Roboticus_Prime

I have access to a hydrolic press, so that wouldn't worry me. I wanted to use the entire shaft in the box, since the super one is all brass. Either way, I'd definitely like to see someone's review of them first.

YHR

I have the 3 shaft boxes with bearings on all shafts and some hopped up motor from Hobbyraw. I run these in the Leo and the Abrams. I have posted video of them and they move along at a good clip. I have not done a timed run, but they seem to skidattle.I bet they are running close to scale

.

Max-U52

It's not hard to get a rough estimate of scale speed. Measure out 82.5 feet and if your tank can cover it in 15 seconds that's a scale 60 mph. If it takes 20 seconds that's about 40 mph. I think that would be reasonable for a scale Abrams or Leopard. I've heard several reports of an ungoverned M1 reaching 60 on a smooth road.

gtrider6

At 60+ the tracks begin to fall apart. Ive been up alittle over 50 with my abrams when in ramadi. The m88 i got maybe 40 mph but the torque is what its made for. Drove threw a house with my m88.

Max-U52

The 3 shaft boxes with the 360 motors should get you really close to scale 50 mph. I got 47 in the 99A, but that's with bushings on everything except the axle shafts. The new boxes are much smoother so that might be the last little bit needed to get up over 50. And the RC M1 may be a bit lighter than the 99A. This will give you some idea of the speed difference between stock 380 motors and the 360s. Two identical tanks, one with 380s, one with 360s, in a drag race. I also did videos of the time trials of the 360s in the 99A.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzW9U5pkMiA

YHR

So does this look scale.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBMtnPb_4jE

Max-U52

What motors are you using in that, Dan?

YHR

They came stock with the Hobby Raw boxes. Black motors with a well done capacitor circuit board attached to the end plate. They seem equivalent to the 400's. THis tank is also using an RX18 to power these boxes, and there is little heat generated with this set up. I don't even bother wiith cooling fans. My view on the RX18 has always been it is not the RX18 but the gearing that is the issue with the Heng Long tanks. Badly cogging gears with the wrong ratio was developing far too much to overcome for the stock electronics. Fix the gearing and you fix the RX18 issue as well. I will be sad if this $20 tank ESC quits being produced. It is a great ESC for all kinds of RC scale projects from Trucks to Battleships. You just have to engineer around its limitations. I know I have a box full of RX18's for my own personal uses..

Max-U52

I've got a few in reserve myself, just in case ...

Max-U52

A capacitor plate like this, Dan? This is the new gearbox from Imex with all the bearings. I noticed this wasn't on the previous black can motors, they still had two wafer caps soldered on.



How's that for down-n-dirty splatter shields? Styrene and zap goo. Love that stuff.

YHR

Yes looks like the same thing. I am thinking IMEX and Hobbyraw have the same supplier.

Re splatter shields I do something similar. Instead I use a sheet of thin styrene and just friction fit it in place. This video shows a Sherman with the splatter shield in place

I have not tried this goo, but your comment about using it instead of hot glue has me interested. I try to stay away from glue as much as I can, but there are times that the simplicity of what is required to do makes it the obvious choice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFhLDaSKkcY

Max-U52

If you zoom on that photo I posted you can see the goo really well. I friction fit the styrene in place and then just rub a little goo along the edge of the brace where it touches the plastic and about 10 minutes later it's cured enough to mess with, but it's best to give it an hour or two. If I want to pull those out I just slice along the edge of the brace with a hobby knife and it pops right off, and I can scrape it off the metal and the [plastic and reapply more when I put the shield back in. I also use it to hold down wires. Just smear a bit over the wires and it holds them tight and comes off pretty easy. Slice close to the wire and give slow gentle pressure and it will pull off but it really holds in place well until you want to take it out. I used tiny little dabs to hold the tow cables in place on the Jagdpanther and it's working great. I need to get another tube, so now I need to remember where I got it, probably squadron or micromark.

On the motors, I thought I saw it advertised that they're supposed to be about 15% more powerful than the old stock 380s, has anyone else seen this or am I hallucinating again?

YHR

My experience with them tells me this sounds about right. They are faster and have more torque. I ran Promax 400s in a 3 shaft set and these are equal to those