RichJohnson

I have a dx5e transmitter with digitial trim controls. Anybody know a good way to turn the tank lighting circuit on without completely jacking up your trim? I havent even turned mine on yet. I would be happy with just modding it and putting a switch of some sort inside or on on the MF.

edoubleaz

My Feedback: (1)

Same methods as your firing.

When you set the tank, try only moving the stick 3/4 of the way to the stop. Or set up your throws in the the Low mode (switch on front) and put it on high when done. Both Methods work on my transmitters.

Add buttons by soldering to the trim pots of each stick. One wire to the center, one to the travel direction. I still set the DMD with the above methods after to get an even Mg and Cannon fire.

RichJohnson

I tried soldering momentary push buttons ala the gun fireing way, to the throttle up and trim right trims, then pushed them and threw the stick right, tried all night different techniques, all get it is my tank running off in circles. Very frustrated with this part of the system.
im thinking about just geting a battery and put the lights on a different switch. What voltage are they?

ausf

Depending on the age of the kit, it could have actual bulbs or LEDs. Tamiya's option port is tapped into the battery, so you could assume 7.2, but I generally go with 8 volts when calculating for LEDs. I've set most of mine up with lights from the port direct, whether it's Notek, convoy or headlight. It serves as a good indication on whether it's powered on or not.

The only ones I still use the stick function are on the JS-2 and T-34 since it also effects the brake light function.

RichJohnson

So are you suggesting i move the lighting plug over to a differnt port on the mf?
I know there are a few unused ports on the mf, i will look to see if oneis just labeled option, is what what you mean?

ausf

It's been a long time since I've looked at the M4 MFU, but I'm pretty sure it has an option port which gives you steady power.

I'm not suggesting to move the light rig, because I don't know what that harness is like in terms of resistance, etc. Best bet is to use a multimeter and figure out what you want to do. If you don't want to use the switchable port, there are other options for lights.

Jeff489

My Feedback: (12)

Rich, I use an alternate method from above. I use the extra transmitter channel to control the lights. I use 8v lights, I run power to the lights, and then cut the positive wire and insert a Dimension engineering relay in series. Works very well.

Ex_Pat_Tanker

I use these for controlling lights on my Shermans, dirt cheap and easy to install. As Jeff said, plug it into your 5th channel and you are away.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ed_Switch.html

ausf

Thanks for that, just ordered a bunch. I've been meaning to order the pico switch for some time, didn't even think to check if HK had something similar. Of course they do at less that half the price shipped.

RichJohnson

Are you using the stock Tamiya light kit and doing this or making your own lighting circuit?
Are you powering from the MF option port or direct from a different battery?

Max-U52

Hey Martin, I'm going to experiment with these, so when they get here (two on the way) I'll let ya know how they are. Kevin's video explains them better than I could. Not sure if they'll work with other boards (yet).

http://rctanksaustralia.com/shop/ind...roducts_id=233