New to tanks, would like some info on Taigen Panther
10-02-2015, 08:38 AM
#51
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks guys. Yes i did that Dusty, i had a few stones between the idler wheels. I took of the tracks and inspected all wheels.
What kind of terrain do you guys normaly drive on?
What kind of terrain do you guys normaly drive on?
10-02-2015, 09:11 AM
#52
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
They don't like thin landscape bark either. Another place to look for debris is between the road wheels that are close together. As far as the turret rotation motor, I've used some 1/32 slot car motors and they seem to run quieter. As Panther F says however, the crudely cut gears in the rotation mechanism is usually the problem.
10-02-2015, 09:26 AM
#53
Thanks Tanker 10!
Far too often my experienced advice goes unnoticed and never acknowledged.
I'll have to try the 1/32 slot car motor next time. How many amps do they normally draw?Jeff
10-03-2015, 08:04 AM
#56
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyone else has the track scrape the body above the idler? I saw a allenscrew, can i lower the idler with that?
I had to stretch one idler a bit as one track was a little loose, not sure is that changed the height but both sides scrub the fender.
I had to stretch one idler a bit as one track was a little loose, not sure is that changed the height but both sides scrub the fender.
10-03-2015, 08:28 AM
#57
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Kenosha,WI
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Remove the tracks by pulling a track pin. Remove one track link from each track. Adjust your idler arms for least amount of track tension. Put tracks back on. Adjust idler arms for proper track tension.
Last edited by Dusty Steppes; 10-03-2015 at 08:32 AM.
10-03-2015, 09:14 AM
#58
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That way the idlers go down away from the top?
Edit: just tried, seems they go slighty down, every thing helps, thanks
Edit 2: Tried to remove a link with the idlers pulled all the way back, but not a chance. If i remove one it gets way too tight. Seems like i'll just have to live with some rub
Edit: just tried, seems they go slighty down, every thing helps, thanks
Edit 2: Tried to remove a link with the idlers pulled all the way back, but not a chance. If i remove one it gets way too tight. Seems like i'll just have to live with some rub
Last edited by CGNoorloos; 10-03-2015 at 09:40 AM.
10-03-2015, 11:26 AM
#59
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The King Tigers have the same problem. I've spent hours trying to stop the body rubs and have not. I've even glued styrene to where it rubs so when it rubs through the styrene I'll glue another piece on.
10-03-2015, 11:30 AM
#60
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I see, maybe i should put something on there myself. Comparing to photo's of the real tank it seems the idler on the models is places a bit too high.
Not sure how this idler is fitted though, i will see tomorrow if i can turn it in some way.
Not sure how this idler is fitted though, i will see tomorrow if i can turn it in some way.
10-05-2015, 12:32 AM
#61
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did some more driving this weekend. Foud a place with some nice harder ground and she drove well. The stock battery lasts forrever jamed the track only 2 times, taking care not to turn too much in the loose stuff.
Also decided to make a simple carry tray out of some old wood bits laying around. Makses transporting it a whole lot easier.
next step is to put some velcro in the turret and on the commander so he doesn't fall out.
Also fired the gun for the first time, and boy is it a shotgun, shoots all over the place :P
Add some picts from the run.
jamed the track only 2 times, taking care not to turn too much in the loose stuff. Also decided to make a simple carry tray out of some old wood bits laying around. Makses transporting it a whole lot easier.
next step is to put some velcro in the turret and on the commander so he doesn't fall out.
Also fired the gun for the first time, and boy is it a shotgun, shoots all over the place :P
Add some picts from the run.
10-05-2015, 02:14 AM
#62
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does anyone know where i can find sideskirts in plastic that fit on without too much tinkering? I found metal ones but they are rather expencive, so some plastic ones would hopefully work.
10-05-2015, 08:40 AM
#64
I've tried the velcro for the TC. He wobbles like crazy. Better solution seems to be putting some 1/4" rare earth magnets in the base of the TC and gluing a small piece of soup can (or other iron-based can) to the turret.
10-05-2015, 08:48 AM
#65
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Kenosha,WI
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rctankde has polystyrene skirts and hangers listed under accessories / panther g.
10-05-2015, 09:53 PM
#66
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for that tip Philipat, i did not think of that, so perhaps i'll sacrifice a fridge magnet.
I cannot believe it Dusty, i been on that site for some time yesterday looking at things i could buy for the tank, and i totaly failed to see those! I only saw those metal ones. I think i need new glasses....
Now i just need to find some good paint color to simulate paint chip and then i can work on that while i wait for the next paycheck to get them fenders
I cannot believe it Dusty, i been on that site for some time yesterday looking at things i could buy for the tank, and i totaly failed to see those! I only saw those metal ones. I think i need new glasses....
Now i just need to find some good paint color to simulate paint chip and then i can work on that while i wait for the next paycheck to get them fenders
10-07-2015, 02:29 PM
#67
I put Mato 2.0 gear in mine and they fit. The video shows it moving along fine.
I found the Tigers to be problematic with throwing tracks, and the both of them suffer in the snow because of the interlaced wheels, holding snow and then packing it in until everything is a solid mass of ice..
The Bulldog. KV1, and Sherman are about the best runners out of the box..
I found the Tigers to be problematic with throwing tracks, and the both of them suffer in the snow because of the interlaced wheels, holding snow and then packing it in until everything is a solid mass of ice..
The Bulldog. KV1, and Sherman are about the best runners out of the box..
10-07-2015, 10:47 PM
#68
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I looked at the Pershing a little, it is a good looking tank but i dd not like the paint with that bright green and seemlingly little details.
From what i saw on facebook there are new HL Pershigs and Walker Buldogs comming. They look quite nice with better collors and with some more detailing i believe.
Took the Panther out last evening in an old quarry. Drove in some dried up mud but that really made the tracks hit the body above the idler ran fine though as long as i did not pivot too much. Loose sand was no good. Even without stones it would collect and when passing the idler it would get the tracks stuck between the idler and body.
After i ran her on some moss (great way to clean the tracks :P) and she ran great, and the cammo really popped in those forresty backgrounds.
Once the suplier is back from vacation i wil ask if they have track tensioners with longer arms so the idler is positioned a bit further down. If not i might create a hole above the idlers and put a piece ontop so i get 2-3mm more space.
How do i remove the idler wheels? The two parts seems to be very well together and i don't want to bend or break the suspension.
From what i saw on facebook there are new HL Pershigs and Walker Buldogs comming. They look quite nice with better collors and with some more detailing i believe.
Took the Panther out last evening in an old quarry. Drove in some dried up mud but that really made the tracks hit the body above the idler ran fine though as long as i did not pivot too much. Loose sand was no good. Even without stones it would collect and when passing the idler it would get the tracks stuck between the idler and body.
After i ran her on some moss (great way to clean the tracks :P) and she ran great, and the cammo really popped in those forresty backgrounds.
Once the suplier is back from vacation i wil ask if they have track tensioners with longer arms so the idler is positioned a bit further down. If not i might create a hole above the idlers and put a piece ontop so i get 2-3mm more space.
How do i remove the idler wheels? The two parts seems to be very well together and i don't want to bend or break the suspension.
10-08-2015, 10:39 AM
#69
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Kenosha,WI
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The idler wheels are held in place by a set screw in the idler arm that tightens against the idler wheel axles. I had a hard time getting to them because the idler arms were set all the way up for max tension. The easy fix is to remove one track link from each track. Set the idler arms for minimum tension. Put the tracks back on and adjust the idlers so the track touches the top of the third roadwheel from the front. I had the exact same problem as you. Now I am running it with 85 links per track and I have a quarter inch gap between the top of the track to the bottom of the hull sponsons above the idlers.
10-08-2015, 10:58 AM
#70
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just had the tracks off and loosened the setscrew next to the outer wall but it didn't seem to do anything. I even even tried pushing the external arm the wheel is attacked to down, but would not budge more then the play that is present from before.
The idlers are screwed all the way back allready and have only 1-2mm clearance. (not sure how much inch that is sorry) What does not help is that on one side the top above the idler sags a little down.
I wish i knew how those idler axles where put together. As the arm is now at like a 50 degree angle rear downwards, but if i could get the arm closer to vertical down that would be nice.
The idlers are screwed all the way back allready and have only 1-2mm clearance. (not sure how much inch that is sorry) What does not help is that on one side the top above the idler sags a little down.
I wish i knew how those idler axles where put together. As the arm is now at like a 50 degree angle rear downwards, but if i could get the arm closer to vertical down that would be nice.
10-08-2015, 06:13 PM
#71
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Kenosha,WI
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1/4 inch = 6mm (approximately)
The manual in the link below is for a Tamiya Tiger I but the track tensioning system works the same way for this Panther chassis.
Figure 13 shows the set screw (MB3) that holds the idler wheels to the idler arms.
Figure 15 shows the location of the screws that adjust the track tension.
https://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/56010ml.pdf
The manual in the link below is for a Tamiya Tiger I but the track tensioning system works the same way for this Panther chassis.
Figure 13 shows the set screw (MB3) that holds the idler wheels to the idler arms.
Figure 15 shows the location of the screws that adjust the track tension.
https://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/56010ml.pdf
10-08-2015, 09:30 PM
#72
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is how she looks atm. I will try and remove a link and get that idler down a bit due to more tension.
Edit: Just removed one link but had to put it back. Even with the idler screwed all the way in and the wheel pushed down the track would just float over all the wheels and list the last wheel. And only like 1 mm more space. But is was way too tight.
Edit 2: How could i allmost forget: Thanks a lot for that link to that tamiya guide. Seems i cannot do to the link what i tried to do since the axle is not round but squared off. :P
Edit: Just removed one link but had to put it back. Even with the idler screwed all the way in and the wheel pushed down the track would just float over all the wheels and list the last wheel. And only like 1 mm more space. But is was way too tight.
Edit 2: How could i allmost forget: Thanks a lot for that link to that tamiya guide. Seems i cannot do to the link what i tried to do since the axle is not round but squared off. :P
Last edited by CGNoorloos; 10-08-2015 at 10:30 PM.
10-15-2015, 01:00 PM
#74
Thanks for the quick replies.
The one i look at has ( copied this from the store site):
Metal features
New metal lower hull with metal arms, track tensioning system, Shakel with bolts and nuts,hubs, right metal frontSuspension with torsion bares
Metal gun
Also fitted:
Steel gearboxes, Sprocket and idler wheels (with ball bearings), Road wheels with rubber, HQ-metal tracks with closed track links, motor photo-etch grill
Seeing what Pedzola says, maybe the Panther is not the best choice for a starter tank? I would need it to run quite well from the get go, without having to invest allot of money just to get it running right.
I also came across something that might be a problem. Further down this forum i read that metal tracks will leave marks on a wooden floor. Is it easy to swap to plastic tracks for running inside? Since on this model the roadwheels have rubber and there are no return rollers i gues the plastic ones will not be eaten too fast by the drivewheel.
I am looking at the Tigers some more now and i could sulerly take one of those instead. Is there anything that i should know about? Known issues?
Since it is a first tank, and my budged is limited i do kind of need the tank to be user friendly
I have some time to decide as i am trying to sell my old RC truck first for some added hobbyfunds and lower wife agro.
The one i look at has ( copied this from the store site):
Metal features
New metal lower hull with metal arms, track tensioning system, Shakel with bolts and nuts,hubs, right metal frontSuspension with torsion bares
Metal gun
Also fitted:
Steel gearboxes, Sprocket and idler wheels (with ball bearings), Road wheels with rubber, HQ-metal tracks with closed track links, motor photo-etch grill
Seeing what Pedzola says, maybe the Panther is not the best choice for a starter tank? I would need it to run quite well from the get go, without having to invest allot of money just to get it running right.
I also came across something that might be a problem. Further down this forum i read that metal tracks will leave marks on a wooden floor. Is it easy to swap to plastic tracks for running inside? Since on this model the roadwheels have rubber and there are no return rollers i gues the plastic ones will not be eaten too fast by the drivewheel.
I am looking at the Tigers some more now and i could sulerly take one of those instead. Is there anything that i should know about? Known issues?
Since it is a first tank, and my budged is limited i do kind of need the tank to be user friendly
I have some time to decide as i am trying to sell my old RC truck first for some added hobbyfunds and lower wife agro.
i did get her.