Strato50

That's the best way to go about the hobby of R/c tanking. Without shame!

philipat

The turret gets finished...details added and reassembly completed.

- The rivets in the wood insulators on the turret bin were added. I used 7-mm brass rivets from www.scalehardware.com. Looking back at it and comparing them with pictures of the subject tank and other Gs, if I were to do it again, I would have used the 5-mm rivets that I have. They would have disappeared into the wood more like the real ones did. They’re glued in and are better than not having rivets. BTW...for those making a parts list, the wood is 2x2-mm strip that I sanded do to make 2x1-mm (2mm wide and 1mm thick).

- The attaching brackets for the turret bin were added using .5-mm sheet styrene. I cut it into a 3-mm strip that was 20-mm long. Then, I measured and drilled the holes in the strip (1 at the 10mm mark, another at the 14-mm mark and the last at the 18-mm mark. I found that marking the strip and drilling the holes before gluing it to the tank was easier than trying to mark and drill after it was attached to the tank. After gluing the strip to the tank, I could then use the strip’s holes as a guide for drilling the holes into the turret bin. I used .5-mm hex bolts from www.scalehardware.com as the attaching hardware. These are actually functional bolts, but I went with glue to secure them. (Don’t have a wrench or nut driver that small. )

- Installed the two turret lifting hooks from http://www.an-bri-rc-modellbau.de. These are pretty nice, but there is a fair amount of casting residual that needs to be filed off. When I was done cleaning them up I was left wondering if I couldn’t have done the same thing with the premolded plastic hooks. I think I’ll try that on the upper hull. If it doesn’t work, I can always grind them off and install these since the set came with enough for a couple of tanks.

- The lifting ring on the mantlet had to be corrected. I pulled out the 1-mm hex head bolts and replaced them with the .5-mm bolts. The ring I reglued using JB Weld. Seems much more secure, but I still think it might not survive its first encounter with a bush.

- Reworked the pointed cap nuts on the mantlet. I had dinged them a bit in the other mods. And, since I ordered some conical rivets for the front tow brackets, I figured I’d use them on the mantlet, too. They seem to be about the same size with the addition of the hex nut behind the pointed portion. So, I used the 2-mm conical rivets with a 00-90 brass nut (all available from www.scalehardware.com) to recreate the effect. The rivet shaft fit right through the hole of the nut. Glued it all in place. Not an exact replica, but better than what was there.

- Used rubber cement and masking tape to secure the coax gun’s LED to the airsoft gun. I used rubber cement to secure the fiber optic to both ends.

- The turret signal port (aka, hatch for loading airsoft BBs) has a tendency to flop open. So, I used a little JB Weld to secure a small piece of steel (soup can lid) and a 2x2-mm cylindrical magnet to the hatch and the opening in the turret. That will hold it closed but still allow me to load it with BBs.

- Reassembly...looks a bit like an Ausf G’s turret now.

strmnd54

I like what you've done to this point...

I decided to use servo elevation for my project, since I'm using a TK-22 for main board...

So I'm gonna take the plunge and try to downsize the turret bin to have it look more to scale...

The funny thing is that you choose to build your tank from the top down and I'm building mine from the ground up...

I need to update my thread since I already had to modify the Asiatam (or Taigen) metal suspension for my tank...

philipat

Thanks. I'd like to see what you've done...borrow some tips as I get to it.

strmnd54

My build is much slower than yours. You can follow it on this thread:http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...r-project.html

I ordered some return rollers mounts from Mato 3 weeks ago ( I couldn't save the original ones: too much glue) and received a money refund yesterday...

So I placed an order with Welsh Dragon last night, which I should have done in the first place; and hope to resume my build next week....

philipat

Thanks for the link. Sorry to hear that about Mato. I've bought from them several times and never had an issue.

Welsh Dragon is GTG. RCTank.de is another good one that communicates well, if you're buying from Europe.

My goal is to finish by Christmas...that's ambitious considering my PzIIIM took three years.

philipat

Started work on the upper hull. I removed everything that could be unglued and did some sanding, grinding and drilling.

- Prep work completed for:
- Correcting the tread plate on the fenders.
- Correcting the lack of angle on the rear deck. Cut a wedge from the sides that lowers the rearmost point about 3 to 3.5-mm.
- Correct the brake cooler cylinder (half round thing on the left side). It’s too small.
- Correct the lifting hooks at the front of the hull.
- Shift the location of the rearmost, portside splash guard.
- Install metal hatches all around. Note: if you plan to do this, you will lose the following screw posts:
- Rearmost posts for connecting the lower and upper hulls.
- Rearmost post for holding the turret rotation gear box.
- One post for the upper hull’s 8-pin connector. There is a mirror setup at the front of the hull for this.

Other work done:
- Thinned the plastic fenders to look more like metal and to allow the sprockets to be raised a little.
- Filled and redrilled the driver’s periscope holes. The originals seem a little too large.
- Glued the lower deck at an angle. It will need a couple of days to cure completely.
- Scribed the additional plate lines on the rear deck that HL omitted. That required carefully shaving off a latch from one of the hatches being removed and re-gluing it on the center narrow plate. Took a couple of tries, but careful work with a hobby knife did it. Looking back on it, I should have glued it on after scribing the line. It’s just a little too far from the line. I might still “debond” it and reglue it closer to the line.

Now, I have to wait for a styrene order. Didn’t anticipate these corrections when I put together my original parts orders. I found the need for correcting the fenders’ tread plates when re-reviewing other people’s builds and then comparing it the walk-arounds of the PzIVs at the Aberdeen Proving Grounds. (I think those have actually moved...Ft Benning, GA?)

That was part of checking the size of the brake cooling cylinder. HL’s is wrong from the look of it, but I can’t find any actual dimensions to scale it properly. Anyone have dimensions for the 1:1 part?

strmnd54

Here's a video link for a restored panzer IV( I don't know the language but they give some close-up of different parts of the tank and even some scale dimensions from you could try to extrapolate...): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rZuURtYpHM

philipat

A little more work done on the upper hull. Mostly, I’m stalled waiting for some styrene and micro-hardware to arrive, especially my tread plate that needs to be in place before I can mount everything on the fenders. Anyhow, here’s what I’ve done in the meantime.

Armor reinforcement: 2-mm sheet styrene cut and installed on the front glacis.

Hatches installed: Got the transmission and driver’s and radio operator’s hatches installed. Still need to add the small platform underneath the transmission hatches to keep them from falling through. Right now, they’re held in place with masking tape. I ground off the signal hatches from the driver’s and radio operator’s hatches since those were not present on most of the Gs.

Splash guard: Installed a small splash guard in front of the existing one. The real one extended further down the line of the larger triangular guard. But, HL’s guards for the driver and radio operator are a little too large. I left them alone because I already had the metal hatches in place. The one that I made uses 2-mm triangular styrene. It’s sanded down to give a steep front slope and a more gradual rear slope. Then, I backfilled the space behind the them with contour putty and sanded it smooth.

Hull bolts: HL molded in several of the recessed hull bolts around the driver’s and radio operator’s hatches. But, they don’t look very good. So, I drilled them out and installed some real micro screws that just arrived. I used a #55 drill bit in a pin vise to drill them out carefully. Then a dab of CA glue holds them in place. The hardware is 000-120 x 3/16" brass slotted screws from www.jimorrisco.com. I could have used the 3/32" screws with less protruding into the back hull. But, I bought the 3/16" screws figuring that I could always cut them shorter if I needed to.

Front hull bolts: HL also molded the hull bolts near the transmission hatches, but made them poorly done rounded protruding bolts. Those will need to be replaced. Looking at several of the walk-arounds on the internet, it seems that there was a tendency to use what was available. Most of the time they seemed to be flush. Others use rounded, slotted bolts or hex-head bolts. I’ve decided to go with one I saw and liked that used flat, flush, slotted bolts around the plate and hex bolts on the plate. So, the first step is to mark each location. (Note: I’m not trying to correct any incorrect bolt placement, if HL did get it wrong...just improve the appearance of what HL molded in place). To mark it, I first drilled a hole in the center of the molded bolt head. I did that with a small drill in a pin vise carefully placed and drilled. Any drill between .5-mm and .7-mm will work. Larger than .7-mm won’t fit in the molded bolt slot. Once each hole has been drilled, I sanded off the bolt heads.

Wooden parts: I used some 4-mm x 4-mm strip to build these. The jack block uses 8 19-mm strips that are glued together to form an 8 x 19-mm jack block. According to the Trojca books, the antenna trough appears to have been two troughs combined to form one. The bottom trough has a rounded trough. The top one is squared. Both were made using the same initial steps. Mark the center line with an Xacto knife and then notch along the line with the Xacto knife. Then, with the notch as a guide, I used a round micro file to carve and sand the groove. I got a boost in this because I broke off the tapered point of the file leaving a sharp flat face. This made it both a chisel and sander and make it faster to carve the trough. Once it was at the proper depth (about 1.5-mm from the bottom), the bottom trough was finished. The other one was squared off using square and flat micro files. Then, I stained the groove in the lower trough and glued the two together. Last, I stained the entire thing. The stain was applied using a stain pen.

philipat

More upper hull work while waiting for materials to arrive.

Front hull bolts (outside the center access plate): With the marking complete, I redrilled the holes. I think a #60 gets the screw through it. But, the head won’t sit flush. That took using #52 to drill about halfway into the plastic. DON’T DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE PLASTIC! If you do, the screw falls through. Half-way allows the head to sit flush with plastic surface. I recommend going a little at a time with frequent tests with a screw to get the right depth. Once you have all of the holes done and the screws sit correctly, then pull them out, dab some CA on the back of the hole (inside the hull) and set in the screw.

Front hull bolts (inside the center access plate): For these, I used 1-mm UNM bolts from www.scalehardware.com (head is 1.4-mm). I re-drilled the marking holes to .85-mm and then screwed them into place. A dab of CA glue on the inside of the hull will hold them in place. Not making them flush with the surface made them a lot easier.

Lowered the rear deck: I did this by cutting the hull down about 3-mm in the rear and then tapering it to the point where the fan grills meet the hull. Most of the build threads on the internet show this being done. This also required grinding down the top of the fan grill boxes. (Note that the grills remain level and the top slopes. So, cutting the bottom to angle it wouldn’t work.) The gaps were filled with Milliput and sanded down.

Engine access hatches: These were also installed. If you plan to do this, you’ll lose both of the rear screw posts for attaching the lower and upper hull. You also lose one of the posts for the rotation motor and one for the 8-pin plug. The rotation motor will be fine on 2 posts (originally there are three). The 8-pin plug can be moved to the front between the driver’s and radio operator’s positions.

Rivets and panel markings: I deepened the holes or replaced as necessary the rivet holes. I used a #55 drill bit for the rivet markings. The panel markings were made using a metal ruler and Xacto knife followed by an oval micro file. Not a recommended process. I finally got the Tamiya scriber tool and touched up the markings. This would have been the tool to start with.

Hull bolts: I replaced the recessed hull bolts here the same way as the ones near the driver’s and radio operator’s hatches.

Splash guard: HL’s molded portside rear guard was in the wrong spot. So, I ground it off and fabricated a new one. I did this with a 3-mm sheet styrene. I cut a 5-mm wide strip and then marked the center line. From there I filed each side from the center line to the edge to create a strip that was an isosceles triangle. Looking back, perhaps a 2.5-mm sheet would have been better because I had to keep sanding it smaller after making the triangle. I had a hard time measuring the center height of HL’s splash guards. When it was all done, I’m not sure I moved it much. But, making a triangle from a rectangle was a fun challenge.

Rear hull plate: Because the rear deck was lowered, the rear plate has to be trimmed from the top. That means respotting all of the bolts, rivets and the tow cable brackets. The bottom three bolt heads will keep their positions, which were marked by drilling a hole in the center of HL’s moldings. The others were lowered by 1 - 2-mm. The measurements were marked from the bottom of the plate with pencil to ensure that horizontal and vertical parallel lines were maintained. Then, holes were drilled to mark their future locations. (Waiting for hex styrene rods)

Grab handle: The Gs don’t seem to have the step ladder on the portside fender like previous versions. But, I’ve seen some photos where there was a grab handle in its place. I used some 1.4-mm brass wire to fabricate one. It stands about 3-mm off the deck and is about 10-mm wide. Before epoxying it into place, I sanded the surface to rough it up. I did this because I’ve noticed some of the paint chipping off my brass parts on my PzIII. Perhaps this will help the primer stick better when it’s time to paint.

Cruiser133

Wish I would have read this build before I hacked up my Jagdpanzer IV. A ton of great ideas here, awesome work!

philipat

Thanks, I'm glad that this build is being enjoyed.

Got some more work done on the upper hull.

Hatches: all of them have a support shelf installed using styrene sheet. (Note: Driver’s and radio operator’s hatches rest on the hull.) I also installed a small 2x1-mm disc rare earth magnet for each hatch. The hatches themselves are not ferrous; so, I cut a small piece of steel from frozen juice can lids and glued it to each hatch right where the magnet is. All gluing was done using JB Weld. The magnet is strong enough to hold the hatch closed, but not make it impossible to open it.

Hatch bumpers: the driver’s and radio operator’s hatches both have small bumpers on the centered on the splash guards in front of them. This was easy to do with 2-mm strips of .8-mm sheet styrene.

Vent Cover Tabs: The rear air vents had thin sheet metal covers that could be lifted to keep dust and things out. I’m not sure that I’ll model those. There’s a lot of dust in the North African desert, but there’s also a lot of heat and ventilation is crucial. But, I did replicate the retention tabs with .8-mm sheet styrene cut into 1.5-mm strips. The trick was heating it to allow me to bend the tips a little.

Jack Block: The block needed the metal straps. So, I used some .8-mm sheet styrene cut into 2-mm strips and wrapped it around the block. A little heat helps it bend. After gluing it down, I drilled the holes to install .7-mm miniature rivets from www.scalehardware.com. I also built the shelf that it will sit on. The glue is plastic weld. It works well with styrene. A little questionable when welding styrene to the ABS that the hull is made of. I’ll glue this in place when I get my 12-mm diameter styrene tube, which will be used to make the transmission vent cover. Until then I want to leave this off so that I measure and glue everything just once.

philipat

Some more work on the antenna, too.

Antenna base: I got this part from www.modellino.com. It’s a good part, but assumes that you’ll just use the standard HL antenna and stick it on the base. That would create an unsightly flare. So, I bored it out carefully with a micro drill and will eventually glue into it the HL antenna. Then, I’ll use black heat shrink to stiffen and blacken it.

Antenna Brackets: The antenna trough uses three brackets to hold it in place. Two of them are simple right angle bends from the side hull. To make them look realistic I used more .8-mm styrene sheet cut to the width of the brass strip (F-1x-3 from www.specialshapes.com). I put that on the hull side to replicate the strip that would have run the entire height of the hull. I needed a couple of small chunks to be spacers to get the brackets to the right distance from the hull to work with the antenna base. The rearmost bracket is the trickiest to make. It bolts to the vent covers with a couple of shallow angles to get it to hang straight from a slanted surface. The cylindrical spacer is a 2-mm styrene rod cut to about 2-mm length. I drilled a .8-mm hole in both the strip and rod to accommodate an .8-mm hex head bolt from www.scalehardware.com. It’s all epoxied in place. Looking closely at it, I decided that it needed some more rigidity. So, I built a lower bracket that was glued using JB Weld. This bracket “bolts” to the fan housing and the underside of the main bracket. The bolt heads are .8-mm hex head bolts cut from the bolts. I didn’t dare try to drill holes into the bracket or side while it was epoxied; so, they just simulate bolts. If I had thought it out enough, I would have seen the need for this second bracket and drilled the appropriate holes already. (Note: closer examination of PzIV photos shows the bracket; so, I guess the added rigidity was needed in real life, too. )

YHR

Very nice work. I love the attention to the details

Cheers

ausf

Superb work.

strmnd54

This is a remarkable attention to details...
I don't think mine is gonna be anywhere near yours is that aspect...For one; I'm not using the metal hatches...

That being said; I manage to get my lower hull up and running ...
So it's time to update my thread...

philipat

A little more work on the rear deck.

Rear deck bolts: So, the holes in the rear deck around the engine hatches were bugging me. I had already replaced the upper hull’s other bolts. So, something had to be done with this. I have the miniature screws, rivets, and hex bolts; so, I should be able to correct it. Or, I could just fill it in. The few clear photos of the rear deck that I could find showed a smooth surface as if whatever bolts were there were later replaced with welds. However, I found a couple of photos of a H and a J that showed smooth, flat bolt heads that were just above the surface. Of course, I don’t have those. :sigh: So, what has a flat, round, smooth head? Nails...too big...push pins (aka dressmaker pins)...just right. So, I cut the heads off, filled in the holes and re-drilled them to .8-mm. Then, I glued in the pin heads. After that, I filed them so that they looked flatter and thinner. That looks much better.

Fuel Cap: So, in doing the other work, I flattened out the small knobs on the fuel cap. (At least, I think it is the fuel cap.) So, I replaced them with 1.2-mm rivets.

One question for you out there: I put in bolt heads across the top of the right engine hatch. HL didn’t put any divets there and I can tell in the photos if they should be there or not. I did it for symmetry. Does anyone if they should or shouldn’t be there?

philipat

Front deck on the upper hull needed the spare track brackets. I made these from F-1x-4 and F-1x-12 brass strips from www.specialshapes.com. The picture below essentially describes what to do. Once made, I carved in the slots in the hull and then epoxied the brackets in place. The drill bits holding everything together while the glue dried are 1.3-mm bits.

The antenna trough’s brackets were fun to make in brass. But, this is my coup d’etat in this build’s brass work. Soldering the brass tube to the brackets was the first time I’ve been able to solder two parts like that together. So, this detail included cutting, bending, drilling, soldering and a little sanding brass parts.

YHR

Sweet

ausf

Outstanding.

philipat

My styrene materials arrived. So, now I can move forward on some of the other details. This shipment included ½" styrene tube, hex rods (1.5-2.5 mm), and diamond tread plate.

Tread plate: I installed the tread plate. I read somewhere that the treads should be about 2-mm long. So, that ended up being O-scale (1:48) diamond plate from JTT Scenery Products (www.sceneryproducts.com). The trick here was that in the photos I’ve seen the tread lines run parallel and perpendicular to the long axis of the tank, essentially in a square pattern rather than a diamond pattern. The styrene sheet is set up in a diamond pattern. So, all of the sections had to be cut at an angle in the sheet. Not the most efficient use of the styrene, but it works. The cutting templates that I have were a huge help in making the 90[SUP]o[/SUP] angles, since I don’t have a hobby square. Tip: remember to measure twice so that you only cut once and don’t assume that each side is the same, just mirrored, as the other.

Brake air vent cover: I used the ½" styrene tube for this. But, it wasn’t thick enough; it needed to be about 1.5-mm thick. So, I beefed it up with some .5-mm and .3-mm styrene sheets. Do this in layers sandwiching them together. In retrospect, it would have been easier to use 3x .3-mm sheet layers because they are more pliable. Use a plastic weld to blend them into a continuous styrene tube. I made it about 12-mm tall. The bottom edge appears to sit mid-way up from the fenders to the top of the hull and the top of the cover doesn’t quite reach the top of the side wall. So, the overall height of the brake cover appears to be about 48% (in other words, just shy of half) of half the height of the sidewall (from fender to top).

Jack block platform: installed that.

Headlights: SMDs installed in the Bosch headlights. The headlights are from http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/. These are the Tiger I Early set in white metal. The same set I got for the PzIII a few years ago was a nickel brass. I don’t know if they changed the metal they use or if I inadvertently ordered the white metal version, but that’s what I got. I like the nickel ones a little better, but these will work. The headlights are positioned in this photo. In the next couple of days, I’ll add the power cable (brass wire) and epoxy them into place.

Rear plate: I used 2-mm hex rod to make bolt heads that were approximately 1-mm thick. I glued these at the holes that were previously made as markers. I also installed 2-mm conical rivets from www.scalehardware.com. The tow cable brackets are from the PzIV J kit from http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/. These are a nickel brass and very nicely done. It comes with an excellent two cable that I’ll finish up later.

Tread plate, brake cover and jack block platform were all secured using plastic weld. The large surface area of the tread plate require fast work with a lot of coverage. But, it seems pretty solid. The holes that HL made in the fenders for tools and whatnot are a great marker for holes in the tread plate later.

philipat

Got a little more done. Amazing how much time it takes to complete something that I thought would be an easy and quick detail to do.

Headlights: added the “lamp cables” using 1-mm brass wire. The hex nut that was used for entry is 2-mm hex rod cut 1-mm thick with a 1.10-mm hole drilled into the center. All glued into place. Tip: prepare this part before gluing the headlight into place. Don’t ask...

Convoy light: got this installed. I used the same parts and setup on my PzIII build. The difference this time is that I had .8-mm hex head bolts, which gave a better scale appearance. So, I used them.

Spare road wheel box: I built and installed that. The sides use 1.5-mm styrene sheet and the front uses 1-mm sheet. It’s a little too thick for scale, but necessary for strength and durability. The rivets are 1.2-mm rivets from www.scalehardware.com. The road wheels are a snug fit (still need to take the suspension off of them).

Questions for the history buffs:
- There are two styles of these boxes. One has higher walls with a bracket for a holding bar that runs between the outer and inner wheels and keeps them from bouncing out. The other has a more angled side wall (like the one I built). How were the road wheels secured in this setup? I’ve found that nothing stays on an armored vehicle unless it is bolted or tied down, regardless of how heavy it is. These look like they’re waiting to get bounced out.

- I read somewhere (don’t remember what blog or forum) that the road wheel box was either omitted or used for something else by the Afrika Korps. Can anyone confirm that or provide more information?

- Did the Ausf G use the reflector on the right (starboard) fender? I have the one that HL provides. But, generally, I’ve only seen the Gs with the reflector on bottom edge of the left (portside) mud flap below the convoy light.

Need to do some putty work, place the stowed tools (still deciding between the HL plastic ones and the Taigen metal set), and possibly make a rear reflector. But, looks like the detailing is coming to a close on the upper hull. Then, it’s re-wiring and I’ll be ready to move to the lower hull. If I’m missing a detail, let me know.

philipat

16. Got some more work done on the upper hull and I’m closing in on completion of the upper hull.

- I fabricated the reflector that sits on the left, rear mud flap. I made it using brass strip (F-1x-4 from www.specialshapes.com) as the frame and 1/8" (3.2-mm) styrene rod and tube cemented together with plastic weld.
- Bend the strip to the correct angle so that the reflector is vertical when on the mud flap.
- The tube I used had thick walls and the center diameter wasn’t large enough. Starting with a 1.5-mm drill bit, step your way up to a 2-mm bit.
- Cut a piece 1-mm long (widening the hole works best if you’re working with more styrene) and weld them together.
- Then, I used 2-part epoxy to glue them to the strip.
- File the strip to a rounded end that follows the contour of the styrene and you have the part.
- I was concerned with how well it would stay attached to the mud flap, even with 2-part epoxy. So, I drilled two .6-mm holes and added 1-mm rivets. These I bent backwards and epoxied everything into place. Hopefully, it survive a few small bushes when my driving isn’t so great.

- Next big thing was to layout the tools and add the bits that would “secure” in place...something to add some realism rather than just gluing them into place and having them float along. First layout tried to blend the directions in the Taigen and Tamiya manuals. But, I realized that it wasn’t quite going to work. So, I made some of my own adjustments. Probably not exactly right, but you get the idea. The straps were made with .3-mm styrene cut into strips 1.5-mm wide (2.5-mm for the long box wrench). The silver buckles are standard office staples. The copper buckles are individual strands from 22-gage electrical wire. The styrene shapes and straps are welded to the tread plate using plastic weld. Most of the shapes are .5-mm styrene sheet cut into strips and set in place. The wire cutters use 3-mm L-shape. The circular clips are more of the 1/8" styrene tube hollowed out (to a #52 bit, if I recall correctly). I slid it over the crank handle and then cut the top piece out. The crank handle was a good guide for getting everything right. If it was a slightly snug fit over the handle, then I had hollowed it out just enough.

With the filling and sanding completed, I believe that completes the detailing of the upper hull, unless someone sees an egregious omission.

Gotta figure out what to do with the tools, though. One option is to prime and paint them in their entirety. The other is to try to blacken them slightly just to dull the shine. Then, prime the portions that should either be painted (hull brackets, for example) or represent wood (like handles) and then paint them appropriately. Any suggestions?

ksoc

Very nice work. ALMOST a shame you have to paint over it when you are done. Unpainted the level of custom work is very apparent.

philipat

Funny you should say that...I've looked at it a couple of times and briefly thought it will be a shame to paint it because the work will get lost in the paint and look as if it had always been there. But, it will get painted...just the next step in the detailing. Eventually...moving slowly... LOL