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  1. #1

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    Clark Board Help?

    Hello all:

    I had my newly purchased Tiger out on the IR battlefield this weekend for the first time and I am having lots of trouble getting the controls down for the Clark board.

    To elevate/lower my gun it is 3/4 stick forward on the right/left: unfortunately whenever I do this the gun fires. Not something you want happening if you are behind a team member or if your trying to set up a shot.

    Is there any way to change this on the Clark board? I was going to put a momentary push button on for the fire but it is my understanding that pushing forward on the left stick is still going to fire the gun (as does trying to lower/elevate).

    My lights are also funky; I think it is 3/4 partially down to activate; this is the same function that my start motor is so I end up with or without lights (it depends on and isn't reliable).

    Is there any way to change these controls? Do I need to purchase a different brand board to have more user friendly controls? If a new board is necessary: is there a newbie friendly one that is available?

    Any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Skip

  2. #2

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    I use a Turnigy 9x radio to control TK22s and have it set up so the engine start, lights, machine gun, main gun, elevation and depression functions are assigned to individual switches.

  3. #3
    I have a 9X too and my set up is basically the same as Dusty's except my left stick left to right is turret rotation and left stick up and down is main gun up or down so real easy. Right stick is purely for driving. (Both sticks self centering) Everything else is on switches and I especially like my gun on my spring switch so don't have to worry about leaving it on...
    "There are things in Russia which are not as they seem..."
    Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov

    Too many Tanks, not enough time...


  4. #4

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    Skip I'm from the Hanover area if you ever need to have someone look at it.

    Or PM me your number and i'll call ya.
    Troy

  5. #5

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    I should have put this above, this is what I am running:

    4:1 Taigen gearboxes
    Clark TK22 installed and programmed for IR Battle using Tamiya IR Code.
    Tamiya IR emitter and Tamiya Battle Unit
    Clark Servo elevation and servo recoil installed.
    TARR metal smoke unit.
    HKT6 Radio System 2.4ghz Hobby Grade

    Will the above configuration work with the 9x?

    How hard is it for a person with basically no RC knowledge to set up that unit?

    I looked it up and they seem to come without a receiver: how do I know which one I would need to buy?

    I take it the buttons are on the controller? It is hard to see on the pictures what is there.

    I need to put a right stick return kit on my current transmitter so I would consider buying a new one if it makes the tank easier for my son and I to run.

    Thanks for the input!

    Skip

  6. #6

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    It isn't hard to setup. You just need help.

    Just to be clear the only real issue is the gun accidentally firing? You can adjust the limits of you TX with your PC ( if you have the cable). This will help with the gun firing.

    The ability to change the stick functions is a limitation of the board since those functions are tired to that channel.
    Troy

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rustytrax View Post
    It isn't hard to setup. You just need help.

    Just to be clear the only real issue is the gun accidentally firing? You can adjust the limits of you TX with your PC ( if you have the cable). This will help with the gun firing.

    The ability to change the stick functions is a limitation of the board since those functions are tired to that channel.
    Yes: when I try to elevate or lower my gun it fires (not all of the time) and it is very frustrating. The fire feature works fine but it fires on the left and right 3/4 setting more often then not. The lights are a pain to try to turn on but I can live without them.

    Thanks,

    Skip

  8. #8

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    I don't have that controller so this may not be 100%. I believe you can set the limit on the controll to 110% for Ch3. and use the mixer to set the prefered switch to send 110% signal to CH 3. This way the switch fires the gun but pushing up and down on the stick wont as long as you have the trim zeroed which you would since you have servo for elevation. BTW you really need to have the centering spring kit so you dont fight to keep the gun from moving.
    Troy

  9. #9

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    He's got a spring on the gun/turret channels. He needs the lever and spring for the throttle channel. Anyone remember where to grab one of those for the T6A?
    AAF # 111284-25
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    www.tankace.org

  10. #10

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    Here is the programming cable : https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobby-ki...usb-cable.html

    You can use the HKT6 free software, or buy and download Digital Radio, (preferred)
    http://www.sgr.info/usbradio/screens.htm

  11. #11

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    Here is where my lack of knowledge is going to hurt.

    Does the cable go to my transmitter or my board? I followed the link to Digital Radio but I have no idea what I am looking at. Is there a video out there somewhere that will explain all of this to me? Can I make the changes on my current radio or do I need a new one?

    Sorry folks I am trying to be user friendly but I do not understand a lot of this. I am finally comfortable with changing batteries without worrying about breaking something.

    Skip

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBennyB View Post
    He's got a spring on the gun/turret channels. He needs the lever and spring for the throttle channel. Anyone remember where to grab one of those for the T6A?
    Can you just rotate the gimbal 90 degrees on the stick that is not self centering. Undo four screws and rotate the assembly 90 degrees. This results in a stick the self centers on the vertical, but not on the horizontal.. So on the throttte channel this means letting go of the stick the throttle will return to neutral. YHR (Dan) did this I believe a while back. I was always going to try it, but I like being able to leave the tank in Creep (cruise control)

  13. #13

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    If your going the route of leaving steering non-centering you can just remove the lever and spring from the side to side axis and move it to the up/down gimbal I would think. Then you don't have to take much apart, just swapping.
    AAF # 111284-25
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    www.tankace.org

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by skip2a View Post
    Here is where my lack of knowledge is going to hurt.

    Does the cable go to my transmitter or my board? I followed the link to Digital Radio but I have no idea what I am looking at. Is there a video out there somewhere that will explain all of this to me? Can I make the changes on my current radio or do I need a new one?

    Sorry folks I am trying to be user friendly but I do not understand a lot of this. I am finally comfortable with changing batteries without worrying about breaking something.

    Skip
    The cable plugs into your PC and radio. The cable will have free software when you install it. The Digital Radio software is $2 i think. Once you have the cable hooked up to your radio you can then change all your parameters. You can change channels, for instance if you want the left stick to drive the tank instead of the right stick you can change it. If you want the main gun to fire on the down instead of up you can change it. Its also where you can mix channels and set your endpoints like Rustytrax explained. Its a learning curve but doable. Once done you can safe your settings. You can always come back and change things, if you mess it up, just go back to a previous version you saved. You can save several TK radios on there so if you get more tanks you can use the same software. You could have 1 radio and several tanks. Then you just in the radio to the PC and download your save setting for whatever tank you want to run. Much simpler than explained, lol. I am sure others can explain it easier than I can.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBennyB View Post
    If your going the route of leaving steering non-centering you can just remove the lever and spring from the side to side axis and move it to the up/down gimbal I would think. Then you don't have to take much apart, just swapping.
    Yes! That also works. A little more work, but you can remove the centering device on the left stick and copy it to a piece of styrene, get a small spring from the hardware store and make one. More work though.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty54 View Post
    Yes! That also works. A little more work, but you can remove the centering device on the left stick and copy it to a piece of styrene, get a small spring from the hardware store and make one. More work though.
    I was just saying to swap the steering gimbal lever/spring to the throttle channel gimbal. Won't have self centering on steering but throttle will now be. Would take 2 min.
    Know kevin at rctanksau has the lever for the turnigy 9X, are they the same?
    AAF # 111284-25
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  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBennyB View Post
    I was just saying to swap the steering gimbal lever/spring to the throttle channel gimbal. Won't have self centering on steering but throttle will now be. Would take 2 min.
    Know kevin at rctanksau has the lever for the turnigy 9X, are they the same?
    I meant its more work to make one from styrene, but can be done.

    I think the Turnigy is different, same with Spectrum.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty54 View Post
    I meant its more work to make one from styrene, but can be done.

    I think the Turnigy is different, same with Spectrum.
    Ahhh, got ya.
    AAF # 111284-25
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  19. #19

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    Thanks for all of the feedback!

    I will order the cable today and get the radio program linked above. I will give it a try; the most I can do is screw it up and have to ask for help again.A

    Also ordering the return arm/spring for the transmitter (thanks Bret).

    I sent you a PM Rusty.

    Skip


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