New guy needs help with Heng Long tanks
03-22-2015, 12:43 AM
#227
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Just found a good looking hungarian webshop. The price for the charger and a 4600mah battery would be US €83. Shipping is very fast because we are in the same city.
http://shop.modell.hu/akkupack-4600m...068131253.html
http://shop.modell.hu/tolto-thunder-...3-thunder.html
or maybe this? Which is better?
http://shop.modell.hu/ascend-ac-dc-u...nsz-tolto.html
edit: I ordered that battery pack and Thunder T6 charger. Free shipping.
http://shop.modell.hu/akkupack-4600m...068131253.html
http://shop.modell.hu/tolto-thunder-...3-thunder.html
or maybe this? Which is better?
http://shop.modell.hu/ascend-ac-dc-u...nsz-tolto.html
edit: I ordered that battery pack and Thunder T6 charger. Free shipping.
Last edited by Kanyhalos; 03-22-2015 at 01:59 AM.
03-22-2015, 06:39 AM
#228
Let us know how it turns out. I usually try to order as many extra batteries as I can afford until the shipping price increases, but that's because I'm a cheap buzzard and I want every penny I pay for when it comes to shipping. That's one thing I like about hobby king. They tell you how much weight you can add to your order before the shipping price jumps to the next highest level. I can be a real jerk about that, too, and I can't figure out why. Maybe I should be in therapy? 
03-22-2015, 08:48 AM
#230
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Alright folks, I tested the tank on rough terrain until the battery exhausted.
Please tell me how do you actually like it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcBg...ature=youtu.be
Please tell me how do you actually like it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcBg...ature=youtu.be
03-22-2015, 10:09 AM
#231
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New info:
When doing a hard turn on rough sand terrain to the right, the right tracks slipped off the sprocket wheel (yup, not from the idler). I don't exactly understand how could this happen, and I didn't even notice it, because the metal tracks are very rigid, and the tank were able to continue running. Actually the tracks came off the sprocket teeth and misaligned to rightwards. Really weird. Probably it got something from ground, e.g. a stick or a stone... or I dunno.
It's just really strange because I was driving without issues for like half an hour while I was not paying attention at all, I wasn't careful with the driving and put a very hard stress to my tank.
Yup, no tank is invincible. Even if its full metal. We need to be cautious while driving on mud or sand. Short grass is just fine.
When doing a hard turn on rough sand terrain to the right, the right tracks slipped off the sprocket wheel (yup, not from the idler). I don't exactly understand how could this happen, and I didn't even notice it, because the metal tracks are very rigid, and the tank were able to continue running. Actually the tracks came off the sprocket teeth and misaligned to rightwards. Really weird. Probably it got something from ground, e.g. a stick or a stone... or I dunno.
It's just really strange because I was driving without issues for like half an hour while I was not paying attention at all, I wasn't careful with the driving and put a very hard stress to my tank.
Yup, no tank is invincible. Even if its full metal. We need to be cautious while driving on mud or sand. Short grass is just fine.
03-23-2015, 03:11 PM
#232
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I have just upgraded my HL Tiger 1 to the Brass gearboxes, metal drive wheels and metal tracks, that was the good news. I have just put it all back together and when power is applied it daydreams but eventually starts, now the conundrum... since the upgrade push the control stick forward it goes right, backwards left, if you want to go forward you have to push the stick left and right for reverse!! Is the control unit fried or damaged in someway, should I try another HL unit or upgrade to the Clark TK22-T1 - your help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Thank you,
03-23-2015, 09:50 PM
#234
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Is it spinning around when you order it to move forward? Try to swap the cables of the motor plugs in the MFU and see what happens. As Roboticus_Prime said, probably your gearbox is faulty and one of the motors has the wires soldered reversed. Or if the tank is just running rightwards or leftwards, thats an other issue.
03-24-2015, 07:02 AM
#235
When my RX-18 fried, I lost reverse on my right motor. I tried reversing the plugs on the board, that reversed the problem. I then tried plugging my old gearbox to the board. Same issue. By your description, it sounds like you still have functionality, just the controls are messed up.
03-24-2015, 09:37 AM
#238
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I heard that new NiMH batteries should be charged for 16 hours in the very first time. That was back in the days with my old Nokia cell phones. Is this still true for NiMH batteries?
03-24-2015, 06:56 PM
#239
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Hello Kanyhalos,
No, when I push forward it goes left, reverse turns it right, left makes it go forward and right reverse... it worked perfectly with the original nylon gearboxes.
Hello Roboticus,
I think that something is messed up in the gearbox motors (there are two, one left, one right) as it was working fine before I installed the two new ones. I made sure that I wired per the MATO instructions and actually used the same wires so they did not even get removed from the CPU. No it is completely dead, I have charged the battery but no life in any of the electronics, so it may even need new switches. I asked about the Clark TS2 as if I am going to change the board is it better to use the opportunity to upgrade it at the same time?
Thanks for the advice to all of you, it is appreciated.
No, when I push forward it goes left, reverse turns it right, left makes it go forward and right reverse... it worked perfectly with the original nylon gearboxes.
Hello Roboticus,
I think that something is messed up in the gearbox motors (there are two, one left, one right) as it was working fine before I installed the two new ones. I made sure that I wired per the MATO instructions and actually used the same wires so they did not even get removed from the CPU. No it is completely dead, I have charged the battery but no life in any of the electronics, so it may even need new switches. I asked about the Clark TS2 as if I am going to change the board is it better to use the opportunity to upgrade it at the same time?
Thanks for the advice to all of you, it is appreciated.
03-24-2015, 08:45 PM
#241
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Hello Kanyhalos,
No, when I push forward it goes left, reverse turns it right, left makes it go forward and right reverse... it worked perfectly with the original nylon gearboxes.
Hello Roboticus,
I think that something is messed up in the gearbox motors (there are two, one left, one right) as it was working fine before I installed the two new ones. I made sure that I wired per the MATO instructions and actually used the same wires so they did not even get removed from the CPU. No it is completely dead, I have charged the battery but no life in any of the electronics, so it may even need new switches. I asked about the Clark TS2 as if I am going to change the board is it better to use the opportunity to upgrade it at the same time?
Thanks for the advice to all of you, it is appreciated.
No, when I push forward it goes left, reverse turns it right, left makes it go forward and right reverse... it worked perfectly with the original nylon gearboxes.
Hello Roboticus,
I think that something is messed up in the gearbox motors (there are two, one left, one right) as it was working fine before I installed the two new ones. I made sure that I wired per the MATO instructions and actually used the same wires so they did not even get removed from the CPU. No it is completely dead, I have charged the battery but no life in any of the electronics, so it may even need new switches. I asked about the Clark TS2 as if I am going to change the board is it better to use the opportunity to upgrade it at the same time?
Thanks for the advice to all of you, it is appreciated.
One of member in our local rc tank forum also got this problem. I mistakenly advice him to swap the cables in the transmitter because the tank was out of the box like that.
Last edited by kizwan; 03-24-2015 at 08:50 PM.
03-26-2015, 11:18 AM
#242
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Hey guys,
I need some help from someone with knowledge of electricity. As it is seen on the pictures, I created a custom plug for my charger, for the asiatam lower hull charging socket. I didn't want to destroy the original one so I used a simple two-way connector to attach the wires together.
On the end of the cable, I'm using a universal connector socket, I could change the connector to an other one.
But I noticed that it is also possible to shift polarity in that universal connector. It is very strange, if you look at it, you can see that the white cable is the minus, and the left side of the connector is minus.
But if I rotate the connector to the other side, the left side of the connector is minus again.
On the connector, there is a mark between the polarity markings, it's a circle and a bit bigger half-circle.
That mark persists on both sides but the half-circle is in the opposite side of the little circle on the other side of the connector. I hope it is clear what I'm trying to say.
The question is, did I assemble the connector with the right polarity or do I have to reverse it? What are those strange circle markings? Why is the minus is on the left side of the connector on both sides?
I don't understand. I'm not an electrician.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I need some help from someone with knowledge of electricity. As it is seen on the pictures, I created a custom plug for my charger, for the asiatam lower hull charging socket. I didn't want to destroy the original one so I used a simple two-way connector to attach the wires together.
On the end of the cable, I'm using a universal connector socket, I could change the connector to an other one.
But I noticed that it is also possible to shift polarity in that universal connector. It is very strange, if you look at it, you can see that the white cable is the minus, and the left side of the connector is minus.
But if I rotate the connector to the other side, the left side of the connector is minus again.
On the connector, there is a mark between the polarity markings, it's a circle and a bit bigger half-circle.
That mark persists on both sides but the half-circle is in the opposite side of the little circle on the other side of the connector. I hope it is clear what I'm trying to say.
The question is, did I assemble the connector with the right polarity or do I have to reverse it? What are those strange circle markings? Why is the minus is on the left side of the connector on both sides?
I don't understand. I'm not an electrician.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Kanyhalos; 03-26-2015 at 11:22 AM.
03-26-2015, 01:42 PM
#247
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Sorry I just saw the last picture and understand your confusion on it. I didn't see the see the problem at first.
It looks like that is a universal adapter. If that is the case unplug it and get reading off of the socket with a multimeter figure out which lead is giving you jiuce. Then line up the arrow and see on the socket with the plug. The indicators for positive and negative should be the same at that point.
On that note that plug look a bit small for you to be using as a viable charging solution. I would recommend that you use a beefier plug. I don't think that one will be able to handle the load that your going to try to put through it.
If your set on chargin in the tank I think your better off making a plug out of the same type of connetctor that your tank uses on the battery. You just make a three way connector. the pice that runs to the charger, connecter to the battery and bridging over to the tank. That way when you plug in the charge will go to the battery.and it is already connected to the tank. unplug, turn on and go.
But really your better off just taking out of the tank and charging. unless you got some kind of wild and crazy setup going on insde the tank.
Bill
It looks like that is a universal adapter. If that is the case unplug it and get reading off of the socket with a multimeter figure out which lead is giving you jiuce. Then line up the arrow and see on the socket with the plug. The indicators for positive and negative should be the same at that point.
On that note that plug look a bit small for you to be using as a viable charging solution. I would recommend that you use a beefier plug. I don't think that one will be able to handle the load that your going to try to put through it.
If your set on chargin in the tank I think your better off making a plug out of the same type of connetctor that your tank uses on the battery. You just make a three way connector. the pice that runs to the charger, connecter to the battery and bridging over to the tank. That way when you plug in the charge will go to the battery.and it is already connected to the tank. unplug, turn on and go.
But really your better off just taking out of the tank and charging. unless you got some kind of wild and crazy setup going on insde the tank.
Bill
Last edited by sergeantseabass; 03-26-2015 at 01:52 PM. Reason: I'm dumb
03-26-2015, 03:09 PM
#249
Unless there's an extreme reason that removing a battery is too much of a hassle, you'll find charging inside is ultimately shortsighted.
Even if you're not battling with someone, but having a nice run in the park, etc, wouldn't it be easier to pull a spare battery out of your pocket and continue on?
Even if you're not battling with someone, but having a nice run in the park, etc, wouldn't it be easier to pull a spare battery out of your pocket and continue on?