ATTN: Mod Squad, metal lower hull for jagdpanther arrives. Let's open the box!
10-27-2014, 07:12 PM
#26
Gary,
No worries, I liked both videos. Thanks for making them. Are the axles for the road wheels brass or steel? If they're steel, one way to avoid losing the caps is to epoxy a small rare earth magnet inside it before you attach it. I did that with my sprocket caps on my PzIII...just in case the glue lets go.
Oh, personal opinion, but I don't worry too much about track tension before painting, except for testing the road worthiness. I like to leave the tracks fully built and just move the idler all the way in to remove them. Makes it easier than de-pinning them or pulling off the sprocket.
Is your Panther G using Taigen electronics? The HL 2.4 is trash...no proportional control. I was very disappointed when I tried one. Your steel gearboxes will be easier to lock a track because it takes more to get it going than does the brass gearbox. This gives you a little more of that low-end control. Your electronics may come into play as well. But, if both the Jagdpanther and the Panther G are using Taigen electronics, then the difference is more likely the gearbox rather than track tension. BTW...the Panther's tracks look way to loose when compared to period photos.
I'm watching your work with this hull keenly. I'm looking at it as a base for a future Panther G (early) build. Very impressed so far. Thanks for the detailed review.
No worries, I liked both videos. Thanks for making them. Are the axles for the road wheels brass or steel? If they're steel, one way to avoid losing the caps is to epoxy a small rare earth magnet inside it before you attach it. I did that with my sprocket caps on my PzIII...just in case the glue lets go.
Oh, personal opinion, but I don't worry too much about track tension before painting, except for testing the road worthiness. I like to leave the tracks fully built and just move the idler all the way in to remove them. Makes it easier than de-pinning them or pulling off the sprocket.
Is your Panther G using Taigen electronics? The HL 2.4 is trash...no proportional control. I was very disappointed when I tried one. Your steel gearboxes will be easier to lock a track because it takes more to get it going than does the brass gearbox. This gives you a little more of that low-end control. Your electronics may come into play as well. But, if both the Jagdpanther and the Panther G are using Taigen electronics, then the difference is more likely the gearbox rather than track tension. BTW...the Panther's tracks look way to loose when compared to period photos.
I'm watching your work with this hull keenly. I'm looking at it as a base for a future Panther G (early) build. Very impressed so far. Thanks for the detailed review.
10-27-2014, 10:58 PM
#27
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I wondered about that myself, Chief, and I had to convince myself that the roadwheels really do come with it. They do, though, and I'm really glad I bought it. I think he expects me to pay the postage, because today I emailed him and asked for a tracking number for the correct gearbox. He said he would post it tomorrow and wanted me to send a tracking number for the set being returned. I'm not totally sure I want to send these until I get the right ones.
Kizwan, tried the HL 2.4, not good. I'm putting the Taigen back in it, as that works much better.
Philip, here, finally, is what you asked for. I'll get a little more detail when I paint. Still trying to get track length and idler tension set right.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JxS4xarHQ0
Kizwan, tried the HL 2.4, not good. I'm putting the Taigen back in it, as that works much better.
Philip, here, finally, is what you asked for. I'll get a little more detail when I paint. Still trying to get track length and idler tension set right.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JxS4xarHQ0
Last edited by kizwan; 10-27-2014 at 11:37 PM.
10-28-2014, 06:44 AM
#28
Thread Starter
Philip, the shafts appear to be steel, and the G uses taigen electronic so I agree that the difference is mainly the gearboxes. I think I may one day upgrade this to hobby grade electronics, even though it will always be an airsoft tank. Also, I know the tracks on the G are way too loose, but it drives so well I don't think I'll mess with it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! 
I can definitely recommend this hull. So far I can't really find any flaws and I'm VERY glad I bought it. Now I have to decide what to do with the G, but I'm pretty sure it will keep the hull its got and just get metal roadwheels, asiatam if I can afford it, and mato if not.
Kizwan, No, the HL 2.4 wouldn't lock a track, but that's mainly because of the boxes. The HL 2.4 works fine in the mato PIII so that's where it will stay for now.
Now to take everything apart and get some paint on it! Then I have a couple ideas inspired by Norm for the smoke unit and I think when I get it all together it will be pretty cool. I'll keep ya posted.
I can definitely recommend this hull. So far I can't really find any flaws and I'm VERY glad I bought it. Now I have to decide what to do with the G, but I'm pretty sure it will keep the hull its got and just get metal roadwheels, asiatam if I can afford it, and mato if not. Kizwan, No, the HL 2.4 wouldn't lock a track, but that's mainly because of the boxes. The HL 2.4 works fine in the mato PIII so that's where it will stay for now.
Now to take everything apart and get some paint on it! Then I have a couple ideas inspired by Norm for the smoke unit and I think when I get it all together it will be pretty cool. I'll keep ya posted.
10-28-2014, 09:16 PM
#29
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Gary, about the Taigen 2.4GHz, can you get the tank running at low speed? I mean when you initially start moving the tank, is it easy to start at low speed? The HL 2.4GHz start speed is too fast, it's hard to start at low speed.
10-28-2014, 09:28 PM
#30
Thread Starter
Kizwan, go back to the first page, down to the group of five videos, watch the last of the five, click in at 2:04 and you'll see two slow starts. I think it's pretty easy to get slow starts. I'm seriously considering upgrading the electronics on this, even though it's an airsoft tank. Right now it's disassembled for paint. Already drilled and tapped for two more screws in each gearbox.
10-29-2014, 02:50 AM
#32
Thread Starter
They say clark is the best, but I know there are several different clark boards, so now I have something new to learn about. I looked at the mako, and if I had just HL tanks I'd go that route but for Taigen I think Clark is probably the way to go.
I looked at the mako, and if I had just HL tanks I'd go that route but for Taigen I think Clark is probably the way to go.
10-29-2014, 03:30 AM
#33
The Taigen electronics are good for slow starts. It really helps to have gear-reducing gear boxes, like the brass boxes or 4-shaft boxes. They allow better low-end control.
Look at the SLUs as another electronics option.
Look at the SLUs as another electronics option.
10-29-2014, 03:35 AM
#34
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The clark boards are definitely the way to go. I just got mine from (Curtis) at www.Immortalhobbies.com
good guy to deal with, outstanding customer service and definitely worth the price.
good guy to deal with, outstanding customer service and definitely worth the price.
10-29-2014, 06:11 PM
#35
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10-29-2014, 06:36 PM
#36
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Man, the Roadwheels do look Sweet...
Almost Too Purty To Paint!
If you were to Buff them out to a Mirror Shine then ArmorAll the Tires...
They'd make some Hot Mag Wheels...
-gus
Almost Too Purty To Paint!
If you were to Buff them out to a Mirror Shine then ArmorAll the Tires...
They'd make some Hot Mag Wheels...
-gus
10-29-2014, 08:16 PM
#37
Nice video. Thanks for making it.
One thing that I've learned from my experience with my PzIII metal road wheels is that once the press fit lets go, you have to glue it back. They won't stay press fit together again. It looks like it relied on the "nail head" to hold them together with the ball bearing in place. Once the ball bearing slipped out of place, the road wheel will be free to do the same. Might want to consider carefully gluing the bearing and roadwheel back together (JB Weld or something).
Crazy question: what are the diameter and rough length (without taking any of the wheels apart ) of the axles? The steel option may have applications elsewhere. 
I like the set. Sounds like you got a great deal on the whole thing, too. How's your gearbox mix-up working out?
One thing that I've learned from my experience with my PzIII metal road wheels is that once the press fit lets go, you have to glue it back. They won't stay press fit together again. It looks like it relied on the "nail head" to hold them together with the ball bearing in place. Once the ball bearing slipped out of place, the road wheel will be free to do the same. Might want to consider carefully gluing the bearing and roadwheel back together (JB Weld or something).
Crazy question: what are the diameter and rough length (without taking any of the wheels apart
) of the axles? The steel option may have applications elsewhere. I like the set. Sounds like you got a great deal on the whole thing, too. How's your gearbox mix-up working out?
10-30-2014, 04:15 AM
#38
Thread Starter
Gus, that's why I haven't painted my mato PIII. It looks pretty cool in natural metal finish and I got to thinkin' that once you paint it it's pretty much indistinguishable from a plastic tank. Don't get me wrong, I prefer painting them, but for just this one I decided to leave the paint off. Can you tell what's wrong with this picture?
Philip, you're right that I'll have to glue that wheel so then I'll get you a length, but with my cheap calipers it measures .156 at the bearing surface so my guess would be that the blueprint says 4mm. The gear box thing is being taken care of. He's given me a tracking number for the replacements and has asked for one for the 3:1s going back. We still haven't talked about how he's going to pay for that but he's asked for a link to this thread so he can see the review so now he'll know I don't plan to pay for the return postage. I imagine he could give me a partial refund through paypal to cover postage, or maybe he might want to sell them to me at cost. I can't really use them as they are, but I have a four shaft box that has a brass gear for the fourth shaft, so I could just replace the zinc gears with the black steel and I could even swap axles to get a steel gear there, and then I'd basically have a four shaft black steel gearbox for a good price. I'm going to give him the link to the thread so now (if he reads this far) he'll know all my secrets concerning the gearbox snafu. So, Carson, what do you think? I'll bring it up in day or two if you don't, but know you should know that I will be taking care of this one way or another and you won't get burned. And these other guys might have lots of questions and business for you so it might be a good idea for you to just open an account here and become a forum member. It's free, and could benefit both your business and our hobby if you have a presence here.
Philip, you're right that I'll have to glue that wheel so then I'll get you a length, but with my cheap calipers it measures .156 at the bearing surface so my guess would be that the blueprint says 4mm. The gear box thing is being taken care of. He's given me a tracking number for the replacements and has asked for one for the 3:1s going back. We still haven't talked about how he's going to pay for that but he's asked for a link to this thread so he can see the review so now he'll know I don't plan to pay for the return postage. I imagine he could give me a partial refund through paypal to cover postage, or maybe he might want to sell them to me at cost. I can't really use them as they are, but I have a four shaft box that has a brass gear for the fourth shaft, so I could just replace the zinc gears with the black steel and I could even swap axles to get a steel gear there, and then I'd basically have a four shaft black steel gearbox for a good price. I'm going to give him the link to the thread so now (if he reads this far) he'll know all my secrets concerning the gearbox snafu.
So, Carson, what do you think? I'll bring it up in day or two if you don't, but know you should know that I will be taking care of this one way or another and you won't get burned. And these other guys might have lots of questions and business for you so it might be a good idea for you to just open an account here and become a forum member. It's free, and could benefit both your business and our hobby if you have a presence here.
10-30-2014, 05:49 AM
#39
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10-30-2014, 05:53 AM
#40
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Hi Gary,
Being busy this month as take time to fight for democracy in HK. I thanks for the detail review for those parts. it may helps Dominique and me.
As the 4:1 gearbox is on the way to you. And the 3:1 can be discusses as you wish.
You guys welcomes to email me if you are interested in this hull and wheels set. I`m also building a Panther F using this set up. I will post up here when I have time.
Being busy this month as take time to fight for democracy in HK. I thanks for the detail review for those parts. it may helps Dominique and me.
As the 4:1 gearbox is on the way to you. And the 3:1 can be discusses as you wish.
You guys welcomes to email me if you are interested in this hull and wheels set. I`m also building a Panther F using this set up. I will post up here when I have time.
10-30-2014, 06:02 AM
#41
Thread Starter
Hey Carson, didn't know you were already a member. I'm really glad to see you here, as all the guys will benefit from having another dealer we can turn to.
As for the rest of the mod squad, there you go guys, a direct connection to the guy selling the hulls, so if you want one Carson is the guy to see. He also has a sweet Opel Blitz I'm interested in, as well as lots more cool stuff. That's DKLM Tanks. I can honestly say that Carson has treated me quite fairly so far and I most definitely will do business with him again. We all know how hard it is to find dealers we can trust in this hobby, so here's another one. I know that for me, I ALWAYS prefer to deal with businesses that have a presence here on this forum, Like Curtis at Immortal Hobbies and Erik at Imex and now Carson at DKLM. There are a LOT more, and I'm sure I'll get around to spending a little money with them all eventually.
As for the rest of the mod squad, there you go guys, a direct connection to the guy selling the hulls, so if you want one Carson is the guy to see. He also has a sweet Opel Blitz I'm interested in, as well as lots more cool stuff. That's DKLM Tanks. I can honestly say that Carson has treated me quite fairly so far and I most definitely will do business with him again. We all know how hard it is to find dealers we can trust in this hobby, so here's another one. I know that for me, I ALWAYS prefer to deal with businesses that have a presence here on this forum, Like Curtis at Immortal Hobbies and Erik at Imex and now Carson at DKLM. There are a LOT more, and I'm sure I'll get around to spending a little money with them all eventually.
10-30-2014, 08:55 AM
#43
Carson, is there a difference between the Jagdpanther lower hull and the Panther lower hull sold at DKLM?
10-30-2014, 05:35 PM
#46
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...5-slu-wow.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...43019-slu.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...lu-system.html
11-01-2014, 10:55 AM
#48
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11-01-2014, 02:22 PM
#49
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OK, fellas, I'm calling the hull upgrade complete. Here she is as she sits right now. Still lots to do, like stowage and weathering, I think those freshly painted roadwheels need a good promodeller wash for starters, and then we'll go from there.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRgWnvZmLtA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRgWnvZmLtA
Last edited by Max-U52; 11-01-2014 at 02:25 PM.
11-02-2014, 10:01 PM
#50
Looks good. Nice video. You mentioned doing a gun elevation mod and a smoke mod. What were those? I'm particularly interested in the gun elevation mod. Are you using Taigen electronics?
Do all of your Taigen tanks require the track recoil to reload the airsoft gun? I have HL tanks with HL guns that have been upgraded to Taigen electronics. And, I don't seem to have this problem. I can hold the stick up on the controller and cycle through shots. I'm wondering if this is unique to the Taigen guns or the Dragon card.
Do all of your Taigen tanks require the track recoil to reload the airsoft gun? I have HL tanks with HL guns that have been upgraded to Taigen electronics. And, I don't seem to have this problem. I can hold the stick up on the controller and cycle through shots. I'm wondering if this is unique to the Taigen guns or the Dragon card.
