Pz IV Ausf G DAK Build
11-05-2016, 12:08 PM
#151
Thread Starter
Still playing with some mixtures for RAL 7027...got some good ideas and now I’m torn between two mixtures. I really like the Buff:Khaki mix (1:1) and the Buff:Deck Tan:Khaki (1:1:2) mixes. The Buff:Khaki mix almost disappears in the B&W photos and the Buff:Deck Tan:Khaki completely disappears. Both seem to have a good green/brown/gray mix. Right now, I’m leaning towards the Buff:Deck Tan:Khaki mix. I’ll let it sit for a day or so and see which one grows on me.
Some photos in late afternoon shade, mid-day sun, and under fluorescent lights with their associated B&W photos (same order).
I’ve also been playing with some ideas I found online for painting wood. Granted, I skipped the steps to add the grain, but I was going more for the colors. I think using the Tamiya clear paints would have worked better if I had thinned it first to get just a hint on it. Not sure which “brown” I like better for the wood handles on the tools. Pictures are in mid-day sun, early afternoon shade, and under fluorescent lights.
Some photos in late afternoon shade, mid-day sun, and under fluorescent lights with their associated B&W photos (same order).
I’ve also been playing with some ideas I found online for painting wood. Granted, I skipped the steps to add the grain, but I was going more for the colors. I think using the Tamiya clear paints would have worked better if I had thinned it first to get just a hint on it. Not sure which “brown” I like better for the wood handles on the tools. Pictures are in mid-day sun, early afternoon shade, and under fluorescent lights.
Last edited by philipat; 07-20-2017 at 06:49 AM.
11-12-2016, 04:25 PM
#152
Thread Starter
Painted in the camouflage. I decided to go with the gut and went for the 1:1:2 mixture. It’s tone and brightness change a lot depending upon the lighting. Interesting to see it. Here are some photos of the progress.
In the evening shade:
Under fluorescent lighting:
In mid-day sun:
Same paint for RAL 7027 on a black background:
In the evening shade:
Under fluorescent lighting:
In mid-day sun:
Same paint for RAL 7027 on a black background:
11-19-2016, 06:28 PM
#153
Thread Starter
Painted the tools and rusted the exhaust.
Darker wood on the tools is Tamiya’s Deck Brown Linoleum (XF-79) with a light Clear Orange (X-26) wash. The lighter wood color is Tamiya’s Deck Tan Wooden (XF-78) with a light Clear Yellow (X-24) wash. The handle on the jack is Flat Earth (XF-52).
The cable is the twisted wire that comes in the Schumo kit. It’s basically just picture wire. I toned it down a little with two washes. The first is a wash with German Grey (XF-63) with about a 2:1 mixture of solvent to paint. The second wash used Flat Earth in a 4:1 mixture of solvent to paint.
The rust on the exhaust is actual rust. I let a small paint mixing dish sit with water in it. Once it was a slurry with very little water, I brushed that around on the exhaust. Then, you can brush off any excess rust. Some of it will soak into the paint when the water softens the paint.
Darker wood on the tools is Tamiya’s Deck Brown Linoleum (XF-79) with a light Clear Orange (X-26) wash. The lighter wood color is Tamiya’s Deck Tan Wooden (XF-78) with a light Clear Yellow (X-24) wash. The handle on the jack is Flat Earth (XF-52).
The cable is the twisted wire that comes in the Schumo kit. It’s basically just picture wire. I toned it down a little with two washes. The first is a wash with German Grey (XF-63) with about a 2:1 mixture of solvent to paint. The second wash used Flat Earth in a 4:1 mixture of solvent to paint.
The rust on the exhaust is actual rust. I let a small paint mixing dish sit with water in it. Once it was a slurry with very little water, I brushed that around on the exhaust. Then, you can brush off any excess rust. Some of it will soak into the paint when the water softens the paint.
11-21-2016, 05:32 PM
#154
Thread Starter
Tank now has its national and unit markings. It even got christened. The stencils from rctank.de really made it easier. And, I like painting them with the airbrush much better than a hand brush. Gotta be careful, though, to ensure that they’re really stuck to the tank with no bubbles.
I also blackened the exhaust pipes and the muzzle brake. Might have overdone it a bit, though.
Colors used:
Red: 1 ml of Flat Red (XF-7) with 2 drops of Red Brown (XF-64) to dirty it up a little. Black: 2 ml of Flat Black (XF-1) with 4 drops of Flat Earth (XF-52) to dirty it up a little.
White: 1 ml of Flat White (XF-2) with 2 drops of German Grey (XF-63) to dirty it up a little.
Note: all colors airbrushed with 1:1 mixture of paint:solvent.
I also blackened the exhaust pipes and the muzzle brake. Might have overdone it a bit, though.
Colors used:
Red: 1 ml of Flat Red (XF-7) with 2 drops of Red Brown (XF-64) to dirty it up a little. Black: 2 ml of Flat Black (XF-1) with 4 drops of Flat Earth (XF-52) to dirty it up a little.
White: 1 ml of Flat White (XF-2) with 2 drops of German Grey (XF-63) to dirty it up a little.
Note: all colors airbrushed with 1:1 mixture of paint:solvent.
11-24-2016, 06:12 AM
#156
Thread Starter
Gary, thanks.
Yep, all christenings are run through CINCHOUSE for approval BEFORE they are made.
This is not a good instance for "doing then asking for forgiveness later". 
Yep, all christenings are run through CINCHOUSE for approval BEFORE they are made.
This is not a good instance for "doing then asking for forgiveness later".
01-08-2017, 06:17 AM
#157
Thread Starter
I redid the muzzle brake and exhaust. They look much better now. I found that the round ends of the exhaust can be done well using a Q-tip dipped in paint and pressed into the exhaust opening. This creates a smaller ring around the top and outside edge similar to what you would find on a tailpipe. The Q-tip also helps to blend in touch ups because you can roll it, leaving a texture similar to the airbrush.
I’ve also added the tools. Everything on a horizontal surface was glued with CA glue. The things on the vertical surfaces were glued using 5-min epoxy. Hopefully, the CA will hold when driving across the lawn. I left the metal tools unpainted where it would be a metallic surface. They’ll darken a little with the washes, but it seemed better than trying to paint them a metallic color.
The machine guns were painted using Tamiya Gun Metal (X-10). I used a Q-tip to just blacken the rims of their muzzles. It’s one of those effects that you see, but don’t notice. Pretty cool.
The antenna was installed. It’s a 12.5-cm section of the HL wire antenna. That should be the scale size for the 2-m antenna. To thicken and stiffen it a little, I put heat shrink on the wire. I like the HL antenna wire because it’s stiff enough that it won’t bend the first time the turret pushes the gun tube against it. I had already drilled out the tip of the antenna base. So, I epoxied the wire in place with JB Weld and then installed the heat shrink.
Note to anyone trying the heat shrink...it shrinks longitudinally as well as laterally. I lost about .5-cm when I had to cut off wire because the heat shrink got smaller than the wire.
I’ve also added the tools. Everything on a horizontal surface was glued with CA glue. The things on the vertical surfaces were glued using 5-min epoxy. Hopefully, the CA will hold when driving across the lawn. I left the metal tools unpainted where it would be a metallic surface. They’ll darken a little with the washes, but it seemed better than trying to paint them a metallic color.
The machine guns were painted using Tamiya Gun Metal (X-10). I used a Q-tip to just blacken the rims of their muzzles. It’s one of those effects that you see, but don’t notice. Pretty cool.
The antenna was installed. It’s a 12.5-cm section of the HL wire antenna. That should be the scale size for the 2-m antenna. To thicken and stiffen it a little, I put heat shrink on the wire. I like the HL antenna wire because it’s stiff enough that it won’t bend the first time the turret pushes the gun tube against it. I had already drilled out the tip of the antenna base. So, I epoxied the wire in place with JB Weld and then installed the heat shrink.
Note to anyone trying the heat shrink...it shrinks longitudinally as well as laterally. I lost about .5-cm when I had to cut off wire because the heat shrink got smaller than the wire.
Last edited by philipat; 01-08-2017 at 06:19 AM.
01-08-2017, 04:59 PM
#158
Looking good! Very detailed. 
Jeff
Jeff
01-10-2017, 06:25 PM
#159
Thread Starter
Thanks, Jeff!
I did a little more work on the tank this weekend. I did a dark brown wash, but I’m not convinced that made much difference. I also did a dry brushing technique. Well, really, it was probably a dry rub (without the meat, coals, or smoke). I read somewhere about people using graphite from pencil sharpeners to hit the high points on tanks to give it a worn look. And, I have some graphite lube leftover from the Pinewood Derby days. So, I applied that with my finger and hit the edges, bolts, rivets, handles, etc. Overall, it dirtied it some and gave some worn appearance. It’s still subtle enough not to appear to be a battlefield derelict.
I also fixed the jack block in place. The leather strap is cut cloth that was painted and glued in place. The buckle is a bent staple.
I fixed the spare tracks in place. Before I did that, I wanted to seal in the paint job. So, I applied a coat of Testors Dull Cote. I was concerned about the rubbing of the tracks rubbing off the paint. A word of warning (and reminder to myself) to anyone planning to use Dull Cote over an acrylic paint job. Apply the Dull Cote in several light coats rather than one medium coat. The lacquer Dull Cote attacks the acrylic paint. I’m sure I read that somewhere, but completely forgot. Oh well, lesson learned.
The spare tracks on the upper hull are held in place with nails. I don’t know the gauge; they were in a box of various nail sizes that I have. But, the shaft diameter is about 1.3-mm. I needed a nail head on each end to simulate the track pin’s heads. So, they’re cut so that the ends meet inside of a track link. They’re epoxied using JB Weld. The spare tracks on the front glacis are secured with the retaining bar. This was secured with 5-min epoxy.
Last thing I did was to darken the tracks. Frankly, this was an accident. I had some gun blue and I thought I’d take a little of the edge off and darken them slightly. Well, they ended up black, which wasn’t what I wanted. Since they blacken as a result of a chemical reaction with the metal, I figured I could recover it by scraping off the outer surface similar to removing rust. So, I wire-brushed the tracks. Now, they’re more of a blackened silver. I like it a lot better. Once I get them on the tank I’ll decide if it’s a technique I want to use again.
I did a little more work on the tank this weekend. I did a dark brown wash, but I’m not convinced that made much difference. I also did a dry brushing technique. Well, really, it was probably a dry rub (without the meat, coals, or smoke
). I read somewhere about people using graphite from pencil sharpeners to hit the high points on tanks to give it a worn look. And, I have some graphite lube leftover from the Pinewood Derby days. So, I applied that with my finger and hit the edges, bolts, rivets, handles, etc. Overall, it dirtied it some and gave some worn appearance. It’s still subtle enough not to appear to be a battlefield derelict. I also fixed the jack block in place. The leather strap is cut cloth that was painted and glued in place. The buckle is a bent staple.
I fixed the spare tracks in place. Before I did that, I wanted to seal in the paint job. So, I applied a coat of Testors Dull Cote. I was concerned about the rubbing of the tracks rubbing off the paint. A word of warning (and reminder to myself) to anyone planning to use Dull Cote over an acrylic paint job. Apply the Dull Cote in several light coats rather than one medium coat. The lacquer Dull Cote attacks the acrylic paint. I’m sure I read that somewhere, but completely forgot. Oh well, lesson learned.
The spare tracks on the upper hull are held in place with nails. I don’t know the gauge; they were in a box of various nail sizes that I have. But, the shaft diameter is about 1.3-mm. I needed a nail head on each end to simulate the track pin’s heads. So, they’re cut so that the ends meet inside of a track link. They’re epoxied using JB Weld. The spare tracks on the front glacis are secured with the retaining bar. This was secured with 5-min epoxy.
Last thing I did was to darken the tracks. Frankly, this was an accident. I had some gun blue and I thought I’d take a little of the edge off and darken them slightly. Well, they ended up black, which wasn’t what I wanted. Since they blacken as a result of a chemical reaction with the metal, I figured I could recover it by scraping off the outer surface similar to removing rust. So, I wire-brushed the tracks. Now, they’re more of a blackened silver. I like it a lot better. Once I get them on the tank I’ll decide if it’s a technique I want to use again.
02-07-2017, 05:11 PM
#160
Thread Starter
Admittedly, I’m slow. Between work, work travels, family and the local BSA troop, I also have to fit in the weather that is warm enough to paint. Anyhow, I applied a few coats of Testors Dull Cote. It definitely flattened the color and even seems to have darkened it a little.
Next will be to give a light dusting with Tamiya’s Desert Yellow (XF-59). I might also see if I can find some pale yellow or pale yellow-brown sidewalk chalk to dust it a little more. Wonder if I can make it will a blend of ground white and yellow sidewalk chalk...
Next will be to give a light dusting with Tamiya’s Desert Yellow (XF-59). I might also see if I can find some pale yellow or pale yellow-brown sidewalk chalk to dust it a little more. Wonder if I can make it will a blend of ground white and yellow sidewalk chalk...
02-18-2017, 02:02 PM
#161
Thread Starter
I think I’ve finished. I don’t know about the whole chalk-dusting-thing. I’ve given the entire tank a very light dusting using Tamiya’s Desert Yellow (XF-59). Basically, I used a mixture of 2:1:1 (Tamiya acrylic solvent : rubbing alcohol : paint) and then airbrushed it from about 12" away from the tank. It kept the overall color of the tank, but softened the color and the sharper contrasts of the pristine tools, rubber tires, machine gun barrels and markings.
I think it looks pretty good. I’m tempted to just leave it as it is. You can see the difference the dusting makes when you compare the pictures of the last post to the ones in this post.
In mid-afternoon sun:
In mid-afternoon cloud in front of the sun:
Mid-afternoon shade:
Hope y’all like it.
I think it looks pretty good. I’m tempted to just leave it as it is. You can see the difference the dusting makes when you compare the pictures of the last post to the ones in this post.
In mid-afternoon sun:
In mid-afternoon cloud in front of the sun:
Mid-afternoon shade:
Hope y’all like it.
02-18-2017, 02:32 PM
#162
Hmm, You seem to be getting the hang of it, ,
Phil it is BRILLIANT,
I have enjoyed every part of this build and learnt a great deal at the same time.
Thank you for sharing your build,
Is it too early to ask if you have anything special in mind for your next build ?
Shaun.
,Phil it is BRILLIANT,
I have enjoyed every part of this build and learnt a great deal at the same time.
Thank you for sharing your build,
Is it too early to ask if you have anything special in mind for your next build ?
Shaun.
02-18-2017, 03:57 PM
#163
Thread Starter
Thanks, Shaun. Debating between a Tiger and a Panther. The mid-production Tiger I would be from the 508th Schwere Panzer Abteilung in Italy (2d Kompanie). For that, I need to get ahold of the book "Combat History of schwere Panzer-Abteilung 508, In Action in Italy with the Tiger I". I saw preview of a few pages on the internet and it looks like there were pictures that I haven't found anywhere on the net. The Panther G would be an early Ausf G that served with the 12th SS Panzer Division during the German counter-offensive around Normandy (predominantly Caen in the case of the 12th). Not sure which to go with right now. Taigen has a nice mid-production Tiger I to use as a baseline. The G would require more back-dating and probably more detailed work. Need cash, though. 
07-16-2017, 01:49 PM
#166
Very nice! Well done. Both the tank, and all the good info. Thanks for posting.
07-16-2017, 04:00 PM
#167
I have been following this build with great pleasure and love the attention to detail,By NOT including the WRONG rear light on the right hand side and fitting only ONE reflector on the Left side rear Fender,
I have the advantage of watching your build and cross referencing it with various sources to accurately date it so that I can get my detail equally correct,
I bought a set of front and rear fenders from "Shapeways",
I discarded the rear fenders and with some caution cut off the originals and reused them by pin viceing a set of hinges into them using M1 nuts and bolts and after searching the web found a set of fender "Tension" Springs of the right size which when held in place with 1.6mm Nuts and bolts not only look great but actually work !!
There is one thing I spotted which you might like to think about, and it is only because I saw a picture in a book on PZ4s otherwise I would not have got hold of one from a Plastic tree of Heng Long Parts,
It is the Radio Aerial Deflector bar fitted around the Main Gun Mantlet which was fitted to PZ4s to move the Aerial out of the way when the Turret was turned,
. But I am being petty when in truth your PZ4 is really a tour de force..
Shaun.
I have the advantage of watching your build and cross referencing it with various sources to accurately date it so that I can get my detail equally correct,
I bought a set of front and rear fenders from "Shapeways",
I discarded the rear fenders and with some caution cut off the originals and reused them by pin viceing a set of hinges into them using M1 nuts and bolts and after searching the web found a set of fender "Tension" Springs of the right size which when held in place with 1.6mm Nuts and bolts not only look great but actually work !!
There is one thing I spotted which you might like to think about, and it is only because I saw a picture in a book on PZ4s otherwise I would not have got hold of one from a Plastic tree of Heng Long Parts,
It is the Radio Aerial Deflector bar fitted around the Main Gun Mantlet which was fitted to PZ4s to move the Aerial out of the way when the Turret was turned,
. But I am being petty when in truth your PZ4 is really a tour de force..
Shaun.
07-17-2017, 03:28 PM
#168
Thread Starter
Thanks, guys, for your comments.
Shaun, you've been a great help throughout the entire build. I'm glad that you've enjoyed it. I've cross referenced a lot of this, which is why I didn't add the aerial deflector. Looking at the photos of the Spade 7 tank, it didn't have one. Or, it was destroyed. I saw those 3D printed mudflaps and I was really tempted. As I recall they are printed by one of the RCTankWarfare forum members and he used them on his build. They're awesome, but I was already starting the painting when he made them and I needed to finish. I would certainly put them on my list of must-dos for if I do another PzIV build.
Shaun, you've been a great help throughout the entire build. I'm glad that you've enjoyed it. I've cross referenced a lot of this, which is why I didn't add the aerial deflector. Looking at the photos of the Spade 7 tank, it didn't have one. Or, it was destroyed. I saw those 3D printed mudflaps and I was really tempted. As I recall they are printed by one of the RCTankWarfare forum members and he used them on his build. They're awesome, but I was already starting the painting when he made them and I needed to finish. I would certainly put them on my list of must-dos for if I do another PzIV build.
07-17-2017, 03:56 PM
#169
Love the desert red scheme. I did not know they used that. I just thought they were all tan colored. The dusting worked really good. The hardest part of a models realism is breaking the hard solid colors up and blending them as they appear in real life. I think you did that real well.
07-20-2017, 09:27 PM
#171
Thanks, guys, for your comments.
Shaun, you've been a great help throughout the entire build. I'm glad that you've enjoyed it. I've cross referenced a lot of this, which is why I didn't add the aerial deflector. Looking at the photos of the Spade 7 tank, it didn't have one..
Shaun, you've been a great help throughout the entire build. I'm glad that you've enjoyed it. I've cross referenced a lot of this, which is why I didn't add the aerial deflector. Looking at the photos of the Spade 7 tank, it didn't have one..
After talking about the plan to fit a Heng Long Aerial Deflector I then looked at the pictures of ARNIES new Taigen PZ4 and noticed that It's Aerial Deflector is completely different from Heng Long's.
I have since searched through books and pictures and Taigen's is closer to the real thing but of course it is not available as a single item. !!
It looks like more scratch building.
I echo RICH's comments on the finish of your PZ4.,
Shaun.
07-23-2017, 01:37 PM
#172
Thread Starter
do you get days when you wish you hadn't started something?
After talking about the plan to fit a Heng Long Aerial Deflector I then looked at the pictures of ARNIES new Taigen PZ4 and noticed that It's Aerial Deflector is completely different from Heng Long's.
I have since searched through books and pictures and Taigen's is closer to the real thing but of course it is not available as a single item. !!
It looks like more scratch building.
After talking about the plan to fit a Heng Long Aerial Deflector I then looked at the pictures of ARNIES new Taigen PZ4 and noticed that It's Aerial Deflector is completely different from Heng Long's.
I have since searched through books and pictures and Taigen's is closer to the real thing but of course it is not available as a single item. !!
It looks like more scratch building.
Are you modeling a specific tank or just a general time frame? Nice thing about doing the Spade 7 was that there were photos of 3 sides of the tank that answered a lot of questions about what it had or didn't have. Of course, if you're just going for a timeframe, you have some liberties create an "artist's rendition".
