around the Hatches and this will allow you to abrade the surface without damaging the surrounding parts of the Tank body, How are you cutting out the Hatches? I use a step drill, they are not cheap and are dependent on a certain delicacy of use I would suggest a step drill above 28mm size about 30mm is about right, A tip, I would cut from the inside of the body outwards, do not push to hard as the plastic will melt and ruin the finish, once you have the hole too size you now need to lower the plastic immediately around the hole, the flatter the better the hatch will seat, but a small shoulder is no bad thing, this is where the Duck tape will pay off because a rasp or medium grit wet and dry paper is the way to make a seat for the hatch and with the tape protecting the surround you can put some effort in with out worrying about damaging your Tank body, Ain't this fun! shaun

Last edited by jarndice; 07-28-2014 at 12:55 PM.
jarndice is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 12:58 PM
  #17
Augustus1967
Thread Starter
 
Augustus1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 365
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Very Cool...

I will definitely give the Tape Idea a go.

Planning on drilling a series of holes, from the inside, then connecting them...
Then using Fine Rasps and Sand Paper to finish the Hatchways in the Upper Hull.

For the Turret I'm planning (at this point) to cut out the turret wall including the Escape Hatch.
Then replace with sheet styrene.
And finally mounting the second Pistol Port.

Haven't decided how I'll tackle the Bustle Box yet.
Other than than that I plan to go simple and use sheet styrene as well...
I may just add on to the existing box...

Thank You for your guidance and ideas.

-gus
Augustus1967 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 01:34 PM
  #18
Imex-Erik
 
Imex-Erik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Brooksville , FL
Posts: 2,405
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

I personally like the mid production builds. They always seem more customized than just plain early or late. Please excuse me as I'm not trying to sell you something, just help a bit....
Our metal hull comes with upgraded suspension arms. Ours are the type held in by a set screw on the suspension arm so you dont have to worry about stripping the plastic/metal arms. It also comes with a metal torsion bar system that is pretty easy to tweak individual arms to your liking. It also comes with a metal plate to mount your gearboxes to help with flex in the chassis. You also get the rear torsion bar/track tensioner as well as the easy open latch and catch. It is quite the upgrade although I'm not sure if the Mato road wheels can be reused. Our idler wheels are now two piece screw together type (new ones ship when the T34 comes in stock) for the Tiger 1 and since they are held in by set screws they should be a lot more reliable as well.
Once again I apologize if I sound like a salesman, I really hate that.
Imex-Erik is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 01:36 PM
  #19
jarndice
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Hemel Hempstead,Hertfordshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 445
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Gus, A thought about the escape hatch, TAIGEN make an ESCAPE HATCH with a working hinge. Of course you could buy the TAIGEN METAL TURRET, that comes with the hinged escape hatch amongst other wonders, me, I like to do some of the work myself, enjoy your build. shaun

Last edited by jarndice; 07-28-2014 at 01:40 PM.
jarndice is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 01:48 PM
  #20
Imex-Erik
 
Imex-Erik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Brooksville , FL
Posts: 2,405
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Just let me know if you need any more detailed pictures
Imex-Erik is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 02:32 PM
  #21
Augustus1967
Thread Starter
 
Augustus1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 365
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Hahaha...

Erik,
The longer I look at the Taigen Tiger Lower the better I like it...
And I'll most likely wind up with one.

But I have to bide my time a bit...
Don't want my Sweet Wife(Former Marine) to install a Taigen Tiger Hull in the back of my head...

Jardice,
I did pick up a full Round of Hatches and ports from Taigen...
Including the Turret Escape hatch...
The only hatch I didn't get is the Late Cupola...

Though I'm currently stuck on an Afrika Korps Tiger variant.
I am planning a second Tiger... Most likely Late Production...
An Abomination that may be reason for Excommunication.

Either way I'll press this HL Lower into service...

-gus
Augustus1967 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2014, 01:51 PM
  #22
Augustus1967
Thread Starter
 
Augustus1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 365
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Prepping one of the Taigen Tiger Hulls to proceed with an Early build.

Picked up a set of Taigen Steel Gearboxes to drive this hull.
One issue I see, the left side looks ok, lining up with Three mounting holes.
The right gearbox seems to align with Two holes only.
Am I right in thinking I will need to Drill and Tap the missing mounting hole in the Base Plate?
Or I guess I could drill a hole in the Gearbox to match the offset Mounting Hole in the Base Plate...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2026765[/ATTACH]

-gus
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20140828_163711.jpg
Views:	61
Size:	66.9 KB
ID:	2026765  
Augustus1967 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2014, 01:59 PM
  #23
Imex-Erik
 
Imex-Erik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Brooksville , FL
Posts: 2,405
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Augustus1967 View Post
Prepping one of the Taigen Tiger Hulls to proceed with an Early build.

Picked up a set of Taigen Steel Gearboxes to drive this hull.
One issue I see, the left side looks ok, lining up with Three mounting holes.
The right gearbox seems to align with Two holes only.
Am I right in thinking I will need to Drill and Tap the missing mounting hole in the Base Plate?
Or I guess I could drill a hole in the Gearbox to match the offset Mounting Hole in the Base Plate...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2026765[/ATTACH]

-gus
Yes one of the gearboxes only mounts with two screws on the Tiger 1. If you feel it necessary you can use three, but my brushless tank I just posted did pretty decent with 2 and it had a lot more torque and speed going through it. Nice primer you got going So have you decided to go full early or a mix? I have always liked the mixed builds
Imex-Erik is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2014, 02:24 PM
  #24
Augustus1967
Thread Starter
 
Augustus1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 365
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Thank You Erik...

At this time, I have a Complete Mato Plastic w/Metal upgrades Tiger Early going, plan on going back to all Plastic on this one.
One Taigen Metal Lower Complete, that will be Early-Mid Production with Early Road Wheels and Sprockets-Idlers (Metal)...
One Taigen Metal Lower with Late Road Wheels and Sprockets-Idlers (Metal).

Have a set of Mato Tiger Steel Gearboxes that I need to see if I can mount in the Late Hull.
Also picked Up a Taigen Plastic Turret (IR).

Still need to come up with:
A couple Plastic Upper Hulls.
Another Turret.
Electronics for the two Taigen Hulls.
A set of Late Metal Tracks.
And various Bits and Pieces...

Was originally planning to Kit Bash the Mato Tiger.
But have since decided to keep it Whole and use it for my Abominable Tiger Build...

Best Regards,

-gus
Augustus1967 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2014, 02:42 AM
  #25
1sgt
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Evans, GA
Posts: 1,498
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Augustus1967 View Post
I hear ya Jarndice...

I'll get it figured out...
Hopefully without Breaking too much stuff...



Should be taking the Drivers hatches off next...
And the escape hatch on the Turret.

I Love Power Tools!

-gus

As far as cutting the hatches out. I have heard of guys using a kind of sewing thread ( nylon, I think). They drill a small diameter hole and then use the thread as a very mini coping saw. I want to try it on my HL KT, just not sure of the best type or brand of thread to use. Anyone out there experienced in this technique, I would gladly like to hear from you.
I also look forward to your build. I consider the Tiger my favorite Tank.

Jim
1sgt is offline  
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:52 PM.