Model Master Acryl Flat too glossy?
#2
Did you shoot a gloss clear coat first for decal application? I use Tamiya flat clear and shoot it with the air brush, I like it best vrs their rattle can flat clear because I can thin it to my liking.
#4
I haven't used Model Master paints in many years, but Tamiya flats aren't glossy at all.
I also spray vallejo matte varnish, which also has zero gloss, over my final coats to give it a little extra protection. It seems, from your decals comment, that you're talking about clear matte.. i'd definitely recommend spraying some vallejo over it. It's acrylic, waterbased, so it won't mess up the decals.
I also spray vallejo matte varnish, which also has zero gloss, over my final coats to give it a little extra protection. It seems, from your decals comment, that you're talking about clear matte.. i'd definitely recommend spraying some vallejo over it. It's acrylic, waterbased, so it won't mess up the decals.
#5
Yep. I've never done a gloss, for any reason, before applying decals. In my opinion there is no need if you use good decals and a decal solvent. I apply my flat coat to the tank and let it dry, decal solvent, decals, decal solvent and let it all dry for a day. I then shoot the decals with another flat coat. I've never had a problem doing it this way. I am able to move the decals if I get them on wrong just as long as I keep them wet with the decal solvent. I like Tamiya decals and try to use them on my tanks.
#6
Yep. I've never done a gloss, for any reason, before applying decals. In my opinion there is no need if you use good decals and a decal solvent. I apply my flat coat to the tank and let it dry, decal solvent, decals, decal solvent and let it all dry for a day. I then shoot the decals with another flat coat. I've never had a problem doing it this way. I am able to move the decals if I get them on wrong just as long as I keep them wet with the decal solvent. I like Tamiya decals and try to use them on my tanks.
Here's some proof.. 1/35. I've been meaning to re-do the numbers because the silvering is so noticeable, but i've been lazy about it.
#8
I'm sure your eyes are better than my 70 year old eyes, I don't see silver, I see white. What color are my decals?
#9
"Silvering" in decals refers to the transparent decal bits surrounding the printed decal ink being visible. It's not actually silver. The numbers are white on mine, but there is visible decal material in between the numbers which should just be the tank color. The end goal is for it to look painted on, with numbers and markings, but visible decal material kills that illusion.
I could be mistaken, but your star looks like it's cut close to the edge, so you wouldn't be able to see any silvering.
edit: this is an extreme example, but near the bottom of this page is a before and after 'fix' of some bad silvering
http://z15.invisionfree.com/72nd_Aircraft/ar/t1617.htm
I could be mistaken, but your star looks like it's cut close to the edge, so you wouldn't be able to see any silvering.
edit: this is an extreme example, but near the bottom of this page is a before and after 'fix' of some bad silvering
http://z15.invisionfree.com/72nd_Aircraft/ar/t1617.htm
Last edited by bhop73; 04-29-2016 at 11:18 AM.
#11
"Silvering" in decals refers to the transparent decal bits surrounding the printed decal ink being visible. It's not actually silver. The numbers are white on mine, but there is visible decal material in between the numbers which should just be the tank color. The end goal is for it to look painted on, with numbers and markings, but visible decal material kills that illusion.
I could be mistaken, but your star looks like it's cut close to the edge, so you wouldn't be able to see any silvering.
edit: this is an extreme example, but near the bottom of this page is a before and after 'fix' of some bad silvering
http://z15.invisionfree.com/72nd_Aircraft/ar/t1617.htm
I could be mistaken, but your star looks like it's cut close to the edge, so you wouldn't be able to see any silvering.
edit: this is an extreme example, but near the bottom of this page is a before and after 'fix' of some bad silvering
http://z15.invisionfree.com/72nd_Aircraft/ar/t1617.htm
#12
OK the problem was I did not stir up the bottom of flat enough before spraying.
Sadly, I think this stuff has gunked up my Testors Model Master airbrush beyond repair. Fortunately, it has a lifetime warranty. We'll see after 20 years.
Steve
Sadly, I think this stuff has gunked up my Testors Model Master airbrush beyond repair. Fortunately, it has a lifetime warranty. We'll see after 20 years.
Steve
#13
Use the Tamiya flat acrylics. far better than the Testers model masters. i never use clears or flat clears especially just for decals. if i do need to for decals i only do the tiny ares that are for the decals. i don't seal the paint either . It will weather much nicer naturally just by use. If you are going full blown competition model building and painting , well then that is a different story. but for simple play and battling believe me they will look real before you know it.
#15
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: West Norriton, Pa.
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've been using Minwax Polycrylic satin finish for my clear coats. It's an acrylic clear coat that I used to use with an HVLP sprayer on cabinets and hardwood trim on my construction sites. I thin it with several drops of acrylic cleaning solvent and it sprays beautifully with my airbrush. Although it looks milky in the can, it gives me a great flat finish that is exceptionally hard on my tanks. Also, from a price standpoint, their smallest can will last forever for only a few dollars.
#17
#19
Once I have sprayed The final MATTE paint coat I do NOT use a surface coat instead I paint the area where the decals are to be applied with lots of MICROSOL then on go the decals,
Sponge off excess MICROSOL and paint the decal with MICROSET and leave alone for 12 hours, then spray with MATTE varnish.
Shaun.
Sponge off excess MICROSOL and paint the decal with MICROSET and leave alone for 12 hours, then spray with MATTE varnish.
Shaun.
#20
#23
Phenomenal information shared here, gentlemen.
I learned the age-old rule of thumb that decals require a gloss coat to adhere properly is no longer an absolute. Also learned about cheaper alternative matte coats versus the expensive hobby-grade stuff in the tiny cans.
Note to self: visit the Tank forum more often.
I learned the age-old rule of thumb that decals require a gloss coat to adhere properly is no longer an absolute. Also learned about cheaper alternative matte coats versus the expensive hobby-grade stuff in the tiny cans.
Note to self: visit the Tank forum more often.
#24
Phenomenal information shared here, gentlemen.
I learned the age-old rule of thumb that decals require a gloss coat to adhere properly is no longer an absolute. Also learned about cheaper alternative matte coats versus the expensive hobby-grade stuff in the tiny cans.
Note to self: visit the Tank forum more often.
I learned the age-old rule of thumb that decals require a gloss coat to adhere properly is no longer an absolute. Also learned about cheaper alternative matte coats versus the expensive hobby-grade stuff in the tiny cans.
Note to self: visit the Tank forum more often.