View Poll Results: What battery connectors do you use?
Stock Tamiya Connector
25
32.47%
Deans/T-Plug
37
48.05%
XT60/XT90
13
16.88%
Bullet Connectors
7
9.09%
Other (please post what you use)
6
7.79%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 77. You may not vote on this poll
Poll: What battery connectors do you use?
#1
Thread Starter
Poll: What battery connectors do you use?
Hey tankers,
I was thinking about making up some new power cables but I was wanting to know what is the most commonly used connector here on the forums. I personally like XT60 or Deans (T-Plug in some places) on my tanks, but I know others may run different plugs. What plugs do you use?
I was thinking about making up some new power cables but I was wanting to know what is the most commonly used connector here on the forums. I personally like XT60 or Deans (T-Plug in some places) on my tanks, but I know others may run different plugs. What plugs do you use?
#3
Thread Starter
Well I was thinking of making a few power switches for the tanks with some new connectors already attached. I personally do not care for the Tamiya connectors, they aren't always the easiest to plug in. The Deans connectors are a bit easier, but I find if you have the space for XT60 plugs they are actually really nice. I am in the process of swapping some of my XT60's now to test and see how many amps I can put through them before they start getting warm.
#4
My opinion, Tamiya and Bullet connectors "work" but are old school and not a serious entry into the performance side of the hobby, anywhere.
Jeff
Jeff
#5
I stick with stock Tamiya for the sheer fact that I have at least 15 batteries and am not about to change them.
They never come apart, but yes, if a male leans to the side while plugging in, it will get stuck. Not ideal, but again, not going to change out over 20 batts, DMDs, etc. plus airsoft too.
On the lipos in the Ketten, Kubel and Schwimm, I use high quality aftermarket, positively locking clips. Not messing around with the JSTs that come on the Turnigys I use.
Loose pin, big fire.
I had a 850 short on me one night up on the 3rd floor of my house because a lead slipped in the housing. In about a third of a second, my eyes went from the pack to the window, to the fire extinguisher to the wire cutters which all were the same distance from me. Not wanting to chase it into the backyard and put out what fire it started (or explain to my wife what the heck was going on), or trusting that the extinguisher would be enough (or wanting the mess), I grabben the cutters and lopped off the lead and dropped it in a metal can. Luckily that was it, just a warm hand as I walked it outside and left it in the Weber for the night.
They never come apart, but yes, if a male leans to the side while plugging in, it will get stuck. Not ideal, but again, not going to change out over 20 batts, DMDs, etc. plus airsoft too.
On the lipos in the Ketten, Kubel and Schwimm, I use high quality aftermarket, positively locking clips. Not messing around with the JSTs that come on the Turnigys I use.
Loose pin, big fire.
I had a 850 short on me one night up on the 3rd floor of my house because a lead slipped in the housing. In about a third of a second, my eyes went from the pack to the window, to the fire extinguisher to the wire cutters which all were the same distance from me. Not wanting to chase it into the backyard and put out what fire it started (or explain to my wife what the heck was going on), or trusting that the extinguisher would be enough (or wanting the mess), I grabben the cutters and lopped off the lead and dropped it in a metal can. Luckily that was it, just a warm hand as I walked it outside and left it in the Weber for the night.
#6
Thread Starter
Personally I have had more than a few Tamiya connectors actually melt on me, but that was my fault pushing more than 20A through. The reason I asked is because more and more people are asking me for lipo compatible stuff and I was wondering what plugs to make up on some power switches. Deans and XT60 seem to be the most popular. They just do not wish to solder a power connector themselves or use an adapter like you see in most my videos. I'll just make a few of each one and see how it goes
#7
Nah, I hear ya, I'd probably go Deans if I was going from scratch and I'm not shy regarding soldering (I got a bunch of schurzen and even some deck railing to prove it), just not going to retrofit all of that gear unless absolutely necessary.
#8
Thread Starter
Oh absolutely. I am dreading swapping all of mine, that is why I am just testing atm I also see nothing wrong with an adapter either as there is very little current going through them. Have you tried the XT60 connectors yet? They really aren't bad at all, I actually like the connection process compared to the Deans plug. I admit I was hesitant to try them, but I like them so far. It is also nice not to have exposed male connectors too, I use my DC power supply a lot and with a metal desk I can't use them.
#10
I build 1/10 r/c scale aircraft as well as 1/16 r/c armour So I have over the years found myself with a cardboard box full of adaptors, not the perfect answer but at least I do not have to think twice about buying a particular battery, having a decent NI-CD/NI-MH/LI-PO charger becomes essential though.shaun
#11
I only run a group of 3 or 4 batteries at one time. When they start to fail or are in need of replacement, the investment to switch over isn't that great.
I started in carpet racing and migrated over to RC boats. Talk about fire control! Heat is the enemy here in boats and was my decision then to use a quality plug when I moved into tanks.
Jeff
I started in carpet racing and migrated over to RC boats. Talk about fire control! Heat is the enemy here in boats and was my decision then to use a quality plug when I moved into tanks.
Jeff
#12
Thread Starter
I have around 20-30 batteries and keeping track of them is a PITA! I am trying to weed them out, but I always find uses for batteries around my house. Even my dog is lipo powered now
#13
I use the Tamiya connectors only for the convenience.I'm well ahware that the Deans connectors are much better but you also must be proficient at soldering to use them. I am but not everyone else is. Also i too have many packs with the Tamiya connectors so just never got around to converting. besides, I'm not running racers or drag strip RC cars so lightning quick power transfer is not my top priority and i will never use LIPO's in my tanks. I wont even bring those in the house. I don't trust me enough.
#14
I cut my teeth on soldering by learning basic bread-boarding and the elaborate remote controlled tanks we built using 1/35th Tamiya tanks. Later it came in handy later in my career when certain cars needed updating and wiring recalls.
Plus I did the occasional CD trunk install and sound system, radar detector installed in the dash cluster (totally concealed) and drive ability.
So soldering a few connectors comes easy for me.
Jeff
Plus I did the occasional CD trunk install and sound system, radar detector installed in the dash cluster (totally concealed) and drive ability.
So soldering a few connectors comes easy for me.
Jeff
#15
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Yep soldering is an art you only learn by doing over and over. I solder with rosin core, silver solder, even aluminum solder. Cleanliness, and the proper tools go a long way to learning.
And I come from the electric airplane group, the Tammy connectors are verboten on anything over there. You use Deans or 60/90's or Anderson Power poles.
Too many problems with the Tammy connectors, poor connections, can't handle larger amp loads, they went the way of brushed motors.
And I come from the electric airplane group, the Tammy connectors are verboten on anything over there. You use Deans or 60/90's or Anderson Power poles.
Too many problems with the Tammy connectors, poor connections, can't handle larger amp loads, they went the way of brushed motors.
#16
At the moment I'm Stuck(Until a Parts Shipment arrives in the mail) with a mix of Tamiya, Traxxas, Dean's and Bullet Connectors.
However after running Boats, Trucks and Tanks for a while and reading for an even longer while I'm transitioning to XT60 Connectors.
-gus
However after running Boats, Trucks and Tanks for a while and reading for an even longer while I'm transitioning to XT60 Connectors.
-gus
#18
The stock Tamiya connectors have been know to cause the momentarily drop out in the middle of a battle. This can either triggering the Electronics to reset, allowing you to take extra hits, or the tank just stops working until you "jiggle" the connectors.
Switched to Deans connectors years ago. In tanks where space is a premium (Pershing) they also make it easier when trying to clean up all the wires.
Switched to Deans connectors years ago. In tanks where space is a premium (Pershing) they also make it easier when trying to clean up all the wires.
#19
I don't have a problem with Tamiya. I think the XT-60's fit too tight and I feel I'm going to rip the connector off the wire on my battery and cable. I have a few spare power switches, so I could solder a new connector on and swap them out as I see fit. I'd more than likely use a Traxxas as they have a great fit and come apart easy.
#20
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I use the Deans connectors - they can be difficult to prize apart sometimes but give a nice positive connection. I also fly electric aircraft so the tamiya connector is a big no no.
I also run Lipo's with LVA's in my smaller 1/25th & 1/35th tanks and use the small plastic 2 pin red connector (don;'t know what it's called) that comes on the Lipo. Works a treat and of course saves space.
CaptB
I also run Lipo's with LVA's in my smaller 1/25th & 1/35th tanks and use the small plastic 2 pin red connector (don;'t know what it's called) that comes on the Lipo. Works a treat and of course saves space.
CaptB
#21
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I'm surprised these haven't been mentioned - E-Flite connectors.
Available in various sizes, with or without wire leads already connected.
Very secure and handle high amp loads.
I've used them in underwater communications units,RC tanks and boats and in dive lights.
Never a problem.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3910298...lpid=82&chn=ps
I use mostly the small EC3, very compact and rated at 60 continuous amps.
Available in various sizes, with or without wire leads already connected.
Very secure and handle high amp loads.
I've used them in underwater communications units,RC tanks and boats and in dive lights.
Never a problem.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3910298...lpid=82&chn=ps
I use mostly the small EC3, very compact and rated at 60 continuous amps.
Last edited by danlrc; 01-22-2015 at 05:26 AM.
#23
Thread Starter
I'm surprised these haven't been mentioned - E-Flite connectors.
Available in various sizes, with or without wire leads already connected.
Very secure and handle high amp loads.
I've used them in underwater communications units,RC tanks and boats and in dive lights.
Never a problem.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3910298...lpid=82&chn=ps
I use mostly the small EC3, very compact and rated at 60 continuous amps.
Available in various sizes, with or without wire leads already connected.
Very secure and handle high amp loads.
I've used them in underwater communications units,RC tanks and boats and in dive lights.
Never a problem.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3910298...lpid=82&chn=ps
I use mostly the small EC3, very compact and rated at 60 continuous amps.
#24
Thread Starter
I use the Deans connectors - they can be difficult to prize apart sometimes but give a nice positive connection. I also fly electric aircraft so the tamiya connector is a big no no.
I also run Lipo's with LVA's in my smaller 1/25th & 1/35th tanks and use the small plastic 2 pin red connector (don;'t know what it's called) that comes on the Lipo. Works a treat and of course saves space.
CaptB
I also run Lipo's with LVA's in my smaller 1/25th & 1/35th tanks and use the small plastic 2 pin red connector (don;'t know what it's called) that comes on the Lipo. Works a treat and of course saves space.
CaptB
#25
JST's are great just not big enough for power supply connections. Good solid bullets are really my favorite but they can be hard to get apart quickly too. all a matter of preference. Besides on all my Tamiya tanks and conversions I ditch the Y connector and solder the MFU and DMD power leads together and use only one plug anyway.