dlobmwm3

My Feedback: (2)

Well folks, after only 3 events into the new 2015 year, my converted Taigen T-34\Trumpeter 76 has shown signs of the poor hull design. Our proving ground is the AAF Tank Museum in Danville, VA. It has not held up even with the replacement of plastic tracks and road wheels. If I had kept the metal tracks and road wheels on, I believe it would have displayed the results much sooner based on the enormous amount of weight of the two combined. The negative camber on the tracks are great for race cars but not for a tank. It is now a shelf queen unless Taigen will warranty the tank\hull. I am really shocked that it did not last longer. We never have issues with the foundation of Tamiya tank hulls. Have a look fellas...

YHR

You may have to eleborate on these pictures. On one I think I see a crack on the front idler housing. It was documented early on that a person will need to beef up the suspension points as they were flexing way too much and created that camber you are talking about. Just curious if you had done the suspenion mods. prior to batlting with the tank.

It will be interesting to see what shakes out as more and more of the Taigen releases are being made into battlers. IMO these metal sleeved hulls will have more issues then a plain HL Plasitc tub or a Full metal tub like the Mato or the Taigen Sherman.

I have only ever bought one of these type of hulls and it was the T-34. I had to beef-up the suspension out of the gate, and as of yet that Hull still is just sitting on my shelf untouched, so I can't comment on it more then that.

Disregard the above if this is a plastic hull, but because you mention Taigen and not Heng Long I was assuming this is the Taigen metal tank.

kizwan

I think he meant the idler wheels are now showing a negative camber. Bracing the hull in the front should fix that, right?

ausf

The pivot is plastic and it's a weak spot. I don't have the Taigen, but went through the same thing with my Trump '76 Tamiya conversion. A few hours at the bench with some K&S tubing and plain old zinc bolts from Home Depot and I was back in business and never looked back. It's a easy fix.

The up side is the arm is so close to the hull and the travel arc very small, if you beef up the pivot point it'll last. My '34 has been hammering over rocks and garbage for a while now. It's a good runner with a Tamiya M4 gearbox, Trump wheels and WSN plastic tracks.

Yes it sucks if you have to mod after dropping a good amount of scratch on something, but if it's the only game in town...

philipat

Can't tell if that's an HL plastic hull or a Taigen metal hull. Either way, check out HennTec's idler adjuster. If the only need is for bracing there, then you'll get both a brace and a very good adjuster from his part. You can get them directly from him, from Welsh Dragons, or ETO Armour...probably a few others, too.

Airbrushler

that looks like a Trumpeter Hull they have those spring towers on the inside of the hull

Airbrushler

i just looked at the Taigen it also has those spring towers

LosTxSouL94

I know what he's talking about. Mine has that too. I also had to grind down the threads off one side of the Taigen metal idlers to get the grub screw to fit them in without the chance of undoing itself.

Mine is still waiting on new gearboxes atm, but luckily mine looks nowhere near as good as yours, so I'm not fussed if people don't see it. Lol

Ausf, have you made a thread about your system and how you built it? I'd be interested in fixing mine. Might toss up between the DIY fix or go Henntec.

Tanker 10

My Tamiya JS-2 did the same thing on metal tracks.

dlobmwm3

My Feedback: (2)

This is the metal Taigen hull. Winter edition of the T-34\85 and smoke edition that was converted.

ausf

Here's the thread on it, but the pivots were addressed well after the tank was up and running so I don't have pics of the fix. You can see what I did with the brass tubing and bolts on the wheels, the swing arms are the same deal, the only difference is the nut goes on the inside of the hull.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...race-p2-2.html

dlobmwm3

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Ausf. I am going to try and get that brace made. But I'm not sure how bad my crack is in the idler housing.

Imex-Erik

Unfortunately this is not something I can warranty my friend. If this was a new tank then absolutely, but after being driven a bunch of times and/or modified this is not something I can do. I would suggest the HennTec idler system like the one here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...lowerhull.html or a front brace for your hull. The HennTec system would probably be the most beneficial for your application.

dlobmwm3

My Feedback: (2)

Very disappointed as this tank is less than 6 months old. Nothing was modified on the lower hull except change of wheels and metal tracks were removed.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

Typical response from a retailer.

Imex-Erik

I apologize if you think so. I have always tried to be fair on not only the forums but everything I do for both Taigen and IMEX. If the product was new or just received I would be more than happy to help as many here would back me up, I am always willing to make things right if possible.
Unfortunately after a RC product (this includes cars, quadcopters, helicopters, and pretty much anything RC) has been driven or used the customer has accepted that the item in question is ok or free of faults. We have no clue how our products are used after purchase and do not cover work once it has been used. This is the same for most companies worldwide. I have however always been very vocal and made it a point to communicate with our customers. Sometimes we may not be able to fix issues, but this is info I can pass along to the correct people to have looked at or possibly corrected in the future.

YHR

Erik

That looks like exactly what is needed at this point. This part appears as if it would correct the issues. I might have to look at getting one of these.

dlobmwm3

My Feedback: (2)

I disagree with you Erik. The hull is the most important part of the RC tank and when it gets compromised, the tank is useless. The version I have is a new design and you should stand by your product as part of the courtesy to your patrons, especially a new one. Tamiya stands by the MF and DMD units for a lifetime. It also is a the main component of the tank. The least you could have offered was to cover the cost of a new hull, the Henntech part or both to cover the issues on the design of the hull. Danville is one of the most demanding battlefields and is a proving ground for these tanks. The Taigen will need more work in design.

dlobmwm3

My Feedback: (2)

Heck, I will put my offer to test any manufacter's tank on Danville's battlefield with feedback.

Max-U52

I have to disagree with this. If you had the tank for less than 30 days it would be different, but after 6 months you really can't expect warranty, especially after you ran it at a place like Danville. If you want the lifetime warranty that comes with a Tamiya tank, then spend the money for a Tamiya tank. Not to mention that this flex was identified early on and Jeff (as well as others) pointed it out and pointed out how to reinforce it. If you didn't take the time to make sure your tank can hold up to Danville you shouldn't complain after the fact. That's like me taking my Chevy Malibu and running it flat out at the Indy speedway and then complaining that it broke down, even though I did nothing in advance to prevent breakdowns and make sure the car would hold up to the abuse.

There's really no one out there that stands behind their products better than Erik does, but there are limits. I've had him replace stuff for me after purchase, but never as long as six months after. That's just asking too much of any vendor unless you get some kind of written warranty in advance, and none of these things have that. If you want a tank that can stand up to the rigors of Danville as well as a Tamiya can, then buy a Tamiya.

YHR

6 months is along time for an RC vehicle so I understand Taigen's position.

However the Taigen hull is not inexpensive like a Heng long so there are some expectations from the consumer that a company has to understand. What is tolerated on a $120 Heng Long may not be tolerated on a $200 hull.

Hopefully Taigen make the design changes required to fix this When you start charging Tamiya dollars for things then a consumers expectation from the product will go up.

I have this exact same chassis, and will be fashioning a brace to help with this problem.

Also we all know that many Tamiyas have been upgraded to withstand Danville. Darryl Turner has sold a lot of Tamiya upgrades to help fix the weak points, so I don't think we need to beat up Taigen too much over this.

dlobmwm3

My Feedback: (2)

You are 100% correct which is why I have all Tamiya's and two WSN T-34's. Except for this one and probably the last one.

Panther G

All the tanks I ever ran at Danville where especially built to run there. In any competition even if it is friendly like most are at Danville now you still tend to "beat on" your tanks a little more than you would say at your local club gathering. It is just the spirit of the place. It brings out the best and worst in us. I agree that it would be hard for Erik to warranty the hull after so much time has passed and even more so with knowing it was run at Danville. YHR is also correct in the fact that these companies are really starting to compete with Tamiya so they are going to need to also step up and design their products a little more durable when they start getting in this price range. Funny part is you can buy the hull alone for any Tamiya tank and it is actually fairly inexpensive so Tiagen needs to keep this in mind. The people who are willing to spend this kind of money are going to require a higher level of quality or there is no reason to go with a brand over another.

dlobmwm3

My Feedback: (2)

Well said my friend. Well said.

Panther F

ANYTHING can be fixed, repaired & modified or we ain't real tankers!




Jeff