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Another Panzer III question

Old 10-20-2014, 11:01 AM
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Drew67
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Default Another Panzer III question

Waiting on my clark board for my Panzer lll. So I want to start replacing other parts like the tools, guess there are no easy ways to get the molded tools off other than a grinder or razor knife any suggestions? I also want to replace the few engine hatches/hatches with the metal ones, any hints on getting them off other than a razor knife?
Old 10-20-2014, 11:10 AM
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Strato50
 
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Removing molded on stuff is a huge pain... although it's easier than working with metal! Dremel and a cut-off disk... and a very steady hand.

Hatches I've had success in the same way.. Dremel and a cutting bit, then make it pretty with a file.
Old 10-20-2014, 11:42 AM
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jarndice
 
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Drew, the engine hatches I removed by drilling a hole with my dremel at each corner then I used an x-acto keyhole saw and finished with a Drapers modelling file, I should mention that the hinges that come with the engine doors will probably need a lot of work to get them free enough so that the doors open fully. removing the tools are as you say a pain although once you get under the tool it peels off if you take care. shaun

Last edited by jarndice; 10-20-2014 at 11:45 AM.
Old 10-20-2014, 12:14 PM
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Drew67
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Thanks guys, good thing I have a dremel already.
Old 10-20-2014, 02:38 PM
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I just did that to a Tiger One. just like the guys said, dremel and a steady hand. I was painting the whole tank anyway so that made sanding easier as I could use a small block to finish. Here's the before and after video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7taqJm2l38
Old 10-20-2014, 06:40 PM
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Dremel just the hinges on the hatches, then cut them out previously described. You'll need some sheet styrene for under the hinges so that they have a shelf to rest on. Someone on here suggesting using duct tape to protect the area around the hinges or tools from the grinding.

Just a note...if you grind off the tools, you'll need to fill in the tread plate on the fenders. The only option I know of for doing this is the Aber photo etch. Best way to do that is to remove the molded tread plate on the fender and replace it with the photo etch. Panzer IIIs used a dotted tread plate; so, the standard diamond plate available in styrene won't be accurate.
Old 10-20-2014, 07:10 PM
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Drew67
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This is outstanding, Since I've started this I have anice start on my own how-to book, thanks guys.
Old 10-20-2014, 07:29 PM
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Drew
dremel is the only answer
go slightly below the top skin and fill the hole in with green putty from Squadron, then sand it down with 280 grit paper. I personally have found that if you try hard to keep it perfect that is when you mess up and go right through with a dremel. when you have a decent filler it really does take the pressure off to making a perfect grind spot around the tool. Once sanded I gaurantee you can't tell you ever ground a molded tool off. Just remember, if you can feel any bumps or spots with your finger tips then it will show through the paint.
Old 10-20-2014, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by philipat
Dremel just the hinges on the hatches, then cut them out previously described. You'll need some sheet styrene for under the hinges so that they have a shelf to rest on. Someone on here suggesting using duct tape to protect the area around the hinges or tools from the grinding.

Just a note...if you grind off the tools, you'll need to fill in the tread plate on the fenders. The only option I know of for doing this is the Aber photo etch. Best way to do that is to remove the molded tread plate on the fender and replace it with the photo etch. Panzer IIIs used a dotted tread plate; so, the standard diamond plate available in styrene won't be accurate.
Both ARCHERS and PEDDINGHAUS make TREAD PATTERN decals which is a viable alternative to PE. shaun

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