Community
Search
Notices
RC Tanks Discuss all aspects of rc tank building and driving here!

Jp 4

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-18-2016, 02:25 PM
  #76  
manchu9inf
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 687
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TheBennyB
You can paint the clear plastic barrel end. Just don't use any primer, only a light coat of the same color as your barrel. This disguises the flash unit until it functions, you'll be able to see the bright orange through the lightly painted barrel end. This is the same as the tamiya Leo 2A6.
yup, agree with B on that one.
Old 08-18-2016, 02:35 PM
  #77  
Tanker 10
 
Tanker 10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thank you manchu9inf.
Old 08-19-2016, 05:26 PM
  #78  
manchu9inf
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 687
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

The zimmerit is complete!

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 Hull zimmerit completed (1).JPG
Views:	240
Size:	2.53 MB
ID:	2177558   Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 Hull zimmerit completed (3).JPG
Views:	254
Size:	2.55 MB
ID:	2177559   Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 Hull zimmerit completed (2).JPG
Views:	285
Size:	2.67 MB
ID:	2177560   Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 Hull zimmerit completed (4).JPG
Views:	276
Size:	2.52 MB
ID:	2177561  
Old 08-19-2016, 05:31 PM
  #79  
manchu9inf
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 687
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Well, here is a problem that needs to be fixed, there is a rather large gap that will need to be filled, i think some sheet plastic should do the trick. i can't have this huge gap while fighting at Danville, too much dirt and debris will get inside the tank.

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 hull gap.JPG
Views:	278
Size:	2.28 MB
ID:	2177562  

Last edited by manchu9inf; 08-23-2016 at 05:27 AM.
Old 08-19-2016, 07:39 PM
  #80  
bowlman
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: jackson, MI
Posts: 2,240
Received 85 Likes on 69 Posts
Default

what I like to do for big gaps like that is use that sponge rubber seal that you can get for box window air conditioners for that gap between the windows not the fat stuff but the skinny stuff .

Jimmy
Old 08-20-2016, 08:30 PM
  #81  
manchu9inf
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 687
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Nothing like some good sheet plastic and some Tamiya epoxy putty to fill a pesky gap.

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 Hull Fix (3).JPG
Views:	269
Size:	2.36 MB
ID:	2177692   Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 Hull Fix (4).JPG
Views:	218
Size:	2.20 MB
ID:	2177693   Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 Hull Fix (5).JPG
Views:	208
Size:	2.32 MB
ID:	2177694   Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 Hull Fix (6).JPG
Views:	194
Size:	2.06 MB
ID:	2177695  
Old 08-21-2016, 05:57 PM
  #82  
tch2000
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: houston , TX
Posts: 414
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Looking good.
Old 08-24-2016, 06:12 PM
  #83  
manchu9inf
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 687
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Hatches are on and operational, i am concerned the CDR's hatch will block part of the back of the TBU. i held the TBU about where i think it will sit, and the hatch covers 3 of the lower fins. But i won't know for sure until i get the base mounted, i will definitely test fit this weekend.

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 hatches (1).JPG
Views:	275
Size:	2.14 MB
ID:	2178197   Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 hatches (2).JPG
Views:	258
Size:	2.12 MB
ID:	2178198  
Old 08-24-2016, 08:04 PM
  #84  
TheBennyB
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: West Grove, PA
Posts: 3,147
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Yea, see what your saying Will. Could you make the hatch removable so when your operating it's out and when it's looking pretty on the shelf placed back in? Essentially removing the hinge? Does look cool the way it is though.
Old 08-24-2016, 08:17 PM
  #85  
manchu9inf
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 687
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Bret, i followed the instructions on this one and the hatch is glued in.......... unfortunately. it does look cool and operates nice, I just need to verify the height of the TBU and see what kind of clearance there really is.
Old 08-24-2016, 08:38 PM
  #86  
TheBennyB
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: West Grove, PA
Posts: 3,147
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by manchu9inf
Bret, i followed the instructions on this one and the hatch is glued in.......... unfortunately. it does look cool and operates nice, I just need to verify the height of the TBU and see what kind of clearance there really is.
Right on, this is just like the stock Tammy T1 TC hatch that blocks the apple. Maybe the same remedy of making the hatch be able to fall flat? If it's all glued in maybe you could still mess with the hinge a bit if it comes to that. Not a huge deal, I'll bring the side cutters with me at inspection time, snip here...snip there...good to go...he he.
Old 08-25-2016, 05:23 AM
  #87  
kinzavrop
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Will, can you get the large hatch to open completely flat rather than at a 90 degree angle? If not is there a stop that can be filed down to allow it to lay flat? I like my hatches to be functional but in order to fight without it blocking the apple you will have to think of something "outside the box". I am surprised that they did not make the hatch similar to the one on the KV where it just pops out for apple install.
Marty
Old 08-25-2016, 07:31 AM
  #88  
manchu9inf
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 687
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Unfortunately it wont lay flat, what i am thinking about doing is make some kind of a riser so the TBU base will be taller.
Old 08-25-2016, 09:05 AM
  #89  
ausf
 
ausf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: , NY
Posts: 3,084
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by manchu9inf
Unfortunately it wont lay flat, what i am thinking about doing is make some kind of a riser so the TBU base will be taller.
The low profile is an advantage.

Couldn't you use styrene stock to extend the hinges and create sockets for them? Slide the hatch in and out of place.

I sure I'm wrong, but I thought early club rules allowed for hatches if they were part of the original tank design, just not added items like fuel cans, etc. could block the TBU.

The early Tiger I was designed to clip in place, where the later cupolas pivoted out. I thought the Tiger I was okay to block the part of the TBU that it does. I don't know about Danville, but that's the way we fight here. If it's part of the tank, it's part of the tank.
Old 08-25-2016, 03:22 PM
  #90  
manchu9inf
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 687
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

well, it is confirmed, the Apple is too short.
I guess, i am IFA from the back and not the front! i could maybe raise it, but then the hatch wouldn't completely close, i might have to decide to roll as is.


Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 Apple height (1).JPG
Views:	240
Size:	2.24 MB
ID:	2178266   Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 Apple height (2).JPG
Views:	189
Size:	1.98 MB
ID:	2178267   Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 Apple height (3).JPG
Views:	258
Size:	2.03 MB
ID:	2178268   Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 Apple height (4).JPG
Views:	197
Size:	2.06 MB
ID:	2178269   Click image for larger version

Name:	JP 4 Apple height (5).JPG
Views:	248
Size:	2.43 MB
ID:	2178270  

Last edited by manchu9inf; 09-12-2016 at 05:09 AM.
Old 08-25-2016, 06:07 PM
  #91  
TheBennyB
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: West Grove, PA
Posts: 3,147
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

So Will, technically that will pass an A.C.E inspection since you'd be running TFA I would assume and we do our hit tests past 10' at the 45's. This said your still going to get guff for sure. Unless your planning on displaying it with a TC and it were me I would just cut the bottom of the hinge out and either have it completely out for operating then lay it back in flat for display. Hell it may even lay up right itself with the weight of the hatch and the hinge arms still attached to the hatch.
Old 08-25-2016, 06:17 PM
  #92  
TheBennyB
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: West Grove, PA
Posts: 3,147
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by ausf
The low profile is an advantage.

Couldn't you use styrene stock to extend the hinges and create sockets for them? Slide the hatch in and out of place.

I sure I'm wrong, but I thought early club rules allowed for hatches if they were part of the original tank design, just not added items like fuel cans, etc. could block the TBU.

The early Tiger I was designed to clip in place, where the later cupolas pivoted out. I thought the Tiger I was okay to block the part of the TBU that it does. I don't know about Danville, but that's the way we fight here. If it's part of the tank, it's part of the tank.
Jeff, your not completely wrong. Just as you said if it was in the manual to assemble it was good to go. Just heard too much belly aching about apples being blocked and the "so I have to get a tamiya to block my apple" comments. This lead to no obstructions of the apple which can also include things such as the .50cal, permanently attached "riding figures", exhaust/air intake ducts on landing shermans, etc. It's a drag to monitor this stuff, especially when it's a new tanker that just spent hours on details such as these to tell them they gotta go. For the most part everyone understands and most likely never really knew the in's and out's of the tamiya battle unit.
Old 08-25-2016, 06:36 PM
  #93  
TheBennyB
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: West Grove, PA
Posts: 3,147
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Also Jeff, we first do the hit test before we ask a tanker if they can remove an obstruction. It's not just a visual observation. So if a tammy t1 comes to inspection with it's stock TC hatch and it takes hits from the obstructed side it's good to go. Never want to make a builder mess with their stuff unless necessary for fair play.
Old 08-25-2016, 06:37 PM
  #94  
manchu9inf
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 687
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Bret, Since this is a TD and will be TFA, and can get hit at the .45 angle will it matter?
Old 08-25-2016, 06:38 PM
  #95  
TheBennyB
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: West Grove, PA
Posts: 3,147
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

yea, inside 10'. Theoretically you could reverse into action and never get hit from that side, then unleash a death blossom. Like you said, your rear end is IFA or I guess IRA. Guessing you'll be the first with this one at Danville Will, we can do some testing on it. Either way not a big deal.

Last edited by TheBennyB; 08-25-2016 at 06:49 PM.
Old 08-25-2016, 07:25 PM
  #96  
manchu9inf
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 687
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

yea, its kind of a bum deal that out of the box it is set up that way, it would definitely take some work to raise the height.
Old 08-25-2016, 07:52 PM
  #97  
TheBennyB
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: West Grove, PA
Posts: 3,147
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by manchu9inf
yea, its kind of a bum deal that out of the box it is set up that way, it would definitely take some work to raise the height.
Definitely wouldn't raise the apple. Takes away from the low profile. Would rather look at getting the hatch removable or able to lay flat if need be.
Old 08-25-2016, 08:07 PM
  #98  
TheBennyB
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: West Grove, PA
Posts: 3,147
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Out of curiosity where do they have you mount the emitter? Barrel clip? Any room in the sau/mantlet for a recessed tube?
Old 08-25-2016, 08:22 PM
  #99  
manchu9inf
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 687
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Its a clip on, going through the mantlet would require a lot of work, especially drilling through the mantlet and the gun shield behind that, i will post pics when i get to the gun installation probably later this weekend.
Old 08-26-2016, 03:28 AM
  #100  
Panther F
 
Panther F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Franklin, IN
Posts: 9,772
Received 41 Likes on 38 Posts
Default

Huh? What ever happened to "well that's just the advantage this tank brings to the field" than trying to redesign the tanks features? I guess I missed that part in the Thunder Rules.

NOT TO SOUND LIKE I'M WHINING ABOUT RULES but wouldn't it just lead to finding 'other ways' to defeat the guy with the distinct advantage than make them all cardboard boxes with an apple mounted?

That is unfortunate it blocks the apple (I would have never thought it would) but be even worse if it looked different just to be legal.


BTW... the tank is looking good Will.




Jeff


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.