PZ II Ausf L "Luchs" build
12-23-2015, 08:18 PM
#26
Thread Starter
Hey Gregg, yea those came from Daryl. I'll ask him on the specs of the torsion bars and get back to you.
02-12-2016, 06:43 AM
#28
Thread Starter
Due to the gearboxes being mounted a bit forward to make room for the first wheel stations the lower hull is about 4mm longer than the stock resin model. Last night I bashed on some aluminum to make a transition peice between the front of the upper hull and glacis. Tacked for now with some JB weld which will be sanded down once the back side is filled then the top seam will be filled. Plenty of filling and sanding to do but should work well. Also some delrin spacer rails to support the upper hull/sponsons and make a little more room to mount the fenders underneath.
Last edited by TheBennyB; 02-12-2016 at 06:51 AM.
02-12-2016, 07:27 AM
#29
Nice transition. Sometimes scale has to be sacrificed for fit in R/C tanks. In your case if you had not told us we wouldn't have known. Nice work and thanks for sharing. Will look great when finished!!!
02-12-2016, 09:22 AM
#30
That's so true. Many of these kits and RTR's have some degree of inaccuracies... even Tamiya (yes), just check out a modeling forum and read about what styrene kits have measurement problems.
As long as it's not too glaring (like the front lower glacis of the HL Panther) then no one will ever know.
Really nice work and progress Bret.
Jeff
As long as it's not too glaring (like the front lower glacis of the HL Panther) then no one will ever know.
Really nice work and progress Bret.
Jeff
02-12-2016, 11:31 AM
#32
Thread Starter
As always thanks for the kind words fella's. Next will be a system to hold down the upper to the lower. Have some ideas I'm going to R&D next time I'm in the shop.
02-20-2016, 09:03 PM
#33
Thread Starter
Mating of the upper to the lower. Scratched my head on this quite a bit always wanting to attach front upper to glacis with magnets, double hinge, etc. Couldn't figure anything out with the close proximity of the motor/gearbox. Ended up making up some brackets for a side mount to the hull sides and mounted with fiberglass and 2.5mm screws.. For the ass end just a countersunk self-tapper through the aluminum rear plate into the resin. Yea, taking out 3 screws is kind of a pain to change batts, oh well.
Last edited by TheBennyB; 02-20-2016 at 09:09 PM.
02-23-2016, 08:30 PM
#34
Thread Starter
Started some work on the upper. Recessed some rare earth magnets for the driver/radio operator hatches and used some tammy torsion bars for support and a magnetic stick. Also fitted the engine access door which unfortunately will have to be glued shut since the rotation unit will be mounted to a portion of it underneath.
Starting to look a bit more like a tank!
Starting to look a bit more like a tank!
03-08-2016, 06:41 PM
#39
Thread Starter
Shoved a 3mm orange LED bulb into the resin muzzle and ran some wire through the brass tubing used for the barrel. That took some patience for sure, but think it turned out ok. Big shout out to Warren (Wozwasnt) for helping me out and after sending him some measurements I've got a custom 3d printed turret ring that meshes with a HL rotation unit. Huge time saver!
Last edited by TheBennyB; 03-08-2016 at 06:45 PM.
03-09-2016, 08:50 AM
#40
Looks good. 3D printing to the rescue for that turret drive, very cool.
03-19-2016, 06:13 PM
#44
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I have been wanting to see what you were creating and am happy to see it is a fine piece of machinery that you are turning out and it is not of or from any part of the 1/16 kit sold by classy hobbies. thanks to airbrush tip on how to open the attachments I did get the opportunity to check it out. so keep up the great work as i will be watching it to it's completion.
03-21-2016, 05:31 AM
#45
Thread Starter
I have been wanting to see what you were creating and am happy to see it is a fine piece of machinery that you are turning out and it is not of or from any part of the 1/16 kit sold by classy hobbies. thanks to airbrush tip on how to open the attachments I did get the opportunity to check it out. so keep up the great work as i will be watching it to it's completion.
03-24-2016, 04:26 PM
#46
Thread Starter
Fenders on and some fill work with styrene. Base coat on the upper. I'm leaning towards just some olivegrun on top of the dunkelgelb. Somewhat like what Saumur has on theirs. Any thoughts?
03-25-2016, 08:23 AM
#47
I like three color schemes maybe like the one at Bovington?
03-25-2016, 08:54 AM
#48
Thread Starter
Yea, I'm fond of the 3 color scheme as well. I did that on my late G so was thinking just the green would be a bit different and work well at the Danville battlefield. I'll keep glancing at those pics over the weekend Maus and see if I'm persuaded. Thanks for the input and pics.
03-25-2016, 09:26 AM
#49
I thought this was a little different for a three color scheme in that there is more green then there is of the red brown. :-)
04-13-2016, 05:56 PM
#50
Thread Starter
Decided to just go with some olivegrun (Sorry Maus.) Took it to Danville and it ran smooth though I ran into a electrical problem with the digital servo used for recoil was browning out the Barc4. Didn't get to battle it but drove it around a bit and she's a runner. Will install an analog recoil servo and hopefully that clears up the brown outs.