mcovalsk

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tomhugill

The recoil servo has always been there. The pictures you show also seem to show the jumper on the same pins.

tomhugill

J3 has always been the IR emitter. J2 the servo recoil (which is where you put the jump and always have).

sollie

Just to make sure .
You placed jumper like this ?






I have both tk22-24-60 and use that position for the jumper when using Sony remote . Nothing have changed on the layout on the boards .

mcovalsk

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mcovalsk

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maillemaker

So are the jumper labels on the board correct?

In other words, they changed position but the labels are still correct?

Steve

Dusty Steppes

I am waiting on a new TK22 Panther board. I'll be comparing the labels with an older board before I hook anything up.

maillemaker

Well, I don't have one of these boards, but I agree it sure is confusing.

If you look at this page for the TK20-series:

http://www.clark-model.com/eng/prod_rx20/index.html

They show:



But if you look at this TK22 Tutorial:

http://www.clark-model.com/eng/prod_rx20_tu/index.html

They show:



So it looks to me like:
1) There is a difference between the TK20-series page board and the TK22-series page board.
2) The jumper is in the same location, but a different jumper designation (J2 on the TK20, J3 on the TK22).

So I would be confused trying to figure out where to put the jumper. I probably would have ignored the picture and gone by the jumper designation. If the instructions said jumper J2, then I would jumper J2 as designated on the board, rather than what the instructions show.

Steve

rgburrill

The picture is referenced for the jumper for the recoil servo, not the elevation servo. And it does look like the TK20 and TK22 boards have different jumper locations. Shows the importance of RTFM and not just looking at pictures.

mcovalsk

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mcovalsk

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maillemaker

My question is, does the documentation say to plug into the correct jumper name or not?

If the documentation says plug into J2, and you plug into J2 on the board (regardless of what the picture shows), then I would think that is the correct thing to do - go with what is labeled on the board.


Steve

Strato50

Nothing has changed, follow the manual...

tomhugill

As always RTFM

mcovalsk

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mcovalsk

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rgburrill

Hey, the change the part number. Any engineer knows that can mean significant changes.

mcovalsk

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Dusty Steppes

If you are referring to the new panther tk22 that I am waiting on, if it hasn't boarded a slow boat from China by now it soon will be. I will take a look at it when I get it. The last I heard was that the Chinese new year is delaying it.

Crius

It's a good thing this is RCU, where the moderation is almost non-existent, because at most tank forums that I know of, you'd get banned for deleting all those posts like that.

Cruiser133

Ahh Gary, I think he realized he stepped in it. I understand his frustrations and the man makes good builds. No denying his talent bro. BTW, you think your meatchickens will actually beat my beloved Buckeyes next year?

Pcomm1.v2

Another Clark Board Warning!

I do have some successful first time experience with the Clark Board Setup (photos below) and I found the following to be the undeniable truth: purchase ELMOD and that is my best recommend to solve any Clark Board problems:

Find the solution here: https://www.elmod.eu/index.php?langu...u97mbreehhc1t3

You got to love the Clark stick commands though, OK, maybe not.



John

tomhugill

Although no everyone has a computer radio, those with can transfer all those fiddly stick commands onto switches instead which I find a big help.

Pcomm1.v2

Hi Tom,

You just had to go and spoil my Clark fun with facts! For example, the Benedini and (Dan's out of production) BARC are spec'd into WIP Tamiya Gepard Flakpanzer and the Futaba 8JA 8 Channel 2.4 is the selected transmitter & receiver setup. My new favorite Futaba transmitter.

John