Dusty Steppes

I'm looking for a couple of wiring diagrams for the tk22.
One for the Henglong style recoil and another for the Asiatam/Taigen style recoil.

I have tried looking at the Clark instructions but they are confusing to say the least.

Crius

What exactly are you trying to figure out?

Dusty Steppes

I have 7 Taigen tanks. All of them IR. 3 of them use the Asiatam/Taigen barrel recoil and 4 of them use the Henlong barrel recoil. Trying to figure out the correct wiring for both types barrel recoil.

Crius

Man, you've got your work cut out. Your best bet is to study the clark manual. I actually had to print it out before it started to make sense to me, but I'm a little slow. The darn thing is 73 pages long! Did you try the Taigen Tanks youtube channel to see if they have anything?

Crius

I just went here

http://www.clark-model.com/eng/prod_rx20/index.html

and scrolled about halfway down til I came to recoil and checked out both heng long and asiatam and they seem like straightforward instructions, but I can also see where they might get a bit confusing. That's one of the reasons I printed it out, so when it said things like "connect detection switch (trigger switch) to 4th and 5th pin on CN3" I could quickly reference the part of the manual that shows all the pins and has the CN numbers labeled to see which plug was CN3.

Kenosha ain't that far from Detroit. Bring them over to my place and we'll sort things out. You bring the aspirin!

Dusty Steppes

It also says to connect - to 4th pin on CN9. Connect + to 3rd pin on CN9. All the connections on CN9 are being used already by the cable that feeds the upper hull.

Also if you look at the picture of tha Asiatam recoil that shows where CN3 pins 4 and 5 connect to that is the switch that stops the recoil motor when the barrel returns to the forward position. That is not the switch that triggers the flash.

Crius

Yes, you do have your work cut out. I'm just sorry I've never put a clark in an IR tank so I can't be of much help. There are a couple guys on here that have a lot of experience with this, I'm surprised we haven't heard from them.

Crius

Not totally sure about this, but I believe the trigger switch and the flash should be in the same 5 pin plug. Don't you have to rewire the recoil motor on this one?

Airbrushler

well i hook up servos i think your choice would be in using a + and - in the 8 pin wire harness

Dusty Steppes

At this point and time I really don't want to use servos. That will be an upgrade I can do at a later date and time. Looks like I'll have to break out the meter and shag out the wiring connections.

Shorty54

I ran into this on my Clarks also. I have 3 Taigens with Clark TK22s 2 360 Turrets and one standard. I had the most issues with the 360s. The Asiantam units need to be rewired. The motors and the little black switch on the units need to be rewired. I was looking for the diagram that I had made fore mine, but seemed to have misplaced it. It does show on the Clark site what to do, its just confusing. I also had issues with the IR not working correctly. I had to rewire that also. Then When it was finally working well, I ended up installing Tamiya Battle Units and IR Emitters. Now they all work well. Here was a post that I had updated a while back, maybe it will help. I will keep looking for that diagram. I dont really want to disassemble my Turrets now since I have all my Tanks for sale.

From last year:
Ok, so just an update to what I ended up doing. As stated above I pluged the Gun Flash directly into the TK22 port, bypassing the connector in the top od the turret. To get the IR function to work properly on both the Tiger and T34, I installed the new IR LED (IR010) that came with the board, to the connector that came with the board (CAB001) and plugged that into PORT J1 on the TK22. I then took the 2 wires that connected the original Taigen IR LED, and connected a red LED and ran the led to the top of where the HBU is. Now the red LED flashes when it takes a hit. I also believe this will help with programing when I get the remote. I can easily push the LED out of site if not battling. So in the end all is working and Im satisfied, other than the T34 TK22 is not as loud as the Tiger TK22, mostly engine sound and cannon. I do have a question about the IR signal. I put the IR LED 9mm back from the front opening of both tanks. The Tiger seems to have a larger opening than the T34. I have noticed that the Tiger can hit the T34 pretty easy, I dont have to be spot on. The T34 seems to have a smaller hole and it needs to be more spot on to hit the Tiger. Both IR LEDs are new and they are the High Power ones that come with the Clark Boards. Any suggestions?

Crius

The tube is supposed to be a maximum of 6mm inside diameter on all tanks. If you use the same tube in both and make sure the tube runs to the very front of the opening you should get similar performance from both. When I did my T1 I made the tube long enough to get the LED back 9mm from the front and then mounted the tube in the mantlet.

Oh yeah, per most recommendations I got I painted the inside of the tube flat black.

Dusty Steppes

On the 3 wire turret connector that plugs into the upper hull, did you have to swap the red wire (elevation motor) with the middle black wire (recoil motor)?

Shorty54

I would have to look under my Turrets. I know that I could not plug into one of those turret connectors, it would make smoke! I ended up just running the wires directly to my TK22. I remember having to change the wires on the recoil and elevation motors themselves. Something (Wiring) changed when Taigen went to the 360 Turrets. My Taigen Tiger does not have a 360 Turret and I had no problems with that one. The Sherman and T34 I had to do alot of rewiring to get to work properly. Servos are a better option.

Dusty Steppes

Servos are an additional cost, more wires plus modifications will have to be made to mount them in the turret. I realize that servos are plug and play on the tk22. I am fairly new to the world of rc and I was wondering what makes them a better option over the Asiatam recoil.

Crius

On my sherman I had to switch the middle wire with one of the outside wires on the three pin plug that plugs into the daughter board underneath the upper hull.

Dusty, what kind of apple are you using?

Dusty Steppes

Tamiya apple with the Clark style connector for the base. Works great, at least for setting the options. I got the bases from OKC and the apples from AAF.