philipat

Opinions are good. They educate and identify options.

I've put weights into some tanks to balance front and rear, particularly on the rear drive tanks. This helps with traction, especially on hills. The added weight will put more strain on the motors and drain the battery faster. The other advantage to heavier tanks is that they crawl through the grass better when backyard driving. That said, heavy tanks lose responsiveness faster when in IR battles.

Max-U52

I had the same problem with goRCgo and waited a month for paypal to lift the hold. You can go to that website right now and order a Jagdtiger for $250 but you'll never see it. I don't know what happened, but that site is obviously no longer in service. The paypal hold happens automatically, and when I called paypal they said there's nothing they can do.

Just got a reply from Heng Long Store and they don't have 4 shaft gearboxes of any kind. A real shame, too, because I'd really like to get a set of these in that config. Guess I'll just have to wait for Imex. Right now that's the ONLY place I know to get 4 shaft gearboxes with all those bearings, and the only way to get a set there right now is to buy an Abrams. Come on, Container Ship!!!

Panther F

I always weight my tanks down. The throttle response and suspension reaction is more realistic... especially on converted models that start out really light in weight.

Adding metal detail options, metal wheels and tracks are another way too. Just don't go overboard with it!



Jeff

Max-U52

I got a reply from amsoil. This is what they said:

Gary,

Consider using AMSOIL Multi-Purpose Grease (GLC).

Thank you,
Aaron N. Anderson
AMSOIL Technical Services
715-392-7101 x6099

If anyone tries it out I think we'd all like to hear your results. As for me, I'm stickin' with Lubriplate.

MAUS45

I looked at their site and they have a High Viscosity Lithium grease, but it may be too thick? High Viscosty means thick right?

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...thetic-grease/

Max-U52

Yes, as far as I know, the higher the viscosity number the thicker the lubricant.

Imex-Erik

Ok so here is how I and Taigen break in both tracks and gearboxes.

Nothing special, just a cut down 2x4 and some DC power. You can keep the standard plugs on the end and use a JST connector (there is actually one on the octo cable there, I just use these motors to break in tracks as they are a bit faster than normal) and just direct drive them. I like a DC power supply as I can speed up or down the motors at will. You can either power both motors at once and break in the tracks, 1 motor with/without resistance (the track and 2nd gearbox), or both motors without tracks.
Very cheap, fast, and easy to setup.

scottlarson925

My Feedback: (2)

As stated earlier in this thread, that is what I use and have for years. I've been an Amsoil dealer for 40 years and am rather knowledgeable about lubricants in all applications, including hobby-grade. I race RC boats in gasser class with the North American Model Boat Association and I race 5th scale gas buggy events locally and Amsoil is the go-to lube among many racers. I can't vouch for individual responses from Amsoil Inc., but I can say that their products are second to none for performance throughout the entire product line...

Max-U52

Hey Scott, your post was the reason I sent them the email. If I had known you're a dealer I would've just asked you.

So what's the effect of high temp high pressure lube in a situation like ours? The tanks are low temp and low pressure, so is there a specific grease that will give better performance in this specific application?

MAUS45

Erik, like the track/gearbox breakin block!!! Simple yet effective.

scottlarson, what is the best lube from AMSOIL for our application? Thanks, Rudy

scottlarson925

My Feedback: (2)

Gary, for RC tanks high pressure, high temp grease is not necessary. AMSOIL Multi-Purpose Grease (GLC), as recommended by Aaron with AMSOIL Tech, is rated for those conditions but it is still an ideal grease for hobby-grade applications. It has excellent cohesion and adhesion properties meaning it will stay together and stick where you put it. That's not to say it won't fling in high-rev situations but it will adhere better then other greases of the same viscosity. It's anti-wear properties are where it really shines. The film strength keeps gears from wearing due to metal on metal contact. You should notice less gear noise and in the long term, less gear wear. Rudy, I hope this helps answer your question as well. There are other Amsoil greases available, water-proof, high performance racing, industrial, but for our application here, go with the GLC. Also consider Amsoil 20w-50 Racing Oil for bearings and bushings, it's heavier viscosity provides far better protection then 3 in 1 Oil or other light machine oils and again, it's anti-wear properties are second to none.

Scott.

MAUS45

Thanks Scott, I just read your last post. That answers my question.

Marc780

oh that is another member's tank - but we discussed the lead weights, he added the weight for climbing and so on. The t34 is tail heavy 'cause everythings in the rear.

Marc780

Maus i think you'll do fine with that, I'm no lubrication expert, but i think if you didnt buy it already there might be no need for anything that expensive. This grease is designed for trucks etc. with tons of pressure on the wheel bearing gears and drive shaft bearings, our small gearboxes with their light load, just need something, anything to avoid metal to metal contact and probably almost any grease will do. (I used to use my "divers 100% silicone grease" i use for my pcp airguns, since it does not react to plastic of the rest of the tank - but figured it was way to expensive for that - and the grease is going to be confined to metal gearbox anyway!

Wheel bearing grease, white lithium in the big tube, good old lubriplate (i havent seen it anywhere except gun shops in years) vaseline, all these things ought to work just fine (anything except WD40 - which is NOT a lubricant -or the crappy white lithium rattle can grease that does nothing) darn near anything ought to work. Cling is the most important factor because of the spinning so, grease over oil any day, oil is probably just getting flung off after a couple minutes.
An advantage of the white grease you can see when its ready to be cleaned off and relubed. Rather then remove the gearboxes (im lazy) I remove the top, tilt the tank vertical, hose it with brake cleaner, scrub with a toothbrush, hose again with the cleaner, then clean with compressed air. The brake cleaner did not damage the plastic yet i wouldnt soak it in it then leave it overnight, thats all. If you are concerned about the plastic, then elec cleaner in the rattle can is plastic safe.