Roboticus_Prime

Welp, got the gears in, but looks like I managed to fry part of the RX18. The right motor wont reverse. I reversed the motors and it reversed the problem. Looks like it's time to buy a new one.

Max-U52

I've got a couple RX-18s layin' around. If you think it's the MFU then PM me. I'll send you one, you can make sure that's the trouble, then you can send a couple bucks my way. My system is even better than paypal, cuz you don't pay til after you get your stuff. Look around and get your best price for an RX-18 and then I'll make sure you get one for MUCH less. And postage from here is $6.

YHR

Make sure you have nothing binding in the gears or the tracks. For an RX18 to fail when it is hooked up to 4:1 gears is unusual, unless the motors that go along with that gear box draw way more current than stock motors. Typically the steel 4:1 run smooth, but it doesn't hurt to remove the motor and turn them by hand. Make sure they are not cogging, and that they free wheel nicely. If there is an issue somewhere, and you don't correct it, chances are you will fry another one

Roboticus_Prime

Good news everyone! I found a dirt cheap new RX-18 on eBay, and it arrived today! It has already been installed in the tank, and I'm fully functional again. Sorry Max, I had already bought it when you posted lol.

Now that I have two of them, I think I'll spend some time tinkering to eliminating the track recoil.

Max-U52

The quickest and easiest way to eliminate track recoil is with a Komodo+. Get it at RCTA for about $20 with free shipping. I have about 8 of them and they're just great.

Roboticus_Prime

This is true. I'll probably wind up getting one, I just want to try and have the capability to fire on the move.

Also, I found some T81 tracks for a Super Pershing... They just cost as much as a Taigen tank...

http://shop.aaftankmuseum.com/Produc...ductCode=84217

strmnd54

You can use the twin RX-18 boards to cancel the track recoil while firing on the move...
Use the broken RX-18 to power everything except the motors; and the new RX-18 to power the motors only...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1447734

Roboticus_Prime

That's the plan. Especially since the new RX-18 didn't come with the extra connection for the taillights.

Roboticus_Prime

Hey guys!

I my plans to tinker with my tank last weekend were put on hold, due to my truck deciding to need its rear brakes rebuilt (I hate drum brakes).

Anyhoo, I do have a track question.

When I installed the metal tracks that I ordered from IMEX, I put the extra link in each of them because 1: It let the suspension have more dynamic movement over obstacles and terrain, and 2: Debris wouldn't bind in the drive sprocket as much, and not tear up the plastic gears. The down side to this is that the track will hang very low when you pick the tank up.



On Monday night, I tried taking that extra link out. It was a very tight fit, and there was enough tension to pull the last road wheel up. Even without weight on the vehicle.
Is this normal, or did I do something wrong?

For now, I put the extra link back in, since I've had no problems running it this way.

Roboticus_Prime

I received a nice package in the mail yesterday. A "complete" metal suspension set, that I found on aliexpress. I say "complete" because the set was missing 2 return rollers and the screws to attach the idler arm to the front road wheel arm. My impatience got the better of me this time, because tankarmy.com now has the full set in stock. I now have two return rollers and a full set of metal shocks on order from tankarmy.




Tamyia metal primer.



While the primer was drying, I started taping up the road wheels so I wouldn't paint the rubber. I got two of them taped up before I noticed that the rubber tires were actually just a thin covering for a raised bit on the wheel. All that was needed to remove one was to use my finger nail to pull it away from the wheel.





Removing the tires didn't even take half the time it took to tape two of them. (And, I didn't even have all the tape on them yet!)



I didn't get pics of the parts painted with the Tamyia olive drab last night, since my pregnant fiance got home before the paint was dry. I'll try to get some for you guys tonight.

And don't worry TheBennyB, The sprockets got a coat of paint as well.

sergeantseabass

I think i know how your "complete" set was missing some pieces. The walker Bulldog uses the same set for the the lower suspension. Byt there are only 3 return rollers per side on the Bulldog as opposed to the Pershing. the Bulldog also only has 5 road wheels not 6. So i think that you got a Bulldog suspension by accident. Probably a shipping error. I actually just got my set for the Bulldog today.

Roboticus_Prime

Yeah, I thought that as well. Fortunately, I received the correct number of wheels and arms. I counted. Thrice. Did your set come with screws to attach the idler arm to the front torsion bar? Mine didn't and the stock ones wont work because they are threaded for plastic.

sergeantseabass

Yeah mine did they are in a very small bag. I hope I have enough. I'm working on trying to get the return rollers off right now. they look like they are press fit. no luck yet. You have an ideas on the best way to go about it

Roboticus_Prime

I used a flat screw driver to separate the wheels. Just put it in the groove and give it a twist. I then used a pair of pliers to twist the axle out of the hull. It takes very little force this way.

Does the M41 have the same idler setup as the Pershing?

http://tankarmy.com/heng-long-tank/p...ensions-p-1448

sergeantseabass

No the M41 doesn't have any kind of adjustable idler setup. I had to go and buy a Henntec setup for the track tension. I've got about the same amount of hang out of my tracks as well but I didn't put the extra tanks in. So i'll be installing that as well

http://www.rctank.de/HQ-US-M41-Track...metal-sprocket

It's well made but when i got the package in today the instructions are not in english. So figuring out where to drill the holes for the track tensioners is a pain. thanks for the tip though. i'll give it a shot

Roboticus_Prime

I think the M26 get away with it because the idler moves out when the front road wheel lifts up.

Well, that's better than what I got. I received a bunch of loose parts wrapped in bubble wrap, and no instructions. Needles to say, I will not be going that route again.

Always glad to help a fellow newbie tanker out!

sergeantseabass

The screws were the only thing that were wrapped and as it turns out not all of them were even in there. I got my suspension from rctankarmy. The only thing that i would say is be patient with the shipping. It took almost a month for my stuff to come in. Australia was not the problem. the states were since it came registered mail. Once it hit the port and shipped out you get zero info on where it is until they show up at your door to deliver it. On top of that you have to sign for it. Which wouldn't be that bad unless you don't have anyone at your house during the day.

good luck on yours. thanks again

Roboticus_Prime

Hey guys, It's update time!

I managed to work through installing the metal suspension over the weekend. Come to find out, you thread the screw holes yourself. So without further adieu, I give you my Metal HL M26!




You'll notice some "battle damage" on the edges of the wheels. I had a track throwing issue while reversing. The fix was simple a couple washers to shim the idler arms. (I tried getting pics, but the only camera I have is the potato one on my phone)

Anyhoo, this thing now weighs 10lbs! and is darn near unstoppable off road. If I wasn't waiting for Max-U52's MG mod to dry, I'd get you guys a video of the tank climbing the hill.

Next mod on the list is to brace the hull and add counter weight to the front.

sergeantseabass

I like it looks nice. looks like you got your track tension in that Sweet spot looking forward to seeing some video.

strmnd54

[QUOTENext mod on the list is to brace the hull and add counter weight to the front.[/QUOTE]

You can use " dead weight " or " active weight "...

Roboticus_Prime

Wow, that's an "active" lower hull! What all can that baby do?

Rustytrax

How is all that slack working out for you? I would think it would walk out of those tracks pretty easily. Then again you probably can slip them right back on.

Roboticus_Prime

I've only had it walk out of the tracks a few times while the new metal idlers were not aligned properly. There is actually not enough slack to remove, or install, the tracks without removing the upper hull and disassembling the drive sprockets. Which is another plus when I think about it. I'm real hesitant to use a hammer on a Heng Long tank lol.

I was more concerned about things like motor wear and battery life.

Roboticus_Prime

Welp, turns out that I lied. I took the tank for a test spin, and threw a track. Annoyed, I promptly tightened the tracks and took it for another spin. It didn't throw a track this time, but it did pull the rubber tire on the idler into the track groove... Again. These idlers have been a nuisance, but i suppose that's what I get for going cheap. I decided to shelve it for the night, and go play WoT.

strmnd54

I made my own spring mounted track tensioners for my Pershing almost 3 years ago...
I drove with plastic tracks and metal tracks as well and they are still doing the job...
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...-pershing.html