Panzer 3 problems
#1
Panzer 3 problems
I recently bought a Heng Long panzer 3 from eBay. It isn't a smoke and sound version. But the problem is that even when I charge the battery for 4 hours and 15 minutes, the tank doesn't turn on. In order to turn it on you have to keep unplugging and plugging in the battery with the power switch on. Eventually the front lights will go on, but it will just sit there blinking and doesn't receive commands from the transmitter. Or it will just sit there with the lights just solidly on and wont blink. I made sure the battery was fully charched and both the tank and the transmitter were set on the same frequency. I need help
#4
I usually start with the basics, like making sure the batteries are new. If you only have one tank it's a lot harder to troubleshoot stuff. With two you can swap parts back and forth to find where the problem lies. With a no start situation it could be either the TX or the MFU. The only way I know to check is to try a different TX or MFU and see if it makes a difference. Where are you?
#5
Also, I've heard it's a good idea to unplug the crystals and make sure the pins are clean before re-seating them. They say sometimes that can make a big difference.
#6
Hi, I know that this is pretty basic but if you are new to HENG LONG TANKS then perhaps you don't know that there is a particular way to start them. You have to-
"SWITCH ON THE TRANSMITTER FIRST and then SWITCH ON THE TANK"!!
shaun.
"SWITCH ON THE TRANSMITTER FIRST and then SWITCH ON THE TANK"!!
shaun.
#7
yup, check your crystals and I think you have to hit the engine start button on the TX as well? It's been a while since i've messed with a heng long system though. Also I believe blinking lights means no connection to a TX is present? Don't worry, plenty of good tankers on here and I'm sure you'll get the help you need.
#9
All my Heng Long tanks would flash when you turn on the power, then the headlights go solid when the tank is started and ready to drive. I would suspect the crystals first.
#10
The battery unplugging and plugging thing is kind of a mystery. I've never heard that symptom before. Can you show photos of the inside of the tank and the front of the transmitter? It has the old RX-14 board in it?
#11
I wonder if maybe you have a bad battery? If the battery is bad the tank wouldn't start, and it might also have to be plugged in repeatedly just to get the board to recognize that it's getting power and start flashing. Maybe.
Again, where are you? I'm in Detroit.
Again, where are you? I'm in Detroit.
#12
#14
I have this same tank. Just got it for Christmas. Your tank does not have removable crystals as it is a TX01 receiver board. So there is no crystal that can be seated/unseated.
I agree; sounds like a bad connection somewhere.
A voltmeter would be helpful to determine if you are getting juice all the way to the electronics.
Also, make sure your transmitter and the tank are set to the same channel, A, B, or C.
Steve
I agree; sounds like a bad connection somewhere.
A voltmeter would be helpful to determine if you are getting juice all the way to the electronics.
Also, make sure your transmitter and the tank are set to the same channel, A, B, or C.
Steve
#15
I'm not trying to be nosy or anything, but before I can determine how much I can help you, I need to know where you are. I at least need to know if you are in the USA or not. If you are, let's just dump the TX01 and get you on something better. I have a HUGE spares box and we can get that thing running quite well, and most of the stuff I'll give you for free. For example, if you want some zinc metal gearboxes for that tank you can have them for the cost of postage, which is about $6 to anywhere that has a US zip code (again, this is why I keep asking where you are).
The next thing I need to know is a general idea of your current interest and skill level. Are you even interested in making a better tank or do you just want to fix a toy? Can you solder? Did you build models as a youngster (or maybe still build them)?
Any way it goes I'm sure we can help you. Have you contacted the seller about a replacement, or is that even an option?
And once again, welcome aboard. You've just joined a community with some of the finest guys I've ever met.
The next thing I need to know is a general idea of your current interest and skill level. Are you even interested in making a better tank or do you just want to fix a toy? Can you solder? Did you build models as a youngster (or maybe still build them)?
Any way it goes I'm sure we can help you. Have you contacted the seller about a replacement, or is that even an option?
And once again, welcome aboard. You've just joined a community with some of the finest guys I've ever met.
#16
I live in Canada, and I finally got the tank to work. You have to change the frequency while the tank is on with it's lights blinking. The only upgrades I might want is the S&S version, and maybe some metal tracks. I'm really into tanks and rc' s but this is the first time I ever owned one. I don't know how to solder but I would like to know how to. I have built a few model cars before, but that's about it. But thanks everyone for helping!
#17
Hi Cromwell User:
Beware, the wheels on this tank come in halves. The inside half is screwed to the tank suspension with a screw, and then the second half (outside) is just pressed on. This goes for the idler wheel, too. It is common for the tank to start shedding outer wheel halves while driving. I've lost one of my halves. Fortunately the tank comes with two spare wheels for decoration on the tank hull and they are actual wheels so you can use one for a real-life repair!
People have suggested using Shoe Goo as a semi-permanent adhesive that will keep the halves together while still allowing them to be separated for repair if necessary.
Steve
Beware, the wheels on this tank come in halves. The inside half is screwed to the tank suspension with a screw, and then the second half (outside) is just pressed on. This goes for the idler wheel, too. It is common for the tank to start shedding outer wheel halves while driving. I've lost one of my halves. Fortunately the tank comes with two spare wheels for decoration on the tank hull and they are actual wheels so you can use one for a real-life repair!
People have suggested using Shoe Goo as a semi-permanent adhesive that will keep the halves together while still allowing them to be separated for repair if necessary.
Steve
#20
Well, if you look at the hull of your tank (PIII), you will see numerous holes in the hull. The battery compartment and the frequency switch just to name two. Then there is the axle to the drive wheel. So I would not drive it through any kind of water.
Snow is fine though. But, as I said above, beware - the road wheels are put together in halves and they tend to come apart in the snow. So did one of my rear idlers.
I would expect fine dirt to get into the axle and gearbox but I think driving around in the back yard should be fine. I haven't have any troubles with mine yet, but have only driven them an hour or so.
Steve
Snow is fine though. But, as I said above, beware - the road wheels are put together in halves and they tend to come apart in the snow. So did one of my rear idlers.
I would expect fine dirt to get into the axle and gearbox but I think driving around in the back yard should be fine. I haven't have any troubles with mine yet, but have only driven them an hour or so.
Steve