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Tamiya King Tiger Build

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Old 04-17-2017, 03:05 PM
  #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rad_Schuhart View Post
I want to install a gearbox brace too, but Im a bit scared of drilling the holes wrong and having misalignement. Hope somebody makes a gearbox brace that does not need to enlarge the holes.

I want to replace the idler tensioner too (No idea which one to install) and replace the tracks with a metal ones. Does anybody know if the mato tracks are compatible with the tamiya sprochets? I have heard mixed opinions.
To pile onto Robert's response to your first comment, the hull brace installation is pretty much idiot proof. All you need to do is use the existing 4 holes as a guide to enlarge.
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Old 04-18-2017, 03:05 PM
  #27
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On to installing the upgrade idler system kit. This portion is more complicated than the hull brace so I've been taking my time to read through the directions multiple times. Maybe Robert can chime in as I work through it. I want to make sure I take my time to get this installed correctly.

Here's the kit as arrived from ETO Armor:



The included instructions are for replacing the stock system in a built tank but the differences seem pretty minimal.

I started by replacing the long screws on the reinforcing plates with the included short screws. I then trial fitted everything into place:





So far, so good, I believe. One question is, do I install the springs now, or after the track is installed?

Here is the current placement of the idler arm - is this approximately correct?



Next up is to prime the idler arm and wheels and hopefully get this thing permanently installed.
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Old 04-19-2017, 01:32 PM
  #28
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Made some progress today on the idler system install. I permanently installed the bar and wheels, being sure to apply grease in the areas indicated. Next I installed the four longer screws with nuts, two on each side, that are the spring anchors.



Next I cut out both springs to 1.25 and 1.5 inches per the instructions and put a loop on each end.



Installed the primed idler arm:



And lastly, installed the main springs.



I then installed the rear plate sans accessories as I plan on painting these separately and installing once complete.





I did end up with a minor gap on these two side pieces which I hope is OK. They do wobble around slightly if you move them (the instructions did not indicate to glue them to the main rear panel).

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Old 04-20-2017, 03:42 AM
  #29
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Next up is to give the lower hull one last coat of primer to cover the screws, scratches, and rear plate in preparation for the base coat of dunkelgelb. As you can see there is a bit still needing primer:



And all masked up:



I have a can of Tamiya spray dunkelgelb coming in the mail, so the plan is to paint the lower hull as you can see it, and paint the sprocket, idler assembly and road wheels seperately, and then install on the tank.

In the meantime I received a nice order from rctank.de. First is an exhaust kit so I can add a smoker:



Metal accessories pack, which I pretty much bought for the functioning light, but the pieces are great as well:



And an antenna:


Last edited by tpallas; 04-20-2017 at 03:58 AM. Reason: Embedding pictures is now a hot dumpster fire
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:38 AM
  #30
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looks great!....that's a big tank!
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:48 AM
  #31
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Nice, clean work done here.
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Old 04-21-2017, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fury69 View Post
looks great!....that's a big tank!
Thanks! I like the size, a lot to work with and easier to fix mistakes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Panther F View Post
Nice, clean work done here.
Thanks!! So far so good but the painting is where I'll really need help.

I do have the Tamiya TS-3 spray dunkelgelb coming in the mail. I gave the lower hull one last shot in preparation to spray it as soon as it arrives:



While I wait I've cut out and cleaned up the road wheel plastic parts, and primed the metal inner wheels.



Question...my plan of action was to prime the plastic parts with Tamiya grey primer, spray all individual parts dunkelgelb, and then assemble. Or should I assemble the primed parts and spray the completed wheel as one piece? The directions show as:



Thanks!
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:39 PM
  #33
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Interesting
I've just completed my kt build.

As for the wheels, do a test fit without the screws and you can see how much it overlaps and what areas do not require paint.

The metal road wheels do not require paint in the centre on the inside surface as the plastic discs will cover that area. So you will need to paint the perimeter walls of the inside and all exterior surfaces even though it may be hard to see once the wheels are installed.

I must say the manual is a little confusing esp on the on off switch position


Good luck finding a suitable carrying case. I'm having troubles with it
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Old 04-22-2017, 08:29 PM
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I'd assemble the wheels then spay with dunkel. Avoids any issues of paint getting in the assemblies. For a carrying case, keep an eye out for tool boxes on sale the local hardware and grab some foam to put in. Just make sure to take measurements of the KT with you, especially height and length with that barrel.
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:25 AM
  #35
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Thanks guys, that is very helpful advice. Do I spray the camo pattern on the sprocket, road wheels and idler after they have been installed?

In the meantime the Tamiya TS-3 arrived so I've sprayed the lower hull:



Next on to the sprockets and idler assembly, and then the road wheels.

Couple of random questions -

What is the best way to clean/prep the surface prior to painting? I noticed I had some small hairs, fibers, etc.

Also, any thoughts on this airbrush set for the beginner:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXSL6&P=SM

Thanks!

Last edited by tpallas; 04-23-2017 at 07:29 AM.
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Old 04-28-2017, 02:46 PM
  #36
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Getting cracking on the road wheels!

Primed inner metal pieces, 2 per wheel:



Primed (with Tamiya grey primer) inner and outer wheels with caps on:



Been using this glue and the applicator tip is really incredible:



Grease up the axle:



Inserting bearings:



And screw on the rear plate:



Masked off the axles and ready for dunkelgelb:

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Old 04-29-2017, 06:17 AM
  #37
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Thanks for the update, and the inspiration too. I need to get back on my Jagdpanther.

These are nice and clear images too.
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Old 04-30-2017, 03:59 PM
  #38
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Looking good!
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:21 PM
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Nice work. Just a tip, next time your assembling the wheels I'd stay away from wet lubricants. It will attract any debris and then you have sand paper on your axles. I use a dry PTFE powder and some also have success with powder graphite.

Labelle 134 Micro Fine Powdered PTFE Dry Lubricant .30 oz | eBay
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:51 PM
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looking damn good.......
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Old 05-14-2017, 12:54 PM
  #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panther F View Post
Thanks for the update, and the inspiration too. I need to get back on my Jagdpanther.

These are nice and clear images too.
Thanks! I've followed a lot of your threads and am very impressed by your work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Markocaster View Post
Looking good!
Thanks Mark!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBennyB View Post
Nice work. Just a tip, next time your assembling the wheels I'd stay away from wet lubricants. It will attract any debris and then you have sand paper on your axles. I use a dry PTFE powder and some also have success with powder graphite.

Labelle 134 Micro Fine Powdered PTFE Dry Lubricant .30 oz | eBay
That is a great tip - I really appreciate it - I can see how that can be much better.

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looking damn good.......
Thanks fury!!
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Old 05-14-2017, 01:07 PM
  #42
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Well, I've had a fun couple of weeks, and I've been able to make good progress against the KT. There's been progress and setbacks along the way but I've definitely had fun and learned a lot throughout!

First I gave the final drive/sprocket assemblies a coat of dunkelgelb and attached them into place.







Then I figured out, with much help from Robert at ETO Armor, that I had originally installed the hull brace incorrectly and the transmissions were askew. I had neglected to tighten the assembly correctly and the total transmission system skewed towards the right as you can see in this picture:



I was able to correct my mistake very easily by disassembling everything, tightening the bolts, and then reassembling with no problems.

I must say Robert has been incredible along the way. He also noticed in my pictures that I had assembled the road wheels incorrectly. It made me do a double take and re-look the instructions and sure enough, I had mashed the two metal road wheel plates together when in fact they should be offset to give them a gap for the track teeth to fit in.

You can see in this picture of my initial road wheel install that there is no gap between the center plates:



After Robert's catch and re-looking the instructions, I figured out my mistake and re-did (including painting) each roadwheel. Not necessarily what I had hoped for, but certainly necessary and moving the tank forward. I've been very, very impressed with ETO Armor's customer service - as a small business owner myself, I know how hard it can be. Thanks Robert!!

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Old 05-14-2017, 01:16 PM
  #43
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Now with correctly assembled road wheels, I re-installed them:





And then got some tracks on!







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Old 05-14-2017, 04:41 PM
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Sounds like your getting the full experience of a build. Assemble, mistake, learn, correct, done! Enjoying your enthusiasm on this build.
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Old 05-14-2017, 08:40 PM
  #45
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Very nice work so far. ETO has the best customer service you can ask for and his knowledge in this hobby is the same. He helped me through my early days of the hobby and still does to this day.
The King Tiger is one of the most majestic tanks available as a kit, IMO. I loved building mine and soon I will be doing a repaint on it.
If I may give you a piece of friendly advice, get yourself an airbrush. The simple truth is painting a model with a spray can is nothing short of problems because of the amount of paint coming out and the lack of control you have using it. It will cover fine details and look quite bland in the end. Many guys use variants of Iwata while I have 4 different Paasche brushes at the moment. The paasche can be bought for around 100 dollars and comes with three interchangeable tips for different spray patterns. Number 2 is the one I use the most for the tanks. Check out Chicago airbrush supply and search paasche for the talon. Cannot go wrong with it. That and a compressor is money well spent for this hobby and the results cannot be achieved without it. I hope you are enjoying the hobby as much as I do. Keep up the great work.
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Old 05-14-2017, 09:31 PM
  #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpallas View Post
To pile onto Robert's response to your first comment, the hull brace installation is pretty much idiot proof. All you need to do is use the existing 4 holes as a guide to enlarge.
I quote you here, but Im refering to your gearbox brace problem, lol. After seeing that was idiot proof I ordered one gearbox brace and I have it here waiting waiting to be installed. I was going to install it today but then I saw your gearbox alineation problem, that is what was worrying me.

I dont apreciate any problem in your photos, so what was the problem and where was the mistake?? The screws were too loose? Even being so loose the gearbox should not move to right or left due to the screws, right?
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Old 05-15-2017, 03:30 AM
  #47
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TP, take note of your tracks, they are separating on both sides in several places. This is a known issue with those tracks unfortunately. I suggest you get some quality metal offerings from Kenny Kong or Mitosal especially now that you are using the awesome DT tensioner.
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Old 05-15-2017, 04:06 AM
  #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser133 View Post
TP, take note of your tracks, they are separating on both sides in several places. This is a known issue with those tracks unfortunately. I suggest you get some quality metal offerings from Kenny Kong or Mitosal especially now that you are using the awesome DT tensioner.
Well spoted! The stock tracks and track tensioner are pure rubbish.

When I save money I will buy a pair of metal tracks. I asked many times but until someone post a photo I will ask again and again: Are torro tracks compatible? They cost half the mitosal and kenny's price and some people says are compatible and some doesnt.

​​​also I think he needs to shorten the DT track tensioner springs when using metal tracks.
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Old 05-15-2017, 01:24 PM
  #49
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Quote:
Are torro tracks compatible?
I am fairly certain that the gentleman who built the E-100 from Los Angeles used Torro tracks on Tamiya sprockets with Mr. Design Gearboxes. Quite the mash up, but it is is soundly engineered and runs well. So...yes, I believe they fit.

On the DT tensioner with metal tracks, I had to add extra springs to the assembly, as I just couldn't seem to remove enough spring to prevent the tracks from bunching up under the drive sprockets. I think I added two more to each side. Works fine.
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Old 05-16-2017, 04:48 AM
  #50
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It depends with regard to the Torro question. I have attacked it in two ways, by modifying the sprocket teeth or the gearbox shaft. If you use the Tamiya sprockets, the teeth are spaced differently than the typical HL, Torro, Matorro options and the tracks are all subtly different from all the makers and I have yet to find two that are exactly alike. If you use the Torro sprockets with the Tamiya gearbox, then you have to modify the sprocket or the shaft to fit. Then you could run into spacing issues as well as the offset is slightly different. Yes you will save money at the outset, but is your time worth more to you in the long run? I have used ALL brands and I still come back to the Kongs and Mitrosal offerings as they are quality and fit the first time out. I got tired of cutting and polishing sprocket teeth and gearbox shafts...lol
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