maillemaker

I've shot my tank with Model Master Acryl Flat and it still has a rather glossy appearance to it. Is Tamiya any better?

Steve

Tanker 10

Did you shoot a gloss clear coat first for decal application? I use Tamiya flat clear and shoot it with the air brush, I like it best vrs their rattle can flat clear because I can thin it to my liking.

maillemaker

Yes, I shot Future floor polish as a clear coat first. Then I shot Testors Model Master Flat Acryl over it. But it's still shiny. I use airbrush.

bhop73

I haven't used Model Master paints in many years, but Tamiya flats aren't glossy at all.

I also spray vallejo matte varnish, which also has zero gloss, over my final coats to give it a little extra protection. It seems, from your decals comment, that you're talking about clear matte.. i'd definitely recommend spraying some vallejo over it. It's acrylic, waterbased, so it won't mess up the decals.

Tanker 10

Yep. I've never done a gloss, for any reason, before applying decals. In my opinion there is no need if you use good decals and a decal solvent. I apply my flat coat to the tank and let it dry, decal solvent, decals, decal solvent and let it all dry for a day. I then shoot the decals with another flat coat. I've never had a problem doing it this way. I am able to move the decals if I get them on wrong just as long as I keep them wet with the decal solvent. I like Tamiya decals and try to use them on my tanks.

bhop73

In my experiences, my decals WILL silver if I don't use a gloss coat under them. I use microscale decal solutions.

Here's some proof.. 1/35. I've been meaning to re-do the numbers because the silvering is so noticeable, but i've been lazy about it.

maillemaker

I used gloss and still got silvering. You can see them in the Painting tips for Jagdpanther thread.

Steve

Tanker 10

I'm sure your eyes are better than my 70 year old eyes, I don't see silver, I see white. What color are my decals?

bhop73

"Silvering" in decals refers to the transparent decal bits surrounding the printed decal ink being visible. It's not actually silver. The numbers are white on mine, but there is visible decal material in between the numbers which should just be the tank color. The end goal is for it to look painted on, with numbers and markings, but visible decal material kills that illusion.

I could be mistaken, but your star looks like it's cut close to the edge, so you wouldn't be able to see any silvering.

edit: this is an extreme example, but near the bottom of this page is a before and after 'fix' of some bad silvering
http://z15.invisionfree.com/72nd_Aircraft/ar/t1617.htm

Rustytrax

The only dull coat I use is the standard testors dull.

Tanker 10

Thanks for the education bhop73, I'm never too old to learn. I did think you were speaking of the color. I do cut my decals as close as I can without ruining them.

maillemaker

OK the problem was I did not stir up the bottom of flat enough before spraying.

Sadly, I think this stuff has gunked up my Testors Model Master airbrush beyond repair. Fortunately, it has a lifetime warranty. We'll see after 20 years.

Steve

Panther G

Use the Tamiya flat acrylics. far better than the Testers model masters. i never use clears or flat clears especially just for decals. if i do need to for decals i only do the tiny ares that are for the decals. i don't seal the paint either . It will weather much nicer naturally just by use. If you are going full blown competition model building and painting , well then that is a different story. but for simple play and battling believe me they will look real before you know it.

Airbrushler

this stuff works great Rustoleum just make sure you get the right one one is just clear the other has a green tint to it

Buggman60

I've been using Minwax Polycrylic satin finish for my clear coats. It's an acrylic clear coat that I used to use with an HVLP sprayer on cabinets and hardwood trim on my construction sites. I thin it with several drops of acrylic cleaning solvent and it sprays beautifully with my airbrush. Although it looks milky in the can, it gives me a great flat finish that is exceptionally hard on my tanks. Also, from a price standpoint, their smallest can will last forever for only a few dollars.

maillemaker

Good tip, Buggman!

philipat

Interesting tip...which are you recommending? The photo is for the one with the green tint (called Sea Glass on Rustoleum's page).

Airbrushler

not the green tinted it would make any decals or painted symbols have a greenish look to them look for the bar code it would just say clear

jarndice

Once I have sprayed The final MATTE paint coat I do NOT use a surface coat instead I paint the area where the decals are to be applied with lots of MICROSOL then on go the decals,
Sponge off excess MICROSOL and paint the decal with MICROSET and leave alone for 12 hours, then spray with MATTE varnish.
Shaun.

philipat

Thanks. This is what you've used on all of your tanks? They look awesome!

Airbrushler

yes i spray it on everything

philipat

very nice!

Harquebus

Phenomenal information shared here, gentlemen.

I learned the age-old rule of thumb that decals require a gloss coat to adhere properly is no longer an absolute. Also learned about cheaper alternative matte coats versus the expensive hobby-grade stuff in the tiny cans.

Note to self: visit the Tank forum more often.

bhop73

Just a note.. It's not really about adhering, it's about air bubbles getting stuck in the rough finish of a matte surface and showing through the clear parts of the decal film. (silvering)