shenlonco

My Feedback: (2)

Hi guy's what do you guy's use on your HL roas wheels for lube?
I used to use a dry lube but that was over 5 years ago and now they no longer make it.
Shen....

Sky_HawK

I've used black high pressure grease from my race kits and it has worked. I have also used 17.5wt shock oil but it wicks around pretty good and can make a bit of a mess over time.

shenlonco

My Feedback: (2)

I think I may try some of the super thin airsoft spray lube it kind of absorbs into the plastic it's so thin like water.

CaptainB

I've never liked putting lube on the roadwheels as it collects dirt and dust when running. I also quite like the squeaky noise you get when things just aren't that well lubed. Of course, lack of lubrication implies friction somewhere which means more wear but for the amount of time I run my tanks, don't see this as an issue. If I do lube the roadwheels, I tend to remove them or during the build, apply some lithium grease so that it's contained inside the roadwheel bush/bearing minimising the dirt gathering effect!!!

cheers

CaptB

Dusty Steppes

Powdered graphite. A bottle should last you a lifetime.

shenlonco

My Feedback: (2)

I used to use a liquid type dry lube that dry graphite stuff is way to messy.

Strato50

I have a bottle of high-speed oil laying around that the hobby store guy said was for car bearings, it's lasted years and I use it sparingly.

If your tank does not have ball bearing wheels use little to no lubrication, it really only makes more grit and dust stick in there.

Sky_HawK

I've only used a super thin film of it on metal bushing idler wheels lately, the roadwheels all seem to be pretty free on my tanks. I let them squeak, makes it a little more real.

TheBennyB

I never use a wet lubricant anywhere that may come in contact with dirt/debris. I use a powdered PTFE, works great.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Labelle-134-...cAAOSwmLlYB9nx

shenlonco

My Feedback: (2)

Hi guy's this is what i will be using it also comes in a bottle and is safe on everything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWupi4Q9tfc

Der alte Fritz

I am using a graphite lubricant designed for locks. It's a very thin liquid containing graphite. The liquid is supposed to carry the graphite into the mechanism and will evaporate leaving the graphite behind. The only reason I picked this is because I thought it might work without attracting too much dirt outside. I am new to this hobby and beginning to understand that running a large model outside requires almost as much tlc as running a real tank.
My all-metal Taigen Tiger 1 had two road-wheels frozen solid within a couple months after I got it. I removed the wheels and axles, cleaned them and put a couple drops of the lube on the axles before re-assembly. So far, so good. It has lasted over a months of almost daily use outdoors.

shenlonco

My Feedback: (2)

That stuff is good but i think it's messy graphite compared to other type non graphite dry lubes.

Imex-Erik

This for me as well. I tend not to lube my road wheels. I run in a lot of sand so I just hit mine with the air compressor when I'm done. The squeaks from the wheels I like to hear, I don't like to hear it from the speaker.

Der alte Fritz

I like the idea of wheel squeak and will try to run them dry again. My problem was that my wheels locked up and drive performance dropped. I knew I didn't want to use oil or grease so my lock lubricant was the best thing I could find around the house.
If dry running just doesn't work for me I will try powdered graphite. If have found a container of it from my HO railroading days; used to use it in the couplers.

Reinhard