Haydino

Hey all, been ages since my last post, got out the KT after it being stored away for a few months. After looking on the forum at all these realistically weathered tanks i thought i'd give it ago.
So far i've done a just a wash with a acrylic based brown that i mixed up,

It's dulled down the "Sheen" that the tank had from brand new, which is what I hoped it would do.

I also applied this over the decals to dull it down and take away that "freshness" to the decals. Need to finish of the engine deck, at least you can see the difference in the wash and prewash.


I'd like to weather this further still, i've never used weathering powders before, but am keen giving them ago, anyone got any tips for applying them etc?

Rustytrax

I use pigments last. You may want to look into some sponge chipping applications to add detail. Then get a fine brush and apply a wash to every seem. Once you get that to your liking dull coat the tank before you apply pigments. If you apply to much (easy to do) you can get it off and not ruin the work already done.
Remember if you dull coat after pigments any light areas will be absorbed by the dull coat. You may need to reapply.

BludoTheSmelly

I didnt get that one because of the shinyness of the camo. Yours looks a lot nicer i will admit. I got the other one looks good out in the dead grass of fall.

Haydino

Sorry for the late reply, I think that they redone the camouflage, I recall as you said it being rather shiny, however when i bought mine it was rather dull from the factory. Maybe they've changed it?

BludoTheSmelly

Not sure

Marc780

It depends how subtle you want the weathering...you have it right. Seems to me like there's only 3 or 4 grades of weathering that can be done - factory fresh or close to it grade, moderately weathered with a dent and shot damage here and there grade, and near destruction. Although there is no scale water, there's no reason there can't be scale weathering, I think. Since you can always go further but so hard to go back-I repainted my King tiger 7 times before I was satisfied with just the base colors-I like to start with dry brushing with lighter colors over dark and vice versa. If done for the purpose of blending colors, it is almost imperceptible to the eye and appears as a fade/feather in the middle of a color- but you can't tell where it begins or ends. When done by people who are really good at it this is the best kind, hard to learn and difficult to teach, and the kind of weathering that makes you look twice at a model and wonder how he did it.

On armor/tanks drybrushing is probably where to start, and the first step is simple, the hard part is knowing when to stop and leave it be. For the German multi camo use the opposite color. The sand gelb gets brown, brown gets sand, green gets a bit of both since there'd be no reason for green stains. On a solid color armor, the base color with white added at first, if you can just begin to notice the color change that is about right. Then the same thing with black. For the road wheels, there's no substitute maybe, for a wash or filter, I like the arroyo brand burnt umber. Brush it on, dab off the wet part. Let it dry, if more highlighting desired, repeat once or twice. Don't brush this stuff on then simply let it dry, the carrier will leave stains instead of color, and that is probably not what you want.

Haydino

Hey Marc, thanks for all the great tips!, I think I'll do a little more weathering, It still looks too factory fresh for me!

Haydino

Just a quick update, i decided to add some mud to the tank, I think that it came out pretty well.

Rear end