Max-U52

The slip ring has 12 wires and Erik tells me the right hand throttle makes it a flysky mode one, and I might be able to get a right side stick from a mode two, which is self centering and just swap out the non centering unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyxuUkbRosg

sergeantseabass

Nice I'm glad you got all the stuff. it looks like a good package. i might end up picking one of those up If i buy a gutted tank for a project. Let me know you thougts on the Clark and the radio

YHR

I believe you will want to get a self centering stick. I have tried running tanks with a ratched strick and it is awkward.


There should be a bind plug that you install on the battery connector pins on the recceiver. Press the bind button and turn on the radio.. The LED on the receiver will stop flashing and be solid on. Once you do that, power everything down, remove the bind plug from the receiver and you are good to go.

I made some resin self centering hardware that fit the HK radios, but I think they will be the same as what you have in this radio.

Here is another source for these

http://www.fingertechrobotics.com/pr...smitter-spring

Manual that will help. Disregard all the stuff about programming end point adjustments etc. .

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...X279221X26.pdf


The Hobby king radios are less than $30 and are basically an advanced version of this radio. They have proportional control of channels 5 and 6. This allows for easy servo elevation control. The manual link is to the HL T6A radio. You will see the similarity to the Mato radio. IF you are buying a RTR tank from Mato it makes sense to get all the Mato stuff as well, but if you are looking for an add on radio, I would strongly recommend the Hobbyking T6A.

Also the cost of these things will really get you asking yourself why you would buy a factory Taigen or Heng Long radio. These are so much better, and you can use them on any RC equipment you might be thinking about buying. .

olegnA

Awesome package, Gary.

Indeed, it feels like Christmas in March .

Airbrushler

Great Video Gary


let me know how that radio works might be a future purchase

Max-U52

Thanks, Guys. Dan, that's all very good info. I'm just a bit confused about the binding, though. After reading the manual you provided the link for it looks like I attach the bind plug to the battery port (as you say) and then plug my power supply (6v battery pack) to any other channel and then follow the procedure for binding (press and hold, power TX, etc). Does that sound accurate? I think you're right that the HK TX would be the way to go rather than the Mato for future tanks. I can get the clark from OKCTanks, and the radio from the HK USA warehouse and due to both places being in the US the shipping should be less for both than it is for the package from China. That would mean I could get the $154 mato package (TX/RX/Clark) for about $20 less including the shipping. I was really hoping for a package like this in the $100 to $125 range and your idea gets darn close, about $135 delivered. If all that turns out to be the case I do believe I've found my new electronics package. I totally agree that buying an HL tank and adding a TG electronics package is not the best option, but before this it was a relatively low cost way to get an old style (pre 2.4) HL tank on 2.4 GHz. I did that with four of my tanks, but now I have this option and I do believe it's gonna be the best way to go. With this option and a low cost HL Tiger tank one could realistically be Tamiya compatible and battle ready for less than $250 for a complete tank! Of course, upgrading to a better and longer range battle system would still be advisable, but on the whole I think this is going to be a very winning combination. And OKCTanks just posted that they now have clark boards in stock, so as long as they're the $95 I expect I think I have a winner in this package. Now for a bunch of overtime and I'll even be able to fund it.

Max-U52

I went ahead and ordered the self centering lever and including shipping from Canada to the US it was ten bucks. I checked out the installation info and it looks pretty much just like the 9X. Just undo the ratchet lever, slap in the lever and hook up the spring. This one even comes with the spring. For the 9X I had to cannibalize a spring from an old HL crystal TX.

And this led me to an idea for a project I'm going to start. How about servo controlled volume control? It won't work with this radio (no pots) but it should work well on the 9X. In standard 6 channel template mode (my firmware is tankER9X) it has a pot available, I think on channel 6 or 7, I'll have to check again. I'll have to work out the details, but I'm basically gonna use a servo with a gear and mount a gear on top of the volume know. Both will be on a small board for alignment. Turn the pot on the TX, the servo turns the gear and turns the volume knob (hopefully in an upward direction!). Now I guess I'll have to do Oddball's Sherman.

bradgreene

Gary, that plan of yours regarding the volume control will work.I did the same thing and it worked but decided that I don't change the volume too frequently that I removed it. The Turnigy 9X is a very versatile TX. I do use the same firmware as you, Tanker9X. What I did was added a scratch built MG in the turret of my Tiger and used the 3-pos switch on the Turnigy to select which MG I want to fire, the hull, the turret or both using a 3-pos slide switch controlled by a mini servo as a selector.

Dan is also spot on. You will want a self-centering left stick, it just makes life easier I wasn't aware of Dan's sources during that time so I got mine from Kevin of RCTankAustralia but it didn't come with the spring so I just made one out of a guitar string.

YHR

Yes the receiver will power up when the other servos are plugged in and the system powered up. You then Hold the bind button and turn on the radio( with the bind plug installed across the battery pins)

Just for your info the BARC4/Benedini combo has the ability for transmitter control of the volume. It is a user definable option when programming the Beni. The new BARC4 with its extra addresses allows this feature to be used. Typically once people get tired of the voices, you can switch these trigger positions for volume up and volume down in the parameter setting

Just a word of warning. All electronics have the ability to get cooked. The RX18 gets slagged a lot, and I live with that, but don't fool yourself into thinking the other packages are bullet proof because they can and do go up in smoke too. The IBU2 has a couple of onboard fuses to protect it. You might want to talk to Ian or Ivano and get a couple of spares for the IBU2. The Clark does not have an onboard fuse so you need to be cautious with it, IF tracks are jammed and you have some torquey motors the stall current can exceed the ratings on the electronics.

Max-U52

Hey Brad, I already got the self centering lever for the 9X, same place as you did, and for some reason the new radio has self centering on the left, it's the right that needs the lever. Erik tells me it's a non-US TX and that's the reason. Then we got into the whole "do you know why they drive on the left side in the UK and Italy? It's from way back when the Romans ruled the world and if you were going down the road you kept to the left so that your sword arm was towards the stranger passing you going in the opposite direction. Then the French peasants started pulling off to the right when the aristocracy went past and that was that." I also thought about the machine gun thing but the way I understand it each tank was only issued one MG34 and they swapped back and forth from hull to turret, and I think they issued MG42s for the mid and late models that had the ring on the commander's cupola for AA. Not totally sure about all that, so if someone can enlighten me please do.

Dan, does that mean I can't bind the RX outside the tank using the power supply? I like to test the RX with a servo before installation but it has to be bound to do that.

I know they can all fry, no matter how much they cost. The way I understand it, ALL electronics boards have to be sent to the mountains of Japan where Samurai Wizards install magic smoke in every board to make them function, and if you let the magic smoke get loose the board won't work anymore.

I think we've had this conversation before, but even though I think the BARC is an ingenious board and the Benedini is cool as all get out, as long as it runs on the RX-18 I won't be using it. I went that route with the TG MFU and I decided if I'm going to upgrade I'm going to completely eliminate the stock MFU and go with just one board that does it all, like the Clark and the IBU2. I hear Kevin is working on just such a board, called the Asp, that's just for airsoft and is specifically designed to run on the 9X with tankER9X so when that comes out I may give it a try. As for price it's middle of the road, not as much as an IBU2 but more than a TK-22.

YHR

YEs you can bind the receiver on the bench. Just hook up power through one of the other servo ports. Just make sure you are hooking up to the positive and negative and not the signal.

Re RX18.

I'll wait

Max-U52

As for the Clark board, if you put a 10 amp fuse inline from the battery wouldn't that do the same thing as the fuse in the IBU2? Something like this?

olegnA

Gary, the IBU2 has 2 fuses: the big one is for motor only and the surface mount is the main fuse of the board.

Max-U52

Right. This is for the Clark board. I'm thinking inline from the battery (main power). I could also fuse each motor if it's necessary, but I haven't heard of too many people frying a clark board with stock motors.

YHR

Yes the same protection can be used to protect the RX18, and that is kind of my point, I think you will need to go to 20 amps unless you put fuse protection on each set of motors.

I think these things see a total draw of more then 10 amps quite regularly. A circuit breaker would be nicer as it would reset itself. I have 20 amp auto breaker that I was going to install, but just never got around to it. With 4 shaft boxes the motors don't stall so they don't draw the stall amperage that fries RX18's.

I will tell all who listens the first upgrade you need on a tank is the gearboxes.. You getter better control more torque, and you save the stock electronics all at the same time.

clarkmodel

Why need FUSE for motor? FET on TK board can take 60A.

You are not designer of ESC, help you won't delivery wrong image to customer.

YHR

Sorry. It has been awhile since I looked at my Clark board. I apologize. I was just trying to warn people that all boards can fail and no electronics are bullet proof. Is this the fuse here. Can it be replaced or do you have to solder it?


Is it possible to have a circuit breaker to protect the circuit. Something a person could just reset instead of having to replace?

I think Gary is just trying to add some further protection to protect his investment. Do you think it is a bad idea to add a replaceable fuse ahead of this board?

clarkmodel

No, that is not.

Like all RC car ESC, we don't put fuse on motor path to reduce resistance, just make sure the stall current of motor you use does not exceed the specification, not thing will be burned.

YHR

OK Good to know

Where is the fuse on the Tk22?

Max-U52

That photo will be very helpful, and may answer a question for me. I do NOT plan to use the servo elevation and recoil, and this is an airsoft tank, so where does the trigger switch plug in, if at all? The IBU doesn't use the trigger switch, so I wondered if it's the same on the Clark Board, or does the Clark use the trigger switch to sync airsoft firing and the cannon sound? If so, where do you plug in the two pin plug from the trigger switch? I think I have an idea, but I don't guess with this stuff, I find out for sure.

Right now I'm still prepping the tank, so it will probably be the weekend before I get to installing the Clark board.

If you're still watching, Clark, I really like this Mato/Clark package I got. I think it's a real winner and I'm already thinking about buying more Clark boards.

YHR

Hi Gary

Follow this link for an installation guide for the Clark board


http://www.clark-model.com/eng/prod_rx20_tu/index.html

.

bradgreene

Gary, in addition to the tutorial link that Dan posted above, also see this : http://www.clark-model.com/eng/index_e.html. Since you are using airsoft, follow the column that says "-H version, or Main Gun Function Mode is configured to AirSoft or HL Recoil". I am not sure if the Taigen wiring is the same as the HL but you might also look at the section in the same link that says "HL Gun Elevation and Airsoft Correction". You might also need the programming remote since as far as I know and please anyone correct me on this since I don't use airsoft, the Main Gun Function is set to Tamiya Recoil out of the box. It has lots of pics so it is very helpful.

clarkmodel

We use the trigger switch to sync airsoft firing and the cannon sound to ensure the sync is always on right time in differnt battery voltage. You can go throught install guide on our website first and write to [email protected] if any question.

clarkmodel

Yes, have to set to Airsoft mode to have correct movement and sync.

Roboticus_Prime

Very nice! Let me know how you like those speakers. I've been eyeballing set for a few weeks now.

And yes, we could see.