Flash units.
#1
Flash units.
I have a new found respect for shielded cables.
I built my own flash unit to replace a busted Tamiya for $3 in parts, but used three aircraft quality (real AC, not RC) teflon coated wires instead of a three conductor shielded.
Flash worked beautifully, then when I installed it in the barrel of my T-34, the flash current blew out the IR emitter. I mean literally exploded the resin cap off the LED. I didn't think it could be the cause until I was looking for shorts (none), found all wires intact, then checked voltage powered up. Whenever I put the multimeter on the flash tube leads, (400 volts) all the servos on the tank chattered. The unshielled wires coming out of the barrel were about an 1/18" from the emitter, even though they didn't contact, I guess it was enough to zap it.
Long and short of it is, be careful with the Tamiya Flashes. Even the 7.2 volt nicads produce a quick 400 volt surge off the capacitor, and believe me, it's one heck of a jolt. Turns out cap shocks can be lethal, even from low voltage sources, so listen to the warnings on your TFUs and wait a while before handling.
I built my own flash unit to replace a busted Tamiya for $3 in parts, but used three aircraft quality (real AC, not RC) teflon coated wires instead of a three conductor shielded.
Flash worked beautifully, then when I installed it in the barrel of my T-34, the flash current blew out the IR emitter. I mean literally exploded the resin cap off the LED. I didn't think it could be the cause until I was looking for shorts (none), found all wires intact, then checked voltage powered up. Whenever I put the multimeter on the flash tube leads, (400 volts) all the servos on the tank chattered. The unshielled wires coming out of the barrel were about an 1/18" from the emitter, even though they didn't contact, I guess it was enough to zap it.
Long and short of it is, be careful with the Tamiya Flashes. Even the 7.2 volt nicads produce a quick 400 volt surge off the capacitor, and believe me, it's one heck of a jolt. Turns out cap shocks can be lethal, even from low voltage sources, so listen to the warnings on your TFUs and wait a while before handling.
#2
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Cambridge ON, CANADA
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400 volts is easily enough juice to jump through most shrink tube. this is why low power High intensity LEDS are best. The high intensity does have that bright bright power flash but it also has enough juice in that capacitor to really do some harm.
this is a great warning for all
this is a great warning for all
#4
Tamiya's unit uses a shielded cable, it's safe as long as you don't try to disconnect the plug while the cap is still charged (well after the battery is disconnected, if the small orange lamp is lit, so is the cap).
I used the same gauge wire as Tamiya (28) with mil-spec teflon wire so I thought it would be safe, maybe some Tx/Rx interference, but never thought anything else was possible.
So, a couple of nasty jolts, a blown emitter and I now have some serious (as Aretha would put it) R E S P E C T.
I used the same gauge wire as Tamiya (28) with mil-spec teflon wire so I thought it would be safe, maybe some Tx/Rx interference, but never thought anything else was possible.
So, a couple of nasty jolts, a blown emitter and I now have some serious (as Aretha would put it) R E S P E C T.
#5
That red piece sticking out the end reminds me of the old BFA's in the barrel. I know the light effect is neat and all but 99% of the time you are just driving around or the tank is on the table so ascetically I'm not so sure I like it. In outside sunny battles even it is barely seen so I think I will stick with my low power little hi-intensity flash and never have to worry about frying any parts or myself...