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Old 12-05-2016, 09:54 AM
  #26  
Sky_HawK
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Got the metal tracks all detailed up and on the tank for now. Still need to find a glue for the pads, I've tried 3 different types of CA and Shoe Goo, nothing sticks to the rubber and I can barely get adhesion to the metal. It drives horrible with them on too, binds up pretty badly and the gearboxes are screaming in pain. Going to get the Ultimate II gearboxes in there soon. Here's some pictures for now and even though they suck to drive right now they look really good.
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Old 12-05-2016, 10:01 AM
  #27  
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Looks great!
Try this stuff you first apply the primer let it set for a min or 2 then use the CA it makes it stick to stuff that CA normally don't stick to,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Loctite-Plas...MAAOSw8gVX2vO9


Originally Posted by Sky_HawK
Got the metal tracks all detailed up and on the tank for now. Still need to find a glue for the pads, I've tried 3 different types of CA and Shoe Goo, nothing sticks to the rubber and I can barely get adhesion to the metal. It drives horrible with them on too, binds up pretty badly and the gearboxes are screaming in pain. Going to get the Ultimate II gearboxes in there soon. Here's some pictures for now and even though they suck to drive right now they look really good.
Old 12-05-2016, 12:02 PM
  #28  
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I thought people were putting the pads on these and then dropping CA glue into the holes on wheel side of the tracks. HL524 said he only threw a few pads using this method while filming his extreme off road videos.


The Tamiya tracks come with the rubber pads permanently attached. Have yet to damage or lose a single one.

Last edited by pcsguy88; 12-05-2016 at 12:05 PM.
Old 12-05-2016, 06:16 PM
  #29  
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I can try that, but CA just doesn't stick to the rubber at all.
Old 12-05-2016, 06:28 PM
  #30  
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It sounds like the rubber may be vynil or maybe silicon, If you use the locktite and use the primer and coat the parts first it should stick.
Originally Posted by Sky_HawK
I can try that, but CA just doesn't stick to the rubber at all.
Old 12-05-2016, 06:53 PM
  #31  
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I searched around again and nobody seems to have found the magic glue for the pads. Can you buy a big bag of spare pads to last a lifetime?
Old 12-05-2016, 07:37 PM
  #32  
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That would be exceptionally annoying lol, I peeled 8 of them off in about 30 seconds driving indoors. I'll find something eventually I hope, otherwise these tracks were a big waste of money. The Abrams track pads are two pieces inner and outer and are glued to each other pretty well.
Old 12-06-2016, 10:34 AM
  #33  
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Maybe that's why the Abrams tracks are more expensive at Mato. Possible I'll still pick them up if my Abrams is unable to find functional traction when I finally get it outdoors. Extremely annoying when your tank cannot climb a grass or dirt incline because it is just sitting there spinning it's tracks. I found the stock leopard tracks so slick that it was worthless on carpet.
Old 12-06-2016, 01:27 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by pcsguy88
Maybe that's why the Abrams tracks are more expensive at Mato. Possible I'll still pick them up if my Abrams is unable to find functional traction when I finally get it outdoors. Extremely annoying when your tank cannot climb a grass or dirt incline because it is just sitting there spinning it's tracks. I found the stock leopard tracks so slick that it was worthless on carpet.
Exactly why they had my attention with these, adding weight is good and the pads I was hoping wouldn't let the tank slide on rocks or not be able to climb like you said. Almost wishing I would have found some Tamiya tracks now, but they wouldn't be as heavy.

On a brighter note, I ordered a set of Ultimate II gearboxes!
Old 12-06-2016, 06:33 PM
  #35  
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Yeah, that's why I use metal roadwheels for the weight. They do not effect performance and do not weigh down the hull since they just spin at the end of the arms. I wish Tamiya made some Abrams tracks!
Old 12-07-2016, 10:51 AM
  #36  
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I just hate plastic tracks, all my tanks have metal now except the Sherman, but it will eventually.
Old 12-07-2016, 01:16 PM
  #37  
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My 1st 3 are metal, my last 4 are plastic. Do not need the droop on tanks with skirts. The Tamiya ones are my favorite because the double-pinned joints are metal, links are a hard plastic and the pads are rubber. Definitely heavier and sturdier than the stock ones and as flexible as your metal ones. Way too expensive.
Old 12-13-2016, 11:56 AM
  #38  
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Today has been good so far! Installed Ultimate II gearboxes and printed another speaker box for the FRS7. I also grabbed some Liquid Nails at the hardware store to see if it will hold the pads on, fingers crossed. The gearboxes are pretty nice from what I can tell, could use some shimming on the gear shafts to limit the lateral play but they mesh good and are pretty quiet. Will report on how the motors do, might have to upgrade to 400's and heatsink/fan the MFU. I want this tank to actually be able to drive up some stuff eventually.
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Old 12-13-2016, 12:23 PM
  #39  
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Hi did you try the one I linked the loctite one with the primer pen you coat both sides to be glued and let it dry and then use there CA glue to bond the parts together?
Originally Posted by Sky_HawK
Got the metal tracks all detailed up and on the tank for now. Still need to find a glue for the pads, I've tried 3 different types of CA and Shoe Goo, nothing sticks to the rubber and I can barely get adhesion to the metal. It drives horrible with the on too, binds up pretty badly and the gearboxes are screaming in pain. Going to get the Ultimate II gearboxes in there soon. Here's some pictures for now and even though they suck to drive right now they look really good.
Old 12-13-2016, 12:25 PM
  #40  
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I didn't, there wasn't any at the store. Liquid Nails holds extremely well, it's just the question of does it stick to this weird cheap rubber.
Old 12-13-2016, 12:25 PM
  #41  
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Cool! what are those blue motors are they faster and more powerful than the stock ones?
Originally Posted by Sky_HawK
Today has been good so far! Installed Ultimate II gearboxes and printed another speaker box for the FRS7. I also grabbed some Liquid Nails at the hardware store to see if it will hold the pads on, fingers crossed. The gearboxes are pretty nice from what I can tell, could use some shimming on the gear shafts to limit the lateral play but they mesh good and are pretty quiet. Will report on how the motors do, might have to upgrade to 400's and heatsink/fan the MFU. I want this tank to actually be able to drive up some stuff eventually.
Old 12-13-2016, 12:26 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Sky_HawK
I didn't, there wasn't any at the store. Liquid Nails holds extremely well, it's just the question of does it stick to this weird cheap rubber.
Maybe good old contact cement may work coat both sides of whet has to be glued let it dry for a while and press them together?
Old 12-13-2016, 12:57 PM
  #43  
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The blue motors came with the gearboxes, they are a higher speed than stock supposedly. I just ran it around the office and it is pretty fast, much faster than the plastic gearboxes that were in there, but the tracks are pretty stiff and not running smoothly. I think they need to be broken in to the sprockets, letting them run for a few minutes seemed to help but they are very jerky and don't mesh with the sprocket teeth very well.

I'm going to pull all the pads off again and see if running the tank breaks everything in to each other and then try the Liquid Nails on the pads.
Old 12-13-2016, 02:41 PM
  #44  
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Cool do they sell those blue motors seperatly?
Bummer on the tracks.
Originally Posted by Sky_HawK
The blue motors came with the gearboxes, they are a higher speed than stock supposedly. I just ran it around the office and it is pretty fast, much faster than the plastic gearboxes that were in there, but the tracks are pretty stiff and not running smoothly. I think they need to be broken in to the sprockets, letting them run for a few minutes seemed to help but they are very jerky and don't mesh with the sprocket teeth very well.

I'm going to pull all the pads off again and see if running the tank breaks everything in to each other and then try the Liquid Nails on the pads.
Old 12-13-2016, 03:53 PM
  #45  
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I haven't seen the motors separate. I want to install 400's and heatsink the MFU, just because I can lol. More torque is welcome now that the drivetrain will handle it. Just need to brace the idlers and get metal tension arms.
Old 12-13-2016, 04:15 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Sky_HawK
I haven't seen the motors separate. I want to install 400's and heatsink the MFU, just because I can lol. More torque is welcome now that the drivetrain will handle it. Just need to brace the idlers and get metal tension arms.
They sell 390's on e-bay that are not to expensive for the HL tanks they say they are more powerful and faster than stock and you must use metal gearboxes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PCs-Upgrad...UAAOSwstxVbetu

Description:
Item Name: Brushed Motor
Power Cable Length: About 15cm
Diameter: About 27.36mm
Length: About 51.22mm
Shaft Diameter: About 2.3mm
Shaft Length: About 11.93mm
Motor Gear Diameter: About 7.02mm
It is the second generation brushed motor, featuring 3 times torque force and rotation speed.
It is suitable for mainboard of 1/16 RC Tanks, German Tiger, German Panther, Soviet Russia T34, Chinese Type-99, etc.

[TABLE="width: 500"]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 2"]Voltage[/TD]
[TD="colspan: 2"]No Load[/TD]
[TD="colspan: 5"]At Maximum Efficiency[/TD]
[TD="colspan: 3"]Stall[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Operating Range[/TD]
[TD]Nominal[/TD]
[TD]Speed[/TD]
[TD]Current[/TD]
[TD]Speed[/TD]
[TD]Current[/TD]
[TD="colspan: 2"]Torque[/TD]
[TD]Output[/TD]
[TD="colspan: 2"]Torque[/TD]
[TD]Current[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 1"]4.5-9.8V[/TD]
[TD]6.0V[/TD]
[TD]r/min[/TD]
[TD]A[/TD]
[TD]r/min[/TD]
[TD]A[/TD]
[TD]g.cm[/TD]
[TD]mN.m[/TD]
[TD]W[/TD]
[TD]g.cm[/TD]
[TD]mN.m[/TD]
[TD]A[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]13800[/TD]
[TD]0.66[/TD]
[TD]12109[/TD]
[TD]4.6[/TD]
[TD]156.1[/TD]
[TD]15.3[/TD]
[TD]19.4[/TD]
[TD]1253[/TD]
[TD]122.8[/TD]
[TD]32.5

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

Last edited by shenlonco; 12-13-2016 at 04:25 PM.
Old 12-13-2016, 06:00 PM
  #47  
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Almost got a set but opted to try the full HL gearboxes first. They seem decent, better than the stock plastic for sure.
Old 12-13-2016, 06:19 PM
  #48  
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The black Taigens in the V2 gears pushed that side of the tank faster than the Graupner 400 I dropped in the opposite side. Surprised me.

I ordered 4 390's from Banebots, but the sent me 360's instead and never replied to my emails, so I gave up.
Old 12-13-2016, 06:44 PM
  #49  
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Yea I wonder if those red 390 motors will blow your stock no electronics?
Originally Posted by pcsguy88
The black Taigens in the V2 gears pushed that side of the tank faster than the Graupner 400 I dropped in the opposite side. Surprised me.

I ordered 4 390's from Banebots, but the sent me 360's instead and never replied to my emails, so I gave up.
Old 12-14-2016, 10:08 AM
  #50  
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said the hell with it and ordered a pair of the red 390 motors to try out...... I have plastic gearboxes so i will have to be real easy on it! Probably will do a video showing the difference between the HL motors and these red ones.


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