Gearbox bearings...?
09-25-2014, 06:22 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Gearbox bearings...?
Hey tankers,
Just by chance, IF I could get some sets of bearings in stock would you guys be interested? I could possibly stock both the small and big bearings needed for gearboxes, but I would like to get some feedback from you guys. These would be direct replacements for the bushings on the reduction gears and the final drive shaft. Just a yes or no would be fine
Thanks!
Just by chance, IF I could get some sets of bearings in stock would you guys be interested? I could possibly stock both the small and big bearings needed for gearboxes, but I would like to get some feedback from you guys. These would be direct replacements for the bushings on the reduction gears and the final drive shaft. Just a yes or no would be fine
Thanks!
09-25-2014, 06:36 AM
#2
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I would be, as many gearboxes as are out there, I assume you'd be able to keep track of what gearbox needs what bearings?
Save the hassle of trying to compare all the various bearings out there, finding a vendor that will sell in the right quantities, doesn't charge a bunch for shipping, etc.
I personally think flanged bearings that went in the metal chassis for the final drive shaft to be a good idea too. Overkill of course.
Save the hassle of trying to compare all the various bearings out there, finding a vendor that will sell in the right quantities, doesn't charge a bunch for shipping, etc.
I personally think flanged bearings that went in the metal chassis for the final drive shaft to be a good idea too. Overkill of course.
09-25-2014, 06:39 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Yes, all the gearboxes would use only two bearings, one for the reduction gears and one for the final drive shaft. The final drive in most all our gearboxes are bearings, but some like the 3:1 zinc alloy gearboxes could use one. The brass gearboxes are another story however, those are a separate thing. I am working on improving these before I bring them back to market for you guys.
09-25-2014, 06:48 AM
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Problem for me is (and no idea who else is in the same boat) that when I bought the gearboxes for the StuG III, it was so long ago, and so many different products are on the market, I have no clue what I've got anymore. (ok, the order sheet MIGHT be in my email somewhere) I know some of you more avid guys can ID gearboxes by sight, but I certainly can't. If you sold bearings based on what gearbox the consumer had, that would make anyone in the same positions life easier.
09-25-2014, 06:56 AM
#5
I would use them if you can match them up to the gearboxes that are out there. Like dyeager535 said, it would make things easier if we know which gearboxes they would work with. Example, I have some of the pot metal gearboxes and some of the steel gearboxes that I would like to add them to.
09-25-2014, 07:43 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Problem for me is (and no idea who else is in the same boat) that when I bought the gearboxes for the StuG III, it was so long ago, and so many different products are on the market, I have no clue what I've got anymore. (ok, the order sheet MIGHT be in my email somewhere) I know some of you more avid guys can ID gearboxes by sight, but I certainly can't. If you sold bearings based on what gearbox the consumer had, that would make anyone in the same positions life easier.
I can identify by picture, toss me one up and let us see what you got.I would use them if you can match them up to the gearboxes that are out there. Like dyeager535 said, it would make things easier if we know which gearboxes they would work with. Example, I have some of the pot metal gearboxes and some of the steel gearboxes that I would like to add them to.
09-25-2014, 07:45 AM
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I am assuming you are talking about stocking bearings for the HL style stamped steel cases?
After my experience with the Hobby raw boxes that are all bearinged up, my answer is yes. They make a world of difference.
My Leo 2 uses these. They are so free wheeling that the tank rolled down a hill with no throttle input. It stands to reason that this smoothess equates to better running and longer battery life. For a battler it means better movement after damage is taken,
IF these bearings were packged up as a set it would allow people to retofit their old boxes, both the standard gear sets which some people refer to as 3:1 and the confusing 3:1 that some people refer to as 4:1 sets. Not sure who started this 4:1 moniker, but is sure has made it confusing.
After my experience with the Hobby raw boxes that are all bearinged up, my answer is yes. They make a world of difference.
My Leo 2 uses these. They are so free wheeling that the tank rolled down a hill with no throttle input. It stands to reason that this smoothess equates to better running and longer battery life. For a battler it means better movement after damage is taken,
IF these bearings were packged up as a set it would allow people to retofit their old boxes, both the standard gear sets which some people refer to as 3:1 and the confusing 3:1 that some people refer to as 4:1 sets. Not sure who started this 4:1 moniker, but is sure has made it confusing.
09-25-2014, 07:50 AM
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Good idea.
It would be nice if you can say that all the HL style gearboxes would take the same bearing kit to replace the bushings. I tend to think that is the case.
The gear shafts pretty much all have the same bushings so those will most likely get the same bearing.
The only hassle I can imagine is the final drive shaft... there might be different sizes but even that's unlikely.
It would be nice if you can say that all the HL style gearboxes would take the same bearing kit to replace the bushings. I tend to think that is the case.
The gear shafts pretty much all have the same bushings so those will most likely get the same bearing.
The only hassle I can imagine is the final drive shaft... there might be different sizes but even that's unlikely.
Last edited by Strato50; 09-25-2014 at 07:54 AM.
09-25-2014, 08:03 AM
#9
Thread Starter
I am assuming you are talking about stocking bearings for the HL style stamped steel cases?
After my experience with the Hobby raw boxes that are all bearinged up, my answer is yes. They make a world of difference.
My Leo 2 uses these. They are so free wheeling that the tank rolled down a hill with no throttle input. It stands to reason that this smoothess equates to better running and longer battery life. For a battler it means better movement after damage is taken,
IF these bearings were packged up as a set it would allow people to retofit their old boxes, both the standard gear sets which some people refer to as 3:1 and the confusing 3:1 that some people refer to as 4:1 sets. Not sure who started this 4:1 moniker, but is sure has made it confusing.
After my experience with the Hobby raw boxes that are all bearinged up, my answer is yes. They make a world of difference.
My Leo 2 uses these. They are so free wheeling that the tank rolled down a hill with no throttle input. It stands to reason that this smoothess equates to better running and longer battery life. For a battler it means better movement after damage is taken,
IF these bearings were packged up as a set it would allow people to retofit their old boxes, both the standard gear sets which some people refer to as 3:1 and the confusing 3:1 that some people refer to as 4:1 sets. Not sure who started this 4:1 moniker, but is sure has made it confusing.
Good idea.
It would be nice if you can say that all the HL style gearboxes would take the same bearing kit to replace the bushings. I tend to think that is the case.
The gear shafts pretty much all have the same bushings so those will most likely get the same bearing.
The only hassle I can imagine is the final drive shaft... there might be different sizes but even that's unlikely.
It would be nice if you can say that all the HL style gearboxes would take the same bearing kit to replace the bushings. I tend to think that is the case.
The gear shafts pretty much all have the same bushings so those will most likely get the same bearing.
The only hassle I can imagine is the final drive shaft... there might be different sizes but even that's unlikely.
09-25-2014, 02:15 PM
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Hi Erik
Yes, would love to be able to add bearings to the HL steel gearboxes as an easy retrofit. Have 5 sets & was not looking forward to replacing them with the new bearinged GB's.
Mal
PS Did you get my email?
Yes, would love to be able to add bearings to the HL steel gearboxes as an easy retrofit. Have 5 sets & was not looking forward to replacing them with the new bearinged GB's.
Mal
PS Did you get my email?
09-25-2014, 02:47 PM
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Post a pic, it will take all of one little peek to tell you what you have
Problem for me is (and no idea who else is in the same boat) that when I bought the gearboxes for the StuG III, it was so long ago, and so many different products are on the market, I have no clue what I've got anymore. (ok, the order sheet MIGHT be in my email somewhere) I know some of you more avid guys can ID gearboxes by sight, but I certainly can't. If you sold bearings based on what gearbox the consumer had, that would make anyone in the same positions life easier.
09-25-2014, 03:06 PM
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Hey tankers,
Just by chance, IF I could get some sets of bearings in stock would you guys be interested? I could possibly stock both the small and big bearings needed for gearboxes, but I would like to get some feedback from you guys. These would be direct replacements for the bushings on the reduction gears and the final drive shaft. Just a yes or no would be fine Thanks!
Just by chance, IF I could get some sets of bearings in stock would you guys be interested? I could possibly stock both the small and big bearings needed for gearboxes, but I would like to get some feedback from you guys. These would be direct replacements for the bushings on the reduction gears and the final drive shaft. Just a yes or no would be fine
Thanks!
09-26-2014, 04:04 AM
#14
Thread Starter
Yes I did, I had to locate a M41 chassis. I'll be contacting you soon today about the screws.
09-26-2014, 04:22 AM
#15
I also agree that it's strange to say the least, so I have an idea - What we now call 3:1 and 4:1 are only different because the 4:1 has that extra gearshaft at the pinion on the motor, making 4 gearshafts instead of 3, so what if, instead of calling them 3:1 and 4:1 (totally inaccurate as far as gear ratio goes), we call them 3-shaft and 4-shaft gearboxes?
09-26-2014, 05:14 AM
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The gearboxes from Heng long were considered Standard gears. 3:1 came about because when the extra gear was added the ratio, and final shaft output speed was reduced by 3. Forum member Perry designed the reduced gear set, and referred to them as 3:1 because of the relationship to the original gears.
Someone then started calling the standard gear sets 3:1 and the extra shaft gear box 4:1 loosing all touch with the gear ratios. This is where all the confusion started. 4:1 gears are exactly the same as the 3:1
That Pandora's box is open now so your idea of relating this number to the shafts involved is at least sensible and accurate, and may help clear up the confusion. I would hate to think someone spent money on 4:1 gears thinking they were getting something different then the 3:1
Someone then started calling the standard gear sets 3:1 and the extra shaft gear box 4:1 loosing all touch with the gear ratios. This is where all the confusion started. 4:1 gears are exactly the same as the 3:1
That Pandora's box is open now so your idea of relating this number to the shafts involved is at least sensible and accurate, and may help clear up the confusion. I would hate to think someone spent money on 4:1 gears thinking they were getting something different then the 3:1
09-27-2014, 12:14 AM
#19
Yes...I'd be interested. Would also like some to retrofit the "older" brass GBs. You say you're coming out with new ones, but for many of us it would be more cost effective to put bearings in the boxes we have and get the improved thing on future builds.
09-28-2014, 06:30 AM
#22
Define "exact". I could measure it (the shaft OD) here with my ten-dollar-harbor-freight calipers, or I could take it to work and mic it with a mititoyo 0-1, but about .0002 - .0003 is the closest I can get to exact. I've swapped gears on these shafts before and then I found the stock press fit to be very accurate, just a couple tenths (a tenth is .0001) difference between the OD of the shaft and the ID of the gear. In my business we call that "a light press fit". So again, how close do you have to be?
Last edited by Max-U52; 09-28-2014 at 06:33 AM.
09-28-2014, 07:54 AM
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Define "exact". I could measure it (the shaft OD) here with my ten-dollar-harbor-freight calipers, or I could take it to work and mic it with a mititoyo 0-1, but about .0002 - .0003 is the closest I can get to exact. I've swapped gears on these shafts before and then I found the stock press fit to be very accurate, just a couple tenths (a tenth is .0001) difference between the OD of the shaft and the ID of the gear. In my business we call that "a light press fit". So again, how close do you have to be?
09-28-2014, 08:51 AM
#24
Why didn't ya say so?
That's easy. The answer is yes, you can swap the bushings for bearings with no mods. Just pop out the bushings and the bearings fit right into the same hole, and the axle shafts are all the same diameter so they'll go in either the bushings or the bearings. At least, that's the way it's supposed to work. I imagine every once in a while you get a shaft that's a little big or something like that, but it's usually a direct replacement.
EDIT: You do have to press the gear off the shaft to change the bearing, though. If you have trouble with that PM me and maybe I can make a little video showing how to do it. It's not hard. I think Erik might be making a video like that, and that would be cool cuz he's much better at making videos than I am.
That's easy. The answer is yes, you can swap the bushings for bearings with no mods. Just pop out the bushings and the bearings fit right into the same hole, and the axle shafts are all the same diameter so they'll go in either the bushings or the bearings. At least, that's the way it's supposed to work. I imagine every once in a while you get a shaft that's a little big or something like that, but it's usually a direct replacement.
EDIT: You do have to press the gear off the shaft to change the bearing, though. If you have trouble with that PM me and maybe I can make a little video showing how to do it. It's not hard. I think Erik might be making a video like that, and that would be cool cuz he's much better at making videos than I am.
Last edited by Max-U52; 09-28-2014 at 08:57 AM.