Sir Ken

Taigen Sherman M4A3 76mm Metal Edition (assembled) purchased on 12/17/16 from http://www.taigentanks.com/taigen/sherman-76mm

I will skip the initial issues I've had with the pins in the treads just working their way out and the tracks separating. I've contacted the web site, via their contact page, and was instructed to "...add a drop of super glue when installing the track pin back in or you can even try some blue Loctite thread locker."

This seems odd to me considering it was on its first battery charge and the tracks separated into three pieces.

After adding a drop of super glue to each pin head, I'm still having issue with the tracks meshing with the drive gear at the front of the tank.



The gear does not seem to mesh with the spacing of the metal tank track. It doesn't climb on top of the gear in the same place every time. There doesn't seem to be any logic or consistency in the meshing issue. It is enough for the tank to veer to one side or the other depending on which side this occurs.

The drive gear not meshing with the track is one issue, the other is, when it happens, it causes the track to grind away at the upper portion of the tank body. This is causing additional damage to the body on top of screwing the drive gear up.



I'm sure this is minor to you folks but fairly frustrating for a $500.00 brand new toy.

Would one of you fine gentlemen or ladies please suggest this new comer a solution to these issues?

I will now go and do some reading on this forum to see if others are having the same sort of issues.

Thanks in advance.

Markocaster

I would contact Imex-Eric on this forum.
He is a great resource and very helpful. He will have the answers you need

Pcomm1.v2

Maybe... If your tank has adjustable idlers (see your manual), your tracks look like they are adjusted a touch to tight. Look at other photos of your tank online and note the slack to the tracks just prior to the drive sprocket. Google it for images, and if you can add a little slack to your tracks, matching what you see on your tank to what you see on the Taigen Sherman Tank photos online...you should be good to run.

John

Panther F

My concern is that glue has seeped into the link and is binding up? OR... there is a casting burr on the link and is causing the mesh problem with the sprocket?

It's really hard to see the whole problem with just a few images. Sometimes paint can cause this bunching up/binding issue, track tension too... a lot of tiny problems that are easily overlooked with someone new to RC tanks.

I would pull the tracks off and inspect them individually for free movement and at that time test all the pins to see if they are secured. A tiny drop of glue/adhesive at the opposite end of the head is all that is needed to secure the pin. Don't use a super thin formula!


The worst case scenario... send the tracks to someone from right here to see what's going on, just don't give up. It can be fixed!




Jeff

Sir Ken

It does not occur at the same place on either track which tells me it's not a stuck or bound part of the track. This meshing issue was happening right out of the box, before super glue/pin fix.

That's why I was scratching my head, it's not reoccuring on the same gear tooth or same link.

Does it tell you anything that it does not happen when reversing the motor? When running in reverse, both tracks run smooth?

The tracks only get right when it runs up on top of the drive gear's tooth. I don't see any tension adjustment but I will look again.

Thanks for all of your input. I'll go back and look at each gap between each link for consistency. I'll also verfy that each link is flexing at its pivot point, as well as look for any nomallies in the drive gear.

Tanker 10

I'm having the same problem. Not as nice a runner as my 75mm Taigen Sherman. I will switch/trade the tracks between the two when I have time and see if the 75mm tracks run any smoother on the 76mm Sherman.

Panther F

I think John has the right answer then... sounds like track tension to me and maybe some tiny issue with the sprocket pitch. SOMETIMES, the length/width of the actual sprocket tooth can affect how it meshes.





Jeff

RichJohnson

Interesting the duckbill tracks are causing issues. The new sprocket is a chrystler or Fisher body style open type as opposed to the plain PSC type that came on the 75mm taigen, mim wondering if its a sprocket or track issue. As I do not yet own a 76 chassis I cant help till next month.

If any boy has both tanks, swap the tracks on both tanks. See if the problem folows the tracks or the sprockets that came in the 76.

Sir Ken

Do you think I should order a new set of the old style sprocket? Do they interchange?

ausf

I would have bet money on Jeff's answer. Sounds like a binding pin to me, especially since it doesn't catch on every turn over the sprocket.

Panther F

I also wonder... are both inside/outside of the track acting the same way?

Just curious if the sprocket is 'keyed' right... meaning, it is in time with the inside of the sprocket? But it was said that it's okay in reverse so maybe not.




Jeff

RichJohnson

Looking at a blow up of picture 2 it almost looks like the forward track pad on the sproket is out of line with the trailing track pad trying to key into the sprocket.

Im wondering if the track pin has slipped loose toward the inside and the outer link has come loose and lost its placement.

im going to suggest besfore you do anything else, remove the tracks by popping off the cover from the sprocket, unscrew the sprocket and take the outside half off and remove the track. Inspect it link by link for free flex and fully inplace pins. Do this on both sides, you might be surprised at what you find.

superrod

My Feedback: (16)

In the second picture you can see two links that look in line and not bent like they should be. On my T34 I had a couple of links that would stick when they should pivot on the pin. All I had to do is pull the pin and hit the high spot with a file and get rid of just little bits of casting flash and all was good. I don't think it was more than .010 that was making it stick.
Jimmy

Sir Ken

As much as I appreciate the input here the track meshing is still an issue. I consider myself pretty handy when it comes to fixing things; engine rebuilds, automotive body work, residential/commercial electrical work, etc but this one is baffling me. I guess I'll reach out to the seller and see if they are willing to send another set of tracks or drive gears or both. I don't see where this should fall on the purchaser but I'm also realistic.

RichJohnson

You really need to call Taigen on Tuesday and talk to Erik.

You might have a set of bad tracks or something because so far nobody else has complained about the 76 duckbill tracks and they have been out for a little bit now.


I got a set of mato tracks that the connector pins are all bent inside and the pair is ruined brand new. No help from that distributor there sadly....

Taigen will take care of you.

Imex-Erik

Hey guys, yes definitely send me a message about this. I've been away from the forums for a few days I apologize. I'll check this out and see what I can do. We will reopen on Tuesday, we have tomorrow off. You can reach me direct at [email protected] and make sure to include as much info as you can.

Sir Ken

Yep, did reach out once the initial issue was found and Erik was the one who pointed me to gluing the pins. I have sent an additional email to Erik on the ongoing track meshing issue. I'm confident a solution will be found once we get past the holidays.

Thanks for everyone's assistance.

regsbyg

I was going to order these tracks for my earlier Taigen Sherman but will now wait until this issue is fixed. Late M4A3 in European theatre look best with these tracks and where very common.
dave

Sir Ken

Erik is all over this issue. You should not be concerned with what's happening to my tracks. Looks like it's an anomaly and we're arranging the return of my tank for closer review.